Eli
Super Nomad
Posts: 1471
Registered: 8-26-2003
Location: L.B. Baja Sur
Member Is Offline
Mood: Some times Observing, sometimes Oblivious.
|
|
Up into the Mixes
Yesterday, I went up in to the hills of the Mixes, the other side of Ayutla. It was truly profoundly cold up in them there hills. Yep, I finally
figured out who is buying all those stocking caps and mittens they sell here in Oaxaca.
Anyway, I had volunteered to go to the village of Sto. Domingo Tepuxtepec Mixe. Would you believe it is the very same village that I use to see the
painting of above my head at one of my favorite internets, funny one of the reasons that I liked that internet so much, ( they are now long out of
business, ni modo) is because I loved to look at that painting and dream about visiting the village. Anyway, the painting is still in the plaza where
I live and available for my enjoyment when ever I pass by on my way in and out to the streets of the city.
So wouldn't you know as luck would have it, I have since struck up a friendship with the artist who created the piece, Felix Martinez Buatista is his
name. Earlier in the week, he came into the plaza where I live and am taking a course in ceramics. So as I work, I tune into Felix's conversation
with my teacher Armando, and how could Felix get pictures taken of his paintings to send to a prespective client up in the U.S.? Well, you know me, I
jumped right in with, hey I have a digital camera, I will go back in the hills to your studio and take the shots, down load to the computer and e-mail
them to you client, it would be just oh so easy and besides I love to improvise a "tour", you know.
So, we agreed on yesterday, and he was going to waste 5 hours and the "bus" fare to come get me and lead me in, but I said for sure I can do this on
my own and of course, I did and it was all just fine and dandy. Kind of like running around on the logging roads up in Oregon, except everyone is
speaking a Mixe dilact and I have no idea what they are saying except I hope it is kind in regard to me, anyway, sure is a pretty language wither it
be positive or negative their feelings.
Again, amazed when I step into "their world" how cheap it can be to get around, I took a collectivo from Oaxaca to Ayutla for only $35 pesos for the
almost 3 hour ride, Where in as for sure I was jamb packed in the back seat of a small economy car with someone on either side of me, not an inch to
spare. The Sweetest prettiest charmingest little lady set on my right side, she was a dead ringer for a really short Whooppe Goldberg; with one of
those easy smiles that takes over the whole face when she let it go on ya, which she did very easily, I might add. The guy who set on my left side was
simply a quite somber sort, but not at all unkind. At one point going around the curves I could no longer withstand my Mother's insincts and reached
over and pushed down the latches on doors of either side of my companeros, I just couldn't help myself you know.
So in Ayutla, I unfolded myself out of the taxi, and off to find a W.C., and than a cup of coffee con leche to warm my hands around with a pan to
dunk, I am totaly hooked into the tradition of doing so now.
Than it is off to find a camioneta to take me to Tepuxtepec. Well, as I walked along the road and asked, I just kept getting sent futher back the way
I came, until I came to a fork in the road with a dirt road leading up a hill with no signs saying where is was going, but everyone I asked assured
me, this was the road that would take me where I was going.
Spanish for sure is their 2nd. language and it has been a long time since I had trouble disphering what folks were trying to tell me, but this time
for sure I was struggling. Expesially with this tiny little old round toothless lady that montioned me along to follow her up the hill, I couldn't
imagine why I should follow her, as I had been assured by several folk that at the bottom of the hill was where I was to wait for a ride. Still, she
was insistant, so I followed her until we stopped where some vans were parked and the only thing I knew for sure was going on was she was arguing
cost down with the driver. In fin, of course she won out and again montioned for me to join her in her ride up the hill. Ah but, I really was unsure
at this point and asked the driver if he was going all the way to the village I wanted and he said no, and it was unlikly that I would find anyone who
was; ah but, for a special price of course he would take me on a private tour, to which I declined. I was determind to get there for the $10 peso
quote that Felix had assured me would be the cost.
Must say, the people I ran into were so much more unique to themself looking folks than I have seen in a while, the kind you really want to whip the
cammera out and take pictures of, but you know they would be appalled and offended, so you don't even dare ask, best you can do is take it all in and
hope it will come out in your words, I expect.
Anyway, as I stood there wondering at the wisdom of my cheapness, and faith in my lucky star to get me where I was going, along came about the forth
nissian king cab truck that I flagged down, and this one finally said yep he was going where I was, and so I hopped in the front seat. The back seat
held 3 men and the back of the truck was full of guys and I reflected on my Mother's prediction almost twenty years ago that where I was headed in
coming South that I would for sure be hauled off into the hills, raped and robbed by some Pacho Villa looking guys and never to be heard of again, and
I decided naw, not going to happen, but dang, I do wonder what they are talking about, and I bet anyway you look at it, I am as odd a find as they
ever imagined running into.
So, off we going bouncing down this lovely dirt road that snakes thru the clouds, passing foot paths and a village along the way where there is a Mole
Festival going with the band playing and I spot the van, that I had declined to ride in with, so now I knew how far they were going. And as we climbed
and and climbed, there were families walking along here and there just when you thought for sure you were in the middle of no where, there would be
another little log cabin or another foot path or an old guy with a burrow load of wood walking down the road.
Finally, about 45 minutes drive, we arrive at the village that I saw so long ago in painting at the internet cafe and again I wonder at the bargin of
such an adventure as this ride for 10 pesos, but that was all it cost me, really.
So, I wander over to the church as Felix had instructed and out from a side street he comes to greet me. He repeated over and over his amassment that
I was there, he couldn't believe I had actually come. You see, months before I had coped on a promise to come to the openning of a showing of his
work, but I explained, I am not really a c-cktail party kinda gal, but get me on a dirt road to no where is not such a far fetched sort way for me to
pass the day.
In fin, another bowl of weak sweet coffee and a roll to dunk and I am warmed up again, and off to his studio and home to meet the family, take the
pictures, and I am ready for lunch and to head back to the city. The family was of course sweet and humble, ambicale and kind, first class sort of
folks as one would expect to meet back in the hills. As I leave the house, Felix presents me with a payment I never antispated receiving, a mt. x mt.
blank canvas, he reminds me as many have, it is time for me to begin my work on large canavas, enough pen sketches already, it is time for me to take
brush in hand and seriously paint my silly heart out.
On the way back to the church and the center of the village to look for another camioneta to take me back to Ayutla, we are stopped by a small group
of men who are lead by Felix's cousin, and who is who is the town delegado. After a fair amount of Mixe dilect between them, I am informed by Felix
that we are trapped into a visit to city hall for a swig of mescal and conversation and an offical welcoming and why don't I spend the night by the
town fathers. But, after an hours conversation as to what the delegado does and what I do, I beg off with I didn't come prepared and have folks back
in Oaxaca that of course would be concerned, (that my Mother's predictions had finally come true), if I did not return with light of day at my back.
But for sure, during the festivals in August I will return prepared to stay and celebrate with them.
So, as I am riding down the hill reflecting in awe of my good fortune to have fullfilled this little adventure of a tour and all for less than $75
pesos, can you even imagine that! Besides, how I have been wanting to attack a large canvas in forever it seems, and here I have one, but dang, now
I will need to obtain an easel, o.k., well one way or another I will raise the funds to do so.
I arrive back home to the plaza with day light to spare and I do a quick check in with Armando and Zots to tell them I made it back safe and sound
just as we had all predicted, and to show them my new hope and dream of a canvas, and there they are all proud and smiling ready to present me with my
new easal that Aramando had been building me while I was riding around wondering where I was going come up with just that.
Life's little magic is certainly there for us every single day, just the sun rising again is enough proof of that, ah but some days, it really, really
is profound what our good fortune puts togeather to amaze and awe us with. Yes sir, I am amazed!
|
|
|
Oso
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 2637
Registered: 8-29-2003
Location: on da border
Member Is Offline
Mood: wait and see
|
|
Eli,
I definitely envy your stay in Oaxaca. Baja is Baja and we all love it. But Oaxaca is the absolute most diverse state in Mexico in terms of
different tribes/languages/cultures as well as scenery. Have you ever seen "Tlaloc" with Pedro Infante and Maria Felix? Have you been to the
Guelaguetza (Fiesta del Sol) at Cerro del Fortin just outside Oaxaca City? Monte Alban? The beach at La Ventosa near Tehuantepec? Huautla de Jimenez
in the Sierra Mazatleca? (a whole other "60's" story) One could spend a lifetime in Oaxaca and never see or experience it all. Thanks for sharing
and keep writing, please.
|
|
|
jeans
Super Nomad
Posts: 1059
Registered: 9-16-2002
Member Is Offline
Mood: Encantada
|
|
Eli,
I have been reading of your adventures in a part of Mexico that most never see. I
have not commented much because, to be honest....words fail me.
I am in total, speechless awe of your humble perspective of a student of art (and life).
You "paint" with your words as vividly as you create the art I have seen in your home (especially that tile in your shower  )
Safe travels, mi amiga.
[Edited on 1-16-2005 by jeans]
Mom always told me to be different - Now she says...Not THAT different
|
|
|
Sallysouth
Super Nomad
Posts: 1835
Registered: 10-9-2003
Location: Capo Beach
Member Is Offline
Mood: missing Baja...
|
|
Once again
You have transported me to another time and place, so magically.What a uniqie adventure you are experiencing in this time of your life! Thank you for
giving me something to dream about tonite.Keep writing, por favor...Sally
|
|
|
Mike Humfreville
Super Nomad
Posts: 1148
Registered: 8-26-2003
Member Is Offline
|
|
Well, I had to put down my Baja California Almanac and fetch my maps of Mexico to see where you were going. It's not all that far geographically from
Cuernavaca, where I am in familiar territory, but it's a long ways in terms of lifestyle.
With respect to your gift, maybe you'll find something in your heart from your trip to fill it.
Thanks for another great and warm story.
|
|
|
bajalera
Super Nomad
Posts: 1875
Registered: 10-15-2003
Location: Santa Maria CA
Member Is Offline
|
|
Great adventure, Eli!
Lera
\"Very few things happen at the right time, and the rest never happen at all. The conscientious historian will correct these defects.\" -
Mark Twain
|
|
|
Eli
Super Nomad
Posts: 1471
Registered: 8-26-2003
Location: L.B. Baja Sur
Member Is Offline
Mood: Some times Observing, sometimes Oblivious.
|
|
Thank You for my good fortune
Well Jeans, looks like it has been my turn to be struck speechless, I read your comments yesterday and earier today and I just had to walk a way in
wonder as to what to say, I guess Thank You all for your kind words and well wishes is in order, surly everyone of you, what you say does up lift me
and undoubtly bring me good luck. Still and all, I really see this as simple pleasures for a simple soul, not all that big a deal at all.
Checked my math, and I fear it is not much better than my spelling; the true cost of the adventure breaks down:
Collectivo to and from Mixes $70 pesos.
1 weak coffee with dipping pan $7 pesos.
4 trips to the w.c., $8 pesos.
1 camioneta up the hill, (the Delegado paid my trip back down) $10 pesos-
City bus to get me home once I was back in the city $3 pesos.
Total cost for the tour $98 pesos, still a bargin even by my standards.
Nope Oso, I have not seen "Tlaloc", but I bet Dona Lupe has, she is such a fan of Pedro Infante & Mari Felix, who knows maybe someday, I will get to
sit in the Changada with her and watch it, wouldn't that be fun.
Embarrsed to admit that as of today, still it is a nope haven't made to the Guelaguetza or even Monte Alban, can you believe it, geezzzzzz! Ah but
like you said, even in a full life time one can't do it all in Oax., I am still trying to get the the museum at Santa Domingo, 2 blocks from where I
live for cryin-out-loud.
I had planned to do the Guelaguezta in July when I first got here, but that was when I fell flat on my face due to wandering around with my head in
the clouds and tripping over my jaw dropping from the amazment of it all and wound up laid up for about 10 days or so. Who knows, maybe next July, for
sure I plan to be here during that time. No reason to be in Baja in the heat of summer that I can think of.
Neither have I been to Huautla de Jimenez, but I plan to go to Villa Alta on Friday with Zot for the festivals over the weekend there, it is kind of
on the way there. Still. I lived a few months one summer up in San Jose del Pasifico during the mid 70's, for sure it was a "60's experinses" similar
to what was happening in Huautla. Thought many times about going back there for some of the same this year, but alas I fear it is truly another era in
time and my life, ya know ya can't ever really and truly go back.
Ay and the coast, it must be so idea there right now, while I am freezing my buns off in the hills and even the city is cold today. Alas, I keep
telling myself I must make it over to Rio Grande (North of Puerta Escondido) before I go home and give a big howdy, hug and some pictures to a dear
friend's family for him.
You see, Carmelo has been with me since the first day I began VOS, he was a peon and I was "the idiot who thought what is the big deal to build fine
custom homes in Baja for gringos, any fool can do it", ah but that is a tale for another day. Anyway, I survived and now he one of the finest artist
masons you could ever imagine, still with VOS, and a true to the bone dear friend. I owe him at least that trip over to "saludar la famila", but it
seems oh so far away today. See how I pull that one off, and a dozen other dreams and metas to full fill before I head home to Baja much sooner than I
think, I can't believe how the days fly by, ya know..
Mike, thanks for the good word yet again, the back ground of the painting is cold blues, purples and green, looks kind of like a cold winter sky at
sunrise right now. I have no idea what it be, soon enough the canvas and colors will tell me who they are. For sure, I will let you know when it is
done.
Figureitivly, I fell into this painting running diving for joy somewhat like that first time I returned to the Sea of Cortez in "89" on my way home
after so many years up North, hit Coyote bay, jumped out of the car and flop into the clear blue warm water, didn't even bother to change into my
bathing suit, I was so full of glee to see the sea again that day. Than afterwards, I set on the beach and just contemplated what I saw and felt.
Well, starting the painting was the same feeling of glee and now contemplation, the easle sits facing my bed so it is the first thing I look at
getting up and the last before I close my eyes at night. Yes, we shall see who-what she want's to be, the muse will tell me, all in good time.
Sally, Leara, thank you so much for your encouragement, looks like I figured out something to say finally....... And in fin, those who read and send
me good thought, thank you, thank you so very much, I know I receive them and they fill my heart even if I don't know who all this good luck is coming
from, if you are smiling as you read this, then surly it comes from You!
Hasta, muy pronto, espero.......Sara
|
|
|
|
![[*]](images/xmbforum/default_icon.gif){kind=icon}
