I'm considering among the top brands for a Fridge/Freezer unit: Smittybilt, WAECO, and ARB. After using a Coleman Extreme ice chest for 10 yrs, it's
time for an upgrade. Here's what I am looking at:
My friend 'CG' on this forum swears by the Dometic, and it has Australian tests to prove it's durability in a region similar to Baja's. Problem: NONE
of it's accessories are imported into the USA due to licensing issues with Dometic and WAECO.
ARB is the industry standard-bearer. Used both in the outback of Austrailia, HWY 1 from North America to South America, and even in hospitals
worldwide! Accessories are widely available...at a price. Problem: Prices for ARB are equal to their reputation.
Smittybilt is the new kid on the block in terms of Fridge/Freezers. Their unit is only 30 lbs, making it the lightest-weight option for my Jeep. It
is priced the lowest, and comes bundled with a proprietary dust jacket. Problem: No proprietary tie-downs or slide-out rack like the ARB. Also,
there are literally no user reviews on-line to reference. Here are a few videos I pulled from the 'web. Opinions?
Ken, check the recent thread history. Was a similar thread a week or two ago.
I have my purchase planned to one of these three brands. The ARB has longer-term user reviews of the three. I saw one up close at the 4 Wheel Parts
Truck Fest along with the Smittybilt. The ARB had heavier construction, and its representative had lots of good stuff to tell me about his unit.
Smittybilt didn't have anyone on-hand to talk about the benefits of it's Fridge Freezer.
Too much soda pop Ken! Beer and water is the way to go...
I will be interested in what you discover... I have toyed with the idea of a unit that can run off the car when driving and then propane when camping
(or solar during the day?).
4baja (Steve, Camp Gecko) had a Fridge/Freeze or some related-brand that ran on 110v to pre-cool at home, 12v DC while driving, and propane when in
camp. Said it would run for days on a small propane bottle like we use for the stove.
Ken-
Engel MR040. I have had it about 5 years. I leave it plugged in at home most of the time. When camping, it doesn't kill car battery over night. I have
a couple of friends that have had them longer than I. One of them got submerged in a river overnight (long story). Dried out and is still working like
new. Not cheap $850. It will deep freeze and make ice for your coolers if you desire. I have heard good reports on the ARB too.
I like Units with the BD-35f compressor.
I had an Upright Norcold that has the Sawafuji compressor and it was too loud, and could vibrate my whole Van, and lasted 5 years before failure.
My Friend has an ARB 50 quart model Very well built, Danfoss compressor, 45 watts to 60 watts when the compressor was actively running. Used 14 to
20AH in 24 hours in 75 f Average Ambient temps
Here is a Less expensive model, that uses the DnFoss/Secop BD35f compressor.
No personal experience with it, No idea of the build quality.
Thanks for the heads up on the Smittybuilt. I was not aware of their existence.
Make sure to not obstruct the cooling unit vents on the sides, and if you park with the windows closed, employ window shades as these will have to run
nearly continuously at 120F and will consume much more battery power.
propane Fridges are Absorption fridges. they need to be kept level when parked. They use a lot of propane in hot temps, and might not be able to
maintain sub40F internal temps. they also take a long time to cool down and a long time to cool down items placed within.
12v compressor fridges cool down very quickly and the items within too. They have no issues maintaining sub40f temperatures.
Expect to require at least 60 watts of Solar in good sunny Baja to run one indefinitely when camped, to run just the fridge. Coastal fog becomes your
nemesis if stationary/ no alternator contribution
You can get away with less Solar if you open the lid less and move the solar panel 4 times a day to face into the sun. but if you are running a warm
12 pack through it each day consider 100 to 120 watts.
Do not bother turning it off overnight, unless you are really afraid of being able to start the engine on a single battery system.
It is more efficient to allow it to maintain sub 40F overnight, than it is to make it make it cool from 48F internal to sub40F internal when turned
back on.
The Ciggy plugs and receptacles are the biggest issues with these fridges. Voltage drop and intermittent connections will cause improper operation.
The shorter the copper circuit and the thicker the copper is to the battery, the better the fridge will run.
With Danfoss/Secop compressors, when there is too much voltage drop, and not enough voltage reaching the compressor controller, the condenser fan will
turn on and make you think it is running properly, but the compressor will not turn on.
Look into Anderson Powerpoles for a much better connector. Run 10awg right to battery terminals with 15 amp fuse as close to battery (+) as possible.
Bypass the stock vehicle ciggy/12v receptacle, or rewire it with a quality plug if you really really want to keep the ciggy plug.
Ciggy plugs and receptacles insult electricity. They are a Ubiquitous farce. Avoid whenever possible.
Wasn't this discussed in great detail just recently? Lotsa good info in that thread...
My apologies for not running a search before posting this thread. Also, I have a specific group of fridge/freezers in mind for a Jeep application to
better store fruit/veggies/beans/soy milk while away from home. I can't drink sodas, so a standard ice chest doesn't meet my needs. A Fridge/Freezer
tested in the Australian outback is what I need for trips to Baja.
Also, it will need to be mounted on the steel rack above my air tank - in an increasingly crowded Jeep.
I can't say enough good things about my Engel, it's been running on either AC or DC for 24 hours a day for almost 7 years. When it's not sitting in
the back of my truck it is in the house being used as a freezer. Currently, I have it in the back of the truck filled to capacity with frozen king
salmon and black cod that I brought from Alaska and am taking home to Baja Sur, even in the extreme Baja heat it maintains everything right at zero
degrees and there is no problem with battery drain overnight even at the coldest setting which makes it run constantly. These things are bullet proof
(all steel construction) and their customer service is stellar, when I received mine there was a dent in the cover for the compressor and they
immediately mailed me a new cover. Can't go wrong with one of these things.
I like Units with the BD-35f compressor.
I had an Upright Norcold that has the Sawafuji compressor and it was too loud, and could vibrate my whole Van, and lasted 5 years before failure.
My Friend has an ARB 50 quart model Very well built, Danfoss compressor, 45 watts to 60 watts when the compressor was actively running. Used 14 to
20AH in 24 hours in 75 f Average Ambient temps
Here is a Less expensive model, that uses the DnFoss/Secop BD35f compressor.
No personal experience with it, No idea of the build quality.
Thanks for the heads up on the Smittybuilt. I was not aware of their existence.
Make sure to not obstruct the cooling unit vents on the sides, and if you park with the windows closed, employ window shades as these will have to run
nearly continuously at 120F and will consume much more battery power.
propane Fridges are Absorption fridges. they need to be kept level when parked. They use a lot of propane in hot temps, and might not be able to
maintain sub40F internal temps. they also take a long time to cool down and a long time to cool down items placed within.
12v compressor fridges cool down very quickly and the items within too. They have no issues maintaining sub40f temperatures.
Expect to require at least 60 watts of Solar in good sunny Baja to run one indefinitely when camped, to run just the fridge. Coastal fog becomes your
nemesis if stationary/ no alternator contribution
You can get away with less Solar if you open the lid less and move the solar panel 4 times a day to face into the sun. but if you are running a warm
12 pack through it each day consider 100 to 120 watts.
Do not bother turning it off overnight, unless you are really afraid of being able to start the engine on a single battery system.
It is more efficient to allow it to maintain sub 40F overnight, than it is to make it make it cool from 48F internal to sub40F internal when turned
back on.
The Ciggy plugs and receptacles are the biggest issues with these fridges. Voltage drop and intermittent connections will cause improper operation.
The shorter the copper circuit and the thicker the copper is to the battery, the better the fridge will run.
With Danfoss/Secop compressors, when there is too much voltage drop, and not enough voltage reaching the compressor controller, the condenser fan will
turn on and make you think it is running properly, but the compressor will not turn on.
Look into Anderson Powerpoles for a much better connector. Run 10awg right to battery terminals with 15 amp fuse as close to battery (+) as possible.
Bypass the stock vehicle ciggy/12v receptacle, or rewire it with a quality plug if you really really want to keep the ciggy plug.
Ciggy plugs and receptacles insult electricity. They are a Ubiquitous farce. Avoid whenever possible.
I have been using the Engel plugged into the cigarette lighter of my truck for 7 years and have never had
one problem. The cables and plugs that come with the unit are super beefy, and also have a small light on the plug which makes it easy to visually
check that it is getting power.
You will get much better results with a "hard wired" system...I use 17 strand tinned "Anchor" wire and fused at the batt......Its a pure power thing
!!
I don't believe it was tested in the Australian outback, so it doesn't qualify.
I'm looking at the Australian tests as a baseline for what can be quantified for use in Baja. Dust, vibrations, salt air exposure. That Engel sounds
like a good one for my needs. How much does it weigh, Monoloco??
I also use an Engel. I "test drove" a buddy's 40 long ago, and found it was too big for my little 4Runner. So I bought the 30. I have not looked back.
Just keep in mind it does use battery in camp, and a solar setup is a grand idea. I made a little 20W setup that works 90% of the time. I have a 40W
just in case.
I would consider an ARB too.
"The association of flowers and warm-blooded love is more than a romantic convention; it is based upon one of the great advances in the evolution
of life." Ed Abbey
Rereading comments. I have killed my battery over night, and I know several others that have too. And that was not on freeze, but set in the mid 40s.
I've seldom been able to freeze anything in mine. At least not in Baja heat.
I always cool it down on 110v in the garage before loading. Items are always pre-cooled in the house fridge before loading. Mine does not cool down
that fast.
If you decide to get a thermometer like ARB or Engel sells, stop thinking and don't. There are less expensive ways. I had a fancy wireless unit from
Engel, and the wireless unit only survived one trip. I now use a cheep aquarium thermometer. I bought one at Amazon for $7, put a couple of magnets on
the back, and it sits in camp on the side of the truck where I can keep track of things.
Over all ... not having to worry about ice is priceless. You can get out into the boonies and just not worry about it.
"The association of flowers and warm-blooded love is more than a romantic convention; it is based upon one of the great advances in the evolution
of life." Ed Abbey
I have had my ARB for 10 or 11 years, never a problem. Back then the Engel and ARB were the same units. Made by Engel, I believe, and rebadged for
ARB.
This is a pretty big investment. I would not try to save $100 on a unit you can't find any information on. You will have it a long time.
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The stone mountains pile up to the sky and there is little fresh water. But we know we must go back
if we live, and we don't know why." - Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
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