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WideAngleWandering
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Winter 2016 - 3 weeks to La Ventana and Back
Howdy folks,
This trip report covers my 2016 trip. It's becoming an annual tradition to come down around this time. This year we crossed on 2/27 and stayed about
three weeks. I drove my '84 diesel high-top 60-series Landcruiser, and my friends joined for most of it in a stock 2011 Cherokee.
I had three goals for this trip: to see whales and whale-friends in Ojo de Liebre, to relax in a hot spring with a view of the bioluminescence on the
Sea of Cortez, and to get some body work done on my truck.
I'll keep posting to this thread with details as I uncover them. If you want to skip ahead, you can see the entire photo album on Flickr.
Ensenada:
We left later in the morning than intended. Our goal was to arrive in Ensenada in time for fish tacos by the marina - a hard deadline of 8pm.
Just before walking out the door, I called the Hotel Santo Tomas to see if they had any availability. Still full. I tried the attached Motel Caribe
- a grungier but still acceptable alternative. I like the parking lot they share, and the breakfast in Cazuelitas. They told me they had rooms, and
then said something about 3PM. I told them I would be arriving late, after 8pm. They said something I didn't understand. I said something they
didn't understand. I hung up, wondering if something was amiss.
We had an easy time at the TJ border crossing - we parked near the bus parking at the far right just before exiting for the highway to get our FMMs.
Easy as can be. However, by the time we left the building it was after 8pm. The fish taco fallback plan was now in effect - tacos from Tequila's,
usually good until ~11 or so.
We arrived in Ensenada late. The entertainment district was a madhouse. The Motel Caribe was, of course, full and did not have my reservation. We
walked down the street to the Hotel Bahia, which also had guarded parking, and got a room there. The lot had a lot of cool vehicles, like the 3
Burros 4x4 van.
3 Burros 4x4 Van by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
Once I reunited with my friends, we headed directly to Tequila's only to find out they were done serving food. We had conciliatory beers and tequila
and more beers and made plans to meet Louie later at Galleria. The taco search continued, next bringing us to a sausage stand. These were, I chit
you not, the greatest sausages in the world. I might have even said that while sober.
The best salchichas in Ensenada. by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
I think we did eventually find street tacos, and then buckets of beer at Galleria, which was hosting some hard rock band. We never did see Louie
though.
The next morning, after coffee, menudo, and manta ray machaca at Cazuelitas (this is my preferred Ensenada hangover cure), we headed out, stopping at
Soriana to buy supplies. I warned everyone that this is the last big supermercado we're going to see for a while. We decided to buy extra dried
peppers. Just in case.
Then, finally, the open road. At last it felt like we were on a Baja trip. Just past Ojos Negros, I saw the sign for the Cava del Queso. I'd never
been there before. I signaled the Cherokee to stop and asked everyone, "do you want to see a cheese .... uh, cave?" We voted yes, and wandered up
into Ojos Negros to find the road to the ranch.
It was pretty well marked, and we arrived to find a small farm, with a nicely landscaped garden, and a lot of cows. Within minutes I had a Michelada
in hand, and was talked into taking a cheese tour. I won't bore you with the details, but I will say it's worth it. The cheese is damn tasty, the
wine is endrunkifying, and it's kind of fun to let a baby cow suck on your hand.
[Edited on 2016-4-21 by WideAngleWandering]
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shari
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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Ok....I'm hooked....
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AKgringo
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It looks like you were able to avoid any 'No fun' zone's!
Looking forward to some details about the photos in your flikr album. It looks like you spent some time at Laguna Hanson.
Thanks for sharing!
If you are not living on the edge, you are taking up too much space!
"Could do better if he tried!" Report card comments from most of my grade school teachers. Sadly, still true!
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WideAngleWandering
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San Felipe
Recounting this trip is an excruciatingly painful activity right now as I've just returned to work. I spend most of my time making spreadsheets and
powerpoint slides when I'd rather be designing improvements to the baja travel rig.
San Felipe
We spent way too much time lounging around the Cava de Queso, enjoying cheese, wine and micheladas, so it was dark as we approached MX-5. The
original plan had been to avoid some highway and drive across Laguna Diablo, but we aborted and stuck to pavement. Sadly I drove past the turn-off
and on to the military checkpoint at the junction with MX-5. This second checkpoint was just as easy as Ojos Negros, and we drove on through with
barely a delay.
We pulled into town and headed straight for El Capitan, just off the malecon, for a couple 575 peso rooms. The San Felipe 250 had just ended, so it
wasn't hard to find a room, locate a case of beer around the corner, then drink the beer, and head out to the malecon.
A lot of people give San Felipe a bad rap, but I've always had a good time on the malecon (  ), especially on
Saturdays/Sundays/holidays. I love it all - the good and the bad. The terrible-yet-enthusiastic musicians, the decrepit boats and failed
developments, Danny Clamato's street micheladas, all the tacos, cheap tequila, jewelry sellers, street dogs, car stereos, ta ta coffee mugs, elotes
...
If you haven't been to the San Felipe malecon on a good night, you're really missing out.
Sadly it was just a short overnight for us, as the next morning we loaded up our rigs and headed south to spend a night in Gonzaga Bay. Before
leaving I stopped to see Carlos at the body shop and made an appointment to come back in a couple weeks and have some body work done on the truck.
Then we stopped for fuel. The shops outside the Pemex - ahh, San Felipe, keepin' it classy!
Lolita & Ricky Phatass by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
On the way south along the sadly paved road, we skipped Cow Patty's but did make a point of stopping to check out Shell Island. I'd never been out
there and wanted to know where to find it for future camping trips. Fortunately the tide was low and it was easy to get up to the sand overlooking
the beach.
The Entrance to Shell Island by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
I'm looking forward to coming back - for the micheladas, the truck repairs, and someday, some secluded camping along Shell Island.
[Edited on 2016-4-21 by WideAngleWandering]
[Edited on 2016-4-21 by WideAngleWandering]
Traveling the Americas via my old land cruiser
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WideAngleWandering
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Quote: Originally posted by AKgringo  |
Looking forward to some details about the photos in your flikr album. It looks like you spent some time at Laguna Hanson. |
Yes - and it had water. That was new for me.
I carried five cameras on this trip. Canon F1 & A1 35mm film cameras, a Sony NEX-5 mirrorless digital, a Contour video camera, and a Lumia 830
camera phone.
I've finished processing, scanning, and editing all the 35mm color and digital images. I have not yet processed & scanned the black & white
or edited the video. Given how busy I am making powerpoint slides for the man, it will be some time before i get around to it. So I decided to post
the trip report without them.
Traveling the Americas via my old land cruiser
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BigBearRider
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Odd graffiti at Shell Island...
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WideAngleWandering
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Not just at Shell Island. Gonzaga Bay also. Not cool.
Traveling the Americas via my old land cruiser
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WideAngleWandering
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Gonzaga Bay
Gonzaga Bay
I have kind of a love-hate relationship with this place. I love that it's beautiful. I hate how it seems to be getting harder and harder to find
beach access. I also find it odd how Alfonsina's can charge $80 for a basic room now that the highway is paved. But if you're with people who don't
want to camp, it's not a bad way to spend the night.
Anyhow, we arrived, gawked at the sunset, drank more beer, enjoyed some pretty decent pescado al mojo de ajo, talked with some other travelers,
watched the stars, and got a great night's sleep.
The next day we were still on a mission heading south, but that morning we had to ask ourselves, do we really want to leave?
 Morning on Gonzaga Bay by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
We could camp from Papa Fernandez or even boondock or maybe rent a palapa from Beluga (or is it Sacrificio?) and see if the sky & the sea put on a show for us.
We let the dogs play in the sea and explored the tidal channel while we pondered.
Dog in Gonzaga Bay by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
Happy Lab by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
I see a bird! by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
Shakin' Dry by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
But in the end we decided to keep going, further south. To the whales!
On the way out, I saw a guy working on his helicopter. Great, now another hobby to add to my list.
Flying Machine by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
[Edited on 2016-4-21 by WideAngleWandering]
[Edited on 2016-4-21 by WideAngleWandering]
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WideAngleWandering
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Coco
It's now day 4 and I've spent the last 3 nights in hotels. It's time to do some camping. Tonight we should arrive at Ojo de Liebre. If we're lucky,
we'll pass by Guerrero Negro in time to get the best fish tacos in all of Baja, at Tacos El Muelle.
But first, we stop to see Coco.
Coco's Corner
Coco's Cans by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
At this point I know the routine. Arrive amidst a gaggle of motorcycle riders, semi drivers, off-road racers, and travelers. Accept the offer of a
can of Pacifico. Look around and see what's changed in the junk collection from last year. Donate some underpants. Let Coco make lewd tongue
gestures at any women in your party. Have another beer. Sign the guestbook. Hit the road.
There may or may not be a photo out there somewhere of me standing on a wooden table, nail in one hand, hammer in the other, dainty red panties
dangling from my teeth, as I hunt for a place to to hang them.
Coco's Junk by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
Coco's Toilets by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
Coco's Ladies Room by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
Coco's Big Red Panties. by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
[Edited on 2016-4-21 by WideAngleWandering]
[Edited on 2016-4-21 by WideAngleWandering]
[Edited on 2016-4-21 by WideAngleWandering]
Traveling the Americas via my old land cruiser
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WideAngleWandering
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Ojo de Liebre
We rolled into Guerrero Negro after a speedy drive over the unpaved portion of MX-5 from Coco's to Laguna Chapala. My truck, with 33" BFG mud
terrains, hauls ass over these roads. Eventually the Cherokee caught up.
In Guerrero Negro we expectantly drove down the main drag looking for Tacos el Muelle. It was nearly 5PM and he was already done for the day.
Another taco fail. We had backup tacos at Tacos Poblano just east of the Pemex, which is never a bad option.
Ojo de Liebre
Sunset Over Outhouses by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
I've been enthralled by this place since Shari first told me about it a few years ago. Since then it's been an annual trip for me.
We rolled into camp just as the sun was setting. Shari recognized my beastly old truck and stepped out of her camper for hugs and howdys. And just
like that, I was back home with the tribe.
The next few days were brilliant. We spent hours exploring the beaches and tide pools with the dogs.
Dogs on the Beach by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
We spent more hours in camp chairs at each others' sites - Shari, Beth, Dave & Nancy, Ken. Every year it's the same faces and I really dig that.
We ate grilled octopus and shared bottles of tequila. We had a great dance party with Juan and the Asuncion band.
And of course, the whales.
It's flipping amazing to watch these ocean dinosaurs rise up from the sea and feel their seawater & whale snot rain down on you when they spout.
Whale Says Hi. by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
Mother and calf spouting by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
Whale Shower by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
Mother and Calf by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
Comin' Right For Us by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
Gray Whale Calf by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
[Edited on 2016-4-21 by WideAngleWandering]
[Edited on 2016-4-21 by WideAngleWandering]
[Edited on 2016-4-21 by WideAngleWandering]
Traveling the Americas via my old land cruiser
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WideAngleWandering
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What's that you say? You love this thread but just wish it had more whale pictures? Well, you're in luck then. These were all shot with a 1970s-era
Canon F1 and some manual telephoto lenses.
Gray Whale Diving by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
Gray Whale Tail Splashing by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
Gray Whale Tail by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
Spy Hop by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
Grey whales are like ocean dinosaurs by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
Spy Hop by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
Grey whale spouting by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
Traveling the Americas via my old land cruiser
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Tomas Tierra
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Good cheet maing!
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WideAngleWandering
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Bahia Asuncion to La Bocana
I'm at my desk but my mind is still in Baja.
After several glorious days soaking up the sun and wind and whales and Tecate in Ojo de Liebre, we set off again, this time along the coast through
Asuncion, La Bocana, Abreojos, and on to the gulf side.
Bahia Asuncion
First stop, Bahia Asuncion for Ramon's tacos, aka the best shrimp tacos in Baja. Belly's full, we decided that maybe we'd like to stay a little
while. We rented rooms from La Bufadora Inn, and kicked back to enjoy the views.
Bahia Asuncion Coast by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
This little Lumia camera phone does a fine job in challenging light.
La Bufadora by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
But I still have more fun with film.
La Bufadora at Sunset #1 by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
La Bufadora at Sunset #2 by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
And the swells kept getting bigger ...
La Bufadora at Sunset #3 by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
We spent the rest of the evening with a bottle of Jimador, a case of Tecate, and a set of Cards Against Humanity. Not bad.
[Edited on 2016-4-21 by WideAngleWandering]
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WideAngleWandering
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To Bahia Concepcion
We got up early, well-rested, slightly hungover, and after more of Ramon's tacos, ready to hit the road. We planned to continue along the coast until
Abreojos, get back onto Hwy 1, take a break in San Ignacio, and continue on to to Bahia Concepcion to find a place to camp for the night.
Punta Prieta
I really enjoy this stretch of "road". The coastal views, the geology, the beach combing, hauling ass on long straight dirt roads, some easy trails
...
Landcruiser Near Punta Prieta by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
The problem is, we're all easily distracted. I believe this beach is just outside of Punta Prieta, near Bahia Asuncion. There are abalone shell
fragments, lobster-filled tidepools, cool rocks and beautiful sea views.
Beach & Tide Pools near Punta Prieta by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
Waves Rolling In Near Punta Prieta by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
So we let the dogs out.
Dogs on Punta Prieta by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
... and did some beach combing and rock admiring.
Blue & Red Rock Layers near Punta Prieta by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
But eventually we had to get moving. By the time we'd reached La Bocana, it was getting late and we decided to keep on trucking. Sorry Blanca - I
really did mean to stop by on this trip. As we approached Abreojos we drove through the town dump. Yikes.
San Ignacio
San Ignacio Mission by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
We rolled into San Ignacio before sunset, and decided to try and stay in town rather than look for camping at Concepcion in the dark. We tried the
new hotel but it was full. We checked the Desert Inn. Full. We stopped by Ignacio Springs, which actually had a yurt available, but only because a
palm forest fire had burned part of the grounds and lead to cancellations. It appeared to be the work of a local pyromaniac. Not wanting to risk a
middle-of-the-night evacuation, and not in a good position to take advantage of the fancy property, we went out to the highway and got a cheap room at
the Oasis.
And promptly witnessed a local family's dog get run over by a car. Sucktastic.
Now traumatized, we headed back to the square to look for tacos. There were no taco carts on the plaza (a bad omen?), so we took a seat outside a
little restaurant. The friendly young woman brought us a basket of burnt tortilla chips and some warm beer. We guzzled the lukewarm Pacifico and
asked if they had any cold ones. They'd just loaded the fridge so we moved on.
Further down the road is a place I'd been to before so we took a seat. And waited. And waited. They were completely swamped by a couple of whale
watching tour groups. Eventually we got cold beer (!). An hour or so later we had some food. My buddy was served a partially raw lobster.
So far this stop was turning out to be a bust. Pyromaniacs, booked up hotels, tour groups, dead pets, warm beer, burnt tortilla chips, undercooked
sea food. Damn.
The next morning we went back to the square and grabbed breakfast from a street stall. It was hot cheap and tasty. Our passengers spiked their
coffee with rum and life was good again.
I took a short walk around the mission before we hit the road.
San Ignacio Mission by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
I was greatly amused by the phrasing on the signs explaining the mission.
| Quote: |
"During the first third of the 19th century, the indigenous population disappeared completely from this mission's territory due to epidemic disease
and cultural changes in their way of life." |
San Ignacio Mission by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
| Quote: |
"Unfortunately, the Indians were not given much food and were expected to forage for what they needed. Many died along the trail."
|
San Ignacio Mission by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
| Quote: |
"Padre Serra stayed three nights in San Ignacio, giving the padres time to discuss the sad decline of the Indian population." |
Jesus Hangin' by Wide-Angle Wandering, on Flickr
| Quote: |
"In 1840 they housed Dominican Padre Felix Caballero in his last months of life. He had treated the Indians so cruelly in his mission to the north in
the Guadalupe Valley they rose against him and he took shelter in San Ignacio. The padre's death marked the last time a padre would live permanently
in San Ignacio for more than 100 years." |
[Edited on 2016-4-22 by WideAngleWandering]
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motoged
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More great pics.....the coast from Asuncion to Bocana has a lot to offer those who take their time.
Too bad that the church benefited far more than the "parishioners"...what would Jesus say?
Don't believe everything you think....
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BajaBlanca
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I am so disappointed that you didn't say hi.....and share a beverage with us on the porch.
Your trip looks positively epic!
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Bajahowodd
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While I would absolutely not recommend it as a first choice in town, Ricardo's is a decent place to stay and has a reasonably good restaurant. And
then, it is really not in town.
Great margaritas. It's their saving grace.
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David K
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Thank you for sharing your photos...
Glad you could get onto Shell Island without getting too muddy and see how most of Baja's coastline used to be before houses and hotels lined the
beaches in so many places. It is a place for people who need NOTHING in the form of amenities other than what Nature provides.
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WideAngleWandering
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This is the downside to group travel. Cat-herding and decision by committee. Next time for sure!
| Quote: | david k:
It is a place for people who need NOTHING in the form of amenities other than what Nature provides. |
It was perfect! I just wish I could have talked my companions into spending a couple nights there. This is my #1 camping destination near SF from
now on. It's delightfully perfectly empty with just enough risk of getting stuck to make it interesting.
Traveling the Americas via my old land cruiser
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BajaBlanca
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ok I get it! next time, God willing.
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