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del mar
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[*] posted on 9-13-2017 at 03:30 PM
paint over rust


looking for a source to buy POR15 in TJ-rosarito-ensenada. anyone have a source without crossing north? gracias :D
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[*] posted on 9-13-2017 at 04:54 PM


Does it work? Results? Cost? Rust Never Sleeps!
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[*] posted on 9-13-2017 at 05:05 PM


good chiit! yes it works. $$$



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del mar
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[*] posted on 9-13-2017 at 05:06 PM


Quote: Originally posted by tiotomasbcs  
Does it work? Results? Cost? Rust Never Sleeps!


$45 a quart, works best on already rusted metal, no idea of the science behind it :?:
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[*] posted on 9-13-2017 at 06:07 PM


Por15, Zero Rust and others work OK on surface rust. It smothers the rusted part, not lettting moisture and oxygen get to the metal. Deep rust where the metal is rusted through will not fare so well. I have had mixed success with it. I prefer to use a rust converter and then zero rust primer.

I suspect you could order it from Amazon..they deliver to Mexico now.
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[*] posted on 9-13-2017 at 06:49 PM




What about Naval Jelly (not navel jelly). :D






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[*] posted on 9-13-2017 at 06:51 PM


I love the ocean, but whose idea was it to put salt in it. Steel or wood, rust or termites take your choice.
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[*] posted on 9-13-2017 at 06:56 PM


A few years back, my Alaskan go-to rig was a heavy duty Suburban. When I went to BFG Mud Terrains on alloy rims, the brake drums and front hubs were rusty and ugly!

I jacked it up, used parts cleaner and power washed them on the vehicle. I then used a product which I believe was called "Endrust" or something similar. It was a white milky fluid that turned to a black primer when it dried.

I then topped it with a metallic silver paint (Hammerite) close to the same shade as the Suburban. The end result was a tough, salt resistant finish that held up to the heat of the brakes.

They still looked good when I sold the truck after five years of running beaches at low tide, and salt on the roads in the winter!




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[*] posted on 9-13-2017 at 07:03 PM


Once the POR can is opened, you need to ensure it is recapped quickly as ambient moisture apparently wrecks the remaining POR....read the fine print....otherwise works well....



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Sr.vienes
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[*] posted on 9-13-2017 at 07:04 PM


A friend sent me test results of all the best penetrating oils and the best by two to one was a homemade mixture of 50/50 acetone and ATF. Kinda not really safe but really does work and I have a lot of old rusty crap.

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[*] posted on 9-13-2017 at 07:07 PM


nothing works on rust except a sand blaster and then a welderto weld in the new piece



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[*] posted on 9-13-2017 at 07:24 PM


Well, I thought I reported a very satisfactory result from treating my rusty running gear, but Susan is saying that I am either wrong, or a liar! Or maybe it was Bob.



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[*] posted on 9-13-2017 at 07:31 PM


susan's an angry old man....who knew?
anyway my buddy just painted his boat trailer with POR15 and his complaint was it has no UV protection, other than that it worked well, just not as a topcoat.
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[*] posted on 9-13-2017 at 07:48 PM


A boy named Sue.

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[*] posted on 9-13-2017 at 07:55 PM


Used it for years works well but you cannot get it off your hands nor your clothes either--Highly recommended:cool:
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[*] posted on 9-13-2017 at 08:19 PM


Quote: Originally posted by Bob and Susan  
nothing works on rust except a sand blaster and then a welderto weld in the new piece


Susan,
You are so wrong, again. :P
I recently used an epoxy-type paint (had to add an activator, and apply w/in an hour) that goes over rusted metal. You have to remove the flaking/loose scale, but then the paint locks down the remaining oxidation. Don't think you can buy it at Home Depot, but commercial paint salespeople can spec the right stuff, if you need it.
Hard to buy the good stuff retail in USA (due to clean air laws), but I bet it's easier to buy in "lawless" Mexico :lol:




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[*] posted on 9-13-2017 at 08:23 PM


POR 15 requires the preparation of rusty surfaces by degreasing and converting the rust. They sell both products.

For typical painting of rusted steel, I convert rust with phosphoric acid product prior to painting with a red primer for rusty metal. Klean-Strip "Rust Converter" (spray can) or gallon jug "Prep & Etch" or Jasco Prep & Primer chemically convert iron oxide (rust) to iron phosphate. I brush or sponge it on and let sit overnight. Deeper rust might require a second application. If you haven't used this stuff before, it is magic!
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip-1-gal-Phosphoric-Prep...

POR 15 has their own rust converter. Not sure if it is a similar phosphoric acid product, perhaps the same stuff at an inflated price.
PO 15 must be topcoated for UV protection. Yes, they also sell a topcoat.
Before deciding on POR 15, do all the research on proper application.
http://www.por15.com/
technical & FAQs here: http://www.por15.com/Product-Info_ep_60.html
I'm currently refurbishing a horse trailer. Not sure that I want to go to the expense of using POR 15. That stuff isn't cheap, especially when you need a gallon, plus the prep solutions and a topcoat.
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[*] posted on 9-13-2017 at 09:03 PM


One word of caution, phosphoric acid, or the products used to convert rust will etch concrete immediately. Protect your floor if you are working on a slab.



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Bob and Susan
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[*] posted on 9-14-2017 at 04:12 AM


anyone who takes this advice...good look

rust is a cancer...the ONLY repair is to remove it completely

sandblasting does a good job but stresses the metal...
then cut the bad stuff out and replace by welding

there is NO cure for the "common cold" no matter what people tell you





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[*] posted on 9-14-2017 at 07:15 AM


Quote: Originally posted by del mar  

$45 a quart, works best on already rusted metal, no idea of the science behind it :?:


Asphyxiation would be my guess. Deprive the metal of air, and it can't rust.....like....things don't rust under water.

[Edited on 9-14-2017 by DENNIS]




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