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CiriosGal
Newbie
Posts: 7
Registered: 11-8-2020
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Solo travel? Loreto to Cataviña
What are the biggest safety risks for a solo female traveler? I'm considering a 5-8 day trip in March/April. Flying into Loreto, renting a car and
exploring the deserts up to Cataviña; Sierra de la Gigante, Sierra San Francisco and the Valle de los Cirios. I'm a field-biologist from Idaho.
Hoping to combine some camping with hotel stays; some eating out with camp food/local groceries. No spanish skills. No adventure partner to bring
along. I do have experience with solo international travel, but never before off the beaten path.
I visited Baja (drove ~600mi down from Tecate) for a week+ back in 2012 and although I was super nervous, never had trouble with the army checkpoints
or Pemex and never got robbed or harassed. Even helped some teenage kids get their car unstuck one night from the beach. Fascinating, desolate place!
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StuckSucks
Super Nomad
Posts: 2307
Registered: 10-17-2013
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I am not a female, so probably not qualified to answer your question.
But, as a guy, I have driven the length of the peninsula solo several times, plus a bunch of times to intermediate spots, and have never felt
threatened. Actually, when I'm remote, I tend to feel more relaxed than on the north side of the border.
Be aware of your surroundings, and it sounds like you'll have a killer trip.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64545
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Plenty of lady Nomads who drive without fear, Paulina is maybe the most well-known.
However, like Stuck, I drove over 12,000 miles solo in 2017 mostly camping in the boonies or isolated beaches. No issues other than missing my wife! I
was on a series of working trips for a future road guide and map.
It is helpful that you have been down to Baja before. You should be fine. Have a great trip. Feel free to utilize my site and it's links for trip
planning: www.vivabaja.com
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AKgringo
Elite Nomad
Posts: 5860
Registered: 9-20-2014
Location: Anchorage, AK (no mas!)
Member Is Online
Mood: Retireded
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That time of year, the difference in temperature from sea level to the mountains can be drastic at night! Bring warm cloths and sleeping bag, and be
prepared to sweat a lot during the day.
If you are not living on the edge, you are taking up too much space!
"Could do better if he tried!" Report card comments from most of my grade school teachers. Sadly, still true!
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Whale-ista
Super Nomad
Posts: 2009
Registered: 2-18-2013
Location: San Diego
Member Is Offline
Mood: Sunny with chance of whales
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Welcome CiriosGal!
Spring is a wonderful time to visit Baja.
I've been a solo Baja traveller for many years, and lived in Ensenada before that. I have also travelled solo, and with other women, in various
countries.
These photos are from an all-woman Baja trip I organized few years ago. We enjoyed a delicious dinner in the town of San Ignacio, following a few days
of whale watching at the lagoon.
Based on my travel- I suggest you use the same common sense people employ anywhere in the world:
- Develop a travel plan and prepare/research accordingly
- Let friends/family know where you will be and when, and how they can contact you if needed (related: have a cell plan that will work in Baja)
As you travel from Loreto
- Develop friendly connections with people you meet as you travel: when you stop to eat or fill the gas tank, ask for advice on local sights,
recommendations on places to stay, where to shop for groceries, etc.
- Tip people who provide service- even a small amount for food servers and gas station attendants (who will pump the gas and usually clean your
windshield) will be appreciated.
- For camping: do so with others around and keep valuables out of view.
- At highway checkpoints (staffed by military): have all your valuables in one or two bags that you can carry with you if they ask you to exit the car
to search inside. This is normal procedure- and they also appreciate a cold drink on warm days.
- If stopped for a traffic violation and asked to pay a fine, better to insist on driving to the nearest police station to settle any payments at the
office vs. on the side of the road/highway.
As for exploring: There are native Mexicanos as well as people from all over the world living in Baja who can advise you on places to visit, guides to
work with, places to stay etc.
You might want to check with Zihul Martinez in Guerrero Negro re:tours into remote areas around the central Baja area. (He's available on Facebook)
This is from a pronghorn sheep conservation program near the town:
If you are interested in whales in March: Shari Bondy is also in Gr. Negro and also knows many local guides/families to lead you into remote areas.
This is her in action, taking photos. She's at www.whalemagictours.com
Hope this is helpful.
Feel free to send a message if you have any specific questions, and welcome to Baja/BajaNomad!
[Edited on 11-9-2020 by Whale-ista]
\"Probably the airplanes will bring week-enders from Los Angeles before long, and the beautiful poor bedraggled old town will bloom with a
Floridian ugliness.\" (John Steinbeck, 1940, discussing the future of La Paz, BCS, Mexico)
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Lee
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3463
Registered: 10-2-2006
Location: High in the Colorado Rockies
Member Is Offline
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Biggest risks being profiled/targeted. Carry a weapon. I prefer a knife.
No Spanish skills? Don't know the culture/language? You need at least conversational Spanish. Get a book and study.
US Marines: providing enemies of America an opportunity to die for their country since 1775.
What I say before any important decision.
F*ck it.
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TMW
Select Nomad
Posts: 10659
Registered: 9-1-2003
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Member Is Offline
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I would suggest you bring a communications device like a satellite phone. You can rent them from various places. The best use the Iridium satellite
system. This way if you have any problems you can call for help or just call someone to talk. Cell phones work in the larger cities but not in the
outback areas. Here are a couple of stores.
https://www.allroadsat.com
https://satellitephonestore.com
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Cliffy
Senior Nomad
Posts: 981
Registered: 12-19-2013
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If going off the pavement anywhere make sure you rent something 4 wheel drive. Carry basic survival stuff water sleeping bag buy a cheap shovel maybe
a small axe to cut brush if bogged down in sand etc etc
Might give some thought to a SAT phone for the duration of your trip. AT the very least you can get a Garmin InReach GPS so friends can follow your
travels on computer and you can send text messages any where you are. Also in case of a real bad deal (life threatening) you can summon emergency
help with it 24/7
The people of Baja are some of the most friendly in the world. Its the other travelers I wonder about.
You chose your position in life today by what YOU did yesterday
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JZ
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9375
Registered: 10-3-2003
Member Is Offline
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Jesus Lee. This is not true.
Don't do this.
[Edited on 11-10-2020 by JZ]
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PaulW
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3022
Registered: 5-21-2013
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Most of us, like the guy responders above, drive 4x4 rigs and have communication devices. We are in touch with help as required.
I would think as a woman you would be well advised to stay away from isolated places. Traveling point to point mostly on the main roads would be low
risk. Travel in the most isolated places is usually done with at least one other partner.
With a communication device like Sat phone or Inreach you must have a contact list of proven persons that can really provide assistance - not just
chit chat. These contacts should be arranged by where they are located. It would not help to contact someone in San Diego when you are stuck in the
sand near Chapala.
With my solo travels when in trouble I have never been able to reach any help and had to improvise. Scarry and it took more than a day to get back to
the highway.
I doubt if a rental will come with self-recovery stuff like most of us carry. Like how can you get unstuck with a rental?
Like you said Baja is "Fascinating, desolate place!"
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BajaMama
Super Nomad
Posts: 1107
Registered: 10-4-2015
Location: Pleasanton/Punta Chivato
Member Is Offline
Mood: Got Baja fever!!
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I have driven that stretch alone many times (I'm 61 now). I prefer staying in hotels, not sure I would feel comfortable camping solo. I keep cash in
2-3 different places and only keep what I need for the day in my purse/wallet. I do keep a knife handy, and a very large mag light flash light within
reach in my car. I used to keep wasp spray close but I seem to recall it is not legal?
I only keep the "weapons" because I am a smaller, older woman. I have never, ever had reason to even consider using them. I always bring ziplock
bags of mini candy bars for the young men at the military check points. Remember to get out of your car to watch gas station. employees fill your
tank.
If you are renting a car, make sure you stay on 2 WD roads, careful of recent washouts.
Overall, locals in Baja are wonderful but there is always the chance of a bad apple or two, so always be aware of your surroundings.
Mission Hotel is Catavina is nice and they have a restaurant. The yurts in San Ignacio are nice too. If you are there in March/April, you may want to
toss in a whale watch trip either in San Ignacio or Guerrero Negro area.
Oh, your cell phone will not work unless you are close to a larger city (Loreto, Mulege, Vizcaino, Guerrero Negro, Santa Rosalia, San Ignacio) so a
sat phone is a good idea if you need to keep touch.
[Edited on 11-9-2020 by BajaMama]
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13034
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
Member Is Offline
Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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Myself, my daughter and lots of women friends drive and sola camp but there are places it is not advisable to camp. Talk to folks in each area. Dont
tell people you are alone and if someone shows up tell them your husband will be back soon.
I suggest getting a Garmin In Reach so you can have communication in areas not on the grid and without cell service. It has contact numbers in it and
you can send an SOS or text message to contact emergency numbers. If you want I can be one of your contacts as I live in Central Baja and know lots of
people who can help in case of emergencies....just U2U me.
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JZ
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9375
Registered: 10-3-2003
Member Is Offline
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Look at the cell coverage map for your service provider. Most of the way along the highway from Loreto to Guerrero Negro you will have good cell
service. Above there to Catavina there won't be.
Here is the map for at&t: https://www.att.com/maps/wireless-coverage.html.
[Edited on 11-10-2020 by JZ]
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ehall
Super Nomad
Posts: 1906
Registered: 3-29-2014
Location: Buckeye, Az
Member Is Offline
Mood: It's 5 o'clock somewhere
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Post up when it gets closer. A lot of us enjoy camping trips and exploring.
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azucena
Nomad
Posts: 193
Registered: 8-25-2012
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I have travelled solo to Baja since the 1980s sometimes with my children and sometimes alone .
I have never had any probem whatsoever, although I no longer pull off the road in random places to spend the night.
I carry a cell phone , but in much of the interior there is no service. I have never carried a Sat phone, but that is a good suggestion.
I also have never carried a weapon such as a knife, but do have a mag flashlight. Problem with things like knives they can easily be used against you
by someone or someones stronger than you.
For me, my best "defense " has always been being watchful of my surroundings, being polite and friendly, and as someone else mentioned up thread, a
few bags of candy can go a long way at checkpoints.
Speaking the language is an asset, and even if you make mistakes the effort is hugely appreciated.
People in Baja (and much of Latin America ) are courteous.
Every time you enter a store, resturaunt, gas station, anywhere, a Buenos Dias is HUGE
Years ago, I entered a small cafe in a rural area, at that time not accustomed to gringos, and every eye was on me and it felt a little tense. As
soon as I spoke a Buenos Dias the entire atmosphere instantly changed.
Porfavor and gracias are also important.
When in a eatery saying Buen Provecho ( enjoy your meal ) to people eating around you is also a polite thing to do.
I remember getting a flat in an isolated area, and two locals pulled over, changed my tire and I had to insist they take the money I offered.
Baja has changed but the Cholleros , Baja natives are the generally the most honest, kind people you could ever meet.
But like anywhere, keeping your eyes and ears open and paying attention is your best way to be safe. If something feels not right, trust yourself.
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KasloKid
Nomad
Posts: 326
Registered: 8-29-2009
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Right... knives with a blade length over 3 inches (I think the max is 3 or less) is a prohibited weapon in Mexico. Others may chime in with
objections to this comment, but it is against the law... same as mace or bear spray.
Lots of good advice posted.
Common sense and situational awareness is the key to any potential scenario.
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Lee
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3463
Registered: 10-2-2006
Location: High in the Colorado Rockies
Member Is Offline
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There's a bigger risk than being profiled/targeted? What is it?
And, this is true for me. Not a problem. And, I don't really care what the law is in MX regarding a knife. Apologies to those who take
offense.
US Marines: providing enemies of America an opportunity to die for their country since 1775.
What I say before any important decision.
F*ck it.
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thebajarunner
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3687
Registered: 9-8-2003
Location: Arizona....."Free at last from crumbling Cali
Member Is Offline
Mood: muy amable
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Mostly good advice
Go out to Abreojos and check in with Blanca
She is right there at La Bocana
She can steer you to safe places
Go up to Asuncion, Shari can do likewise
LABay, go to Archelon and see Bety. She is like family and will make you feel right at home.
Bad advice....
Knife.... unless you are special weapons trained and have a black belt I advise you keep a small knife for whittling and fixing. Trying to defend
yourself with a knife would not end up pretty
4 wheel drive.... oh boy, here we go again.
Nomad has a clique of folks that worship the concept of 4 x 4 vehicles. It is almost a small cult.
YOU DO NOT NEED FOUR WHEEL DRIVE TO GO OFF THE PAVEMENT!
How to safely navigate 99,8% of Baja roads with standard 2 wheel drive:
Don't drive across the sand dunes
Don't drive up a real sandy wash
Don't drive off into a muddy area
Don't try to climb a vertical hill studded with big rocks.
Don't listen to the 4 x gang!!
Have fun, if the going gets questionable off road just air down your tires, You will do fine.
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pacificobob
Super Nomad
Posts: 2257
Registered: 4-23-2006
Member Is Offline
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i have a female neighbor , 74yo, who drives the length of the baja twice a year. sola! she checks in with family and friends along the way,and
takes the usual precautions. daylight driving ect.
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wilderone
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3791
Registered: 2-9-2004
Member Is Offline
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I have traveled Baja alone many times. Most of my vehicles have been 2WD, but with a little clearance. Last trip - 16 days - I flew into Cabo and
rented a standard 2WD sedan. Went offroad a lot - squirreled around in the sand a bit, bumped over some rocks, etc. - but always made it through. I
never felt unsafe. If I get a "vibe" when scouting out a boondock camp site - I leave. Just relax - if a dirt road seems dicey because of sand or
erosion ditches, walk it, maybe toss some large rocks, look for the most solid ground. Just relax and have fun. If you take a laptop, you can stay
in touch with Bajanomad people for advice and contacts. As mentioned above, spend some time with Sherry in Asuncion, or Blanca at LaBocana.
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