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Skipjack Joe
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8084
Registered: 7-12-2004
Location: Bahia Asuncion
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Bruce R Leech
Tire codes
Tire width. The first number in the series denotes the width of the tire, measured across the tread from sidewall to sidewall (figure B). The
measurement is expressed in millimeters. In our example, the tire is 205 millimeters wide. The appropriate tire width relates to the width of the rim
on which it will be mounted. |
Bruce,
Does this mean that if I wanted to purchase a tire that is wider I might have to purchase a new wheel to go with it?
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Bruce R Leech
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6796
Registered: 9-20-2004
Location: Ensenada formerly Mulege
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Mood: A lot cooler than Mulege
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possibly yes. each tire has a specification for the min. and max rim width that it can be used on . If you git out of the specs the tire will not
perform properly and can even be vary dangerous.
Bruce R Leech
Ensenada
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Neal Johns
Super Nomad
Posts: 1687
Registered: 10-31-2002
Location: Lytle Creek, CA
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Mood: In love!
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Here are the BFG T/A KO tire sizes including rim width range. I find that I can put a bigger tire on a rim that is one inch too narrow (by BFG
recommendations) with no problems. YMMV
http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/assets/pdf/all_terrain_ta_kd....
Bruce is right that temperature is the enemy. The tire heat build up is caused by the tire flexing and is also dependent upon the pavement
temperature. Therefore, you can run lower pressure at slower speeds (same number of flexes but more time to disipate the heat) and over dirt/sand
roads which are not as hot as pavement. The recommended tire pressure on the door jamb is for full load at high speed on pavement. The Max Pressure on
the tire sidewall is the maximum pressure to which the tire can be safely inflated.
The advantages of lower pressure off-road are: Greater traction, less chassis vibration (bumpers and spare tires have fallen off on washboard roads),
and less beer spilled (Mountain Dew in my case).
[Edited on 4-18-2005 by Neal Johns]
My motto:
Never let a Dragon pass by without pulling its tail!
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David K
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Posts: 64486
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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| Quote: | Originally posted by surfer jim
David...why did you replace at 30K miles?.....under warranty?....
My current tires came with the truck when new...38K miles...but several tires losing air...sidewall cracks...some cuts in the tread....and a patched
sidewall puncture (in baja)....tread still good for the most part....
Have been thinking that with low mileage driving that the age of the tire is more important than the mileage...sort of like a motorhome....makes a
case for cheaper tires that get replaced every 3-4 years..... |
YES Jim, the Pep Boys Futura Dakotas have a 50,000 mile pro rated warantee... about 25,000 + miles the thread was minimal for Baja (or here), so I
replaced all four at HALF PRICE (about $40 each)!!! How can you beat that? The next set lasted about 30,000 and that is exactly how long the BFGs
lasted.
Here is my tire history on my 2001 Tacoma:
0-30,000 mi. BFG Rugged Trails (came with Tacoma)
30,000-60,000 mi. 2nd set BFG Rugged Trails ($85 ea. at Discount Tires). I bought 2 before my 15 day trip the length of Baja and got many flats (only
on the 2 I didn't replace)... got the other two upon my return.
Went in to Discount for All Terrains for set #3, but at $170 each, I declined, then asked about Rugged Trail TAs but their price jumped to $130 each!
I went to Pep Boys...
60,000-85,000 mi. 1st set of Dakotas ($65 ea. new price)
85,000-115,000 2nd set of Dakotas (I paid $35 ea., pro rated, $70 new price)
115,000- present (126,000 mi.) 3rd set of Dakotas (I paid $40 ea. pro rated, $80 new price)
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HotSchott
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Posts: 156
Registered: 9-4-2003
Location: Sandy Eggo
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BFG
BFG
BFG
A T
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pappy
Senior Nomad
Posts: 679
Registered: 12-10-2003
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well, i am on my second set of goodyear m/t's(d rated)285/75/16's.trips up and down state(ca.), into the mountains and various baja locations with
zero problems, and great wear and milage. cooper has just released their new mud terrain tire caled the STT- (has a three ply sidewall )recieved a
very good write up in four wheeler magazine.i use to be in the tire biz, and according to my friends who still are, this new cooper is going to be the
hot ticket, and is about $30.00 less per tire than the goodyear m/t's.
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Mexray
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Posts: 1016
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: California Delta
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Let's face it guys...most popular tire treads are a compromise in order for the tire to perform over a range of different roadbeds...and as such, you
will get less performance/wear/mileage than a tire directly suited for a specific type usage...IE, highway tread for your I-5 stuff, and off-road
tread for playing in the dirt, studs for the ice & snow, etc...
Surfer Jim is right, if you want the most of your tires, get two sets - one for your daily driver on the hard stuff going to work back home - another
set for the back country on on the soft stuff. Most of us can't do this...so it's off to the rubber salesman to select the black donut we like the
best, or the new one that's splashed inside 4x4 magazines this month.
Buy a more aggressive tread, and put up increased wear when commuting to work on the pot-holed freeways, or more highway-friendly tread and put up
with slipping and sliding on the trails when the going gets rough!
If you do lots of driving, sometimes a cheaper tread designed tire may be less money in the long run as David K has mentioned. If you drive less, a
more costly tread/tire might be a better choice. There are definitely quality differences in tire materials and how they are built - for the most
part, the better tires just plain cost more!
I've used cheapies and not-so-cheapies...today I like the BFG ATKO's, but with only about 10K miles, it's too soon to tell how long they'll last. I
like them in the outback - and they are OK on the hard stuff, unless it's raining hard when they will hydroplane something bad, until you slow down!
Radial grooved tires are better in a hydroplane situation, but that's another compromise...as I said at the beginning...
According to my clock...anytime is \'BAJA TIME\' & as Jimmy Buffett says,
\"It doesn\'t use numbers or moving hands It always just says now...\"
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rob
Senior Nomad
Posts: 509
Registered: 10-19-2004
Location: Pacific Coast, BCS
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Ok - it's all been said, but here's 2 cents more.
Went through 3 Cooper Discovery Mud tires on one Baja trip - all with torn sidewalls, one definitely my fault, the others . . . never again.
One of my workers bought 4 almost new BFG All Terrains, and they lasted less than a year on our less-than-freeway-quality Pacific coast roads.
I have used BFG mudders ever since my Cooper disaster 5 years ago, and nary a sidewall problem (had punctures natch).
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comitan
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Registered: 3-27-2004
Location: La Paz
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More, here in La Paz if you look at the 4wd vehicles the mexicans are driving the majority are usuing BFG T/A thats what I bought 1 trip to states and
off road every chance I get. They look like they were put on yesterday.
Strive For The Ideal, But Deal With What\'s Real.
Every day is a new day, better than the day before.(from some song)
Lord, Keep your arm around my shoulder and your hand over my mouth.
“The sincere pursuit of truth requires you to entertain the possibility that everything you believe to be true may in fact be false”
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bufeo
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Location: Santa Fe New Mexico
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BFG Rugged Trails came stock on our truck (F250 HD SD 4X4). They will come off and BFG ATs will go on after a few more miles.
I pay more attention to shocks. Lousy shocks, which include the vast majority of OE stuff, will reduce the longevity of a tire as quickly as loosing
track of tire pressure. The so-called Heavy Duty F250 came equipped with a name-brand shock with "Baja Racing History", but they were absolutely
worthless on the dirt roads we drive. I've replaced them with Bilstein 7100 series reservoir shocks. Now that's a shock absorber.
As to tire brand loyalty, I don't have it. I've had good performance from BFGs--the odd nail through the sidewall, notwithstanding--and from Goodyear
and Michelin. We're talking lots of miles here, both dirt/gravel miles and pavement. I remember in the '60's and '70's we were touting Armstrong
"Rhinos" or any number of the dozen or so models Dick Cepek offered.
Then too, we could discuss the advantages/disadvantages of steel-belted (better traction on the flat and longer life) or the bias-ply (stronger
sidewalls), but the trend has been to the radial tires because most drivers judge a tire by the number of miles traveled on them in the end.
To me, the total number of miles I travel on a set of tires is of less importance than the performance of the tire while traveling those miles. I
remember the Yokohama Mud Diggers I had. For a great traction tire the "Dog Bone" was exceptionally quiet, but for some reason I didn't buy them
again after selling our Jeep they were on. 
Advice from James Crow and Spencer Murray twenty years ago is still worth reviewing:
No matter how much you know about tires or how much you spend on them, it's the way you use them that makes the real difference....you be good to
your tires and they'll usually be good to you.
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Arthur
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Posts: 232
Registered: 10-2-2003
Location: San Anselmo, CA
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A couple of people early on in this string were assuming that larger-diameter tires get worse mileage. I've never been able to see why this should be
true. Sure, they will probably throw your odometer off slightly, but it seems to me what they're bound to do is affect your gear ratio. Won't
larger-diameter tires raise the ratio just a bit, so you'd get slightly better mileage on the freeway and slightly less of a low when you're going
slow?
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bajalou
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4459
Registered: 3-11-2004
Location: South of the broder
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Larger tire diameter means less turns to the mile but more effort to make those turns.
No Bad Days
\"Never argue with an idiot. People watching may not be able to tell the difference\"
\"The trouble with doing nothing is - how do I know when I\'m done?\"
Nomad Baja Interactive map
And in the San Felipe area - check out Valle Chico area |
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comitan
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4177
Registered: 3-27-2004
Location: La Paz
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Therefore if you have the horsepower you should get better fuel economy.
Strive For The Ideal, But Deal With What\'s Real.
Every day is a new day, better than the day before.(from some song)
Lord, Keep your arm around my shoulder and your hand over my mouth.
“The sincere pursuit of truth requires you to entertain the possibility that everything you believe to be true may in fact be false”
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Arthur
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Location: San Anselmo, CA
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Yeah, but for the purposes of discussion we've got to keep something constant. So I agree with this, but (with all due respect) I think the last two
replies above that don't reflect the way things actually work. I could be wrong, of course, but that's the way I see it at this point.
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bajalou
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4459
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Location: South of the broder
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Using more horespower to turn the wheel uses more gas.
On a level road, you might get better mileage, but pulling up hills etc, it takes more horsepower to turn the wheels.
No Bad Days
\"Never argue with an idiot. People watching may not be able to tell the difference\"
\"The trouble with doing nothing is - how do I know when I\'m done?\"
Nomad Baja Interactive map
And in the San Felipe area - check out Valle Chico area |
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Hook
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9006
Registered: 3-13-2004
Location: Sonora
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Mood: Inquisitive
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Not sure what the best overall brand is.....
.....as I have been happy with Duelers on rice burners and Michelins and ONE set of BFGs on trucks by the American mfgrs.
But I can tell you that I am suspect of the q/c at BFG, due to all the tread separation and sidewall blowouts I have seen over the years. In some
cases, the tires never saw any off-road conditions. 
I am about 30k into a set of Michelin LTX MS 10 ply tires on my F350. It has had a 2400# Lance on it for about 1/3 of that 30k and has also done a
bit of towing. Looks like I will get another 10k on them. Very impressive, IMO, for applications this heavy. I am usually between 70-80 psi. They were
160.00 each at Costco during the very regular Michelin rebate program they run.
As you can imagine, the ride is not the greatest on full leafs. I am currently running Rancho 9000s that I run on the softest settings in front and
the mid setting (3) in the back. Yes, even with the Lance on the back, setting 5 is too stiff. Would welcome any recommendations about a shock combo
that might improve my ride. Had Bilsteins on my old RV and loved them. What's the reasoning on the KYBs in back? I loved my KYBs on my rice burners!
What, no reminiscing about Gates Commandos?
[Edited on 4-26-2005 by Hook]
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eetdrt88
Senior Nomad
Posts: 986
Registered: 2-20-2005
Location: Az/Ca/Baja
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radial Baja
i bought my truck used almost 1 yr. ago,it came with tires that say WIDETRACK Radial Baja on the sidewall...i dont know who makes these but they kick
ass,i've driven about 20,000 miles,thats including about 4 baja trips(2 trips with over a couple hundred miles of offroad driving)and they still have
quite a bit of tread and no blow-outs yet,i'm wondering which mnfr. makes these???
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64486
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Dick Cepek
In the 1970's (when I started driving), Dick Cepek is where you went to get 'Baja Proven' tires! This was before he had his own name brand on the side
walls (with DC on the side tread repeating)... He promoted Armstrong tires... First was the Armstrong 'Hi Way' floatation tire... smooth, non
aggresive tire with simple grooves... like airplane landing tires. They worked great in the sand... I had them on my Myers Manx rear tires (my dad had
a set for his Wagoneer).
Next tire Dick really pushed was the Armstrong TRU-TRAC for big rigs and Armstrong NORSEMANs for light rigs. I put Tru Tracks on my Cherokee Chief
when the Goodyears it came with needed replacing... Tru Tracs were awesome.
Dick Cepek had a great catalog full of Baja Proven products, including camping gear, guidebooks, and naturally tires, lights, and shocks... They
started in South Gate, and expanded... the store for San Diego County was in El Cajon.
Sadly, after Dick suddonly died (in England on a business trip), his son Tom let things go or ? The retail stores closed up... Off Road Warehouse is
the closest thing down here to what Dick Cepek's was like. I still see Dick Cepek brand tires in some catalogs...
Off road & Baja cartoonist Dave Deal (lives nearby) was the creator of the cover art for the original Dick Cepek catalog... It was an orange Chevy
Blazer, with 'Big Deal' Dave behind the wheel. Anyone remember the Cepek catalogs?
[Edited on 4-27-2005 by David K]
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Baja Angel
Junior Nomad
Posts: 74
Registered: 3-28-2005
Location: Oceanside
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Mood: ...just cruisin'
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I remember the Cepek catalogs! I used to run the Tru Tracs on my CJ5...
that was a long time ago. I used to get mine at the old Price Club in Santee. 
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TMW
Select Nomad
Posts: 10659
Registered: 9-1-2003
Location: Bakersfield, CA
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A couple of things that help to prevent flats off the paved road. Don't let your tread depth get low. I replace my tires at about 1/2 depth. While it
won't keep a nail out it does help against sharp rocks. When dricing off-road especially in rocks use 4 wheel drive to prevent wheel spin. Quite often
rear wheel spin in sharp rocks will result in a flat. For side wall care know where your placing your wheels. Ride over the rock instead of against
it. For a smoother ride off road and better wheel articulation on IFS disconnect your anti-sway bar. Mark Naugle did an article on this and I think
it's still on the Off Road web site at www.offroad.com. I did this on my Toyota for the Pole Line Road run and noticed an improvement right away down the wash board road at Laguna
Salada.
As to tire brands I've had good luck with Goodyear, Remington and BFG. BFG is my choice but dollars do play a part. Bad luck with Dunlap. Bruce listed
all the codes etc. My 04 GMC Z71 came with Bridgestone P265/75R16. I usually run them between Baja trips because they are not as noisey and I want to
save my LT285'75R16 BFG AT KOs for Baja.
The problem with too narrow a rim is the tread will be rounded and wear mostly in the center. Lowering the pressure helps but does not solve the
problem, get a wider rim.
One of the biggest problems I have had is getting a good wheel alignment. Most shops put or leave too much positve camber in. I started doing my own
camber adjustments a few years ago. If your front tires are wearing mostly on the outside the camber needs to be reduced. It should be 0 degrees to
maybe 1 or 2 degrees positive at normal ride height. Negative camber will cause the tires to squeel on turns.
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