MULEGE MIRROR - "Remember When?"

As of Dec. 9th, 2013 all photos in this thread have been restored as originally posted. This was due to a major snafu with Photobucket. And I want to tell you, it was a helluva lot of hard, tedious work!

I hope you enjoy these Mulege scenes.

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FIRST POST - SAM'S PIZZA PARLOR

As Mulege is my adopted and loved Baja home town, I figure to be posting photos of this village until it's dirt nap time. To make things easier on my memory banks, and not hijack anybody else's threads, I will post my photos, comments, rants, and reports here. Life will become muy facile.

DONNA MOE'S PIZZA & SAM'S PLACE

To begin....Many years ago we had a great little newspaper in Mulege..called theMulege Mirror. Sadly, it is no more, but in remembrance of a fun read I will dedicate this thread to the publication. It was widely read amongst tourists, expats, locals, snowbirds, FBI, IRS, ATF, etc.

Who knows?...maybe we can breathe some life back into it and it's authors. Kind of recapture that other laid-back era. Odd..a little tear just ran dripped off my chin as I typed that. Opps, not a tear...just foam from this weird Newport marina micro-brewery. Hope Toshiba laptops are beer-proof.

Now I always got my copy of the Mirror at Donna Moe's Pizza at the plaza in downtown Mulege. Had breakfast there and caught up on the absolutely true gossip in the editorials and 'Maude Tells All' column ...or at least until it was time to watch amazing Zulema walk the square. There were certain 'must do' duties in my day back then and this was #1. Ach, it was always very dry work..but Sam was a caring host and ready with a cool one.


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Here's a photo from the dim past at Donna Moe's. A place that was a lot like "CHEERS."





Donna Moe's Pizza was located across from the city square and this bougainvilla.





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I was in town a few weeks back and took this melancholy photo of Donna Moe's. Now that brought a real tear.




Who wants to start up a breakfast bar? I'll talk to Zulema.









[Edited on 7-17-2015 by Pompano]

REALLY OLD wall top burglar defense.

"Old times are not forgotten."

This particular style of wall cap is not in vogue anymore. So much blood to wash off....tsk, tsk.







Stark and to the point. If you used this defense in the USA, you might as well just sign over the house to the perps and save yourself the lawsuit.

[Edited on 12-7-2013 by Pompano]

The oldest continously-running hotel/cantina in southern Baja.

The Hacienda.

Don't you just love those places which offer a quick glimpse of cool places within...a pleasant spot to quafe that thirst and sit in the shade of a bougainvilla tree.

I once wrote love poems in this safe haven...infused with several Cuba 'Communistas.' Let's see if I can remember a few...."There was a young girl from Exeter, so beautiful men craned their necks at her, even one so brave as to take out and wave..."

Strange..I never heard back from the New Yorker on any of those..ah, well, screw them city slickers...I'm a fisherman at heart.

A Communista con Cubana (cigar)...

Right on, Paula...Those are the kind of semi-hidden places we like to explore when traveling to new destinations. We did stay at the Hacienda for a couple of days back in 1972 and then again when the house was being torn apart. I remember it was about $4 a night the first time. Not the Ritz, but clean and a welcome bed, shower, etc. Tons of character and charm in the inner sactum. They still brought cattle in until quite recently, historically-speaking... to auction them off..the watering well/trough is still there. The effect is still comfy, but popularity comes and goes with each new influx of northeners. A French bunch made that place rock in the 80's! Some great times and fiestas.

On the drink name...My Dad started it for me...renaming the old fashioned drink, Cuba Libre, a Cuba Communista and sometimes a Cuba Pintada (meaning stained Cuba) which has club soda and just enough cola to stain it...Dad's play on Castro's staining of Cuba and also eventually taking away the 'libre' part from my Dad's close friends there. We were there as a family when Castro took over the country in 1959.

The glass-shard walls are not found too much around here anymore...but one amigo did put them on his hill house near Posada a few years back. They are close to the highway and had several breakins, until he imbedded glass in new cement. Upon returning after a trip north, they found a pool of dried blood below...ouch. I would imagine the colorful bits would make a nice lightshow in the right moonlight or lamplight. I agree that concertina wire is for prisons.

Care to have a Cuba sometime? Bring Don...they're on me.

Hola Ray....A Communista con Cubana (cigar)...

Hola, Roger...

...Alas, these days I'm confined to 'burning the crops to the ground' of Honduras...I'm told they use smuggled 'seeds' from the Cuban hinter lands to cultivate some equally wonderful Stogies....

Ah life us good, but I still miss that Arena de Concepcion between my toes!

Loved you tales...keep em' coming when you get the chance...

Ray

Pompano: Once you scan in these old photos, just about any old photo image software will clean them up for you. I ran your top photo through the automatic function on Microsoft Photo Editor (it comes with older versions of Microsoft Office). Check out the difference:

egads, fulano...that photo-editing really does make quite a difference. I just got a new Toshiba laptop so will hunt around for that feature. Gracias..a LOT of my photos need help a little sprucing-up.

Mike...did John and Sue drink? Every time I went 'up top' during the short time Frisbee and Sue were there it was a church social. The cookies and hot chocolate were always good. Carlos was good, and learned his trade at the old Casablanca across the square many years earlier, when Pico de Oro was in town.

This photo shows where their old bar used to be...atop Sammy's Pizza. Long gone now.





Looks a bit forlorn now, doesn't it?


[Edited on 12-7-2013 by Pompano]

??did John and Sue drink? Every time I went 'up top' during the short time Frisbee and Sue were there it was a church social. The cookies and hot chocolate were always good. Carlos was good, and learned his trade at the old Casablanca across the square many years earlier, when Pico de Oro was in town. ??

well no, actually they did not.
you see they were Normans on a mission representing Rev. Ewing's reknowned "Church by Mail" originally based in Normandie.

of which i am also an agent able to confer rights of counsel and ministration to anyone interested in sending $19.95 plus S&H to my paypal account.
with it you'll receive a complete package of ordination, or is it ordaination - hell i forgot - but the thing is once you are prefected in the rights you don't have to pay income taxes. But wait!! there's more! - act now and i'll double the offer - you get TWO minister kits plus a sacramental blender.

so no, they didn't drink....much.

MIKE..!! You need to join us on this walkabout. We need a good point man...and this is a land of heathens.

The Frisbees...NOW it is coming back...those guys did drink...and some days I could see my house from way up there.

HACIENDA LORE

HACIENDA LORE...

I have been trying to recall all the various characters who have ran the cantina and hotel since I came upon the scene..people who have leased or rented the 100+year-old hotel from it's owner, Alfonso Cuesta.

I remember Alfonso himself was there running it when I first walked through those great front portals. Great times were had there in the early times when we came off the old rough road. We once took 2 weeks from San Quentin to Mulege, hard going, but truly grrreat times. That old hotel was a welcome sight even coming from nearby Sta. Rosalia..a mere 4-hour trip then...which is today a boring and too-fast 45 minutes.

Even back then Mulege was a gathering spot for backroad lovers...travelers, writers, photographers---all typical early Baja characters. Visitors came by sailboat, luxury yachts, overland like us, but mostly them came by planes. We, on the other hand, were 'airborne' a few times ourselves....

When we first checked into the Hacienda, we took 2 showers, got the clean clothes out, then hit the cantina for that needed cold one...and saw a piece of history unfold before our eyes.

The cantina's walls, ceiling beams, mesquite-fired grill, watering well, and any handy surface to write on..were cluttered with notes and signatures of travelers from everywhere on the globe...we marveled at some Hollywood names.. John Wayne, Jayne Mansfield, Bing Crosby, Lee Marvin, Ricardo Montalban, Tracy, Burt Reynolds, Miquel Mijia, Donald Sutherland, Fabian, Anthony Quinn, and many more...some like Lou Federico, Erle Gardner, JW Black, and Ray Cannon we would come to know about during our soon-to-come Baja initiation.

We felt like we had found King Tut's tomb. There were hundreds more signings from around the world and it was great to read those early reports of enjoyment and surprises. We humbly added our own ..but as close as possible to our favorites.

(Oddly and sadly, those old autographs and notes were painted over during a renovation in the late 80's by a fellow named Funk, who leased the place from Alfonso for a year or two...he painted the rock mural stick figures in thier place. We were shocked and peed -off. So much for nostalgia.)

Here's a recount of one of the earlier denizens of the Hacienda.

In those older signed-wall times, a nice chap by the name of David Dominguez occupied the cantina and made part of it into a studio for his oil-portrait profession. For extra business, he sometimes painted whatever you wanted, faces, scenes, post cards, etc. Once I noticed a full-portrait of a Mexican army officer holding a Thompson machine gun. To each his own. I would have chosen a Schmeisser machine pistol...less grandiose. The cantina/bar stayed, of course, for David loved his toddy now and then..plus a lot of us needed the cantina to stay operating, too.

One day David was hired to do a head portrait of the wife of mi amigo, Richard Long, her name was Sylvia. They lived in Coyote Bay and David would go there to have her pose. He also had a sideline teaching Spanish at the Posada community and had struck up a friendship with a nice couple there...a certain Dale and Yvonne.

Well, Dah-veed was a lady-killer (in HIS mind anyway) and soon became enamored of the beautiful Yvonne, thinking she would return his advances..which she did not..but he tried..oh, how he tried. It became an obsession.

He got quite maudlin about it and would approach me at the bar with a love-note to hand off to Yvonne on my way home past Posada. I told him I was no John Alden, but he insisted to the point of threatening to withhold my Xmas hand-painted post cards, so I agreed to take it. I never did deliver it, as I knew Dale would break David's painting arm...and I needed more cards.

As the days passed, and David continued the completion of Sra. Long's portrait, he would give me more notes, and I stuffed them in my pockets. David was becoming a little depressed over this whole thing about Yvonne not returning his love calls. He seemed to be drinking a few more highballs than usual...but hey, it was a cantina and he was an ar-teest. Doomed in any way you looked at it.

Then I was on a mission one noon hour as I walked into the studio/cantina and sat down on my stool. David was not at his easel as most times before, but was slumped at the bar with his head in his hands...half a bloody mary sitting there.

I grin, "Hola, David...que pasa? Got a good hangover? Poco crudo?"

His bloodshot eyes looked at me and said..."Rogelio, I'm in big trouble. Sr. Long is coming today to get his wife's portrait. He wants it in time for the holidays. I told him it would be done and ready for him."

I had seen the covered portrait frame on the studio's easel for a long time now and wondered what could be wrong. He had been working on it last night when a bunch of us were in there yakking fishing. I said, "Well, it's only noon, why don't you finish it up now? It can't be much. Hell, if you're that hung-over, I'll do it for you. I know Sylvia very well."

"I did finish it, ...last night. That's the trouble." He walks over the easel and takes off the cover and shows me the finished portrait.

It was an extremely well-done portrait, I thought..David's style stood out...and then it struck me. Whoa! What the..?

About the same time Dav-eed says, "Look! I painted Yvonne's face into Slyvia's head."

I really tried to hold my belly-laugh back, but you know how that goes...the damn beer goes right up your nose and and you snort-spray all over the room.

David is not impressed and shields the portrait. "It's Yvonne's fault..I love her so much."

After I got back in control, I told David I was actually there to pick up the painting for mi amigo, Richard, and would explain everything to him. Not too worry.

Richard (Dick) was a good-natured man and would see the humor in all of this.

David was only too glad to hand over the painting.

And Dick Long did see the humor..especially when I showed him all those love-notes to Yvonne. We had some great times for many years showing folks that absurd painting of Sylvia's neck and hair..with Yvonne's face planted in the middle.

Sylvia was a great sport, laughing about it too, and gave it to me for Xmas a couple years later. Today it hangs in my poolroom in Coyote Bay.

Ah...Mulege! Good for the soul. I could have ended up in Fargo.


[Edited on 3-25-2009 by Pompano]

[Edited on 7-21-2008 by ELINVESTI8]

Whatever became of those love notes from David to Yvonne, Roger? Maybe if they are stuffed in some seldom opened drawer they could be collaged onto a frame for the painting, and the painting moved back to the Hacienda bar.

But that might depend on how David might feel about it-----? ? ? ? ?

Paula, David D. has been gone these many years since his heart was broken by the fair Yvonne. I faintly remember hearing he was in TJ getting it repaired, but who knows.....he was nomadic, too.

I have tons of memorabilia in several holes and will scour them up for that collage. Sounds like fun to me, but could create some confusion on the home front.

For sure, KurtG. It was a genuine sense of loss we all felt when those records were so grossly painted over..still can't imagine why Funk did that to this day. Any cafe owner in the world would have been elated to have them on his walls. I recall they were even on the sides of the courtyard grill and a few carved into the central bougainvilla.



Many conversations about ways to restoring those old friends have taken place since...a project oft discussed, but as yet not implemented. Hey, it's not like uncovering DeVinci's works of art underneath a painting as happens periodically throughout the world, but nevertheless they are treasures to all of us everywhere who love Baja. One can only hope. We need a museum curator, a restoration expert or such to explain if it is possible and how to do it...any out there?

You can practice on my game room wall. Somehow the last scores of the pinto derby were whitewashed over and I want to collect my money.





I love that old Hacienda like one loves a wise old uncle from a better place and time..kind of like the feeling you get from a Norman Rockwell painting. Okay, I admit to being a sucker for nostalgia. Although someone here next to me keeps telling me wearing the same fishing shirt for 4 days now is not being 'nostalgic.'

I remember very well our first room at the Hotel Hacienda. It was numero 4, first corner left as you entered those massive portal doors. (Our departed friend, Mateo, carved the present sign hanging outside those doors today. See my pic.) We called that room home for a couple different stays. You could almost hear the old vacqueros talking and smell cattle.











On honor systems.



Alphonso's honor system for the rooms and cantina was typical old-Baja, and reminded me at the time of where I was born and raised. My family lived with that code in country general stores, and we still use the honor system today at a duckshack I have in a little hamlet on the ND/Canada border. (Pop. 50 until we seasonally congest it to 52 ..thereby starting & completing the tourist season.)
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So much of this village reminds me of similar small places in Baja, where everyone knows everyone and the dogs. Our village business district is one building w/hitching post...bar/cafe/grocer/post office/volunteer fire dept and think-tank. You walk the 100 yards from the duckshack, make yourself at home..if Lorraine or Harry are out hunting or fishing, you write down what you drank, what you ate, and don't play with the firetruck siren in back. Sooner or later the tab shows in your mailbox.

Like our part of Baja, it's not so much about any rules, per se, but how much you respect yourself and others around you. And also like Baja used to be a while back...things are pretty lax up there about certain regulations, but most manage to use common sense. We always try not to scare any elders when landing on the county road outside town.
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Sepember-November there is just what the doctor ordered after driving thru mega-cities. The loudest thing there are the tingling calls of sandhill crane flying overhead...which kind of sounds like doves on steroids. An easy place for any nature lover. An amigo and hunter from Sonora took these 2 photos.....he calls this place BajaNorte, USA.
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Whew...sorry, got a little off-track there, but like any of you with a favorite place in Baja and comparisons in the States...that duckshack sits in a pretty darn good place, too. For us 'hunters'.

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It all just goes to show...The Baja Feeling is where you find it.

Thanks for the tour of the Hacienda Hotel in Mulege, Alphonso.



[Edited on 12-7-2013 by Pompano]

Have seen a glass-topped wall or two down in the French Quarters of New Orleans. They probably stuck that broken glass on the wall tops about 100 yrs. ago.

capt. mike...we all learned to fly Up North by landing where we could, not always where we should..if you get my meaning. My old friend and Baja-vet bush pilot, Dusty, prides himself on landing as 'close' to anywhere I am Up North.

Once the county sheriff called me to ask whether or not I had a twin tied to my fence. I said yes.. he said ..'Heard that, just make sure it doesn't block the sidewalk...you know Vera next door needs it to walk to the post office every morning.' No problema, I replied...I bring Vera dorado from Baja..she brings us fresh cinammon rolls. Works great for all.


The area provides superb goose-duck hunting. Also pheasant a little further south..right, Jorge?
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Now back to Mulege Mirroring......we are off-course.
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For anyone that doesn't know by now, Mulege has a new and convenient place to get ice and beer. Across from the Pemex on the highway north of town.
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Just before the new beer deposito is our own 7-11...or in this case, 11-7. Sophia runs the place and you couldn't find a more congenial hostess. At one time she and husband operated the Villa Motel high atop a hill overlooking Mulege below. A very special view and place.

At her Eleven-Seven, try her mini-burgers on Sat...yummy...or just have coffee or a beer to chat awhile with charming Sophia. English spoken, Spanglish taught.


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Few visitors know about or take advantage of a handy dike-top walkway to a nice river and palm forest scene. It is located just before Pancho Anaya store as you enter Mulege from the north. Take a moment and bring your camera for scenes like this one.



[Edited on 12-7-2013 by Pompano]

SATURDAY CARNITAS

One of the 'special treats' of Mulege is eating carnitas every Saturday at Taqueria Dannys. This fabulous date-fed pork is hand-chopped by Antonio and served with lots of delicious compliments...you should order a bunch right away, as they go fast.

It has become a social event every Saturday since Antonio's father, Ramon, first opend the cafe about 20 years ago. Ramon was first a chef at the next door El Nino steakhouse, and after that closed he opend his own business. Sadly, Ramon passed away too soon in life, but his son and friend, Lorena, carry on a great tradition of good food and genuine hospitality.

RIP Ramon. Here he is surrounded by satisfied patrons.



The place can be jammed by 11, so I get there a bit earlier. Just stay off MY stool.

I could no more go to Mulege on a Saturday morning and pass up these carnitas than I could boat past a fish boil without casting a lure.

The cafe is located at the little square across from Manuel's grocery tienda and next door to the El Nino steakhouse bldg. Easy to find, just follow the one-way main street as you come into Mulege. Or...follow your nose...
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Antonio carries on the tradition.




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[Edited on 12-7-2013 by Pompano]

Pompano, Thanks for the Mulege pictures.

Great Job Pompano :-)

Pompano

Thank You Roger....You have brought back and so well described such fond memories that we all once shared for alot of us older Baja travelers. Thanks again. ++C++

A few older Mulege/Concepcion photos:


Frisbee and Dimas at the Roost


Sam, Frisbee and my mother (right) at the Hacienda. Don't recognize the other woman, but I'm sure someone here will.


Ramon at Dany's Taqueria, which I think was then officially called Asadero Ramon


Old Agustin's camp at the south end of Santispac


Agustin, not looking too happy about getting his picture taken, with Killer Cain's setup in the background


Agustin's canoe

bajaboolie..

Yes, I live in Bahia Coyote and we may indeed have met before. I know Antonio and Lorena very well..and Antonio's father before him. They are part of what makes Baja my favorite haunt. Please stop by for a visit or an overnight when in the Bay. Mi casa es su casa y the cervezas very cold.

NOW...on with Mulege Mirrors ..a photo tour of a Baja village

NEWS FLASH! THE UGLIEST SHOES IN THE WORLD LIVE IN MULEGE!


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Those hairy legs could only belong to a fellow Nomad...it must be......??
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[Edited on 12-8-2013 by Pompano]

Making cement blocks by hand

If Norman Rockwell could only have discovered Mulege..

I could hang around places like this way too long.

Need some plain blocks? I bought my first cement blocks from Sr. Augustine Castro about 20 years ago. Prices have risen a little, but so has his expertise in making a good solid block.

18"long X 6"wide X 8" high = 8.5 pesos each



He also has patio and walk pavers. Very reasonable prices.




Augustine's block yard is located up the Mission Road in Mulege...past the baseball field..past the tienda..first left..and it's on the right about a half block up that street. .
Augustine



[Edited on 12-8-2013 by Pompano]

"The Barber of ..Mulege"

I used to get my hair cut about once a winter when in Baja, but back then it meant a boring trip from Mulege to Sta. Rosalia. Nowadays, we have many more options.


I was minding my own business in Manuel Cuesta's tienda the other day, squeezing the cantalopes, when he and his wife chided me for my need of a haircut.



So..I went next door to his daughter Denise's and told her that her dad was a real putz, but give me a haircut anyway.



I dunno...this could have gone for another month or so..waddya think? Denise took this pic for me.



Denise's salon is comfy, but could use some spitoons and cigars...and where's the beer cooler?



Okay...enough kidding around. For the best haircut you will ever get for 10 bucks, give Denise a try. She's a great hair cutter & stylist.






Here's the hair salon and the putz's tienda.



[Edited on 12-8-2013 by Pompano]

Mulege Mirror 1996

More Mulege Mirror

Did anyone notice....

Hey, nice touch, roundtuit.. I'll have to scrounge a bit for some more old Mulege Mirror copies...I know I put them away somewhere.

Mexray...there are so many, many Roger's in the Bay.

are you kidding me??!! ten bucks for a hair cut in mulege??

How big...

was it?

Dave...so okay, I could use an editor.

SUNDAY, MARCH 8, 2009 - Today in Mulege - 2009 Chili Cook-Off

Mulege Chili Cook-off

It happened today in Mulege. Sorry if you missed it, because it is always a fun affair. This was first organized by locals and gringos over 20 years ago, and now held for the last few years in the central square and sponsored by the Rotary Club, it attracts crowds of Baja folks..locals and visitors from neighboring towns alike.

The money raised goes to support some great charities for the area. Prizes are awarded for the many various chili recipes, salsas, best costumes, and best decorated chili stands. Lots of awards and prizes are donated by local businesses. Raffle tickets along with chili tickets are sold on the spot.

I got there a little late, but bought a bunch of tickets and sampled about a dozen different chili concoctions. Some of which I wanted seconds on, which is surprising for me as I am a purist and eat TRUE CHILI..which means NO BEANS! That aside, the chili recipes were painstakingly prepared and brought to the village square. One ticket = one cup of chili to sample...or salsa if you go that route.

It was a very fun event and all had a rowsing good time! It's part of the reason I love Mulege so much and for so long. It's got terrific people who are so community-minded. The particiapants are almost equaled divided between local citizens and foreigners. Most of the area restaurants had stands. The cook-off is organized and supported by the local Rotary Club.

Now here's a photo show of today's Chili Cook-off 2009.

Parking was no problem with the new parking areas under the bridge. Traffic directors were on duty to help you find a place. Just a short walk to the central square.
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First thing you do is find the ticket desk next to the gazebo. This a Mulege Rotary sponsored event for charity.




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I have always loved spending tranquil times eating one of Dimas' shrimp tacos on the benches under the shade trees, sampling the chili... and enjoying the square's other benefits...
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There were prizes for the best costumes and decorated chili stands.
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And other prizes for charm, exuberance, and best smelling chili servers.
These Nomads won a couple of events. Nice folks, these.
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And Roz's chili was reputed to be VERY good. Sadly, it was all gone by the time I got there. But..I did score some purple.
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Prizes for the best salsa.
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Note: The photo op where you put your head into the cut-out was also very popular. (And this to lady "A" .. I tried to email your requested pic of you and 2 friends in that cut-out, but it came back as bad address...please advise via email and I will send it to you.)



Here's Olivia and Briana of Playa Buenaventura at the cutout:



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All in all, a very fun event. Try to make it next year, you won't regret it! It's another great way to meet your Mexican neighbors and support some worthy charitable projects.
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[Edited on 12-8-2013 by Pompano]

YOU MAY NEED A CAR WASH AND SOME FOOD.

Are you tired of kids doodling dust art on your dirty rear window?

Do you recognize your neighbor's writing? .. 'Wash Me!' .. 'Lavar!' written backwards on your windshield?

Does the interior smell like a wild west saloon?
Can you hear glass bottles clicking when you turn a corner?
Is there a resident pack rat?

Do you know the actual color of your pickup?

Is your stomach growling?

Well...You may need a car wash and some food.

When in Mulege try this place. It's a family affair. On highway, north end of Mulege. Can't miss it.





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Mario Yee and wife run the restaurant part. Thier barbequed pollo is deelicious..and the tacos..and the tortas..and the
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Fernando Yee (right) son of Mario, runs the car wash part along with his worker, Cesar.

"Hey, Rogelio..what's the name of your rat?"
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Here Cesar makes that 350,000 mile Dodge look new again.


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Customers get to sit in the cool shade and enjoy thier meals while the rig is being washed.




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"You were right, Rogelio..it's white."



With a good tip, it's a dang fine thang!



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[Edited on 12-8-2013 by Pompano]

HURRICANE NORBERTO...The Storm

MULEGE'S VARIABLE WEATHER

NOV 2008 - HURRICANE NORBERTO...The Storm




Storms, hurricanes, floods, washouts...Mother Nature's fury!

..and sometimes a surprise ending!
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Dateline: November 10, 2008 The Road to Mulege

It was a dark and stormy night. Well.. almost..it was a dark and stormy day, though.

I'm on the Baja Highway, driving a motorhome through ever-blackening skies, enroute to my home in Coyote Bay.
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Around El Rosario my XM sat radio fades out due to the presence of outer space aliens that are known to frequent that area...and it starts to rain ...coming down in sheets.



Eerily, there was hardy any other traffic...very omninous and that awareness sent a nice shiver through my imagination while peering into the pounding rain. I had heard that Hurricane Norberto was on it's way and due to strike Baja Sur about...now...shiver, shiver.

I pull over during a particularily hard deluge..seeking safety amongst the rocks near Catavina. Then a chill goes up my spine as I squint out through my pelted windows and spot the aliens amongst the cactus ..There! Can you see them!! They've been stalking me..again.
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I wisely decided to take my chances on The Road again, rather than submit to any more abductions by the aliens..once was enough back in the 60's. Though my memory of that time is oddly vague, I do remember being hungry a lot.

Now the vados and depressions were fast filling with fast flood water really fast. Seeing this, I remember the thought, "This could mean Fast Flash Floods!" flashing through my mind. The dreaded FFF!


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Thank God I have packed flash flood survival gear. Note: next trip pack kayak on TOP of vehicle.


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I pass up this chance at a motel. Hey, I'm in a motorhome, for criss-sakes!





Back into the fray and keep my eyes peeled for traffic in this low visibility. My fine-tuned hunter's senses are sharp and alert..I'll be safe.



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I saw no other traffic at all that day..luckily, the road was deserted except for me. I relaxed and drove on.

[Edited on 12-8-2013 by Pompano]

killer storm pics,my buddy and i drove thru John and had some of the most memorable baja moments of all time,we drove thru a few sections of road where it was a real river up to the windows deep,almost the entire road into Abreojos was under water,talk about an adrenalin rush

Nov 2008 - Hurricane Norberto continues....

Now it's November 10th and I'm driving across the Mulege bridge. The rio looks normal at this point..no sign of any flooding from impending Hurriicane Norberto. The storm's epicenture is due to strike this part of Baja within 24 hours. I hurry on to the house to prepare for the worst.
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We arrive at the house late that night and turn in. The wind is up a little and the skies are black...no stars out tonight.




We wake up to a gray sunrise...and what really looks like the eye of the hurricane out there! .



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Of course, its' not, because the full force of Norberto has not yet struck...still a ways out there. As the day commences the clouds get darker, with more density and an ominous look.





The mountains behind the house are laden with low clouds and we start getting some rain and some wind..we are bracing ourselves and hope the old, but trusty, hurricane clips keep the roof on one more time.... We mix a quick c-cktail just in case we don't have time later.
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Then Norberto is upon us and strikes will full force....with a resounding...
... Poof!
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nothing..no big wind, no big rain, nada here in Coyote Bay.
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HURRICANE NORBERTO...The Storm That Wasn't!!
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It was a bit of a letdown to our hurricane watch, although a pleasant one. Hurricane Norberto was pretty much a dud for this locale. Much ado about nothing in the Conception Bay area, which was okay with us. We'd experienced the destruction of Hurricane Juan.

Well, we got a nice little splattering of rain and had a fun Hurricane party out on the patio, nevertheless.
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...and that's Mulege Weather for you. Go figure!
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[Edited on 12-8-2013 by Pompano]

Ken, sorry but my memory banks are only so good. I do recall a Denise but for some reason I can't place her in a pizza parlor..which I'm sure I would have paid attention to..being an addict to pepperoni thin crusts. I 'think' the Denise I knew was a stewardess..but I could be wrong.

Roger this was Denise 18 years ago:



And this was the original Tiffany's Pizza(s) in Loreto, also about 18 years ago:

Ken...sorry, but the Denise I remember was blonde. How was that pizza? Sorry to say, I never did get down to Loreto so much back in those days...too busy up here and at Pta. Chivato.

Oddly enough, your friend Denise looked similar to Mulege's Donno Moe's Pizza operator.

Donna and husband Sam.

[Edited on 4-20-2009 by Pompano]

Quote:

Originally posted by Ken Bondy Roger this was Denise 18 years ago: And this was the original Tiffany's Pizza(s) in Loreto, also about 18 years ago:

Celia's Cafe at Burros Beach..and El Patron by the Mulege Lighthouse

CAFE REPORT - CELIA'S AT BURROS BEACH AND EL PATRON BY THE LIGHTHOUSE

Wednesday, November 11, 2009.

CELIA'S

Our Excuse for being Tardy

A couple days ago, an old friend, Celia (on right), had invited us to her new beach cafe operation, Bertha's at Burros Beach try her new cuisine special on Wednesday nights..barbequed chicken. Both fans of anything pollo, we decided to do just that and marked it down on the fridge door pad..."Wed night, Celia's at Burros." We planned to not go so early as usual, because it is still a trifle warm for us at six o'clock..we would go at seven or so.

As it turned out, we got a little later start heading over to Bertha's at Burros Beach....
..our tardiness had something to do with testing martini olives - stuffed with pimento, garlic, almond, and bleu cheese - in Grey Goose on the rocks to make the best 'Dirty Martini.' Tradition spoke volumes. 2 giant pimento-stuffed olives with just a stain of olive juice on the iced Goose won hands down. Who would put cheese in a martini?? My Maltese pitbull wants to know.

While doing the olive test, we also had to walk down the beach to inspect neigbor Joe's progress on his storm-careened sloop, Springbok. He was sound asleep in the shade of the hull...good progress, Joe. During the entire length of the beach, our companion dogs, The Maltese Bros., had to test each successive beach dog's willingness to defend his territory. As I walked, the sounds of gulls above and barking below drowned out my favorite sound...ice clicking in my glass.

So you can see that All This takes time...and that is our tardiness excuse.

Back on track....We drove from Coyote to Burros to find Celia's/Bertha's beachside cafe completely packed..

Celia had done a very good job of advertising. The parking areas were jammed with cars, but I managed to turn our large vehicle around without a nudge or crunch. (note to pick up Jeep in Mulege as soon as I remember which taller has it.) All of Celia's tables, both inside and outside, were crammed with folks munching and wiping sauce off thier chins. The place will become very popular. Celia saw us and said to wait a sec, she'd steal a neighbor's patio set.. but we thought we'd try again next Wednesday...a little earlier this time with fewer olives! We'll come back soon, Celia, we promise...hey, you're almost next door.

It really was a nice night for a drive, so off to Mulege we went...in search of a dining adventure.
I drove our scenic curvy coast road into town, the full moon shining almost too brightly off to the right...then my co-pilot pointed out I had left the big flashlight on the dash and it was shining in my eyes. Smugness is just plain rude.

We cruise on into the hamlet of Mulege. Driving past cafes that we had eaten at countless times..all good. First to come into view was Saul's La Palapa..but we had just had some shrimp c-cktails there the previous afternoon..

..it was deliciously cool and tasty..
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SAUL'S LA PALAPA



....great place and Saul IS a real gentleman, but we need something different tonight. Serinadad turnoff on the right, but I know Wednesday night is not our night for their combo Mexican plates, so we putt on into Mulege.

We waved to Dimas and his charming wife at his taco stand at the downtown square...a quick thought of Tacos?...but again we had just finished off some shrimp tacos there the other day. Good Job, Dimas! Muy bueno as always.
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Driving past El Candil my co-pilot said No Way. We had eaten there on her first night in Mulege. Unfortunately, she had tripped and fell on an uncovered trench in the cafe floor and sprained her ankle..bummer, eh? Her low opinion of the fish dinner may have been a little biased after that experience. She is still a mite PO'ed. as she had to stay off the foot and her ankle had to remain bandaged for about a week. I mentioned the floor defect to Omar and hopefully it will be corrected soon before more injuries occur.
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Suddenly I thought..Hey, great food, great proprietor, great ocean view, shrimp boats at anchor, a lighthouse, and great ambiance?....sounds like old Baja, right?

You guessed it..We will be eating at El Patron...the Old Almeja out on the north river road across from the lighthouse and harbor master.

We headed out on the river road, passing Antonio and Lorena's Danny's carnitas cafe..which everybody knows is famous for Saturday brunches of delicious pork carnitas and my favorite..rancheros soup.
And yes, we had been there last Saturday! Let me just say...YUM.
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But we on the scent now...and I forge ahead past Saul's Market, past Gringo's boat repair, past the detour to Loma Azul......what? past the detour?..carumba!..we back up after coming to a dead end caused by the flooding of Jimena...bump up over and around a few blocks and find our way throught the dark to come back down on the river road. Past some burning palm logs ..leftovers from the flood. Now past Pancho Villa cafe and bar...to finally throw out the anchor at El Patron...Almeja...the site of many a great night for the last 30 years.
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We are in luck, because there was only 2 other groups ahead of us..and we quickly had drinks and food in front of us...thanks to our host, Tim and his lovely cook.

I ordered Almejas naturally...3 large scrumptuous and waistline deadly half-shell clams baked to perfection with a tangy cheese, spinach, and some cognac. Pacifico or course. Co-pilot had broiled shrimp in ajo sauce. I tried to cavalier a couple, but was unsuccessful. She said they were "divine and mine."
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What a wonderful night with good old Baja amigos. Truly what it's all about. Bravo, El Patron!

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We drove home with those thoughts to Coyote Bay. A gorgeous Baja Quarter Moon was shining in the dark sky. AND..it showed that it would hold water...ergo; I should fish manana!

Ah..that Moon...reminded me of this description: The moon looked like a discarded toenail clipping submersed in a puddle of saliva on a black formica countertop.

Well hey, so I had a little extra cognac.

Buenas noches y buen apetito wherever you dine.


edit to time frame this post:

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======================================================

UPDATE JAN 18, 2010!





And still more benefits to eating at Mulege's cafes...


At Danny's the other day.

While having some great carnitas, you can...

Be a quick goalie for a street soccer game. It was a fluke, but I managed to snap this pic and kickreturn the ball at the same time.
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And get your windows washed by the local CREAD crew.
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..walk across the street to see Manuel's grandson, who's anxious to help out in the store. Now that's a fine family I am honored to know.
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Plus you can do some handy veggie shopping....
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VIVA MULEGE!
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[Edited on 12-8-2013 by Pompano]

MULEGE MIRROR - CAMERA WALK

MULEGE TOUR


"The Estuary" .....It's easy to see from this angle why that river floods so easily during torrential rains in the mountains. The natural 'V' of the Mulege valley makes for a deadly flash flood.



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- MARCH 16, 2010
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Ice & cold beer on highway near Pemex. Good prices and convenient for your trip to the Bay.




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The old Palapa café. We fondly remember our old friend, Saul, and wish him well in La Paz.


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Poolside bar at Serinadad. Unfortunately closed at the time of this photo. Being a Mulege oldtimer, I can remember when there was no pool bar. We didn't know how deprived we were!


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River boating scene. This is where the fishing boat action starts....and ends.


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'Tropical Cottages' at Orchid Park. Ah, Roberto...where forth art thou?

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The Rooftops of Mulege....seen from the highway bridge.


You could find yourself walking back into Time...

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Back on the main highway and in need of a car wash and great bbq chicken? Try Mario for the food...and his son for the wash.

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Let's take a ride through the village, okay?

Hang on, here we go.

Trying not to hit the arch again...

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I believe I can smell beer? Yes, I'm sure I can...very close.


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Here is a gentle slope down into the village. Slow down and watch for pedestrians.



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'Modelorama' Whenever I see this sign I think it's a movie theater.




We're headed past the downtown Pemex. Watch for the Stop sign ahead....Alto! As good a place as any to have an accident.


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..or park and explore for treasure and education. Like this tourist who's getting sign language lessons by Miguel at La Tienda.




Our Chinese Connection. Hola to another Victor. His father was another old amigo of mine....filling my propane tanks over the years.
I also recall finding the best prices on rum here. Ron Palmas...sheesh and ugh.


Just in case. Basic medical help on the left.....and save your soul on the right.

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Hungry? Let's drop into Antonio's and have some pork carnitas. Joining another old friend, Ricardo...fine fellow that he is.


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A lady's man, of course.

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Mulege is full of unique characters and you never know who or what you'll meet.



I met Sarah Palin. Had NO idea she could eat so much.



Francisco's Equipales Café is a great place for fine dining with an overhead view of the parade below.


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To end this little tour, I need to put in a plug for my old fishing buddy...Mateo. He can get you on the fish...the rest is up to you.



*To be continued in some fashion or another...






[Edited on 4-11-2014 by Pompano]

Pompano, Thanks for the photo tour of Mulege.

SOME PHOTOS OF POST-JIMENA DEVASTATION

Sad images...













We all hope this never happens again...and that proper precautions can be taken. Dikes, diversion....whatever it takes.



[Edited on 12-8-2013 by Pompano]

Hurricane Jimena

CONSTANTINE SCORES WITH JIMENA DAMAGE





I had put out an ad for someone to come and take away my storm-damaged boat barn. Lots of free building material to anyone that wanted to do the clean-up.

(Jimena's high winds finally did it in after 40 years of surviving other hurricanes, downpours, clumsy drivers backing boats, trailers, and motorhomes into it's walls, plus other forms of mayhem.)

Constantine, owner of one of Mulege's downtown tourist businesses, came to see what he could salvage. Congratulations, Constantine..and your wife. They needed the material to reconstruct thier Mulege house roof..which had blown away in the storm.

Constantine was true to his word and returned twice to clean up the area very neatly.

Gracias, amigo. Done deal.

Muluge Bomberos - Fire Dept.

TAKE THE MULEGE TOUR...

This place is worth another visit.

The Hacienda Hotel & Cafe. Very old, very unique.

Alfonso Cuesta, proprietor and gentleman of the old school.



Meeting some amigo-citizens...spending lots of pesos...

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..while shopping & driving around town..

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..buy some oysters....sigh...


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..which means another visit to the local ATM...deeper sigh


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We always need groceries. Among many other grocery stores, we frequent Saul's, and Manuel's, and Casa Yee, and Alba's, and.... the list goes on....


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Thurday thru Saturday is dinner time out at Ray's La Habana restaurant. GOOD.

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A local tv techie repairs a busted coax cable for me. Grrrracias, Pulpo/Octavio


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A guy's place. Yee's Hardware. I need some rope and cement, ...and take a turn on the forklift.



Need a taxi? Check the town square. Old No. 19..Nacho. Carumba..if that taxi ever talks, I'll be in deep yogurt.





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hmm...I may need to circle back to the ATM soon...


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Shop some Segundo stores for those special gifts that you just can't find.


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Don't forget to get the Jeep carb checked. Gracias, Polo.


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Marcos is an expert auto-electric mechanic. And today fixes my electric windows. Also did 2 boat trailer light assemblies for me. Been using Marcos since the earth cooled.




Then take a moment to carefully arrange my workshop..


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Ah...Manuel. What can one say? More than an amigo, a compadre. But compadre.where is my missing pig's leg? The one you butchered for me only had THREE.

Never mind, it's Xmas time, so here's an 'accurate' calculator for you...
...and thanks for helping me unload all that firewood!



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Now I'm hungry, so let's go across the street from Manuel's to Dany's Carnitas. Yummm...Hey, how you doing, Zulema?


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TO BE CONTINUED WHEN OPPORTUNITY KNOCKS.



[Edited on 4-11-2014 by Pompano]

Pompano, Please continue! Any pics of Don Chano's?

Still hungry..heading for Dimas' Taco

For a real quick treat, try Dimas at the Taquitos Mulege stand at the square. He usually has shrimp and fish tacos. Very good fast food.




The proper way to eat a taco is...get it in your mouth.

Bob..I have lots of Candil photos. Here's a couple old ones of a friend walking outside the place, a route he took almost every day for many years.







Cypress...I have some photos of that place, too..and will try manana to put them here. Ciao.

[Edited on 4-11-2014 by Pompano]

MULEGE BUSINESSES & SIGHTS

Glass pane shop. Windows, ventanas. I had good luck here replacing many broken window panes from Jimena last season. Enter town and it's across from Mely's a bit on the left side. Good rates and fast service.

Here's one of the pure water stores in Mulege. A brisk business, naturally. Go on Thursday's for half-price. Water....a product everyone uses in quantity. I've heard that some hardy types even drink it straight.

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Under the bridge you can find Mulege's Segundo tiendas..second-hand stores. Let me know if you come across old my old sheepskin coat...
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And right next to Segundo is this neat crafts display. I bought Pancho Villa's mummified head here. And also another from when he was a baby. Truly rare finds!

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Yummm...! Tis the season for strawberries. Who's got bananas, ice cream, caramel, and a cherry?...drool...
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And..golf? Yes, Mulege's dirty little secret. We have a golf course..sigh.
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Many years ago, I paid a small fortune for a local chart with all the favorite pango fishing holes marked on it..from my amigo, Xavier.

He has quite the sense of humor. I should have figured that grouper don't like mountaintops.

Hah..revenge is best served cold....I KNOW where you live, hombre.
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More to come...we ain't done yet, folks. Mulege is full of stories. You might be next..
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[Edited on 4-11-2014 by Pompano]

(Howard, the Serinadad pool is definetely unoccuppied in the earlier hours of a winter morning..brrrr.)

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A Nomad has/had this place for sale. One we seldom hear from anymore. Hello amigo, are you lurking?
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You can get your fishing license laminated at the paper store..near the grocery store behind fire station..on the one-way that goes past the laundomat.

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School's Out!

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These are..without a doubt..some of the BEST corn tortillas in town. Norma's Finest Kind.

But I am sworn to never reveal the location.

Okay, you talked me into it. Find them in this cooler at Saul's Market.

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[Edited on 4-11-2014 by Pompano]