BajaNomad

MISION SANTA MARIA 2010 TRIP REPORT (Part 1 & 2 + CG's report)

David K - 6-2-2010 at 09:58 PM

MISION SANTA MARIA 2010: An Epic Adventure by David K


Memorial Day Weekend 2010 will be one that is firmly ingrained in our memory!

Mision Santa Maria de los Angeles, founded in 1767 and abandoned (as a mission) just 2 years later because the location was just too difficult.

Difficult in many ways, but difficult getting to is one of them!

When the Franciscans founded Mision San Fernando Velicata in 1769, their supply route from Bahia San Luis Gonzaga even avoided Santa Maria, detouring to a canyon north of the Camino Real, which goes through Santa Maria.

In the 1950s to 1970s, the owner of Rancho Santa Ynez, Doña Josefina Zuñiga and her ranch manager Fred Hampe constructed a road to the mission and beyond. The goal was to make the historic oasis valley accessible and continue on to Punta Final on the gulf coast south of Bahia San Luis Gonzaga. Josefina also owned Punta Final Resort and a road between the two places would have been convenient.

The Mexican government finally built the last segment of the Baja Highway from San Quintin to Santa Rosalia in 1973, making access easier to Punta Final from Santa Ynez, albeit still not a direct route. Josefina courted the president of Mexico to have her direct route via Santa Maria be built and paved. All she got was a paved driveway off Highway One. The engineers no doubt considered the Santa Maria route to be far too difficult or expensive to build and they instead constructed the road to Gonzaga Bay from Laguna Chapala, some 31 miles south of Santa Ynez. Road building efforts by the ranch ended.

Part 1 Friday:

Since the 1970s, the road to Mision Santa Maria has become somewhat famous as a four wheel drive challenge. Often earning the route the nick name Mission Impossible. 40 years of erosion and lack of maintenance (except from travelers moving rocks) have made the short trip to Santa Maria a multi-hour ordeal that can leave a lifetime of memories. This latest trip was no exception!

The explorers were members of Internet forums, one for Baja travelers Baja Nomad and one for Toyota Tacoma drivers Tacoma World. The original leader of this group was going to be BajaCat, but a late change prevented his leaving and caused him to ask me to post the details and promote the run. I had been to Mision Santa Maria three times before (1999, 2003, 2007).

My wife Elizabeth 'Baja Angel' and I were in a totally stock 2010 Tacoma Off Road 4WD double cab and met up with Paul 'HB Murphy' and his lady Zoom, in a 2009 Tacoma Off Road 4WD double cab but with a lift, oversize tires and a front locker. We crossed the border together about 11 am Friday. Paul got called over for inspection by Mexican customs. We pulled over and waited just ahead. In a few minutes we were again southbound on Highway 1-D with beautiful views of the coast to Ensenada.

Some off road racing activity was noticed as the Baja 500 was just a week away and many racers were pre-runnin' the racecourse to familiarize themselves with this year's route. The normal farm activity traffic was found from Camalu to San Quintin. Other than that it was an easy drive to El Rosario and the wonderful Baja Cactus Motel operated by Antonio Muñoz. We arrived about 4:45 pm and topped our fuel tanks. I noted the best mileage yet on my new Tacoma of 18.7 miles per gallon.

Already in El Rosario for the overnight stop was Neal Johns in a 2003 Tacoma with pop-up camper, Chris (CG) in a Dodge Dakota with a rear locker and off road mods, Kurt G who rode with CG, and Teddi 'Baja Bucko' who rode with Neal.

We all went to dinner at Ed Lusk's Bed & Breakfast restaurant, called Baja's Best and enjoyed his fresh squeezed orange juice tequila sunrises, margaritas, and cold beer with dinner. We enjoyed lobster, scallops, and chicken burritos before returning to our deluxe rooms at Baja Cactus.


Neal Johns & Baja Bucko (Teddi)


HB Murphy (Paul) & Zoom


CG (Chris)














[Edited on 4-22-2021 by David K]

DAY 2 Saturday

David K - 6-3-2010 at 10:01 AM

A great night’s sleep at Baja Cactus had us up early Saturday morning for breakfast next door at Mama Espinoza’s. We were on the road before 9 am and had a beautiful drive to Santa Ynez. There we met Bajatripper (Steve and Zully) and edm1 (Art and his daughter Maya). The adventure began at 10:30, on schedule… and that is a rare thing to try and keep in Mexico. Being that we had 6 vehicles it would be a long day with stops, etc.



Stickers at Rancho Santa Ynez


The caravan started with my 2010 Toyota Tacoma, followed by HB Murphy’s 2009 Tacoma, then Bajatripper’s Toyota 4Runner, Neal John’s Tacoma, CG’s Dodge Dakota, and finally edm1’s giant 4WD van converted into a motorhome. We had the most concerns with the motorhome. Oscar at Santa Ynez said he wouldn’t get more than a couple kilometers in it and none of us could reach the mission, as the water was five feet deep in the bog!

The first obstacle on the drive was the deep gully crossing just 1.8 miles from Santa Ynez, but when the motorhome crossed it we gained new respect for Art’s abilities. A couple miles ahead those of us in the lead paused for the last ones (motorhome of Art and Dakota of Chris) to catch up. We waited quite a long time and believed it was the motorhome that must have had the problem. In reality, when they arrived it was Chris’ Dakota with a sidewall cut rear tire. He wondered if he should go back to Cataviña and get another tire for a spare and catch back up to us. We suggested he motor on with us and we would help him if he had another flat… (he didn’t)!







Bajatripper, Suly, Baja Angel

Neal Johns, HB Murphy

The gang arrived at the peninsular divide, 9.8 miles for Santa Ynez, where the Sea of Cortez and Punta Final can be seen. This makes a great lunch stop and rest for the really tough road ahead.






Baja Angel & David Kier

Group photo L to R: Bajatripper (Steve & Zully), CG (Chris), Baja Angel (Elizabeth), Kurt G, Neal Johns, Baja Bucko (Teddi), edm1 (Art & Maya), HB Murphy (Paul & Zoom).

The road ahead.



The next 4.3 miles to the mission are down several steep grades (including the infamous ‘Widowmaker’) and then into the bog, a water filled road in the oasis canyon beyond the Widowmaker. The bog was most difficult for the 4Runner as it was the only vehicle without a rear locker or traction control. Many of the other vehicles had winches and I saw Paul go into action and make a U turn in the bog to help out.



















Now, down the Widowmaker!









Through the bog…







We were all blown away by Art and his motorhome!



Paul had a very well equipped Tacoma and as soon as we heard a vehicle needed helping the bog, he headed back in for the rescue.





Making a U turn in the bog














The mission finally came into view with a steep rock drop-off that would catch the back bumper of my Tacoma and Art’s motorhome. Art also had a rear tire come off the bead after driving into a palm tree stump in the bog. He was able to repair it just before reaching the mission and joined us as we were setting up camp.













Neal and Maya

Paul, Zoom and Neal

Art, Kurt and Chris

Paul dealt with the gnats









It was an awesome day!

A grand bond fire was a great time to talk and have fun. Chris had an Australian didgeridoo for musical affect and after some of Art’s tequila I joined in with a pair of rocks (and some dance moves I don’t recall)! We all slept very well, I think…

[Edited on 6-7-2010 by David K]

capt. mike - 6-3-2010 at 11:17 AM

that is insanity....:o:wow:

David K - 6-3-2010 at 12:14 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by capt. mike
that is insanity....:o:wow:


No, that just good 'ol Baja fun! :yes:

The insanity happens the next day with exploding gasoline in a tire to pop it back on the rim and pulling Neal's camper back up the mountain all night and to 1 am+ when the tie rod end failed. :o:lol::light:;):cool:

[Edited on 6-3-2010 by David K]

Barry A. - 6-3-2010 at 12:33 PM

So David, who won this crazy off-shoot of the DAKAR race?

That is one TOUGH road! The bog would have stopped me----don't like "bogs" (or muck)------you guys better check all you diffs/trannys for water----the oil will appear clowdy if water contamination got in-----if so drain them and refill with fresh diff. oil, otherwise you will have problems down the road with corrosion and pitting of the gears, etc..

How much of a hike is it to the Mission site from the "bog"? i.e. how many miles?

Barry

David K - 6-3-2010 at 12:51 PM

The bog is less than a mile from the mission.

The top of Widowmaker is 1.1 miles from the mission, many park there and walk.

If we were alone, I don't think I would have gone into water that deep! Paul was lead truck going in, and we followed... neither of us had any problems or water in the cab... either direction.

It was great... I do need a new off road bumper! Paul recommends Armor Tech... bolts right on.

Barry A. - 6-3-2010 at 12:57 PM

Thanks, David---just a stroll.

Water in the cabs is no problem-------it's the diffs that are the problem. All diffs have vents, and if the vents are not elevated (which most are not) then water gets in the vents and into the diff oil.

Beautiful pics, David (and others)---------thank you so much for the vicarious expedition, and causing planning for the future. What a beautifu and enchanting place!!!

Barry

Cypress - 6-3-2010 at 02:03 PM

David K., Thanks. Wouldn't want to buy any of those vehicles off a used car lot.

dizzyspots - 6-3-2010 at 03:11 PM

when we cant be in Baja...it is a joy to travel vicariously thru your prose and pics

Thanks David

Mike& Sharon in Vail

Udo - 6-3-2010 at 03:15 PM

Art's motorhome is a beast, David.
He's got more balls :o than me to drive where he did with such a behemoth.:!:
For art, this was a big an adventure as the three guys from the Right coast that took their kayaks from San Felipe to Mulege. All Nomads need to read their account in the link provided.

Fabulous photos, David. (I know how long it took to transfer and download everything to Nomads, plus there is the fear of having to re-enter everything again).

bajalou - 6-3-2010 at 03:21 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Cypress
David K., Thanks. Wouldn't want to buy any of those vehicles off a used car lot.


I have a friend who used to travel Baja a lot in his younger days. Always in a rental. And more than once the doors wouldn't open when it was returned.

hbmurphy - 6-3-2010 at 06:01 PM

Videos - More to come...

Coming Down the Widow Maker

Edit: link fixed

[Edited on 6-4-2010 by hbmurphy]

DK

desertcpl - 6-3-2010 at 06:28 PM

thanks for sharing this with us all,, great job

Bob H - 6-3-2010 at 06:51 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Udo
Art's motorhome is a beast, David.
He's got more balls :o than me to drive where he did with such a behemoth.:!:
For art, this was a big an adventure as the three guys from the Right coast that took their kayaks from San Felipe to Mulege. All Nomads need to read their account in the link provided.

Fabulous photos, David. (I know how long it took to transfer and download everything to Nomads, plus there is the fear of having to re-enter everything again).


I agree with Udo ... everything he said.

WOW, great photos and what a rough road. I know for sure I would not do the bog, walking is good for me.

Thanks for a great trip report. I'm sure there will be many great responses to this trip report.

Bob H

Bob H - 6-3-2010 at 06:54 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by hbmurphy
Videos - More to come...

Coming Down the Widow Maker

Edit: link fixed

[Edited on 6-4-2010 by hbmurphy]


Loved the VIDEO.... great! Fantastic job!
Bob H

edm1 - 6-3-2010 at 06:55 PM

Paul, do you have a video of the motorhome coming out of the bog, after it got stuck there in 30 inches of water for 10 minutes (to pressurize the air tank) because I didn't have the lockers engaged, and after I locked all 6 wheels it literally jumped out of there a-blazing between the trees, and in between I don't know what else, for a few hundred feet? I didn't wanna slow down until I was completely out of the bog. I thought I was gonna flatten a few palm trees (2-foot trunks); instead a tree stump flattened my outer dually tire :-) LOL. That would have been an amazing video.


[Edited on 6-4-2010 by edm1]

hbmurphy - 6-3-2010 at 08:10 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by edm1
Paul, do you have a video of the motorhome coming out of the bog, after it got stuck there in 30 inches of water for 10 minutes (to pressurize the air tank) because I didn't have the lockers engaged, and after I locked all 6 wheels it literally jumped out of there a-blazing between the trees, and in between I don't know what else, for a few hundred feet? I didn't wanna slow down until I was completely out of the bog. I thought I was gonna flatten a few palm trees (2-foot trunks); instead a tree stump flattened my outer dually tire :-) LOL. That would have been an amazing video.


[Edited on 6-4-2010 by edm1]


:no:
Art, I am saddened to say, I do not have that video. And if I had a decent up-stream pipe, I would have more videos up. I will soon but not tonight.

Sorry :no:

hbmurphy - 6-3-2010 at 08:12 PM

Does anyone have an update on Neil? Did he need a third shipped down to him? Do we need to find one for him? I belong to a number of boards that would have peeps with a stock one.

geomike - 6-3-2010 at 08:35 PM

Great report DK One of the amazing things I recently found out is how a little adversity is good for the soul!

You need to let yourself out of The Box once in a while and Baja is such a great place to do so.

Thankfully the Mexican people tolerate "breakouts" a great deal more than we do North of the border.
Mike

Breakfast of Champions????

bajaguy - 6-3-2010 at 08:51 PM

Is Neil having a Pacifico with those Vanilla Wafers????

Baja12valve - 6-3-2010 at 09:37 PM

Very nice, makes me want to go back there again more than ever!

David K - 6-3-2010 at 09:46 PM

It is my pleasure amigos! I love to go to Baja and bring just a taste of the adventure back with me... Because that's all the photos and videos can do, they are not a replacement for actually being there!

I have not yet heard anything new regarding NEAL (note spelling :light: ), but he is in good hands!

I was away all afternoon and only just got home, haven't checked email yet... I will let you know of any news from Antonio, Neal or Marian!

By-the-way, PART 3 is still coming... bigger and BADDER than Part 2!!!!! :lol::cool:

[Edited on 6-4-2010 by David K]

Bajaboy - 6-3-2010 at 09:50 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by David K
It is my pleasure amigos! I love to go to Baja and bring just a taste of the adventure back with me... Because that's all the photos and videos can do, they are not a replacement for actually being there!

I have not yet heard anything new regarding NEAL (note spelling :light: ), but he is in good hands!

I was away all afternoon and only just got home, haven't checked email yet... I will let you know of any news from Antonio, Neal or Marian!

By-the-way, PART 3 is still coming... bigger and BADDER than Part 2!!!!! :lol::cool:

[Edited on 6-4-2010 by David K]


DK-

Which is it: NEAL or Neal.....:?:

Great report...keep me posted on the bumper...I need to fix mine or buy a new one.

zac

David K - 6-3-2010 at 09:52 PM

Both :spingrin:

hbmurphy - 6-3-2010 at 10:30 PM

Another Video - Going through the bog


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UBvjeiwTN48

Almost there...

BajaCactus - 6-3-2010 at 11:06 PM

Today (June 3rd) I just sent the last parts needed to repair Neal's Tacoma.

The mechanic in El Rosario making the repairs requested only the tie rods and some of the internal parts for the rear third member... according to him that is all that is needed.

The tie rods were easy to find and bought them yesterday. A friend of mine left very early today to Los Cabos and I asked him to deliver them... Neal received them before midday and I bet the mechanic has already installed them.

The rear third member was another story... I thought I had found one yesterday, but when I went to buy it I realized it was not the same as Neal's, similar but not the same... so I spent most of the day looking and making calls but I was unable to find another one... apparently that specific model is not to so easy to find.

So I changed strategies and after a few calls I found a place that specializes in repairing differentials and transmissions and today, late afternoon, I picked up the parts needed to repair Neal's unit (Ring gear, pinion, bearings, etc).

Once I had the parts in my possession, I pull some strings with the shipping company and was able to ship them a couple of hours ago to El Rosario... they should be receiving them tomorrow morning around 7:00am.

So, as you can see, we are almost there... most probably Neal will be ready to drive home tomorrow afternoon.

Now, whether or not he comes back is another story... our staff at BajaCactus says that he is enjoying Baja too much... :)... and rumor says he has been increasing his "WIW list" exponentially down there... jejeje

Well... there you have it guys... Do not worry, Neal should be back home soon.

BajaCactus

[Edited on 6-5-2010 by BajaCactus]

Parts.jpg - 49kB

David K - 6-4-2010 at 07:58 AM

Thank you for the update Antonio!

It is a great thing for the Baja travelers that you are such a good man and helpful to all us Nomads and non-Nomads, alike.

Viva BajaCactus! :bounce::bounce::bounce:

Neal's WiW harem is getting too big, the El Rosario men will be getting angry soon! Come on home Neal!!!

Bob H - 6-4-2010 at 08:04 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by hbmurphy
Another Video - Going through the bog


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UBvjeiwTN48


WWWWW OOOOOOOO WWWWW.... great video. Really like the sound effects (screaming, etc.)
FANTASTIC!

edm1 - 6-4-2010 at 08:17 AM

Paul, great video, x2 on Xom's sound effects!

Nothing's impossible/impassable; I'm now outfitting the mortorhome with helium ballo0n anchors on the roof :coolup:

[Edited on 6-4-2010 by edm1]

hbmurphy - 6-4-2010 at 08:23 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by Bob H
Quote:
Originally posted by hbmurphy
Another Video - Going through the bog


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UBvjeiwTN48


WWWWW OOOOOOOO WWWWW.... great video. Really like the sound effects (screaming, etc.)
FANTASTIC!


Yeah Zoom has a great attitude and is fun to wheel with! I have been in some insane stuff in the Sierras where we should have turned around (body damage to brand new truck) and she was saying "I thought you wanted to get to that fishing spot!" :lol:

More videos to come - with most everyone in them - Just need some good pipe - may have to go to my friends fiber optic pipe! Thanks for your patience and thanks to everyone for making it a great trip and enjoyable experience! - Just wish we had a couple more days to enjoy Baja - we can do recovery work anywhere! :spingrin:

David K - 6-4-2010 at 08:52 AM

The trip was EPIC :yes:

But then again, all Baja trips have a way of being epic... more so when traveled with other fine Baja Nomads and Tacoma World'ers!!

El Comadante Loco - 6-4-2010 at 10:34 AM

Great trip, great pics. Sorry I did not make it.. Will plan for next time...

hbmurphy - 6-4-2010 at 04:43 PM

Another video - sorry Zoom wasn't there to comment! ;-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=leeQQqaCjMg

edm1 - 6-4-2010 at 05:37 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Barry A.
So David, who won this crazy off-shoot of the DAKAR race?
Barry


My personal opinion is that the HERO of this epic adventure is CG/Chris. He's the one who towed Neal the last 8 miles, which when the obstacles - climbs and drops - are put together, are just as tough as the one mile Widowmaker. It's not a matter of winning but CG's and his truck's performance was just incredible. We owe this man the respect for a true 4-wheeler.

I also owe him a shackle, which I found attached to my tree saver strap :-).

BAJACAT - 6-4-2010 at 06:49 PM

That was a crazy trip, Im still kicking my self for not be able to make it, great story guys... will be hearing this one for ever...thats a perfect example in how a bad trip can become a great bonding experince with friends in Baja,, my day will come to make this trip... thanks for the report and video and everything guys,,,, go NEALLLLLLLLL, i will take care of your chickens untill you come back...

Udo - 6-4-2010 at 06:51 PM

Keep up with the videos...

Love the commentary!

CG - 6-4-2010 at 08:57 PM

Here are some of my pictures from the trip. I had a great time and was happy to help out and spend time with such great people!

Neal actually drove himself 90% of the way out the second day after replacing the tie rod end. I only had to strap him up a few rough spots.

Big thanks go to Paul and Art for all the hard work they did & Neal impressed everyone with his energy and spirit. Special thanks goes to BajaCatus for the great rooms and parts help!

I'm happy I was able to get my truck built up in time for this run. I had just kind of route in mind when I did the mods. It took some time to get used to wheeling with smaller tires again...my last Jeep had 37" tires and my old Explorer had 40's. I'm not really loyal to any brand of car, mostly cause I can break pretty much anything out there:yes: I wanted a mid-size truck with a V8 for family adventures and occasional towing and the dodge works great!

My truck was the one that got water in it. I was towing Neal through the mud and got bogged down, I had to open the doors to get the winch stuff out & a bunch of water got in. I was nervous about it getting into the engine, but I got lucky there.

Next time I'll remember to wear jeans in the desert, my legs are all scratched up cause I was dressed in shorts. I had to pull a nasty chunk of cactus out of my leg with some pliers! I need to remember not to air down my tires too much for mixed trails. Low air pressure works great for the beach and extreme rock climbing, but the bulging sidewalls can get cut easily in the desert.

I'm ready to go wheelin' with any of you guys again!

Stopped at the beach on the way down:







The trail in:













At the Mission:











Some of the carnage!:






David K - 6-4-2010 at 09:27 PM

Thanks for posting the photos Chris...

I still need to write Part 3 (Sunday) of this trip report... with the photos for Sunday...

Please be patient Nomads... I have some busy days...

All done...

BajaCactus - 6-4-2010 at 10:25 PM

Neal arrived at BajaCactus at 6:27pm on June 4th, driving his Tacoma as if nothing ever happened. All repairs to his Tacoma have been complete.

Neal told our staff he was leaving tomorrow Saturday, June 5th, very early.

Have a safe, nice trip back home my friend...!!!

BajaCactus

David K - 6-5-2010 at 06:25 AM

Wonderful news... Thank you Antonio and the people of El Rosario and Baja Cactus, "where Baja is much more than a dream"!

edm1 - 6-5-2010 at 06:53 AM

" All Done".

That is great!

I can't wait for Neal to post so we all can read his own recount of the ordeal. I'm sure there'll be a lot of humor in it but nonetheless will offer some lessons learned too.

hbmurphy - 6-5-2010 at 07:45 AM


David K - 6-5-2010 at 08:39 AM

This TRIP REPORT CONTINUES with PART 3, HERE: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=46087

David K - 6-7-2010 at 06:50 PM

Paul, looking forward to more pics and videos of the SILVER Tacoma in action! ;):cool::spingrin:

hbmurphy - 6-7-2010 at 09:14 PM

Well... here it is!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slqyAwt6CP8

BAJACAT - 6-7-2010 at 09:24 PM

That looks like fun,,,

David K - 6-7-2010 at 10:18 PM

Great video Paul! That motorhome is 'da beast!

Bob H - 6-8-2010 at 07:41 AM

Great video of coming down the Widow Maker!
Bob H

shari - 6-8-2010 at 10:30 AM

man oh man....what an outrageous journey you all had. Please tell Zoom I LOVED her screaming...made me feel better about my copiloting squeals, grunts, oooofs etc...she's a trooper that one!!! Loved all the video and photos...you guys are crazy!!!

hbmurphy - 6-8-2010 at 10:37 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by shari
man oh man....what an outrageous journey you all had. Please tell Zoom I LOVED her screaming...made me feel better about my copiloting squeals, grunts, oooofs etc...she's a trooper that one!!! Loved all the video and photos...you guys are crazy!!!


Yeah baby! You've got to love her!

The time I knew it was okay to take her was when I attempted the Swamp Lake Trail in the Sierra National Park. It was nuts!!! 10x worse than any of this stuff - you really need a short wheelbase and 40" tires.

We didn't have a winch so we had to Hi-Lift our way out of problems! - After we had already gone too far, I asked her, "Do you think we should turn around?"

She looked at me and said, "I thought you wanted to fish Hatch Lake?"

Being that we sere solo and no winch, we turned around!

:lol:

BajaRoadrunner - 6-8-2010 at 10:53 AM

Hi guys, nice trip, epic adventure indeed :yes:

I couldn't make it this time and will not be able to go off roading (house remodeling) in 1 or 2 more months but September sounds perfect for my yearly trip to MSM.

You may not have the energy to go again so soon but for the first timers of this adventure I have something to say: If you didn't go to "la poza de la escuadra" you need to repeat this trip :yes:

Great pics everybody, congratulations!

CG: true off roader not leaving anybody behind. You tha man!

David K - 6-8-2010 at 10:22 PM

BajaRoadrunner, I Loved you YouTube videos of the Widowmaker and beyond! I posted links to thel over on Tacoma World to 'bait' some of those 'Taco' owners to come to Baja! You were brave to go alone (no other vehicles) in that Jeep Cherokee!

We were lucky that if just one Tacoma World member joined us, it was the 'great' HB Murphy... and we were lucky that he did! Paul (hbmurphy) gets the 'Alpha Male' award from me for his skills and leadership in getting everyone through so well. We Nomads are fortunate to have Paul with us and that he has joined Baja Nomad, as well!