Mexicali to La Paz, off the beaten path camping

We love traveling slow on the long drive south and venturing down primitive roads, seeing what there is to find. But for years we have selfishly kept favorite camp spots a close held secret, not wanting them to get 'discovered'. Over the past few years though several spots have become inaccessible, fenced off by big landowners, so before they are all gone I figured I might as well share some of them. And besides, the people who would take the effort to get to these spots are probably people I would want to meet anyway. The camp spots vary from year to year depending on where we are in the late afternoon. The criteria for a good camp spot are that it has to be invisible from the main road and away from any kind of civilization but not so far as to make getting there a trip in itself. Bonuses are ocean front, good surf, running water, natural beauty, canyons to explore etc. These are this year`s crop. None are suitable for travel trailers or RVs.
For the past five years we have crossed at Mexicali and can never see using Mex 1 again. At the east crossing there has never been even one person in front of us at the border, immigracion or the bank. There is ample parking for a truck and trailer and it`s easy to get out of town from there. Once out of Mexicali it is ridiculous how few cars are on the road all the way to Hwy 1 at Laguna Chapala. There are no cities to pass through, no trucks or buses, and no hills or curves until the last 35 miles. Those 35 miles of rough dirt road are the savior of this piece of country. Once that section is paved it will be the most crowded piece of highway in Baja. It`s a slow 35 miles, four hours towing our cargo trailer but we have time. All the tires are aired down to 18 psi and if we need to crawl at 1mph to make it safe and comfortable so be it. Instead of counting the hours or miles we measured time by the number of This American Life podcasts it took to get there (3).
Our first night was spent at an amazing little hidden canyon a couple miles before Coco`s. It`s on the left, an almost invisible track that immediately turns a corner and hides you from the road. The canyon opens up with plenty of flat space and almost enough room to turn around in. A short hike up the canyon reveals rock work very similar to Joshua Tree National Park on a smaller scale and with that spectacular Baja desert vegetation.





The next day starts with the slow grind out to HIghway One at Laguna Chapala. A local in a pick up truck flew by us in a hurry to who knows where and paid the price a few miles down the road with a mangled suspension. We were barely able to squeak by on the steepest section of road of the whole 40 miles and then gave him a ride the last eight miles to the llantera at the intersection with Mex 1. The mechanic there obviously was used to this scenario and said (in perfect English) that he would take care of him. We aired up and continued on.
Night two we always spend at the lighthouse at Laguna Manuela. It`s not exactly a secret spot but because it entails a normally washboarded 11 mile drive in (this year was freshly graded and smooth sailing) and requires 4wd to get up the sandy road to the lighthouse we have never encountered another camper there. And the fog, wind and copious nightime dew may deter less than hardy campers. In my opinion it is one of the most spectacular ocean views on the coast. I will venture a guess that one can see more coastline from there than from any other spot in Baja. From G. Negro out to Punta Eugenia on the south, Isla Cedros to the west and north up to who knows where on a clear day. Punta San Carlos maybe? The vegetation is very stark but the shoreline makes up for it with a white sandy beach then a dark volcanic rocky point repeated a dozen times. And the surf ain`t bad either.











Day three starts out with airing up again at the Pemex in Jesus Villa Maria and heading to Loreto. There are many hidden gems along the beach south of town (but getting fewer every year) and this year`s choice was below the large mystery rock structure at KM 89. It`s only a half mile off the road but a rocky 200 yard section makes it a 10 minute drive and rules out any RVs venturing in. Total seclusion with the islands on one side, the Giganta on the other and the sea 10 feet from camp. This spot won`t be around for too much longer.










Day four is an easy drive to La Paz with a mandatory stop at either Tacos Hermanos Gonzalez or Los Molcahetes right as you enter civilization on the outskirts of La Paz. Hermanos Gonzales is the best taco stand around run by brother and sister Geronimo and Geronima (they say their father was a little crazy). Killer ceviche and fresh squeezed OJ too! Los Molcahetes, a few hundred yards down the road on the left, is a sit down place with some amazing and original Jalisco dishes at cheap prices and wonderful friendly service. Then to La Ventana for a couple of months of windsurfing before heading home and finding new spots.
Get out and explore!






[Edited on 3-6-2014 by BajaNomad]

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Originally posted by philodog

Great trip report Philodog! Btw the picture sizing stumped me for a while also ... It actually doesn't ask you, you must click the 'cog' in the top right corner when uploading

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Originally posted by soulpatch Awesome. Pics look fine here! Too fine.... darn it!

Great trip report, philodog.

I was particularly glad to hear that the Laguna Manuela area you reported on is still 'off-the-beaten-path'. It was a favorite beachcombing and camping spot for many of us from Mulege in the 70's and 80's. We drove in the washboard trail from Jesus Maria very slowly...taking care not to break any dishes in the various camping rigs. As I remember, we were always the only ones camping in the area. Took some nice sidetrips up to Tomatal for albalone.

I took this gruesome photo which shows the lagoon was an active shark fishery at that time. Naturally, that fishery was not self-sustaining.



We used to roam the long beach you spoke of...Playa Largo...and surf-fish. Caught some large white sea bass. I recall one morning fishing there and getting my dune-buggy stuck near the water's edge at low-tide. I was bottomed out and about to toast the buggy 'adios' with a Pacifico when a truckload of locals came by on the coast trail and literally picked that buggy up and put it back on the hardpack. We invited the crew to dinner that night. What a day! What fine folks!




Later, an old amigo, Riley, and his family moved there from Conception Bay and settled near that lighthouse. Known to the locals as Perico Blanco, white parrot, because of his startling hair style. Regretted hearing from the Pemex folks that his wife had passed and he went back to the states.

Thanks for the memories, philodog, and please keep up your informative & valuable trip reports.

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Originally posted by Pompano I took this gruesome photo which shows the lagoon was an active shark fishery at that time. Naturally, that fishery was not self-sustaining.

We camped at Laguna Manuela in the early 80's. First time with a group headed by Tom and Shirley Miller as part of their Mexico West Travel Club. Once we discovered the surf fishing gold mine on the long beach north of the mountain, we returned and camped there instead of the lagoon.

In October of 1984, I went up to the lighthouse and took panorama photos of Laguna Manuela... nobody was up there then.

Thanks for that info, TW. Sounds like the same people who camped at Coyote Bay for a few seasons in the late 80's. Charming Irishman and a unique character... who once flew flights in and out of Laos in the 70's (Air America). Here's a pic from those camping days at Coyote Beach.



Sorry for this slight hijack, philodgo....but it's nostalgia about Luguna Manuela. All the folks in this photo enjoyed camping there at one time or another.