BajaNomad - First time Trip Questions

First time Trip Questions

Matt Drown - 4-27-2015 at 07:38 AM

Greetings, first post, so pardon the newbie questions.

I'll be driving down to Todos Santos in a couple weeks, coming down from San Jose CA, and looking for any route recommendations regarding food and lodging on the way down (mostly in the Baja side).

Planning an arrival of the 12th in Todos Santos, but departure date is flexible, so can do the trip down in 2-5 days depending on where I stop and explore.

Have a stock 4wd '99 4runner, if it matters. I drove rental cars in Mexico before (cancun-tulum-chichen itza), but haven't driven across the border. I know I need Mexican insurance.

Staying in Todos Santos for at least a couple weeks to explore around that area once I get down there.

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!

[Edited on 4-27-2015 by Matt Drown]

4x4abc - 4-27-2015 at 09:49 AM

Matt,

get an AAA map, emergency Valium and go.
Gas stations, food joints and super markets are clearly visible. Some take credit cards, many won't. Drive and enjoy!
Don't drive too fast, don't drive at night.
Follow MEX1
Watch out for unmarked topes
watch out for giant potholes

San Jose to Todos Santos is about a 28 hour drive.
Stress free: San Jose - San Diego
San Diego - Catavina (Hotel Desert inn)
Catavina - Loreto (Hotel Oasis)
Loreto - Todos Santos

Matt Drown - 4-27-2015 at 10:18 AM

Will look for a printed map as a backup (was planning on offline gps maps), I assume I can pick up the Valium in TJ

San Diego to Todos Santos is about 7-8 hours a day depending on number of stops we make for snacks?

Thanks for the hotel recommendations, looking them up now. Any food suggestions for the ride? (Happy to try things)

Bob53 - 4-27-2015 at 10:30 AM

Make sure you get a tourist card (FMM) at the Mexican immigration office at the border.

Bring your passports.

4x4abc - 4-27-2015 at 10:45 AM

make reservations for Desert Inn Catavina - it's the only hotel within a 100+ miles radius
Loreto has plenty of hotels to chose from - Oasis is the most charming
paradise breakfast location

4x4abc - 4-27-2015 at 10:50 AM

alternative, more relaxing route:
go through Palm Springs and Mexicali (hotel in Calexico)
spend the night at Alfonsinas
25 miles of rough dirt after Alfonsinas though
drive slow or you'll get a flat

much more enchanting route than TJ - Catavina

BajaBean - 4-27-2015 at 11:02 AM

Or you can make Guerrero Negro in about 12 hours from the border on Mex 1. Stop at El Rosario and have lunch at Mama Espinoza's.

This is providing the demonstrations at San Quintin are over.

Be sure to gas up at the Pemex next to Mama's. No gas for a looooong way except maybe along the road out of 50 gal drums.

DO NOT DRIVE AT NIGHT. I left G.N. before sunrise and almost had a steer riding with me on the hood.

güéribo - 4-27-2015 at 11:27 AM

Welcome! Fun awaits.

If you won't be stopping and exploring much on the way down, I echo 4x4abc's plan:

San Diego - Catavina (Hotel Desert inn)
Cataviña - Loreto (Hotel Oasis)
Loreto - Todos Santos

Hotel Oasis in Loreto is truly great for breakfast. We have enjoyed staying at Rick and Jill's (Las Cabañas de Loreto) . . . they are truly hospitable and can guide you toward all the fun stuff. And you can still walk over and eat at Hotel Oasis, enjoying the view of the sea.

elgatoloco - 4-27-2015 at 12:06 PM

We like to use pesos so we call our bank and let them know we will be travelling and then we hit an ATM take the max out right after we cross the border. Then refill regular as needed. We will use credit cards at hotels so we also let our credit card know we are traveling to Baja. I would take my time getting down, lots to explore on the way.

San Diego - BOLA
BOLA - San Ignacio
San Ignacio - Mulege
Mulege - Loreto
Loreto - Todos Santos
Todos day trips to:
La Paz
San Jose del Cabo
and more!
:saint:

Alan - 4-27-2015 at 12:34 PM

All good advice so far. AAA is one of the best maps for Baja as it provides distances between towns and gas stations as well as details for larger cities such as TJ, Ensenada, La Paz, etc. From San Diego the trip to Todos Santos can easily be made in 2 days and commonly is by most travelers. However since this is your first trip SOB keep in mind the trip is just as good as the destination. It's a beautiful drive, take time and enjoy it.

You already know the need for insurance which can also be purchased at any off the last few of ramps of I-5 such as Dairy Mart Rd. With insurance coverage in hand get back on I-5 and head for the border. The highway will take a sharp right at the border. Be in the right lane. The road will then turn left to cross but go straight to the Declaracion area. Pull inside the fence and park. Grab your passports and head into the large blue bldg. and go to the INM office and get your tourist visas. Sometimes you pay there, sometimes he sends you next door to the bank. (about $26 USD each). If they send you to the bank, return to INM with receipt and get your Visa and Passport stamped.

Now go ahead and get back in your car and cross. they will ask you to push a button on a stoplight. If green you're good to go. If red, they may want to inspect your vehicle. Once you are across just follow the signs for Cuota (toll road). This will get you on Mex 1 to Ensenada. There are 3 toll booths at about $2.50 ea. The will accept pesos or dollars but not a combination of both.

When you get to Ensenada just follow the signs for the Tourist Zone and it will drop you down on the malecon. This is where the AAA map comes in handy to know when to turn left.

Once you get south of Maneadero you can start to kick back as the traffic thins significantly as you head toward the vineyard area of Santo Tomas. With grapevines, oak trees and rolling hills it is reminiscent of Napa.

The next big town is San Quintin. Depending on time of year there can be many fruit and veggie stands but no matter how good it looks the're likely to be confiscated when you cross into Baja Sur just above GN.

I typically cross the border at 0600 which usually gets me to El Rosario right about time for Chile Rellenos and a cerveza at Mama Espinosa's (right on the curve in town) but stop at the Pemex just before then and fill up. The next available fuel is a long ways away.

Taking your time I'd stop at the Hotel Missiones in Catavina and/or take a side trip into Bahia de Los Angeles. I highly recommend this side trip for first time vistors. It's about 40 miles in and they now have gas and 24 hr. electricity. Lots of hotel and camping recommendations on this forum so I won't bother.

Unless I am showing Baja to someone I just push on through to Guererro Negro (about 12 hrs. south of the border) before calling it a day.

Leaving GN early the next morning you now head east towards the Sea of Cortez. Take a sort side trip into the palm oasis at San Ignacio, well worth the 30 minutes it takes.

Next is Santa Rosalia. Take a right turn into town for a must stop at the El Boleo Bakery.

Your next stop should be Mulege (another palm oasis). I often make a stop at the La Serenidad for lunch. About 10-15 miles south of Mulege you will enter some small hills but have your camera ready because around one of the curves it will open to the Bahia Concepcion.

If you didn't stop in Mulege you can catch lunch at Playa Buenaventura right on the bay.

The next town is Loreto and definitely worth a drive through especially along the malecon.

From Loreto you will head back west to the Pacific side. Drive slow and stop at every stop sign in Ciudad Constitucion then back across the peninsula to La Paz. Since your destination is Todos Santos I would head there and just make a day trip back to La Paz so follow the signs for the Libremiento. Turn right on Forjadoras and right again when you reach Mex 19.

Driving tips:
Oncoming cars flashing headlight - Potenial hazard ahead. Typically livestock near the road but it can be anything so heads up.

Left turn blinker - They are going to make a left turn or it more commonly means it is safe to pass. Your call.

Stop signs in La Paz seem to be only be a suggestion. Make sure the car behind you understands you are going to stop.

EVERY town or even a small collection of bldgs. has topes - Slow down!

StuckSucks - 4-27-2015 at 01:17 PM

For hormonal purposes. A photo sphere I shot on the beach south of Todos Santos a week ago:

https://www.google.com/maps/views/u/0/view/11596559755849069...

David K - 4-27-2015 at 04:30 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Matt Drown

...

San Diego to Todos Santos is about 7-8 hours a day depending on number of stops we make for snacks?...

T

"a day" ?

It is a 3 day drive (normal driving)... are you asking how many hours per day, each day? Maybe 9.3... as Harald said: "San Jose to Todos Santos is about a 28 hour drive."

Matt Drown - 4-27-2015 at 06:30 PM

Yea, I realized I phrased my time question wrong. 3 days drive from San Diego to Todos Santos, with about 8 hours of driving each day. My default of miles to time works in the US, but I know it's not guaranteed to be true once I hit Mexico due to road conditions. (I'm used to doing 500-600 miles a day)

Thanks a lot to everyone for the recommendations! Will start looking at the departure day and see how many days we want to take going down, I'm pretty confident we aren't going to do the 12 hour Guererro Negro drive, just 3 days or 5. We have a place reserved in Todos Santos for 4 weeks to relax, so a number of day trips will be planned.

I am looking forward to the Chile Rellenos.....

Info

bajaguy - 4-27-2015 at 06:52 PM

Stop at the border and get your FMM at Mexican Immigration (INM)

Insurance - Buy it on-line from Bajabound at the top of this page. Geoff is a great guy and a Baja Nomad supporter

Ensenada - Just follow the tourist signs, proceed along the Costero (main street). There is some construction, but no problems. As you get south of the main business district past the Navy base (on your right), continue along the beach to the "T" intersection.....make a left and proceed to Reforma (Hwy 1). A right turn and you are on your way.

If you need supplies or cash, stop at the Ensenada COSTCO or Commercial Mexicana, shop and/or hit the ATM.

Tell your bank or financial institution that you will be in Mexico (Baja) so they don't lock up your credit or debit card

When you get to El Rosario, stop at the PEMEX and fill up.....you might also want to leave a donation for the all-volunteer Desert Hawks ambulance service at the PEMEX....adds to your karma account.

Drive slow, enjoy the sights, have fun

[Edited on 4-28-2015 by bajaguy]

GPS, Caution!

AKgringo - 4-27-2015 at 08:02 PM

I use an old school automotive GPS, which is helpful for getting through towns and to keep track of miles and such.
I have used Garmin, and TomTom, and even with the latest updates available there are many errors due to changed traffic patterns, new roads, one way streets and other old information (such as border crossing access).
My personal preference is the TomTom, but I am always on guard, and check my AAA map for confirmation on some roads.

BajaBlanca - 4-28-2015 at 04:52 AM

Alan - what a comprehensive report -very detailed and certainly covers every aspect for a first timer.

The GPS notes are spot on - Mexico never seems to be correct on it!

pauldavidmena - 4-28-2015 at 07:04 AM

Quote: Originally posted by StuckSucks

For hormonal purposes. A photo sphere I shot on the beach south of Todos Santos a week ago:

https://www.google.com/maps/views/u/0/view/11596559755849069...

Thanks for posting this. It's done wonders for my blood pressure.

Floatflyer - 4-28-2015 at 07:06 AM

What is the appeal for stopping in Catavina? We have stayed there several times and find it expensive with food that is not all that great. Plan your trip to avoid this marginal place. AND the only gasoline is from a barrel if there is any at all!

4x4abc - 4-28-2015 at 07:55 AM

I like Catavina because it offers a super quiet hotel away from any busy, noisy town. Yes, hotel Mision Catavina is too expensive (about $80 now?) and the food is touristy. But no other place on your way south gives you the same Baja impression of solitude and quietness. A first glimpse of what Baja offers away from pavement and towns.
No WiFi in the rooms - perfect! WiFi in the lobby suffices. Love the Hacienda style, court yard centered design of the hotel.

I like hotel Desert Inn in San Ignacio for similar reasons. Same building style. It's just out of town and extra quiet. All you ever hear is birds singing. WiFi only in the lobby, not even in the restaurant. People even talk to people over at the next table, because nobody is distracted by important (kitty video) mails. The new hotel close to the mission is just that - new. WiFi but no charme.

All, who have traveled Baja more than once get gas in San Quintin or El Rosario to make it to the next gas station in Jesus Maria or Guerrero Negro (all modern cars/trucks can do that distance with ease). Only first time travelers run into the need of getting gas from the drum in Catavina or Punta Prieta - but hey, at least they have a chance to get gas at all.

David K - 4-28-2015 at 10:29 AM

Quote: Originally posted by 4x4abc

I like Catavina because it offers a super quiet hotel away from any busy, noisy town. Yes, hotel Mision Catavina is too expensive (about $80 now?) and the food is touristy. But no other place on your way south gives you the same Baja impression of solitude and quietness. A first glimpse of what Baja offers away from pavement and towns.
No WiFi in the rooms - perfect! WiFi in the lobby suffices. Love the Hacienda style, court yard centered design of the hotel.

I like hotel Desert Inn in San Ignacio for similar reasons. Same building style. It's just out of town and extra quiet. All you ever hear is birds singing. WiFi only in the lobby, not even in the restaurant. People even talk to people over at the next table, because nobody is distracted by important (kitty video) mails. The new hotel close to the mission is just that - new. WiFi but no charme.

All, who have traveled Baja more than once get gas in San Quintin or El Rosario to make it to the next gas station in Jesus Maria or Guerrero Negro (all modern cars/trucks can do that distance with ease). Only first time travelers run into the need of getting gas from the drum in Catavina or Punta Prieta - but hey, at least they have a chance to get gas at all.

Interesting perspective... as you may know, those two hotels (Cataviña and San Ignacio) were associated with the new highway construction and opened in 1974 to serve the new, non-camping travelers coming down Mexico 1. The hotels were then owned by the El Presidente chain and were built along with the 'paradors' (rest stops/ tourist facilities/ trailer parks), except at Punta Prieta which only had the parador (at the L.A. Bay junction).

1) San Quintin (actually on the outer Santa Maria bay just south of San Quintin). The parador was on Hwy. 1, and the hotel was a couple of paved miles behind it, on the big beach. When Hwy. 1 was moved due to repeated flood destruction nearby, the parador closed up, but the hotel remains to this day and now called Hotel Mision Santa Maria.

2) Cataviña (Santa Ines/Cataviña originally). Parador on one side of the highway and the hotel is on the other. A new town grew from the parador and hotel complex in the middle of the desert. The gas station failed to stay open (bad business operations) and the parador (rest stop, cafeteria, showers, bathrooms) went out of business as well (the trailer park just north lasted longer). The hotel continues to thrive and is now called Hotel Mision Cataviña.

3) Parador Punta Prieta, located 8.4 miles north of the town of Punta Prieta at the junction of the new road east to Bahia de los Angeles. No hotel was built here, but the trailer park, gas station, parador rest stop/cafeteria/showers/rest rooms remained open for many years. Once the gas station failed to stay in business, the parador closed... the trailer park stayed open sometime longer. Like Cataviña, there was no local population other than the small village 8.4 miles away. Lack of nearby employee sources and banking both contribute to failure.

4) Parador Paralleo 28º (Guerrero Negro), located 4 highway miles from the town of Guerrero Negro (of 1974) on the border between the two states of Baja California, perhaps the most elegant of the new Highway One El Presidente hotels was built here, across from the giant eagle monument. The trailer park was next door, and the gas station and parador were on the opposite side of the eagle. As Guerrero Negro grew and services for tourists would put the parador out of business.

5) San Ignacio. The parador and gas station were located on the highway and the beautiful hotel was located a mile south on the paved road into town. This was the only parador gas station to remain open since 1974.

There was also a mini-parador at San Agustin (between El Rosario and Cataviña) with a gas station and a trailer park. The gas station failed early on, but the trailer park has been open or at leased signed open.

I took lots of photos of the paradors and El Presidentes on my book research trips in 1974, but they are on slides...

VegasNick - 4-28-2015 at 11:01 AM

Quote: Originally posted by StuckSucks

For hormonal purposes. A photo sphere I shot on the beach south of Todos Santos a week ago:

https://www.google.com/maps/views/u/0/view/11596559755849069...

The only thing missing there is me camping! NICE!

Bajahowodd - 4-29-2015 at 05:00 PM

If you stay in San Quintin the first night, you can easily make it on to San Ignacio, or even Santa Rosalia the next day. You can make La paz after that, and have a short drive to Todos.

Matt Drown - 5-15-2015 at 08:11 AM

So we made it. Left Chula Vista on sunday, and crossed the border. Got the red-light on customs and had our truck x-rayed. Missed the whole stop at the declaration office to get a tourist visa thing, and didn't realize that no one looks at your passport (no immigration). In hindsight, the advice given was pretty clear, so this is all our fault.

So we drove to Ensenada as were told we could get a visa at the port. Except it was sunday, so the office was closed.

So a night at the fancy Hotel Coral.

We drove through to Catavina the next day, stopping at Espinoza's (great food, I owe someone a beer for that recommendation). Catavina Mission hotel was almost empty (just us, another couple, and a group from Toyo Tires). Food in the mission was not as good as espinoza's. Room and location was very nice though, serene.

Catavina to Loreto the next day, longer day due to the previous day being a partial. We just ate junk food, and had dinner in Loreto, stayed at Hotel Desert Inn (we were the only guests). Breakfast there was good (nice hot salsa). Hotel was nice and comfy, on the beach is fun, we may head here after Todos Santos to explore around.

Loreto to Todos Santos on the last day, thought it was going to be long, but we were done in 4.5 hours.

Speeding? In cities/towns I kept the speed not much over the posted value. In the open areas I was normally doing close to MPH where the posted speed was KPH. IE, 80KPH max meant I was driving at 80MPH (I didn't do this in the La Paz 110KPH areas). This seemed to be about normal for what people were driving in the area, any issues with this for future driving?

We had 3 military checkpoints from Ensenda to Catavina, 3 more from Catavina to Loreto (plus a $20 peso agriculture spray), and then another agricultre inspection on the way into LaPaz ,and a police checkpoint leaving LaPaz with nothing other than a nod to the local police. (For future searches, these checkpoints feels like US DUI checkpoints, where are you from, where are you going, are you a tourist. One stop had us get out of the car as he poked at our gear in the car, nothing major. And no one had any big issues with our lack of spanish.)

So we made it to Todos Santos, and finally unpacked. We are staying here until 2nd week of June, in the outskirts of town in an AirBNB apartment. Just settling in now, figuring out beach options, and other things to do.

Any suggestions on food in this area? We are cooking in our apartment, but going out now and then also.

And finally, wanted to thank everyone for suggestions and help. It was useful to have the tidbits while driving down to make things easier.

[Edited on 5-15-2015 by Matt Drown]

David K - 5-15-2015 at 08:28 AM

Hi Matt, glad you got there safe and sound! Thanks for the road report. It is good to hear of good food at Mama Espinoza's Place in El Rosario. We don't always eat there, but have never had a bad meal when we do.

Did anyone ask specifically for you FMM tourist cards south of Ensenada? In the past, right near the Ag Spray Booth, Guerrero Negro, was a tourist card check (INM officer).

Have fun in Baja... and leave Todos Santos early enough to explore some sites on the drive back north... San Ignacio town plaza/ mission, less than 2 paved miles south of Hwy. 1 and Bahia de los Angeles (40 paved miles east of Hwy. 1) is one of the really nice side trips.

East Cape?

AKgringo - 5-15-2015 at 09:12 AM

Glad to hear things went smoothly, it usually does. It would be wrong to drive that far south without a trip to the East Cape, it is different enough from the Pacific side that you need to see it.
You could make a day trip driving the main highway looping around back to Todo Santos, but since you are driving a 4runner, I would find the dirt road south of Pecadero and make an overnighter some where on the Cortez side.
Lots of info on older threads on this site. Los Barriles is one of my favorite communities, and Cabo Pulmo (camping) is pretty special as well. I don't know if rooms are available in Pulmo.

Matt Drown - 5-15-2015 at 09:50 AM

We actually don't really have any solid plans right now past the stay in Todos Santos. We are exploring life as nomads right now, and just traveling. Some brief info at http://www.2ontherun.com/ we just started off.

No checking of our tourist card anywhere. We got one because the current plan is to take the ferry from LaPaz over the mainland in a bit and drive across Mexico to the gulf coast. We appear to have to do paperwork for a temporary car import still if we do that.

Before doing that we may spend a couple weeks on the east side, for a different beach experience. Just settling in for a bit right now, need to get a tan

wilderone - 5-15-2015 at 11:14 AM

Sign up for the Baja Western Onion - an online (email) weekly newsletter mostly about Todos Santos. Tells you where the music events are, restaurants, etc.

mtgoat666 - 5-15-2015 at 11:24 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Matt Drown

Speeding? In cities/towns I kept the speed not much over the posted value. In the open areas I was normally doing close to MPH where the posted speed was KPH. IE, 80KPH max meant I was driving at 80MPH (I didn't do this in the La Paz 110KPH areas). This seemed to be about normal for what people were driving in the area, any issues with this for future driving?

after many years driving hwy 1 i have found 65-70 mph to be the most comfortable max speed. 80 mph is pushing it, except for a few of the improved section where paved shoulders are wider. 80 mph on the narrow pavement requires too much concentration, makes me fatigue more quickly.

i always have in the back of my mind that there generally are no reliable emergency responders in either remote or urban areas of mexico. you have an accident, you can't count on much competent help. it would be rudimentary first aid at best.

Matt Drown - 5-15-2015 at 01:30 PM

I found 65-70 good, but large stretches of 80 were fine if you were paying attention, and concentrating, yes. Also reduced speed a bit when I was on the winding roads (signs about turns were optional, and usually inconsistent with level of turn) or on roads with almost no shoulder. But yea, it sounds like the posted limits are a bit insane, a large stretch into and out of catavina are posted as 35mph.

Signed up for western onion lists, of course the website last update was Feb 2014....

jbcoug - 5-15-2015 at 05:18 PM

Matt,
Recheck the Baja Western Onion, I get a new edition almost every week. You might also check out the Baja Pony Express out of Los Barriles, it comes out every couple of days.

[Edited on 5-16-2015 by jbcoug]

Matt Drown - 7-2-2015 at 05:35 PM

Wanted to come back and say thanks again to everyone who helped out. I managed to get the West Onion worked out, and used it to check out things while we moved around in Baja.

I am now in Guanajuato, and it's COLD and humid compared to Baja, very inconvenient...

Our blog has been updated with information about our times spent in Baja, up to our experience on taking our truck over to Mazatland via the BajaFerries. Figured I would post it the link up here.

http://www.2ontherun.com/
and https://www.facebook.com/2ontherun

David K - 7-2-2015 at 05:47 PM

Thank you Matt... very much appreciate your reporting back here! Have a wonderful time on the mainland!

Bajahowodd - 7-4-2015 at 04:20 PM

Quote: Originally posted by mtgoat666

Quote: Originally posted by Matt Drown

I have to admit that on those long, flat stretches South of Catavina, I have not been able to keep myself below 90, and sometimes 100. I figure there are other Nomads who do likewise.

wilderone - 7-5-2015 at 08:07 AM

"now in Guanajuato" ??
Are you near Acambaro (just a bit northeast of Morelia)? Check out the Julsrud museum - thousands of one-of-a-kind figurines - some depicting dinosaurs - from over 4000 yrs ago (lends to a suggestion that humans lived with dinos - so the theory goes). Also, there is a famous blue bread in Acambaro. You are also in the Ruta de la Salud (health route) - 400 hotsprings near Morelia: Reino de Atzimba in Zinapecuro; Cointzio; Huandacareo; El Ejido in the Tenencia de Morelos. A model community, Alternare, has two thermal pools, and a white morpho butterfly near the river. (I've done all this research years ago for a trip on My List). Report back on your travels.