edm1
Senior Nomad
Posts: 568
Registered: 8-23-2006
Location: Oak Hills, Ca
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Solo and First-time Baja Norte Trip - Part 4
Intro: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=25757
Part 1: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=25799
Part 2A: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=25839
Part 2B: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=25844
Part 3: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=26053
Is there a dead body in there?
It's exactly 7:00PM as I drive through the gates of Coco's Corner. Coco is alone and has just
finished his dinner; he's getting ready to drink his milk. I introduce myself and state that I need
to spend the night in his "corner" and continue my drive early in the morning. Do you want a drink,
he asks. A Pacifico, please, and the famous Coco's stickers, I answer. He hands me a Pacifico in a
can and a bunch of Coco's Corner stickers. US$5 (includes stay for the night). Let's go over there,
he invites pointing to another small shack at the other end of his "corner", about 100 feet away
from the main building where his collection of visitors' underwears hang. We sit around a table
and I start to quench my thirst with the cervesa as he drinks his milk. We talk for a few minutes,
he asks about my drive and how many vehicles I encountered along the trail. I tell him how rough
the drive was for me and we talk about tire pressures, etc.
The breeze at Coco's Corner is surprisingly refreshing at this time, compared to that 70 miles up
north. I sleep here at night, Coco points to an open bed not too far from us, next to the shack. I
sleep there during the day, he adds, pointing to the main building. You leave your bed here during
the day, under the sun?, I ask. Why yes, it helps kill the bed bugs, he jokes. The bed is
surrounded and covered by a fishing net in a way a mosquito net would, so I say: you must have very
large mosquitos here. Coco cracks up.
Did you know Coco's real name is Jorge Enrique Corral Sande(r)s? And why the "r" is in parentheses?
Having been driving all day I excuse myself and sighs it's time for me to cook dinner and retire
into the night. He offers me to take a shower in his bathroom but I say thank you but no, adding,
I'll take a shower in my RV.
The night is cool and dark with just the dim glow from a couple of solar-powered bulbs, one at each
building. It takes me a few minutes to get used to the sound of the soda/beer cans rattling in the
breeze. Coco's corner is fenced by the cans strung all around the property. In a breezy night like
this, it is not quiet. But I get used to it after a few minutes and fall into a deep sleep,
interrupted only twice by a couple of trucks passing through in the middle of the night. Not bad,
overall.
Morning breaks and Sr. Coco wakes up early, about 6:00AM. First, he opens the gates, as if he knows
I'm anxious to leave. After a while, when I'm ready - after breakfast and the usual morning preps -
, I go out to him for photo ops. I exclaim how famous he is in the Internet and I want to add
something to his fame. He poses under his underwear collection, while I take photos, and then walks
to my RV and asks: Is there a dead body in there? Truthfully, this is not the first time someone
had made a similar remark about my RV; it must be the color they say, but I beg to differ: my RV
does NOT look like a funeral car, I tell him. The fact is: many think it's a military vehicle. I
take pictures of Coco as he poses beside my RV.
I will not drive through this highway again
The early morning drive from Coco's corner to the Chapala/Hwy1 junction is a welcome prelude to
driving on Hwy1. It's again a lazy 10mph drive, just enough to wake me up into full gear.
Everything changes as I get into the pavement going north to El Rosario.
The road is NARROW, yellow-line in the middle, divided road, with a ditch for a shoulder. If I go
beyond the edge, I would end up in the ditch, if I'm lucky enough that my RV does not turn over. If
I go beyond the center line, I would be colliding with the on-coming vehicle if it's one of the big
rig trucks. I don't think I'm exaggerating when I say, with my vehicle, I have only six inches
each side for a margin-of-error. That said, on the contrary, most vehicles seem to not mind it;
they're driving at or over the speed limit which is 80kmh most of the time or 60km/h at other
times.
Narrow Highway
http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?action=attachment...
It doesn't take long until vehicles add up behind me. I now have a long line at my tail. I am not
driving any faster, I insist to myself. My speedometer shows 35km/h. Every now and then I do 50
km/h but everytime I see a curve sign I sloowww down!!! I spot a turn off and take it - let them
experts go first. Good for them, they can drive fast. Even big long RVs are going fast. After doing
the routine a half-dozen times - slow-driving, long tails, turn-offs, etc. - I get tired and try
to go fast. But the RV is not cooperating, it's fish-tailing at slight steering corrections, and
my knuckles are getting white. I now realize my RV's suspension system is messed up - it's missing
the panhard trackbar and the right-hand front shock absorber, and that must be guiding my
subconscious to drive slowly. I decide to get them re-installed.
Welding work in Catavina
As I drive through Catavina I spot a place with a mecanico sign. I stop and ask for the soldadero
(welder, taken from the spanish dictionary sitting on my console). I have my portable welder with
me but I intend to do it myself only when no one else would. I show the man my broken shock mount.
The man says no, and points south and mutters Pemex. But I know there is no Pemex nearby. So I ask
pointing back, dos kilometros? And he says, No, dos sientos metros. Ahh, he meant the abandoned gas
station with junk all over the place.
I drive 200 meters back over the shoulder (conveniently not a ditch) and talk with the soldadero,
who luckily for me speaks good enough English. I show him the shock mount and the trackbar and ask
him if he could do it, and how much for the two piezas to weld. Dos sientos pesos, he says. OK,
let's do it, I order. I introduce myself and ask for his name. Pancho then directs me to drive my
RV over an elevated "lift" so they can have standing access to the underside of the RV. I nervously
drive the RV tires over two narrow concrete supports, with the help of Pancho's assistant's
hand-signals. After grinding the old welds, Pancho tries to start the welding process. But the
welding machine would not start. Check if it has gas, Pancho directs his assistant. After 10
minutes of fiddling, it finally starts. But wait, we have to disconnect the battery. That's not
easy for me to do now because the RV is too high; the front bumper is now 8 feet high from the
reference ground. With the help of a ladder, I climb to the front bumper, sit on the bull bar, open
the hood and reach for the battery terminal. Done, I tell Pancho, and he sets out to start
welding. But before he makes his first strike, I quickly disable the solar charging system and turn
off the house battery bank disconnect. From start to finish, the entire job is done in 2 hours. I
hand 2 $20 bills (double his price) to Pancho and he looks very happy.
Before getting back on the pavement I stop to let my dog out for a drink and for a pit stop (dog
inside RV during the welding repairs). I see a few military personnel within hearing distance. As I
drive back to the pavement, a man comes my way and give me compliments on my rig, in English, and
asks if I can spare a dollar. I hand him a $1 and off I go.
With the RV suspension system repaired, my condfidence is repaired too. I now expect it to handle
the narrow road at speed limit, at the very least. And truly I'm pleased as it does. I'm back
driving confidently at 80km/h and even beyond but I'm still slowing down before curve signs as
it is my first time through this highway.
I stop next at El Rosario to get gas. Noticing the hotel next to the Pemex station, is this Baja
Cactus Antonio's place, I ask the young attendant and he confirms. Before I let the attendant fill
up the RV tank, I ask him to empty my 2 military spare gas cans into the tank first before topping
it off. But we couldn't take the lid off the cans easily. It takes the muscle power of two people
to break the vacuum that has built inside the cans. But if there's a will there's a way and we
succeed.
Before driving back north, I park my RV out of the way and eat lunch in the RV while my dog takes a
break, again, tied to the front winch hook.
The rest of the drive north is a continuation of the previous drive and transforms into a drive
through populated towns - San Quintin, Camalu, San Vicente, Santo Tomas, Maneadero, and finally to
Ensenada. The highway also widens a bit but then it brings the drive to a slower
pace because of more traffic.
Ooops it broke again, damned toll road potholes!
There are three toll roads to take into Tijuana/San Ysidro crossing, each costing $4.79 dollars.
The regular toll for a car is $2.79 but once they see my dually, they make it more expensive for
me. I drive through all 50 miles of them, until Tijuana, driving 110km/hr through nice views of the
Pacific and some expensive-looking houses along the way. The toll roads are freeway quality
multi-lane highways. Well, until I prepare to exit in Tijuana, and BAAM, my right front tire hits
one of two potholes in the right lane. I couldn't think of anything else, I'm going 60km/hr
and here are two deep, wide potholes, right at the end of 50th mile!!!
As soon as I enter the side streets I start imagining what damage could have resulted. I'm hoping I
didn't break the solar panels on the roof. Soon enough I hear the familiar sound of banging under
the front passenger side. It (shock mount) broke again! And I mean BANGING as in BANG of a rifle,
at times. But I'm not stopping; I'm not even looking at people wondering whats wrong with my RV.
The heck with it, I maintain. So I drive by GPS and try to find my way into San Diego - San Ysidro
border crossing.
Not so easy to find San Diego
There are signs like "US", "San Diego" signs; and that's one thing. But signs that are easy to
follow or that actually lead you where you want to go; that's another thing. At first I follow the
signs and then my GPS tells me I'm now driving south, away from the border. WTH. And it takes
me a while to find a street to swing back north. Twice I fall into the same route that goes to San
Diego / Tecate and, man, it takes a WHILE to figure out how to get back, even during the second
time. And I'm navigating with GPS. Well, with patience and time, I finally get to the 23-lane lines
(or are there 24?) to the US gates.
There are street vendors selling their wares to drivers who are waiting in line to cross the
border. I estimate each line is 25 vehicles deep. And many drivers, mostly in cars with Mexican
plates, get too impatient that they often cut into another lane. Hmm, they must be so eager to get
to the US, I muse.
Through the secondary, again.
It's my turn; it's green light. Forward. The officer asks me to open the back door. I can't, I
say, there's a tire carrier blocking it. You can go inside through here, I wave him to the side
door, and I warn, I have a dog. He looks at the dog and I can see him debating in his mind to
just let me through or ask me to get the dog out, or send me to the secondary. I can see he wants
to just wave me through; however, his better judgment dictates him to direct me to the secondary.
So I drive to the secondary and after I tie my dog outside the RV, every officer, well at least six
of them, come and ask questions. Did you make this? What are those boxes with lights (referring to
the LED lights on solar charger and the power distribution switches and breakers inside the RV).
How much did you spend on it? Where did you drive this to? Do you hunt? What do you use it for?
They ask me to open the back door so I take out the pin/bolt and flip down the tire carrier. They
peek into the RV, the bathroom, stove, refrigerator, etc. And then in just after 2 minutes, one
officer asks: do you have that pink paper with you? Yes, here it is, I reach to my windshield.
Throw it in the trash can, the officer points to the drum nearby. I comply and say, in jest: so,
that was for nothing, I could have done that right at the start! You would have been in trouble,
the officer replies jokingly. No Uzi, I shout as I turn to my dog before leaving, because Uzi is
now peeing - in wild sprays - right next and on to one of the officers that the others burst in a
huge laughter teasing the just-"peeed"(-on) officer.
[Edited on 8-14-2007 by edm1]
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64558
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Thanks edm1, although I cringe reading what you put yourself through or at what you missed seeing... I appreciate your details even if they are of
unhappy events.
Baja is a learning experience. If the 'bug' latches on and you catch 'Baja fever', you will overcome the failures of previous trips and make it a
personal quest to have the ultimate Baja RV.
Your time with Sr. Coco sounded classic!
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edm1
Senior Nomad
Posts: 568
Registered: 8-23-2006
Location: Oak Hills, Ca
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| Quote: | Originally posted by whistler
I looked up the specs on the 5125 shock you are running.The valving(255/70) seems way to light for the weight of your vehicle,if you are running the
standard valving.JMO |
Whistler, I'm glad you brought it up. You hit it in the head. The 5125 is definitely NOT a match to the RV. I was not thinking about valving, etc.
when I bought the set for the RV way quite a while ago. I've replaced the fronts with Max Control monotubes (Gabriel 77355, lifetime warranty at
Autozones) made/valved for 11,000-lb step vans and they're noticeably gentler.
For the rear, the Bilstein shocks have to go too (they're too stiff). I've always planned on putting Air Springs to effect a one-inch additional
cushion. With them, I'll put Max control monotubes too. I'm designing a new more robust panhard trackbar for the rear, may go to a modified Watts
trackbar.
Of course, the front mods will be trashed if I decided to finally install the front-drive axle. But that's a BIG IF.
And the tires, of course, are the big question. But I'll wear them out first, driving them somewhat under-inflated before I replace them. They're not
cheap to replace.
[Edited on 8-3-2007 by edm1]
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Neal Johns
Super Nomad
Posts: 1687
Registered: 10-31-2002
Location: Lytle Creek, CA
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Mood: In love!
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edm1, Thanks for the trip report, they are always interesting.
Since you live close, how about you and your current wife  joining us for lunch
or dinner soon? I will beat you into submission until you get some single LARGE BFG's on the rear of your monster.
Neal and Marian Johns
Lytle Creek
My motto:
Never let a Dragon pass by without pulling its tail!
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edm1
Senior Nomad
Posts: 568
Registered: 8-23-2006
Location: Oak Hills, Ca
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| Quote: | Originally posted by David K
Thanks edm1, although I cringe reading what you put yourself through or at what you missed seeing... I appreciate your details even if they are of
unhappy events.
Baja is a learning experience. If the 'bug' latches on and you catch 'Baja fever', you will overcome the failures of previous trips and make it a
personal quest to have the ultimate Baja RV.
Your time with Sr. Coco sounded classic! |
David, thank you for feeling for me. Yes there were some "unhappy" moments there but only when I was at a point of near exhaustion. Once re-energized,
the adventure spirit lingered on. I had a blast. And I'll do it again.
'Hope to meet you one of these coming months.
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edm1
Senior Nomad
Posts: 568
Registered: 8-23-2006
Location: Oak Hills, Ca
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Neal Johns
. . . your current wife
Neal and Marian Johns
Lytle Creek |
Neal, that'll probably not gonna change; my permanent wife did "I want to go there" when she saw the photos I took.
Is there a meeting on the 18th this month? Thanks for the invite. Please let me know so I could ask her to prepare some potluck food.
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Neal Johns
Super Nomad
Posts: 1687
Registered: 10-31-2002
Location: Lytle Creek, CA
Member Is Offline
Mood: In love!
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No http://www.DesertExplorers.org meeting this month, but you can come this month and get more time with my Baja and/or automobile library, pet
Huskys, tell lies about how our wifes treat us, etc.
Next Desert Explorers meeting at my house September 9, 10:00 a.m.
Anyone else?
aridneal at gotskydotcom
My motto:
Never let a Dragon pass by without pulling its tail!
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Cypress
Elite Nomad
Posts: 7641
Registered: 3-12-2006
Location: on the bayou
Member Is Offline
Mood: undecided
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edm 1 Thanks for the report and pictures, looking foreward to your next Baja adventure. 
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