"THE ROAD TO BAJA"

That's funny... I've noticed that Hillarylooks and sounds a bit like Ellen lately,and maybe ellen is helping her to show her softer side

"And...you see odd things on that hairy grade almost every trip. I once came around the last downhill S-curve to see a rolled green pepper truck on it’s side. The flat area next to the truck was mounded with it’s cargo...and had a couple shoppers on it already. I drove past to the first pullout and went back to score some roadkill myself. Baja Road Rule #8 - Never pass up a rolled pepper truck."


So that's where you found that pepper, Roger

The Gas Company.....”Headed to The Bulk Plant”

Coming downhill off ‘the grade’ you will notice a gas (propane) storage facility off to the left. To a lot of area home and store owners this is a very familiar place. Back in the day, long before any of us acquired the larger 400-1000 liter tanks that are filled from delivery trucks, we used the common 45kg stand-up propane bottles for just about everything in our homes and stores.

Propane appliances, stoves, refrigerators, water heaters, gaslights in villages and off-grid areas of Baja is a way of life. My Coyote Bay home has been off-grid since 1971 and propane is muy importante. We have no power lines..yet. For over 30 years now we hear..”Next year it is coming.”..yeah, right.

Living off-grid, you never let yourself be caught without at least one or two full reserve tanks. I had 15 bottles all told, insurance against those frequent gaps in propane supply from the mainland via the Sta. Rosalia ferry. Rough water in the Cortez? No propane. Today this seldom, if ever, happens, thanks to a additional land delivery system.


From Coyote we had two options for getting the old stand-ups refilled:

1. Haul empty tanks 17 miles to Pepe or his son,Victor, in Mulege to be refilled. Usually this took a day or three and required 2 trips to town. Plus there was always the danger of an explosion, which happened from time to time. (Remember that motorhome years ago, Pepe? You still have the scars, old friend. They had not turned off the unit's fridge pilot light...Kaboom!)

2. A few miles more, but quicker. Load all your empties, and all your neighbor’s empties, into whoever’s 3/4 or 1 ton is available. Throw the dog in and everyone takes off for The Bulk Plant where you get the empties filled muy pronto.

Most Important: Don't forget to pack a beer cooler with butter sticks, and a jar or two of raspberry jam.
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[Edited on 5-24-2008 by Pompano]

The answer I wanted to hear.

Santa Rosalia

As you approach Sta. Rosalia, you get an eagle's eye view of far-off Tortuga Island in the Sea of Cortez. A great fishing area.
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This old ruined beach cafe is being restored as I type. Will have to check it out on the next trip north.
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In case anybody needs some odd electronic gismo or appliance, we have had good luck at this store on north end of town.
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Who doesn’t know about Santa Rosalia’s famous El Boleo bakery? That’s why we packed that cooler with butter and raspberry jam on our trips to the gas bulk plant. Make for great tailgate picnics with fresh, hot boleos.
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A baker using long paddle to turn and collect the loaves.
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El Boleo bakery...named after the now-defunct French copper-mining company that founded the town back in 1885. The word ‘boleo’ came from the small globes of copper-bearing ore found in the area.
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As you enter the main steet into town center..stop and have some great tacos at Pepe's. Baja-good.
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The John Eiffel-designed metal church that was originally supposed to go to a Paris exhibition in 1889, but got re-directed here, thanks to the efforts of some French nuns.
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This town’s hustle and bustle is far different than other towns in the area. The unique-to-Baja French influence on the village architecture is very apparent..lots of wooden homes and shops from the mining days.
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The copper would travel by ship to Washington state and return with lumber.

Lots of Chinese and Japenese workers were initially brought in to work the mines, but after finding no rice could go in the area, those nationalities moved to other parts...including Sinaloa on the mainland. There are still some families of Oriental descent remaining in Baja Sur that descended from these earlier immigrants.

After the copper started to run out, most of the old smelter operations went to ruins and the mining operation was officially closed in 1985. Quite a bit of the old smelter went into ‘decor’ for nearby vacation homes.

Anyone traveling the earlier Baja road will remember driving underneath that very noticeable pipe trestle that went from the plant to the waterfront. Skipjack Joe recalled it in one of his posts.
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There is a good marina in Sta. Rosalia. We used to slip here overnight on my old Pompano..renew supplies...ice, diesel, etc. Easy walking to all places.
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Today Santa Rosalia is an important route for traveler’s and business - to and from the mainland via the ferry system.
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The Navy makes it’s presence there..plus it is the ‘county seat’ of Mulege area where all the state and federal offices are located.
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Compared to Mulege....this is ‘City Slicker’ territory where a shopper will find anything and everything. A library and zolcalo.
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DRACULA!!
Many years ago, when I also lived nearby at Pta. Chivato, we would drive into Cach-ah-nee-ah , little flower.. a local name for Sta. Rosalia, for a movie. Wow..a movie theatre in this area of Baja in the early 70's was a real treat! You had to like vampires and blood a lot, though.
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And we all know about this Nomad-made-famous Pemex on south end of town.
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Before heading south to Mulege..we stop at this newer viewpoint.

A couple enjoying the view from the tourism office overlooking Sta. Rosalia harbor.
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[Edited on 5-25-2008 by Pompano]

Pompano, Thanks for the picures of Santa Rosalia.

Thanks for the cyber-ride, Roger! I loved the humor, the scenery and your vast knowledge of Baja history.

I was so enthralled that I completely missed Hillary putting her foot in her mouth.

Tony...glad you like the journey so far..we are almost home.

(On Hilary's recent foot-in-mouth and extraction: I love Hilary's speeches. They remind me of this oldie..."There are two sides to every question, and a good politician takes both.")

Sta. Rosalia - San Marcos Island - Ejido San Lucas - San Lucas - San Bruno - Magdelena - Palo Verde- old airport - the dump - Mulege

Okay, on the road again ...to Mulege. Off we go, past a couple of good motels and the old chicken ranch which we don’t talk about. A great junk yard on the right where you can find any part for any thing..I know.

About right here is where I have to brake suddenly.

An immigration car pulled us over, checked Barack-O and John M’s id’s, declared them invalid, waved an Interpol arrest-on-sight order, and hauled them off to the calaboose. The U.S. Senate had an international all-points bulletin out on them and Hilary. All three exceeded the number of Chamber-allowed voting absences during our little campaign jaunt. One agent told me Hil-Bilary had been picked up in a Vizcaino bawdy house playing sax with The Soggy Bottom Boys...a group I formerly knew as Fast Eddy and the Slow Learners..

It would have been a nice quiet trip with just Felipa and sisters to Coyote were it not for this Texan who was hitching to Cabo. Said his stateside job was pretty much a lame-duck and he had lots of free time to ramble..and party-hardy.

..So off we go again. What luck, eh?

How did that interloper get in the back seat????

Look for the Soggy Bottom Boys (AKA Fast Eddy and the Slow Learners) to slog around in a lot more bawdy houses this Fall and Winter, some that you and other Coyote residents no doubt will frequent

Will do, Tony...looking forward to la musica!

TORTUGA ISLAND

Heading out of Santa Rosalia now with newest passenger entertaining the senoritas with stories..they repay by teaching him sentence structure. As we clear the rise ahead we see far-off Tortuga Island on the Cortez horizon. A well-known angling and diving spot.

Without a good anchorage or landing spot anywhere...Tortuga is a water wonderland....LOTS of fish.

Here is a good Divebaja photo of what awaits the diver with camera.

TORTUGA

Fishing Story Detour:

Tortuga Island aboard my old ‘Pompano’ many years ago, 4 of us from Coyote Bay had an especially successful..and hilarious...day on the water. We started out trolling Mexican-flag feathers under the feeding and fast-moving porpoise.
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We scored on these delicious yellowfin tuna, which mi amigo, and Nomad ‘aquaholic’, is putting into the iced fishholds. Great job, aqua, you earned your rum quota this day!
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Seeing fins in the bloodied water, I rigged up and ..wha-hey!.. caught a nine-foot hammerhead trolling a strike-snubber with a yellowfin-carcass bait. We dispatched it quickly and tied it alongside the boat because it would take up too much deck space.
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About 30 minutes later another buddy caught a very large grouper next to the island’s eastern drop-off. We tied the big grouper to the fantail and towed the hammerhead head-first from the stern..it’s dorsal fin and tail sticking up like sails.....all the way back to Coyote Bay.

Our fishing was complete for that day as we relaxed and celebrated a bit on the long ride home.
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When we chugged into our anchorage in front of the beachfront casas at Coyote, I could see one of my neighbors sitting in his usual place under his veranda enjoying the c-cktail hour..Old Eduardo.. quite a likeable ‘character.’ Old Ed’s passion was grouper-fishing (A great panguero-fisherman-diver in his day.) and he always had some great fishing stories to tell us ‘youngsters’ about over a few tequilas.

I grabbed a loud-hailer and shouted from the bridge...”Hola Eduardo! Want to see a nice grouper?!” I swung the wheel hard around and pointed the stern towards the shore so Old Ed could see the huge fish tied to our fantail. Ed was so excited by the sight of that grouper that he got off his chair and started wading out to take a closer look... large drink in hand.

As he got closer I climbed down and grabbed the towline with attached hammerhead and quickly began hauling it in..the shark’s fins showing high and menacing as it glided past the stern towards the shore. When Old Ed was about belly-high in the shallow..I yelled...”Shark! Shark!”..and pointed to the fins.

Old Eduardo managed a truly remarkable feat for a hombre his age and weight.. Levitation and rotation all at once. Eyes opening wide, he threw his drink over his head, leaped into the air, did a 180, and created a good-sized wake right up the sea-wall.

My buddy almost fell off the flybridge holding his sides and I was no better..Jeez, what a day that was!

Eduardo eventually invited us over to his veranda story sessions again..but it took a few days.
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Move over TR

Here she is in your very own state, Pompano.

The stonecutters are preparing as we speak. Why should only men be represented?

'Founding Fathers? Bah. I'll match my profile with any of them', she was quoted as saying.

Close...but no cigar, Skipjack.

My home state is, of course, NORTH Dakota.

My name is Pompano and I endorse this joke:

A man appears before St. Peter at the pearly gates. "Have you ever done anything of partiicular merit?" St. Peter asks.

"Well, I can think of one thing," the man offers.

"Once, on a trip to Mt. Rushmore, out in the Black Hills of South Dakota, I came upon a gang of high-testosterone bikers who were threatening a young woman. I directed them to leave her alone, but they wouldn't listen. So, I approached the largest and most heavily tattooed biker. I smacked him on the head, kicked his bike over, ripped out his nose ring and threw it on the ground, then told him, "Leave her alone now or you'll answer to me."

St. Peter was impressed. "When did this happen?"

"Just a couple of minutes ago."

..............................................

Igor,

The pile of rockheads in your photo is where those unusual 'down south' types live. We cut them some slack, though. After all, Dakota is Souix for 'friends.'

We have the REAL mountain rock carvings up here.. where we are known as the 'Sunshine State'...as any Montanan can tell you.



[Edited on 5-28-2008 by Pompano]

On the stump..er..ROAD again.

Just a short drive south from Santa Rosalia lies the quiet village of Ejido San Lucas and adjacent San Lucas RV Park.
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I often stop at this corner tienda to ask if there are any fresh oysters in the cooler.
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If there, the shucked oysters will be in jars..about a quart-size. Unfortunately, this time there were none. (note: Sometimes...opening one of these country fridges is not for the faint of heart. Bites have occurred from escaping meats.)
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We drive on into Ejido San Lucas. Streets are very well organized. Even I can find an address within 5 minutes. Plus...Everyone tells you how far they are from this recognizable landmark.


So..oohh-kaay, that pretty well wraps it up. We make a quick U-turn back to the highway.


[Edited on 5-29-2008 by Pompano]

Across the highway from Ejido San Lucas...CAMACHO'S & SAN LUCAS RV PARK

Here is a gem for visiting fishermen with trailerable, shallow-draft boats.

Watch for these signs:

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Continue on trail until you get to this sign..then make your choice. Camacho's or San Lucas RV Park. San Lucas is by far the most popular.

So we will visit Camacho's first.
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As you enter Camacho's you will see lots of available shaded camping spots with ocean views, plus a boat ramp. FYO, that is San Marcos Island out there...surrounded by yellowtail, just waiting for you.



Quite a view from this nice spot, with a well-protected anchorage for the boat.

More Camacho's

We have often trailered boats from Coyote and Mulege to launch here..because of the proximity to San Marcos and Tortuga islands. Saves us a lot of nautical miles, fuel, and time. We have only a few miles to run from here.

A couple problems, though. You must pay attention to the tides as San Lucas Cove is quite shallow and you can get stranded during low tides. Planning your fishing trip here requires a tide table and a plan. Also getting through a certain rockpile is tricky from Camacho's...so follow the path through those white poles out there to save your prop and keel.

Camacho's honor system

If nobody is around at this entry shack, just pick a spot and set up camp. If you have to, ask for and look up the owner.

The only ones there when we passed through were these 2 quail. Ahh...got a grill?..got bacon? A plus to primitive camping with a tote bin, cracker crumbs, stick, and rope.

As you are leaving Camacho's...

Feel free to use the facility.

edit: I much prefer the afternoon sombre.

[Edited on 5-29-2008 by Pompano]

SAN LUCAS RV PARK AND ANCHORAGE

The San Lucas RV Park is right next door ..this is the waterfront scene from Camacho's.
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A very short drive around and there you are.

RV Park fish cleaning station.

This may be thee most-used yellowtail cleaning table in Baja Sur. A quick run out to make a few baits at a local hotspot called The Haystack..or wherever your favorite hole may be for big-eyes or macks. Than a short run NNE of San Marcos and find those jurel.

Bait is not mandatory though, lots of tails are caught on iron, trolled diving lures, and dynamite if you get lucky at poker with the miners. (Insert historical note here: Years ago, the gypsum miners would trade dynamite for favors at the local chicken club in Sta. Rosalia. Hence the expression ..a bang...got started.)

Cabrilla, dorado, marlin, sailfish, wahoo, gold-spotted bass, grouper, red snapper, triggerfish, roosters, no walleyes, and assorted finny critters are caught in these waters. Just not all at the same time. Best time for dorado is about to start pretty soon now...

Here's a successful fisherman cleaning tonight's dinner...a fine-eating filet de jurel.

Lots of long-term campers here.

San Lucas becomes a long stay for some who seek good fishing and the comraderie of a small RV park on the Cortez. Life is good. What could be better?

"Build it and they shall come."

On the west side of San Lucas Cove is a relatively new housing development...hey, anything built since the missions are new to me. I have not taken the time to look this place over yet, so we will check it out when we get back on the highway.

Last look at San Lucas RV Park...

My Texas passenger is grumbling about getting closer to a margarita, so we are breaking camp at the San Lucas cove.
These Secret Service bodygaurds are keeping a watchful eye on our passenger, who has donned a cap, sunglasses, and false beard.
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p.s. the squid fleet is working nights off San Marcos. These are just a couple pangas used by nearby calamari pangueros.


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Adios, San Lucas camp. Buene suerte with the fishing!



[Edited on 5-29-2008 by Pompano]

Cut and Run

Okay, a new day dawns and we need to break camp.. and hustle to make up for delays and detours. Some of us had never expected to stay so long in un-planned areas, but the search for a better fish-catching Way, Method, and Dividend had swayed us. Funny, being a fisherman and knowing the history of this fish-killing mecca, I knew those things were around there somewhere.......?

As we left San Lucas RV Park before it was fully awake, our Texan dissaproved, saying that, if he were still driving,.. to 'cut and run' was not his way of doing things. Said we really should have got the truth from those close-mouthed fishermen.
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We start out on Highway 1 again, heading south for Mulege, a short few miles...sure....like our folks used to tell us kids on those long-ago road trips..."It's just over the next hill."

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ON THE ROAD AGAIN.

The first scene we see when pulling out onto the Baja Road
again is the Army base at San Lucas Cove.

(Army saying: If it moves, salute it; if it doesn't move, pick it up; if you can't pick it up, paint it.)
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The young soldiers barracked here get a VERY strenuous workout on this obstacle course adjacent to the highway. Thanks to their training, they will be in good shape after completing their military tour.
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This 'getting into shape' gives me a thought. We can build a course like this as the entrance to the Jungla!
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Saw these on the road.....

I have not been in to look these new (to me) developments over yet, but have heard good things about this newest addition to the San Lucas area. What could be better than to be that close to good fishing! Will have to stop back here on the next tour of duty.
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"Are you ready for a Change in Direction?"

We barely get up to highway speed when we come upon a sign: MAGDALENA 15KM....soooo....what say you, crew?

"SI COMO NO!" the gals shout. "Well heck, no time like the present." W says, "Like old Socrateaser once said..'Procrastination is the thief of time."

So we are off the pavement again....and on

The Road to Adventure...MAGDALENA.
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Winding up way up into the low mountain valleys we chance upon this flock of grazing goats...and chivatos. The hills are lush and quail are everywhere. ( I need to return with bread crumbs and bacon strips!)
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As you come off the high trail you see the beautiful little hamlet of Magdalena spread out below. It is a very peaceful place and we take a lazy tour around. First the ornate cemetary where we respectfully walk.
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Then we visit the reason Magdalena people are so happy...the special water source that makes their crops grow so well. They are proud of this water they say is so much better than any other. Nothing better than Magdalena garlic!

I remember a certain trip I took to Magdalena back around 1984 or so. I went with my Coyote Bay neighbor, Jake, a retired LA fireman and long-time Baja resident. We were quail hunting first and then drove down into Magdalena to visit an old hombre whom I had met before..Chuey Meza. Chuey was pretty old then, but his mother was really old..about 90, I believe. Chuey raised garlic and onions, like most others in the village. Somewhere I have an old photo showing his 2 workers sitting in the shade of a palm outside his home...braiding garlic ropes. And his mother sitting on the table inside braiding yet more ropes. It was one of the most rural scenes I can remember from Baja...and reminded me of my own roots up north.

The other photo I hope to find is of Chuey's yard...it held the biggest poinsetta bush/tree I have ever seen..or will see. The plant had to be thirty feet across and twenty feet high. Jake took some cuttings home and did quite well with them over the coming years.

Magdalena is well-known for it's great veggies, but the king here is garlic...ajo.

Here Felipa picks this ajo farmer's pocket while he is working in his field. W says, 'That's okay, it has always been that way with farmers. Kinda like a tradition, y'know?'

[Edited on 5-30-2008 by Pompano]

Pompano, Thanks! Keep the photos and the humor coming.

"A Squid in Every Pot" - SAN BRUNO

Coming back to the blacktop, I turn to the right....W leans forward and says, "Amigo, that there's a darn good direction you just picked." I sigh, knowing the next stop will be to the left.

SAN BRUNO

See?

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San Bruno is just a good lope south of San Lucas, not to be confused with the historical San Bruno of mission fame. That San Bruno, just north of Loreto was built around 1683 and deserted by 1685. A short run for the Jesuits.

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A nice paved entry into this seaside town. I notice the two memory markers marking some earlier trajedy.

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San Bruno is located just across from San Marcos Island and the gypsum mine. The straits between are sometimes full of Humboldt squid...and the fleet of pangueros hunting them from dusk to dawn. Driving past this scene at night, the waters are sparkling with hundreds of boat lanterns.

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A mini-housing boom has started here in the last few years...as with most of the Baja shoreline. We drive by some nice homes being constructed..


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Then come to Main Street.

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Some firetrees in full flame.

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We find ourselves next to the fishing co-op. W comments...'Fishermen should not be boozers.'

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This brings us to an old familiar haunt from the early 70's. We used to trailer a 16' Lund aluminum boat of mine up here and launch it under those palms in the distance. Back then we had to go through an eldely senora's yard to find the best launch site on some flat rocks and hard sand. We always paid her 5 dollars in pesos and she was very glad to see us return. Old times. The white sea bass were here then..and big ones.

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Of course it all different now...modernized. Holy tamales, is that an electric LIGHT POLE!

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Big cement ramp...ah, that makes it so much easier on my prop!

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Lots of glorious BOATS! Bravo!..compadres on boats.

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Some are divers....

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Some are netters..

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There is even a nice stretch of beach waiting for your enjoyment.

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"NO CHILD LEFT BEHIND"
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Ah, what could be better than a couple of youngsters beachcombing. What treasures they will find in their lives. Hey, can I come along?


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Time to leave, boys...got business down the road. We grab a couple cold ones at this highway tienda and are back on the stump...southward, ever southward, mateys.

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As we leave, I notice the old, old hacienda over there. It was a hundred years old when I first saw it..and goes back to some French-funded sugar cane plantation days between San Bruno and Pta. Chivato. I believe it is ejido headquarters now. We used to browse around the old irrigation aquaducts the early French put in...sugar cane, wheat, olives, vineyards........but that's another story for another day.

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HEAD 'EM UP! MOVE 'EM OUT!....keep them elephants/donkeys rollin, rollin, rollin.....

"IT'S THE ECON...FISHING, STUPID."

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SAN MARCOS ISLAND MEMORY DETOUR

..for the good times.
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A name synonymous with all these: islanders, fishing, gypsum, fishing, diving, squid, bent propshafts, and more fishing.
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1974 photo of Gypsum mine and San Marcos village. Jack Weyerhauser, Lois Black, JW Black (Blackjack) in cowboy hat.

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'We often went boat-camping for a couple weeks on the Pompano, towing an 18' Alumacraft chase boat behind us. Sometimes we would go to Tortuga first to dive and fish large fish. But Tortuga has no good anchorage worth losing your Danforth over, so we would motor over to San Marcos for the nights. If we felt like it, we just floated out there at night, letting a gentle current glide us around the island. Those were magic moments, with glowing porpoise circling us, whale noises, odd splashing...starry skies and moonlit beaches. The stuff of Baja.

On one occasion, however, while I was over the side looking for something to spear for dinner, my first mate had some fun running the boat forward, then backward.. re-setting the Pompano's bow anchor...while the chase-boat's towline was floating fast astern. I won't bore you with all that went wrong with that manuever..except to say that the Pompano was now 'Out of Service' until I could make some repairs.

No choice except to tow the disabled larger cruiser with the chase-boat to the village machine shop at San Marcos on the island. I knew there was a welder there, plus... 'Hell's bells, it will be fun, sweetheart.....don't feel so bad.' I recall my teeth hurt from the grinding.

Well, it all worked out beautifully. Alone in the Alumacraft, I towed the Pompano a few miles to the gypsum village while First Mate was doing some chores in the cabin. It was a calm sea and I brought the boats into the anchorage of the little town..and quickly got all anchored and secure. It was now getting close to dusk, too late to go look up the mechanic/welder. Then the cabin door opened ..the First Mate was carrying a tray with big prime rib sandwiches and tall bloody marys. Hey, the day was looking better by the minute.

Manana I will find the mechanic...and maybe we will take a the scenic tour of the village. Meet some folks, do a little shopping at the little grocery store, whatever trips our trigger.

We stayed at that anchorage for 5 days...the mechanic finished the repairs in 2.
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North end of the island. This is a good landmark during the day and a welcome light at night. Also a good spot to have lunch and try some casting. That island behind in the distance is Tortuga.

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A lot..a whole lot..of serious yellowtail fisherman yearn to come try their skill on good-sized jurel at San Marcos...and most do sooner or later. Persistence pays off..even for this one.
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If you do get to the Island...here is a good place to start fishing. This is the north end of San Marcos..the seal rocks are a good waypoint. Try live bait or jig 'em, it's all good.
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Sails and marlin come by when the water warms...usually May through Oct is good for these big guys. Releasing is the rule of the day on billfish..as was this one right after the photo.

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Some great marine life on these rocks at San Marcos...and sometimes they get your fish.


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Other marine life that may take your fish..and give you a thrill! These are Orca photos sent to me by a whale enthusiast amigo living in San Lucas Cove. They were taken just off the seal rocks...their prey. Gracias, Esteban.

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A mite close..
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Here's a good photo of that lagoon shown on the first photo..the map. The entrance.
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Looking down into the hidden lagoon from above.

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Just outside the entrance is/was a great spot to dive and get some pics. A deep, deep hole that was full of...
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Well, that's it for walking down memory lane near San Marcos. Fond memories = Baja Feeling.

Time to get back to our passengers ...who may have fallen asleep by now.

AEROPUERTO RE-OPENING SOON.

slogan: "MOVING OUR PICKUP FORWARD"

Just south a couple miles from San Bruno is the turnoff for the Aeropuerto..which was originally laid out in the late 70's. My old Baja flying buddy, Dusty, and I landed his 180 taildragger here a few times back then. Things have changed considerably since.
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I pulled up to the airport terminal and a gaurd walked out. We yakked for a bit, he asked me for a cigarette, but I quit over 25 years ago, so I was no help there. He told me the airport would be open for commercial traffic within 20 days..then he smiled.

Well... I will believe that when I see it. Oh, si. International flights from Guaymas, he said. Big planes.
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As we drove in we saw lots of work..
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...new asphalt being laid...and lengthening of the runway..
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Hmmmm...
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OK, ok...I believe it..progress has indeed come to Baja. This ain't Kansas any more, Toto.
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[Edited on 5-31-2008 by Pompano]

"A KINDER GENTLER..VILLAGE"

That pretty much describes this wide spot on the highway. Usually just a blur, but known to many as the place where you turn for Punta Chivato.
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I love this old policia cruiser parked next to the Chivato trail. It just HAS to slow down one or two speeders..
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slogan: "ARE YOU BETTER OFF THAN YOU WERE 4 YEARS AGO?"

PUNTA CHIVATO SAYS......HELL YES!
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I know, I know...you are thinking, "Carumba, can't stay on a straight path for more than 10 miles, can he? At this rate, he'll never get home." All I can offer as an excuse is an overpowering urge to make voyages, or at least attempt them. I hate sitting at anchor.

Okay, time to take the mob to the 'Nuevo' Punta Chivato. (After almost 40 years, I think I'm just gonna call it Chivato..little goat..or would 'El' Chivato be better? :rolleyes
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You can get there by air, water, or land. I've done all three many times, plus that time I was at Jungle Jim's and got beamed over.

This time we are taking the land route from Palo Verde. We've called this washboard road the 4 or 40. since forever.
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+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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Flashback:
.......( oh jeezo, here he goes again..)

Back in the day, we improvished events at Chivato..no tv!...night dives at Sta. Inez, photographing sea snakes in the channel, flying brakeless with Dr. Sordo (a nutcase from Mexico City), bikini stafing runs with Dusty, keeping bobcats, dove/duck hunts at the lagoon, skinny dipping in the hilltop reservoir...the normal stuff. Ah..the '4 oor 40' though, that was something else! We had races aagainst the clock. I held the land speed record of 14 minutes from the old hotel to the pavement. We did regular races on that spine-rattling trail almost every day. Well..okay, so they were beer runs mostly, but we raced to the deposito!
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BACK TO PRESENT DAY EVENTS

"Changes We Can Believe In."

Chivato - The view coming off the trail.
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There are many homes along this scenic shore these days. Some were built in the 80's, but many more lately, plus the remodels of the old Casa Grande, where we all lived, and the hotel itself.

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THE BEACH
The entrance to the old camping beach on the point...drive between these houses.

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NO campers today....
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Pretty tranquil....quiet....deserted.
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We used to stage 4X4 climbs up this sandy, smooth dunes area. In fact, we had a great name for the hill shown below...but danged if I can remember now just what it was?....it's right on the tip of my tongue..hmmm...what the heck was it?
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The lighthouse beach areas......lots of beachwalking room.

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.........................NEXT STOP...'THE HOTEL'.
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Punta Chivato Hotel - May 2008

Today known as Posada de las Flores.

Here is the entry from the hotel parking lot.


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Our old 'concrete pond.'


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Basically the same outside bar/patio. Much better furniture! No sign of the old Kobey's Swap Meet plastics.

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New seaside bar...very pleasant...not very crowded.

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Please excuse this teeny fishing memo..from 'the good ol days'..

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Newly remodeled seaview rooms. Same layout..but very pricey now. We saw only one guest, which the bartender confirmed. Whew...In the late 70's-early 80's these were rented out for 10 bucks a day. If you were a gal..almost free.

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While having a drink at the outside bar, we noticed a few bad guys out there...seiners!:mad:

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That dust trail below is yours truly when presented with the bar bill...

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Hey, is that you leaving, capt. mike? Got your bar bill, too, eh?

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Hey, what's that up ahead on the road...Oh, No!..looks like a time-warp space continuim blowing in...Un Calabozo?
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W looks at the phenomenon and says, "Ol Socrateaser had something to say about that, too...'The only thing we have to fear, is fear itself.' What's the worst that could happen?"
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[Edited on 5-31-2008 by Pompano]

Pompano, Great pictures! Thanks. Looking foreward to the next leg of your journey.

'ONE HELLUVA RIDE" - The Early Chivato Years

These are all old photos from 1959 to 2003...all taken in and around Punta Chivato. I hope the nostalgia has not been too much for you. I AM almost done. My Baja trip is coming to a close.

Did I just hear a little sigh of relief?

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!!CAUTION!! - OLD PTA. CHIVATO PHOTOS

Well, here they are ..20 photos in rapid succession. It'll be over soon, you'll suffer no lasting effects. ...Trust me.

Okey dokey, here we go...
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b]One for the road, Saul. Gracias.

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"ADIOS COMPADRES." Now to get going. Home is just over the next hill......

..................IMPORTANT EDIT......................

Anybody got room for a rider?
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[Edited on 7-21-2008 by Pompano]

Back home at last....

ElinvestI8...thanks for your coffee table suggestion, but there's not much space left for another book.

I keep a visitor's register and my old Baja Sea Guide there. If you come by, please sign one and page through the other. That visitor's log makes for interesting reading...full of 35 years of people...and could make a hi-dollar chip in any future blackmail poker game.

I don't have much passion for this right now, as I have received some news that needs attending to..but will finish the Trip Photo Report/Log/Blog or whatever you want to call it soon. We have only to drive from Pta. Chivato to Coyote...that's just over the next hill...honest.

Be back in a day or two.......

Pompano I look forward to more of your La Baja Tales.

FINAL PHASE OF THE TRIP...I PROMISE.

Hello again, Nomads. After a sojourn of many days to say goodbye to an old friend of Baja, I am back and ready to complete my trip ‘report’ from San Diego to Coyote Bay. I realize I left you waiting at the hotel, Posada de los Flores, at Punta Chivato and am EXTREMELY sorry that you had to sell your house and car to pay your bill...

SOOO...Back to the road trip...we are ready to resume our travels.

.Leaving Pta. Chivato I try to break my 1979 land speed record of 12.5 minutes from the hotel to the pavement at Palo Verde, but gave up after losing 2 Pacificos and 3 dental fillings.

Regaining Highway 1, we turn south towards Mulege after waving at Olivia Canul and her husband. They are a very helpful couple who live in this tiny hamlet and have an office in Sta. Rosalia where Olivia helps her clients with all sorts of paralegal jobs...various documents, permits, FM-3's, translations, legwork, etc. Another person I can recommend doing this sort of work in the area is Julietta Medina Oronoz, also of Sta. Rosalia. Good people, all.

The highway scene from Palo Verde to Mulege holds nothing of interest...except for the observant driver. Swinging your head to the left you could note the recent developments, various new roads leading to new camping sites, investment opportunities, an ocean, etc.
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In memory of an amigo:

Turning now to the other direction..inland...you might just spy a bare strip of desert floor way, way out there....Mulege’s first 'airport'...circa early 70's. Pretty much forgotten these days and faded into Baja history, this was once a landing field for prop planes, Air Cortez, Gunnel Air, DC-3 flights from Guaymas and many other origins.

It’s life-span was brief and we used it just a couple of times back in the day.

A lifelong friend, whose memorial I just attended, was once a passenger on an Air Cortez flight landing at this field, their trip originating in Mexico City.
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It was 1976, he and his wife were coming to visit me after participating in a skeet shoot hosted by the Sauza family for Ducks Unlimited of Mexico. My friend was western director for Ducks Unlimited at the time. Our hunts in Baja and mainland Mexico were many. I had talked them into visiting this part of Mexico on thier way home.

Back in 1976 Mulege, life was very quiet, there was not a lot of need then for most things we take for granted today...let alone special airport service. Almost all air traffic was private plane to the Serinadad Hotel..and before that to the old Club Aero strip across the rio.

I had arrived at this remote airfield early and was ready and waiting when the old Gooney-Bird thundered down for a landing.

I had a little practical joke planned.

I had hidden my car behind a shed and I was dressed in Hollywood-stereotype Mexican clothing...well-worn white pantaloons and shirt, sandals, and large sombrero. I found a shady tree trunk to sit down against close by the passenger arrival area. I pulled the sombrero down over my face and sat there, sandaled feet outstretched in my best siesta-mode. I even managed a slight snore.

I could hear the half-dozen or so passengers coming off the plane’s stairway and a couple hellos to a single waiting taxi and another private car. I hear people talking, doors opening, closing, then the cars departing.

Then I heard my lifelong compadre’s voice...his name was Roger, also....talking to his wife: “I don’t KNOW, Judy. I don’t see his El Camino. Sure hope he got message from Don Johnson. Communications to this place suck.”

His wife, Judy, said ...”Well, that taxi and car just left so we’re pretty much alone out here except for the pilot and he’s about to leave for Guaymas again. Oh look, there’s a man sleeping over there under that tree. Maybe he can help, go ask him.”

I hear Roger walking towards me and then his shoes appear under the brim of my sombrero. He says in his mid-western drawl, “Hello, pardon me? Sprecken sie English?.” I sit perfectly still, snoring away.

I hear Judy say, “Oh, great
Spanish, honey..this isn’t Munchen, you know.”

Roger says, “Senor? Hellooo..Hola-hola.?” and he taps my sandal a couple times with his shoe. Judy says, “This scares me, maybe we should get back on the plane before it leaves?” Roger taps my sandal again and says, “Damn, we could be stuck here for God knows how long...best watch the luggage, and keep an eye on this character.. I’ll talk to the pilot just in case.”

Then I tipped my sombrero back and said, “Ach, mein Gott!...But then you will miss the best fishing of your entire life, Herr Page.”

I gleefully listened to Roger recounting that meeting for the next 2 weeks at various dinner parties in Mulege. And each time over the last 32 years was also great fun.

Like Roger always said about me, ‘I know him well, and love him anyway.’

My lifelong compadre has passed over. And left an empty place in many Baja hearts. I wish you could have known him, too, because I know you would have been friends.

.. No farewells for us, amigo. Take the rest of the trip home with me..and beyond.

Roger David Page....my friend.


[Edited on 10-14-2011 by Pompano]

Pompano, 12.5 minutes from the beach to the hwy. That computes to somewhere around 60mph+ across sand, washboard etc. My math is fuzzy. Bet the brew was foamy when you hit the blacktop.

Pompano that story about your friend and his wife was...I laughed out loud.

Back to the present trip into Mulege..

We wind up the low mountains bordering Mulege and past the city dump up the large arroyo to the right.. A great place to visit if you really want to see some pertinent history of any place, and Mulege has some truly great garbage:

5 million wine corks
1 zillion Carta Blanca empties -collector items with the old bottom-openers
every Padre Kino wine bottle made (no caps)
some working Servel refrigerators
rusted-out boat trailers
washing machine barrels ready to be recycled into perfect beach fireplaces
Model T parts galore
stinky black smoke fires
cow skulls
cow carcasses
grazing cows
rare artifacts
sponging relatives
my burned-out old VW camper
my burned-out VW dune buggy
a 1956 DeSoto with no seats
hordes of gulls, ravens, buzzards, snakes, ratons.....and shadowy glimpses of feral dogs slinking on the fringes, ready to attack the minute your back is turned.

Here you can thrill to the excitement of having seagulls spray you on their bombing runs.

A truly enchanted place that tourists should not overlook.
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AND NOW.....


MULEGE....finally.


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COMING INTO TOWN........

If you survive the many S-turns approaching Mulege from the north, you will eventually come to the fortified entrance to Mulege. Every time I see this new structure I get the urge to yell, Storm the gates! I have heard from reliable sources that the designer is a King Arthur Camelot wanna-be.

I recommend parking in Pancho Anaya’s grocery store lot at the Y and sucking a couple cold ones while admiring this peek into The Dark Ages. After a case of two, it grows on you. You can almost envision the boiling oil pouring onto the milling Black Death victims seeking universal health aid below. Well...I can anyway. Some anejo helps to bring out the colors and screams.
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Pancho (Sr. Anaya) has an excellent view of the village portal from his well-stocked tienda and can relate with you in English, German, and Espanol. When I asked....He preferred to call the country Baja California Sur...thought 'The Baja' was not good grammar.


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Replenishing my Pacifico house supplies at Pancho's, I drive on...and manage to pass unchallenged thru the Portal of Pretense (POP) and come to more familiar surroundings again.

Across the street, I wave at pretty-much-retired mechanic Don Juan sitting in his yard, an old Volkswagen mini-bus behind him. It was left there about 15 years ago ..repaired now and waiting for owner to show up. That's Mulege for you....

A little further down the street, stop to talk to face-masked Koki standing at his barbeque. Try his great cafe for some super BarBQed chicken. La Baja? Sorry...Koki is another 'Baja California Sur' user...



More to come.

[Edited on 6-15-2008 by Pompano]

Pompano,Thanks for the pictures. Mulege is a neat place.

MULEGE RIVER TOUR

Well, it's been a long and winding road back home..full of events, sidetrips and a US return for a memorial. I am almost home now, but first I need to say Hi to Mulege again and buy some house supplies.

Would you all care to come along and see the villages sights, perhaps meet some new amigos? If so, then grab your camera...and trail along.

MULEGE (moo-la-hay) is my chosen Mexican village of 35 years, and a favorite for lots of other Baja aficionados. Lying about 38 miles south of Sta. Rosalia, this is the perfect Baja oasis, complete with thousands of palm trees and multi-colored bougainvilleas filling a large fertile farming valley which leads to the Sea of Cortez. It reminds one of San Ignacio, except that Mulege is located on the coast, which opens up a host of additional options for it's 3,000+ residents and many visitors.
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FIRST VISITORS

The native Cochimi had the place to themselves until it was
'discovered' by foreigners in 1702. The Jesuit mission called Santa Rosalía de Mulege was started in 1705. The origin of the name Mulegé is said to come from the Cochimíes voices "Carmaañc galexá", that means "Large Ravine of the White Mouth".

Padre Francisco Escalante began the formal construction of the church's mission in 1754, and was completed in 1766. Abandoned in 1828, it has been restored several times. Actually it conserves the original appearance and in the interior a statue of Santa Rosalia and a bell, both from the XVII century.

What say we first take a tour of the river from the mission to the lighthouse? Here goes...




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The mission.

The river view from the observation deck next to mission.

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This is the river view from beneath the highway bridge. Many years ago there was a shallow fjord across this shallow part. Mulege used it as a car wash, and us bay dwellers, too.
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Looking upriver towards the highway bridge....
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Heading towards the ocean...

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Gentle waters invite quiet times....

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Pangueros tie up near the mouth...

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I have often thought of restoring this old charter boat....at least once a year for 30 years now.

The lighthouse

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History note: In 1719 the first vessel built in the Californias was launched here, with woods from the mountainous region of Mulege. The construction super was father Juan de Ugarte who called the ship "Triunto de la Santa Cruz". It is said that this ship served Mulege for 54 years.

I wonder what became of that hull? Perhaps a dive adventure there.
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COMING NEXT....
...................MULEGE STREET TOUR

Come along with me..I have to do my shopping and say hello to some old friends.

We have several small, good hotels, some great restaurants, a dive shop, lots of markets, hardware stores, plus several miscellaneous shops. These days, homeowners and tourists alike can find everything in Mulege.

Strolling around Mulege on foot is a great way to drink in the flavor of this charming riverside town! But I am a driver at heart.....so maybe we could take this beauty for a ride? I found it next to the Pemex station outside of Mulege.

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We will stop first here for some tourist information....

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I could introduce you to my latest hitchhiker?...and now Mulege's newest Taliban negotiater and tour guide. Don't say anything about his bonnet...he's touchy about it.

Pompano,Thanks. Looking foreward to the next series.

Mulege Street Tour & Some Amigos

Old Prison...honor system for inmates. Work outside during day, then back in for the night when the bell was rung.

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Lush date palm valley. Good harvests.

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Living above the village assures you of good, clear rooster calls each dawn...and the pleasant smells of woodsmoke.

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Good view of lighthouse and estuary from next to the prison.

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Some foxy chick walking along the empty siesta streets of Mulege. Looks like she is heading for that great gift and clothing store, La Tienda.

One of many gorgeous trees in Mulege. This bougainvilla is at the zocalo..square in el centro.

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Main Street, Mulege.

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Speaking of home...It's about time I got back to the casa. What say we hit the road. It's only 17 more miles...

Go figure...as soon as I start out for the house I see Dimas waving at me from his taco stand in the square.

Sheesh, when will I ever get home?

Okay..just a quick bite and I'm on my way...





[Edited on 6-19-2008 by Pompano]

Hi Pampano...Thank You...Thank You...and Thank You! That was the "best" trip report ever!!. ++C++

Pompano, Thanks for the Mulege pics. Good folks and a good town.

Just so great Roger!!!

Well done!!!

Bravo!!!

Good history, too...

Yes Roger very thorough. Think it will help repopulate the area with tourists and Nomads?

Maybe the Elitists will stay home now that it's(mostly) all been divulged.
You should have shown the pictures of the robbers, bandits, machete wielding Mexicans, crooked cops, famine,disease, misquitos and other hazards in Baja Sur just to balance it out.

But WOW, what a report it was!!