JULY 2012 BAJA TRIP TO THE TIP and beyond! ALL 15 DAYS POSTED!

That is great information... Perhaps some of that was the older road before Mex. 1 was graded and paved in the late 1960's through there? Have you used Google Earth to look at the road you were on?

Thank you for the adding that here!

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Originally posted by David K Quote: Originally posted by wiltonh I know this is a little late but next time you are at El Triunfo, there is a fairly good road to San Antonio that is not highway 1. The road starts on the South end of town and goes behind the old mill site. It follows a valley along a stream bed and then goes up over the ridge. Near the top you hit a brick paved road. If you go left, you end up in San Antonio. If you turn right, you end up at the big micro wave tower on the mountain to the west. That brick road must be about 5 miles or more. Someone built a lot of brick to make that happen. From the micro wave tower there are some very nice views of the ocean and the big island off shore. In San Antonio, you can turn off of highway 1 near the gas station and head up into the mountains. About 2 miles up you go by another old mill site on the left hand side. It is fun to look around also. This road continues a number of miles west where you come to a locked gate with guards. It is an active mining site. There are lots and lots of roads in that area to explore. Some were on my GPS map and some were not. Wilton That is great information... Perhaps some of that was the older road before Mex. 1 was graded and paved in the late 1960's through there? Have you used Google Earth to look at the road you were on? Thank you for the adding that here!

Actually I didn't... not on my machine, but I took it to Costco and after two tries, theirs read it and I made some prints from it that I will scan to show here. Even the duplicate CD that Costco made of yours won't open in my machine???

You take excellent photos Steve! Now, if your camera could only stop making me look so fat and you so thin next to me, then great!

DAY 8a, Todos Santos, San Pedrito

Because we saw so much on this day, I need to break it into a couple of separate posts...




Saturday, July 21st (Day 8)

Today we use the Tacoma to drive the Cabo Loop (go south from La Paz to Cabo San Lucas on the Pacific side via Todos Santos, and return north to La Paz on the gulf side, via Los Barriles). The total miles we drove was this day was 247.

The Todos Santos/ Cabo highway (Mexico #19) has been widened to four lanes except for a few miles around Todos Santos. We do take a side trip in Todos Santos and photograph a wall where anti-mining graffiti was painted (a Canadian company has been trying to open a new gold mine some miles from Todos Santos, but not everyone seems to be in favor of it.

Just a few miles south of Todos Santos we take a dirt road angling to the southwest from the highway and park for the ½ mile walk to the beach of San Pedrito. The walk takes you from pure desert to pure tropical paradise, and soon you could be easily dreaming of a scene from the South Pacific islands. We are after all in the same latitude as Hawaii.

An old ruin near the parking spot was once the villa of a Mexican general and an airstrip was there, too… I will let the photos tell more. Bajatripper can fill in the additional history as it is quite interesting!

Photos:



4 lanes south from La Paz to Cabo, except through Todos Santos.


Protesting a Canadian gold mine project in the mountains northwest of Todos Santos.


Ruins of a Todos Santos sugar mill.


Desert road to a tropical beach, San Pedrito.


Maybe a half mile walk to the beach.


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The general who had a villa at San Pedrito also had facilities for his beach guests. Bajatripper showed me an old photo showing some building here, a refreshment bar and restrooms, I recall?








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Time to head back to the truck…






Ever see a creeping palm tree?




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What I was photographing.

Steve says ‘let’s go look at the general’s villa… first we pass the watchman’s home (it is empty).



















Next, we drive south to Land’s End, Cabo San Lucas… the tip of Baja!

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DAY 8b, CABO SAN LUCAS

It is an easy drive on south to the end of the California peninsula at Cabo San Lucas. When I first came here in 1966, it was a small fish cannery town with a pier and a salt flat that was an airstrip for a lone tourist hotel, the Hacienda. When the Transpeninsular Highway (Mexico #1) was completed in December, 1973 tourism really had an impact on Baja California, and probably nowhere more than right here at the end of the peninsula. The old salt flat runway is now a marina, and the sleepy fishing town is a city with hotels, condos and nightclubs.

Steve and Zully have a treat for us and it was outstanding… a boat ride out to El Arco (The Arch) at the tip of Baja… ‘Land’s End’. There is a secure pay parking area by the docks for the glass bottom boats and water taxis. Soon we were on the water and entertained by our captain who pointed out the sites along the way.

When you go out past the tip and look back at the arch and the splashing waves, it is quite an experience. Lot’s of photos and back after 45 minutes… very fun. We have lunch at Cavendish’s by the docks… all good food and drink!

Photos:


Entering ‘Cabo’ on Hwy. 19.




We drive up to the Hotel Finisterra for photos.












Several interestingly named boats are for hire!


We get a good one!


The English pirate Cavendish is waiting for the Spanish ship Santa Ana to poke around the cape!




Plenty of colorful fish down there.




Rock is the Baja peninsula, upside-down.


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We sure appreciated this ride… what a treat! Thank you Steve and Zully!


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There it is!


















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It’s a dragon taking a drink!




Only fitting that such a fantastic peninsula have such a dramatic ending!


Do you see the horse’s head?




Mango Margaritas seem like a natural choice for our lunch beverage.



We leave Cabo San Lucas, and can only go north from there, but on Highway #1 back to La Paz. See the rest of today’s adventures, coming up next (El Tule, San Jose del Cabo, Santiago, Las Cuevas)!

DAY 8c: El Tule, San Jose del Cabo, Santiago, Las Cuevas Bat Cave

We leave Cabo on Highway #1 and head northeast past many resorts and condos towards San Jose del Cabo. Along the way, we turn off the four lane highway to El Tule beach. El Tule is a rare, undeveloped piece of beach here in the Los Cabos region of Baja.

At the entrance to San Jose del Cabo, we take the right fork and go to the estuary for a walk along the water and palms. A totally unexpected place of serenity surrounded by so much development. The dirt path was patrolled by police, each riding (standing) on a Segway. The southernmost California Spanish mission was first established here by the estuary in 1730, Mission San Jose del Cabo was perhaps more important to provide water and fresh fruit to the ships of the Manila Galleon which sailed right off this coast on their way to Acapulco, with treasures from the Orient.

The mission site was moved several times until the final site, which is in the town plaza, where a newer church replaced the ruined mission church here. Last photographed about 94 years ago, see the photo of it before being demolished.

San Jose del Cabo has old colonial style, narrow streets and are all one way. It takes us some effort to drive in front of the church for photos, and no place there to park. A tiled mosaic above the church entrance illustrates the murder of a Jesuit priest by the natives during the Pericu Indian uprising of 1734. All four of the southernmost missions were temporarily abandoned during this revolt (La Paz, Todos Santos, Santiago and San Jose del Cabo).

Highway #1 is four lanes until reaching the Los Cabos International Airport, then it is two lanes past farm towns that include Santa Anita, where the bus station next to the highway looks like an old home seen in photos of the past. We stop and talk with one person who lived there for over 50 years and says this building was there at least as long. It had very thick walls, as typical of early construction.

Several miles north, the highway crosses the Tropic of Cancer and a monument consisting of a large white globe, marks the spot. Just beyond is the paved side road into Santiago, a tropical village at the final site of California’s tenth Spanish mission dating back to 1724. A modern church is built on the site, right on the paved road through town. The pavement ends at the Santiago Zoo, which despite protests by animal advocates, remains open and a popular place for family visits.

Some five miles north of Santiago is Las Cuevas, ‘The Caves’ . Access them by driving under the Highway #1 bridge, over the Santiago riverbed and a mile or so up it. The large cave is on the east side of the arroyo and in the entrance are beehives, way high up. Inside are bats, lots of bats! What a great tour Bajatripper has given us (again) today!

On our way back to La Paz, we take some photos of the fishing boats off Los Barriles and the town of San Antonio from a view point along the highway. This has been an incredible day with so much sites and experiences!

The photos:


El Tule (between Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo)













At El Estero de San Jose del Cabo:










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See the top of the ‘mission’/church, in town above the estero plants.


The beach sand, at the other end of the estero.




The modern church on the final mission location.


Tile mosaic of the Pericu Indians murdering Padre Tamaral.]


1918-1919 era photo of Mission San Jose del Cabo, the 12th California mission, est. 1730.


Santa Anita bus depot, but an very old home dating back many years.


My Toyota Tacoma on the Tropic of Cancer in Baja California Sur, Mexico.


My wife on the Tropic of Cancer, silly girl!


Modern Santiago church on the final site of the 1724 Jesuit founded California mission, it was number 10 of the 48 total California missions.




At the zoo, we turn around and head back to Highway #1, to continue north.



Las Cuevas and the Bat Cave:





The next six photos are looking up, at the ceiling:













BT photo




Nearing Los Barriles on the Bahia las Palmas, East Cape of Baja California Sur.






Looking down on San Antonio from a view point.



That wraps up DAY 8 (Saturday, July 21, 2012)… Stay tuned for DAY 9 (diving with sea lions off the islands in the Sea of Cortez)!

Exactly Woody, there are so many water taxis taking folks (kids) out to the isolated beaches... and they all looked to be having lots of fun. I did not see any norteamericano tourists there or most anywhere on our trip. The exception was Los Barriles, otherwise it was like Baja was many years ago... before being 'discovered'.

Of course, David, you realize that these are my "B" tours that I give to visiting Republicans. I save the really good stuff down here for my liberal friends

You've done a really nice job of merging contemporary Baja with its history, an approach I also favor. Great photos, David and we all appreciate the great effort it has taken you to assemble it all here for everyone to enjoy.

Quote:

Originally posted by Bajatripper Quote: What a great tour Bajatripper has given us (again) today! Of course, David, you realize that these are my "B" tours that I give to visiting Republicans. I save the really good stuff down here for my liberal friends You've done a really nice job of merging contemporary Baja with its history, an approach I also favor. Great photos, David and we all appreciate the great effort it has taken you to assemble it all here for everyone to enjoy.

Well your 'B tour' for us (who believe in less government and more freedom) rates an A+!

I enjoy doing trip reports because it allows me to relive the trip one more time, and I know how much I enjoy others' trip reports here!

Nomads:
The trip is just over HALF WAY through... if you liked what I have posted thus far, the rest should really have you ready to pack your 4x4 and head to Baja!

DAY 9 Isla Espiritu Santo and Restaurant Tres Virgenes

Sunday, July 22, 2012 (Day 9)

Today is our ‘island day’ featuring a boat ride from La Paz north to Isla Espiritu Santo and Isla Partida at the north end. We enjoy the scenery of La Paz from the bay and of El Mogote with its failed hotel and housing development (El Mogote is the sand bar peninsula facing the city of La Paz). Next, we go past Pichilingue and the now abandoned U.S. Navy coaling station that operated here from 1866 to 1925. A bit past Pichiligue is Bahia Balandra with its popular ‘mushroom rock’ we visited from land on Friday. Next we zoom across the San Lorenzo Channel to Isla Espiritu Santo. On the southwest coast of the island is Bahia San Gabriel with its ruins of a pearl oyster farm from the early 1900’s. We cannot beach the boat because of the rocks, so we go over the side and swim to shore to have a closer look at the immense rock works there.

With some effort (mostly on my part), we get back into the boat and continue to the north end of the island and its nearly connected twin, Isla Partida. Here are many boats bringing people to some clear water shared by sea lions… and we put on masks and fins and go in!

It was the highlight of the day to swim with the tropical fish and the thrill of the day (for me) when a sea lion came within ten feet of me, showing its teeth! There is a fine line where the sea lions don’t want the humans any closer to their spot, and that is fine with me! Following our dive time, we and other boats went to a nearby beach to have lunch and swim in the sand bottom bay.

On the way back to La Paz, we stop to have a close look at a set of cliff caves called ’the mask’, and the photos will illustrate why the name. The first Spanish sailors to come to California should have been warned by it, as most of them died in their attempt to land at La Paz. They were unwelcome by the Pericu natives, and the leader Fortun Jimenez and 22 of his crew were killed when they landed to take on water. The survivors sailed back to the mainland and word eventually reached Cortes about the ’island’ they discovered, rich with pearls… The following year (1535), Cortes personally came to La Paz, (he named the bay ’Santa Cruz’) to start a colony and harvest the black pearls. The colony failed and most did not survive the two years it was reported to have lasted.

This was a wonderful day and it sure was the icing on the cake of our time in La Paz, thanks to Steve and Zully! It was only fitting for us to take them out to dinner at the famous resturant ‘Las Tres Virgenes’ (alta cocina peninsular) owned by a friend and fellow Baja Nomad, ‘Jesse’. Here is what I posted on Facebook:

We were in La Paz last month and came to Las Tres Virgenes with our La Paz friends Steve and Zully. The service and the food were OUTSTANDING, AAA#1. I am telling all my Baja bound friends that when in La Paz, they should treat themselves to a dinner here! My wife had the rib-eye and it was more of a prime rib and she said was easily the best she has ever eaten. Between the four of us, we could sample several offerings. The lamb taco appetizer was an awesome start to a great meal. My hat's off to Jesse and his brother Pedro for an outstanding restaurant and I only wish it wasn't 900 miles away from my home! The address is Madero 1130, Colonia Central C.P. 23000 La Paz BCS, Mexico. This is just a couple blocks up the hill from the Malecon, and north of the church. Telephone (612)123-2226 and they have a Facebook page, where I just posted the above comments.

Sadly, Jesse wasn’t there, but his brother Pedro took good care of us and got Jesse on the phone so I could chat with him. It was a repeat of the last time I came to his restaurant (in Tijuana, back in 2006) and he was gone that day, but I spoke to him then on the phone.

Well, it was a fantastic time in La Paz and the Cape region the past four full days. Tomorrow we head back north with plans to overnight at Bahia Concepcion and then head out the Vizcaino Peninsula to meet Blanca and Les at La Bocana then return to Shari and Juan’s bed and breakfast at Bahia Asuncion.

Enjoy the photos for Sunday, Day 9:


Leaving La Paz, some pretty large yachts are passed.


Looking back at La Paz, see the church steeples?


The doomed development on El Mogote.


El Mogote housing… expect them to me gone during the next big hurricane.


La Paz gets smaller as we cruise north.


American Navy coaling station, closed in 1925.






The truck and car ferry returning to La Paz from the mainland.


The mushroom rock as seen from the sea.


Crossing the San Lorenzo Channel.


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The San Gabriel pearl-oyster ruins of the early 1900’s, on Isla Espiritu Santo.


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Steve, Zully, Jorge, Nikki


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Returning to our boat.


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Frigates and their nesting area.


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Several sea lions along the island’s coast.




Clear sea water.





Nearing the snorkeling area we join many other boats.






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After our snorkeling experience, we cruised over to a sand beach on the island for lunchtime.


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Fishermen’s huts on the island.


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A popular stop is to see the ‘mask’.


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Heading back to La Paz!


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Such a great day, thank you Steve ’Bajatripper’ and Zully!

Tomorrow we head north for more fun, Baja style!
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In his post, David mentioned that "Espiritu Santo Island" consists of two islands very close together. Espiritu Santo Island is the larger and southernmost of the two while Partida Island is to its north. Some years ago I had the chance to climb a hill overlooking the channel separating the two and took the following photos from Espiritu Santo Island looking over ar Partida Island.

This is the western entrance to Caleta Partida, as the channel is named. It's a popular anchorage for yachters and also has three fisherman camps


This photo is of the narrowest part of the channel. At low tide, one can't get a power boat through without shutting down the engine and pushing/pulling the boat through the narrow channel


The eastern entrance to Caleta Partida


If you look closely at the waters along the opposite shore, you will see two rings of rock under water that archaeologists say are ancient fishtraps which allowed fish in at high tide and--if they didn't leave before the tides changed--were trapped within the circles.


A closeup of one of the fishcamps, where I spent several days interviewing fishermen


The fishcamp on the opposite side, on Partida Island


[Edited on 8-8-2012 by Bajatripper]

as i was about to ask....

DAY 10, North to Ligui, Loreto, and Bahia Concepcion

Monday, July 23, 2012 (Day 10)

We have a final look at the beautiful back yard of Bajatripper’s and say our goodbyes to Steve and Zully. We are on the road at 9:30am and head out of La Paz. There is no inspection at the checkpoint outside of town, as we are waved on through. About 70 miles from La Paz is a small town of Las Pocitas and I spot some interesting furniture on display, so we stop. It is the shop of Manuel and he permits me to take photos of his arts and crafts display. One item of interest is an artillery shell form Bahia Magdalena. Bajatripper had told me about how the U.S. Navy practiced shelling one of the islands of Magdalena Bay (without Mexico’s approval), many years ago.

We are back on the road at 11:15am. I note the the road to Mission San Luis Gonzaga is at Km. 195 ½ and would like to see it in person one day, but I know we need to keep moving in order to set up camp before dark tonight. The 14th California mission (est. in 1737) will have to wait until the next trip!

We enter Ciudad Constitucion and the highway becomes a divided multi lane affair at Km. 209. There have been repeated reports of hungry city cops issuing tickets for the slightest or even no altercations. This was our second time passing through this city on this trip, and no police were even seen, let alone provided us any harassment either time. The highway to Puerto San Carlos is at Km. 212 and we soon are out of Constitucion. The highway remains 4 lanes wide for the next 16 miles to Ciudad Insurgentes, where Highway #1 turns to the east to cross over to the gulf coast. It is 12:31 at Insurgentes, as we keep moving back into the desert.

I see lots of pitahaya dulce cactus, but the fruit is not yet mature. We pull off to take photos and see a dead cow, that is mostly bones. Elizabeth wants to save the horns, she doesn’t ask for much. Not too much further we reach the top of the sierra, and the steep drop down to the coast. Ligüí is not far from the bottom of the grade, so we pull off at Km. 84 ½ (by the school) and drive 0.6 mile to the monument to the 3rd California Spanish mission, San Juan Bautista de Ligüí/ Malibat (est. in 1705).

The mission foundation was totally washed away in 2001 by the changing arroyo, I took photos of the rubble back then. By 2009, on my next visit, people erected a cross and a parking area just beyond were the mission once stood, as a monument. Today we find that the arroyo has widened more and has started eating away at the new memorial site!

There is a new grave across the road from the memorial park. We continue the half mile more to the beach of Playa Ligüí and see some property owner has almost made the beach unreachable with his new fence right up to the palapas at this Playa Publica. We continue on from Ligüí at 2 pm and arrive in Loreto at 2:30. First order is to top off the gas tank, as it has been 228 miles since La Paz. It takes 600 pesos to fill with 59.7 liters. Now with nearly all of those miles on the highway, my mileage would typically be 17-18 mpg with the load I am carrying. My first clue that the pumps at this Loreto Pemex (on the highway, by the entrance to town) are not accurate is the mileage with that many liters was only 14.4 mpg. When I filled up in La Paz after driving south, my mileage was 16.8 mpg. Oh well, nothing to do, the gas is still a great deal at $2.95 a gallon.

Just a mile north, on the west side of the highway, is the great fruit restaurant El Cañaveral, run by ‘Charlie’. We each order the fruit salad (again) and I also try the Liquado de Mamey which is a smoothie made with the mamey sapote. What is a mamey sapote? Well, it is native to southern Mexico and Central America, and is the national fruit of Cuba (either for the sweet taste or that it is red inside)! http://fruitmaven.com/2012/04/mamey-sapote/ and http://livefoodexperience.wordpress.com/2009/08/13/mamey-sap...
Are a couple of web sites showing them. I described the mamey liquido like a cross between a chocolate and vanilla milk shake. Yum!! We also had a serving of coconut horchata to cleanse the palate.

It is 55 miles from Loreto to Playa La Perla on Concepcion Bay. Along the way is a military checkpoint, with the typical questions and search and then we saw several huge dust devils to the west of the highway.

We arrived at La Perla on Bahia Concepcion about sunset. The other family that was there last week were gone, we were all alone… until a seagull made himself our friend and actually would take food from Elizabeth’s hand! It took a while, mind you… but it was pretty cool.

Monday’s photos:


On the road again!


Stopped here in Las Positas.
















U.S. Navy shelling a Baja island, maybe 100 years ago?


Entering Ciudad Constitucion


Pitahaya dulce cactus. Sweet pitaya/pitahaya cactus fruit.






Pitahaya agria cactus. Despite the name (Sour pitaya), its fruit is also excellent.






Back to the Cortez side we go!











The only fork driving towards the mission and beach of Ligüí. To the right goes to Ensenada Blanca.


The monument to the washed away mission ruin is also soon to wash away.












Playa Ligüí, A 180º panorama begins here, looking south and swings around to the north…













The Sierra de la Giganta.




This used to be a lagoon and island called Nopolo, I swam here in 1973. Now, it’s a golf course.


This Jeep at the entrance to Loreto must have a story?


Loreto is just a few kilometers away from these other Baja towns.


Back at the Fruteria El Cañaveral, just north of the Loreto entrance road.








The south end of Bahia Concepcion.


The old Baja main road, carved into the hillside at Bahia Concepcion.


Driving into Playa La Perla, we use some of the old main Baja highway. This was the road to La Paz before 1970 when the new highway roadbed was built from Loreto north to Santa Rosalia. The entire new highway was completed in late 1973.















Tomorrow, we drive across to the Pacific coast of Baja, and meet new friends at La Bocana and see old friends at Bahia Asuncion!
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A little bit of Baja Delight

Close, but no cigar. According to a sign that use to be with the jeep at its old location on the turnoff to San Javier, the story of the jeep (loosely translated) is as follows:


"June 26, 1997 year of our Lord.
This jeep belonged to the priest don Modesto Sanchez Mayon. He arrived in Loreto on Nov. 29, 1947. This vehicle was a useful instrument in the reconstruction of the Mission of Loreto, BCS, which was completed in 1955. It was the first vehicle to reach San Javier by this road (the old road between Loreto and San Javier up the Las Parras Arroyo) on Nov. 26, 1952. The town of Loreto (has placed it here?) to commemorate the 10th anniversary of his (don Modesto's) passing on June 26, 1987.
Loreto, BCS. 300 years of evangelicalism and culture"

The old location of the jeep at the turnoff to San Javier


The sign that use to accompany the jeep, telling its story


[Edited on 8-9-2012 by Bajatripper]

DAY 11: to La Bocana and Bahia Asuncion

Tuesday, July 24, 2012 (Day 11)

Our camp is pretty easy to pack onto the Tacoma, and this new easy-up tent is great. We leave La Perla at 9am and drive out on the El Requeson road, since we are northbound. We take photos of some views of Bahia Concepcion and of a highway crew painting new stripes on fresh pavement. Next we pass through Mulege, without stopping and the same for Santa Rosalia. We have a long drive to get out to La Bocana and Bahia Asuncion, on the Vizcaino Peninsula. That is the big point or ‘hook’ of land that sticks out into the Pacific, halfway down the peninsula of Baja California.

Both La Bocana and Bahia Asuncion have bed and breakfast establishments operated by members of the Baja Nomad forums on the Internet. We have stayed at Bahia Asuncion once before (in 2007), and were looking forward to seeing the additions made there, since. The town of Bahia Asuncion has become very popular with Americans and Canadians who heard about it on Baja Nomad, and came for the fantastic fishing or just a quiet get-away, in a small Mexican town.

As we pass north of Santa Rosalia, and we get a photo of the new pier being built for the new mines openening up there for copper and manganese. New discoveries and a rising copper price will pump life into this former French copper mining town, on Mexico’s Baja coast.

The steep grade ‘Cuesta del Infierno’ was being widened and repaved and we were one of the first to drive on the new pavement heading up the grade on this day. The narrow, shoulder-less Baja Highway, finished in 1973, is slowly being modernized to a wider highway with shoulders having enough room to allow bikes or pedestrians safe space from the trucks, busses, and cars the highway was built for. It also allows for broken down vehicles to not totally block a lane of traffic.

We arrive in San Ignacio at 11:14 am and fill up the gas tank for the long drive from here. It is 163 miles since I filled up in Loreto, so I need a half a tank to top it off (40.3 liters/10.6 gallons), cost is 405 pesos ($31.40).

The highway to Punta Abreojos joins Highway #1, 14.5 miles west of San Ignacio at Km. 97 ½ and the road is paved all the way to Abreojos now, 65.5 miles. In 2007, the pavement ended about 10 miles from town.

We arrive in Punta Abreojos and miss seeing the road on to La Bocana, so we turn around at the end of town (built on a point) and spot the north road that drops down onto the salt flat… which is smoother than the graded dirt road, we missed at the entrance to town. Of course, after a real big high tide, you don’t want to use the salt flat! We leave Abreojos at 12:45pm and have an easy drive for 12.6 miles to the La Bocana Bed & Breakfast run by Blanca and Les www.labocanahotel.com located on the west side of town with a clear view of the Pacific, beyond the expanse of low dunes.

We are invited to see their rooms and then asked if we would like some chicken stroganoff… Why yes, thank you! Their newest and biggest room is quite the accommodation. I called it the ‘Deluxe room’ and took several pictures. We had lunch and there was even some chocolate/lemon cake for dessert. When I offered to pay for the great meal, she declined, but I said, “for the children”… (Blanca has been helping the village children get and do things that can make a difference in their fishing village lives).

We left La Bocana at 3:12pm and after missing the correct street out of town, found it (maybe the only 4 way stop sign intersection in La Bocana) with a small sign for Asuncion. The road now is a graded dirt road and had recently been graded, so the drive was pretty fast. A new water pipeline is being placed in a trench along the road nearly the entire distance to Asuncion.

We reach the paved highway to Bahia Asuncion (at Km. 34), just 3 miles from town, and 44.7 miles from La Bocana, at 4:35pm. Juan & Shari’s Bed & Breakfast is on the far side of town, on the point with a clear view of Asuncion Island. Take the left fork at the Fisherman Monument where the entrance road splits, then work your way over the rise to the other side of the point. To go any further past their B&B, you would be in the ocean! www.bahiaasuncion.com . Shari was there when we drove up and showed us the new ‘Rock room’ added since our last visit. It is actually two rooms, available together or separately, so it is great for a family with children. Another new room was nearly finished on the other side of Shari’s house, the ‘Dolphin room’ with great views. Upstairs will be another addition, in the near future. For dinner, Shari makes us abalone burgers! Food from the sea is her specialty and you would be hard pressed to find a more pleasant and accommodating host. Shari came to Baja from Canada to study the whales and marine life, over 20 years ago. She has made Baja her home, speaks Spanish like a native, and married to a local fisherman from the famous Arce family that date back to the time of Spanish soldiers who guarded the missions. Shari’s daughter (born in Baja) and son-in-law help operate their campground in Bahia Asuncion, and are raising Shari’s grandson, now about 2 years old! During the whale breeding season (Feb.-Apr.), Shari offers guided tours and whale watching from boats on the lagoon ‘Ojo de Liebre’ (Scammon’s Lagoon). The gray whales swim right past her home, as well as they migrate to and from the Bering Sea, off Alaska.


Here are today’s photos:


Leaving Playa La Perla and there is the sand isthmus of El Requeson.


We camped there in 2007 http://vivabaja.com/707


One of the most photographed beaches on Bahia Concepcion is El Coyote.






The highway offers many great views of this big bay and the islands it holds.








Elizabeth was fascinated with how they painted stripes on the highway.






There is the Mulege mission in the distance, past the highway bridge, over the river. The mission was named Santa Rosalia de Mulege and was the 4th Spanish California mission, founded in 1705. The stone church we see today was constructed beginning in 1766.









Mulege is often known as the ‘Hawaii of Baja’.


New mine pier north of Santa Rosalia.


It was dirt last week, but we get to drive on new pavement going back up the Cuesta del Infierno grade.




The distance from San Ignacio (540 miles) which is just 10 miles south of the halfway point between Tijuana and Cabo San Lucas (1,059 miles) on Highway #1.


Just south of Highway #1, on the Punta Abreojos highway, the old main road is crossed… so naturally, I turn onto it for a photo! This was the main road to La Paz from Tijuana before 1973. I traveled on this road with my parents in our Jeep in 1966... When driving in Baja was a REAL adventure!




Arriving in Abreojos, a new Pemex gas station is not yet open, up ahead.



Ospreys make their nests on any high object.


The fast road to La Bocana… If the ice caps begin melting, then this would not be an option!


The front of Blanca and Les’ bed and breakfast in La Bocana.


The view from the porch.


Blanca and Elizabeth.


Nice place for a meal or drink, out of the sun and wind.


The Deluxe room.








View of La Bocana.




Blanca takes us on a tour of town. Here is where the fishermen launch their boats (pangas).


The school… our friend Antonio’s (‘Baja Cactus’ of El Rosario) father was the principle here, many years ago. Probably not the same building.




The road out from La Bocana, northwest to Asuncion.




New water pipeline, coming over 100 miles from wells at Vizcaino.




We made it, the Blowhole Bed and Breakfast at Bahia Asuncion.


Shari shows us the new Rockroom, and we get to stay there for two nights!




The view from one side of the Rockroom.


The other side view.


Shari makes jewelry.




The future upstairs room.


The Blowhole.




Hard to beat the view here, and listening to the sea lions barking from the island!





Tomorrow, we go hunting for fossils, including shark’s teeth from the dinosaur age.

================================================================

DAY 12: Relaxing and Fossil Hunting

Wednesday, July 25, 2012 (Day 12)

We had a fantastic, restful sleep in the Rock room… great mattress and the sound of waves and sea lions were great ‘white noise’ affects! Shari serves us lobster omelets for breakfast and it is a super relaxing day with no rushing and no long driving. Ever since our first time at Asuncion, we have wanted to return to do some fossil hunting. Megalodon teeth http://www.the-shark-side-of-life.com/megalodon-shark.html
have been found in the hills near Bahia Asuncion and we were anxious to have a look in the badlands a few miles away. In fact, it was a request from Elizabeth to go so we could have a look, so think of this side trip to Asuncion as her anniversary present! Yah, I am willing to do things my wife likes… like a good husband! Okay honey, if that’s what you really want to do, I will go four wheeling for you and look for fossils. LOL

What was a surprise is that not long after picking one place to start looking, Elizabeth found a tooth! Way to go Baja Angel! We just enjoyed looking at the hills and scanning the ground, and at another location, she found another… and I found one. It wasn’t as nice as hers, and was broken, but still it was fun. There also were lots of tube shaped pieces that looked light rusty ½ inch galvanized pipe. Shari would tell us later that they were coral fossils.

We spent all afternoon out there and it was fun, just Elizabeth and I wondering about and comparing discoveries. I placed them on my tailgate to photograph before leaving them and the badlands behind as we returned to Shari’s home and our ‘Rock room’. We met Baja Nomads ‘Nan & D’ (Nancy and David) who live at Asuncion full time now. They came over to check out the new dolphin room. Nancy is an artist who has paintings, coffee mugs and other creative works on display at Juan and Shari‘s. For dinner we were fed lobster burritos and had a second great sleep.

Today’s photos:


Lobster, it’s not just for dinner anymore!


Asuncion Badlands


The first tooth was just to the left of my truck and about halfway down the slope. Look for shiny ‘stones’ that stand out from the rest.




Whale bones are included.


At another location, under a shrub, I found this.


Elizabeth is a far better hunter than I. She tells me, not so fast… look slowly.


Sitting right on the ledge in front of her, a beauty.


The third area we moved to, and as Elizabeth opens the truck door, a tooth is right on the ground where she steps out.


Fossil coral are the tube shaped pieces.

So, don’t be in a hurry when hunting for petrified sharks’ teeth. We were out in the badlands for about 4-5 hours, having a great time… but we only found about 4-5 teeth and a couple of them were not whole, and none were the big megalodon teeth.


What a relaxing place Juan and Shari have here. So many have also discovered Bahia Asuncion thanks to Shari getting onto Baja Nomad and really boosting the entire town’s economy in doing so.


In our room were some Baja books, and this one had an interesting cave shown.


It also gave a location and we would be in the area, tomorrow!
=============================================================================

DAY 13: To Mision Santa Gertrudis

Thursday, July 26, 2012 (Day 13-a)

Today we awake after another great sleep, and we even asked for a wake up call so we wouldn’t sleep in too long. Not long after we are up and dressed did Shari deliver waffles with real Canadian maple syrup and fruit. It was great…!

The goal today is to go from the Pacific side of Baja over to the gulf side, and this being the widest part of the peninsula and over half on dirt roads, we had some ground to cover. However, this is a site seeing vacation and we hope to see the 1752 Spanish mission of Santa Gertrudis, the ghost town of Pozo Aleman, the giant cave art site as shown in the book we saw yesterday, and to camp at Punta San Francisquito.

Take a look at the route map, and we are going from the far left side, across to the right side of Baja:




For those not familiar with the central part of Baja California, here is the peninsula map I posted earlier with the places we over-night’ed shown:



I made a road log, starting at Shari and Juan’s Bed & Breakfast on the west side of the point at Bahia Asuncion:

00.0 Juan & Shari’s 10:36am
00.9 Fork at fisherman monument, in town.
01.1 Miramar Market, Gas Pump
01.2 Police Station, Curvina Street (road to San Roque)
01.4 Divided street, Campo Sirena access.
01.7 End divided street, town entrance.
04.7 (Km.34) Road to Punta Prieta, La Bocana, Punta Abreojos
25.2 (Km.0) Junction with Vizcaino-Bahia Tortugas highway 11:05am. Turn east.
70.0 Vizcaino at Highway #1 12:00pm. Gas station is 0.3 mile to the north.

The highway to Vizcaino is 90% good pavement, but the 10% of big pot holes can really ruin the whole road, if you let it. There is also some drift sand that covers one lane in a few places. Just lower your speed, and all will be fine.

00.0 Vizcaino at Bahia Tortugas Junction. Turn north.
06.5 Turn onto dirt road, signed to Guillermo Prieto 23 km., but I measured it at 20 km. 12:22pm. We stop for a break a ways ahead and make sandwiches (PB&J).
18.4 Mision Santa Gertrudis sign, pointing a left turn.
19.0 Center of Guillermo Prieto (‘Dark William’), seems to be abandoned. Continue straight north.
30.1 The state border between Baja California and Baja California Sur. Also a change from Mountain Time to Pacific Time. A fence is parallel to the border, about 80 feet north, per my GPS.
32.6 Intersection: Left to El Arco; Ahead to Punta San Francisquito; Right (signed) to Santa Gertrudis. 12:50pm/ Pacific Time. Reset odometer.

00.0 Intersection
00.6 Rancho Miraflores (made famous in Graham Mackintosh’s second book, ‘Journey with a Baja Burro’, thanks to Graham’s burro, ‘Mision’)
11.0 Mision Santa Gertrudis (1752), on a level bench above a palm filled oasis. 1:14pm.

The mission church was locked and there seemed to be nobody in the village. A Mexican family with their SUV was parked at the oasis having lunch as we drove by. I guessed them to be visitors, as well. I took lots of photos of the stone church, and its unique separate bell tower. The present church was completed by the Dominicans in 1796. The Franciscans were here 5 years, before moving on to Alta California in 1773. The mission founding Jesuits were here until 1768, when the king of Spain ordered them all removed from New Spain. This mission was planned as far back as 1745 to be called Dolores del Norte, but when funds were available in 1748 with the closing of Mision San Jose del Cabo, the name was changed to honor the benefactor’s wife. Construction of the first adobe buildings started in 1751, a year before a priest was available to man the new mission. The mission was abandoned in 1822, but some families continued to live here.

In 1997, the mission was greatly renovated, and some of its historic charm was lost, on the interior changes. Today there are displays and exhibits on the area history, including a mine cart, perhaps from Pozo Aleman, where we go to next!

Here is a close up, detailed map of the route from Highway #1, just north of Vizcaino to Guillermo Prieto, the state border, then east 11 miles to Santa Gertudis:




The photos for Day 13-a:












Is this the Vizcaino Desert American Consulate?






Baja tailgate party! PB&Js with ice cold Tecates.


It is a great, fast dirt road to Guillermo Prieto, and on to the border, too.




Guillermo Prieto, 11 years ago it was full of people and kids were playing.






Ball-Moss (Gallito) attaches to many shrubs and cactus in central Baja.




On the 28º parallel of latitude, the state border between Baja California and Baja California Sur, also a time zone change.


My truck at the fence line, just 80 feet inside Baja ‘Norte’.


Looking south into Baja ‘Sur’.


2.5 miles north of the border is the intersection with signs pointing to the mission.




All the roads I am on today are good and only 2WD is used.






The information is very incorrect… another sign, much faded is closer with a founding date given of 1751. It was 1752, per direct mission texts and letters.






































In the next part, we go to the old gold mine ghost town of Pozo Aleman, where some people lived in man made caves.
===============================================================

DAY 13-b, to Pozo Aleman

Day 13-b: To Pozo Aleman (German Well)

We left Mision Santa Gertrudis and came back out the 11 miles to the 4 way intersection. The left road goes back to Highway #1 (26 miles), and was the way we came in. The right hand road continues northward for 12.3 miles to the Punta San Francisquito and Bahia de los Angeles road. We go straight across on the road west to El Arco.

In 5.5 miles, the graded El Arco road bends to the left slightly where the older, Pozo Aleman road continues straight. It is 2:04pm, so we have plenty of summer daylight still ahead. In a few miles we come to some interesting geology and several other roads going to mine claims, perhaps. I expect this road to go right to Pozo Aleman, as the map shows, but instead it meets the El Arco-San Francisquito road just to the east of Pozo Aleman. It has been 4.4 miles from the El Arco/Santa Gertrudis road.

In just 0.4 mile going west, we are at the ‘driveway’ into Pozo Aleman that passes the cemetery. It is 0.7 mile to Pozo Aleman from the graded road. There are several abandoned ruins of adobe and wood homes, as well as the underground homes seen in a 1910 photograph here. There is one rather large home across the gully from the others, and it looks to be occupied, but we see nobody.

There is plenty to look at here and then at the cemetery before we continue our drive east. We leave Pozo Aleman at 3:05pm and are hopeful we can find the big painted cave we saw in the book at Shari’s (I also have seen photos of it on Baja Nomad from at least two other people). To not cause any grief, I will not publish the mileages or GPS of the road to the painted cave. See it in the next part of the trip report.

Map of the area, and mileages on the roads we used, between stars. The 4.4 mile road actually ended 0.4 mile east of Pozo Aleman (not shown on map).




Fork, 16.5 miles from Santa Gertrudis: El Arco left/ Pozo Aleman right.


This is the kind of road I like to drive in Baja!

























1910 photo.
























This building is half in the hillside, I walk over to the roof to look down inside.


Looks like parts of an old truck in there.













Next we try and find the Cave of El Arco…

=================================================================

The Big Painted Cave of Fours +2 (El Arco Cave)

Day 13-c

We leave Pozo Aleman at 3:05pm and take the graded road for some miles until I spot a side road with lots of travel. It ends in just ¾ of a mile at a turn around, next to the side of a big hill. A close look up the hill and I see a cave. From the turn around, a well worn foot trail heads up the hillside. Obviously many folks have been here, perhaps tours. Along the trail, near the cave is a carved Elephant tree with the name ‘Arce’ and the year ‘1990’, perhaps when it was discovered? The site is a major painted cave, yet Harry Crosby did not include it in his books cataloging the hundreds of central Baja California painted caves. Crosby researched his cave paintings book in the 1970’s, so perhaps this one (near El Arco) had indeed not yet been discovered?

We take many photos at the cave and we note that it contains paintings of 4 men, 4 women, 4 deer, 4 fish and 2 dark figures with one wearing a ‘hat’. So, we call it ‘the cave of fours, plus 2’! Some of the images are faint and painted over others… so take your time and study the art here or in my photos… A most exciting site on our great 15 Day Baja vacation. On our way back down the trail we photograph some boojum trees, some pitahaya dulce, and more ball moss. We are back to the Tacoma and driving again at 5:00pm. It is summer, and the sun is still well up in the sky.

Our goal is Punta San Francisquito where a beautiful beach is located I camped at back in 1983...

Photos:


The El Arco/ Punta San Francisquito road is fast and easy to drive.




Ball moss.


The painted cave is up there.


The trail is easy to follow, and only gets steep near the cave.


The Pitahaya Dulce or Organ Pipe Cactus was the source of much joy to the Cochimi Indians when its fruit ripened in the fall.


The cave… getting closer!


Looking back down the trail.


We can see the giant paintings.























The only sign at the site…














I spot a boojum tree (cirio) about my height… They can grow to 60 feet or more.







The base of the tall boojums.


Here are some young pitahaya fruit. In a couple more months they will be ripe for eating.



We return to the road to Punta San Francisquito and continue east as the sun slowly drops in the west.

=======================================================================

13-d: To Punta San Francisquito and Bahia San Rafael.

Day 13-d

The painted cave was just plain awesome, and another of the Wonders of Baja that keep us going back, no matter how much the American media attempts to scare us away from Mexico!

I did some more research into this cave site, as it is one of the grand ones. It would surprise me if a rancher named Arce was the first to find it, in 1990. I have both versions of Harry Crosby’s ‘The Cave Paintings of Baja California’ (1975 & 1997). In the newer Sunbelt edition, I found it mentioned on pages 236 and 237. This cave was seen by Leon Diguet in 1895, who called it ‘The Cave of el Carmen’, but the location was not exact (Diguet said it was between Calmallí and Santa Gertrudis) and Crosby never found it during his travels to the painted caves.

We left the parking area for the cave hike at 5:00pm and we still had 2-3 hours of light to get there and set up our camp, we didn’t know it yet, but Punta San Francisquito would not turn out to be the ideal camp spot as I had envisioned.

Here is a road log and comments from Pozo Aleman to Punta San Francisquito:

00.0 Pozo Aleman entrance at graded road between El Arco and San Francisquito (approx. 2.5 miles from El Arco).

00.4 Road right to/from Mision Santa Gertrudis (20.9 miles).

07.0 Road left to La Unión ranch.

09.5 Cross El Camino Real, the mission road built in the 1700’s here between Mision Santa Gertrudis and Mision San Borja. To the left, it has been turned into an auto road to La Unión. To the right, just a straight trail to the southeast. See map.

13.2 Road south to Guillermo Prieto and Highway #1 (near Vizcaino) in 38 miles. It crosses the Mision Santa Gertrudis road in 12.3 miles (12.8 per the Baja Almanac).

14.9 Piedra Blanca, a ranch and guest resort offering accommodations, meals, guided tours, and more.

In just about 10 miles the peninsular divide is reached with a view of the Sea of Cortez and the many islands offshore. This was once the top of a very steep grade called La Cuesta de la Ley (The Grade that Rules). However, it was totally re-graded in the early 1980’s so 4WD is no longer needed.

26.0 Bottom of Cuesta de la Ley.

33.0 El Progreso, ranch. Road east curves to the left, road to El Barril forks to the right.

33.6 ‘T’ Junction: Left (west) is road to Bahia de los Angeles, access in 1.5 miles. Right is main road east.

33.8 Rancho Escondido road right, tourist services offered.

44.7 Gated entrance to Cala or Puerto San Francisquito ahead, turn right for Punta San Francisquito Resort. Soon drive along airport runway on dry lake bed.

46.7 Punta San Francisquito Resort. Damaged by recent earthquake, but open for business (meals, rooms).

It is 6:20pm and the sun is still up, but not for a whole lot longer. We have a look around and chat with the lady in charge, who was watching TV. It is windy, waves are crashing on the beach and setting up camp here would be a chore. We also didn’t get a very receptive greeting even though there were no other guests there. When I asked the lady about that, she just said it was too hot for tourists, and returned to watching TV.

We decide to push north for Bahia San Rafael, 35 miles away… We get to San Rafael at 7:30, and the man who runs the camp there, Pancho, is gone and his house is locked up. There are fishermen shacks and one man is there. We drive down onto the beach to have a look at the one palapa on the sand for camping. It doesn’t look real inviting. We see a few coyotes nearby, and I capture one with my camera who is brave enough not to run away. There is another access road onto the beach a bit north, so we turn around and drive back out on Pancho’s driveway to drive 2.1 more miles north to the other beach. That works out perfect for us. We set up camp with ease (love that easy-up tent), make dinner, and enjoy campfire time before turning in for a great night’s sleep!


Maps & Photos:













Guest rooms at Piedra Blanca.


Ball moss on a boojum (cirio) tree.


La Cuesta de la Ley.


















Gate and signs make it not very inviting to go to the cove on the sheltered bay.


This way is open and inviting. Unlike the way it is shown on the map, the graded road goes directly to the cove (Cala San Francisquito) entrance gate, 2.0 miles past the resort.


Along the airstrip.


Punta San Francisquito Resort.












Leaving, we take one more look at the runways.










This is the grade shown on the map as Puerto el Portezuelo.


Sunset, just a few miles from San Rafael.




On the beach, just beyond Pancho’s and the fishermen shacks.





Tomorrow (Day 14) we head for Bahia de los Angeles and meet up with old friends…

==============================================================

DAY 14 Bahia San Rafael, Bahia de los Angeles, Alejandrina's Restaurant, Laguna Chapala, Gonzaga Bay, and more!

Friday, July 27, 2012 (Day 14)

We awake to a beautiful morning on the beach at Bahia San Rafael. After some photos of the beach, we pack up and are on the road at 8:52am. Once again we are on the graded road, 2.1 miles north of the driveway to Pancho’s San Rafael beach camp and tire repair shop. I reset the odometer to 0. We stop for photos in a couple places as we cruise north on the typical Baja graded road. To help with tire life and smoother ride off pavement, I have been lowering the pressure from the normal 38 psi I run with a heavy load to 28 psi.

Mile 16.8: We come to the road for Bahia las Animas at 9:35am. This side road goes north to a fishing camp on a beautiful bay that was perhaps the possible location for a mission that was abandoned before it was completed. Two miles from the end of the road at the camp, a large hill is passed. On this hill are rock walls, at the base of the hill was an earth dam and reservoir behind it, and nearby is the trunk of a date palm. Other walls go across the desert. It is quite a mystery and first photographed and documented by Desert Magazine editor Choral Pepper back in 1966. Choral later would conclude that this site fits as the location of a ‘started’ mission called ‘Santa Maria Magdalena’ on the 1757 Jesuit map, shown south of Bahia de los Angeles. Las Animas Bay was first explored by the Jesuit Fernando Consag in 1746, who arrived by sea seeking new mission locations to the north of San Ignacio. It is all a great mystery and the purpose of all the work down here is otherwise unknown. See our 2009 examination of Choral Pepper’s lost mission found: http://vivabaja.com/109

Mile 20.6 (9:49am): The old road going south from L.A. Bay leaves the graded road here. It was opened up by the Erle Stanley Gardner party in 1966 using dune buggies and 4WDs to find the ancient trail they were told about by Dick Daggett in Bahia de los Angeles. See the effort in Gardner’s 1967 adventure book, ‘Off the Beaten Track in Baja’.

Mile 30.6 (10:13am): As the graded road curves to the right, an old road comes in from the left. This goes 3 miles south to the railroad terminal area where the gold and silver ore was loaded onto the small railroad cars bound for the mill at Las Flores. The ore came thousands of feet down from the San Juan mine on top of the mountain using a cable tramway. All this activity pretty much ended in 1911 because of the revolution in Mexico. Just past this junction on the graded road, look over to your right and see the railroad bed. The train engine from this railroad is now on display in the Bahia de los Angeles town plaza.


Mile 33.0 (10:21am): Over to the left is a small building. This is the Las Flores jail and vault that was once in a large town at the north end of the railroad line. Las Flores is where the ore was processed into ingots and then they were carted to the bay where boats would pick them up.

Mile 38.6 (10:33am): Camp Gecko, a private residence area now, at one time a fun place to camp with friends.

Bahia de los Angeles town is 4 miles north of the Camp Gecko entrance. We have some friends who have homes just north of Gecko, and we want to visit with them. First we find Mary Ann Humfreville, and she suggests we go have lunch in town and see if Paulina and Dern can join us. Mary Ann and her late husband Mike have been coming to Bahia de los Angeles since the 1970’s. Mike wrote a book about their summers on the bay, both before and after they had children. The book is called ‘In the Shadow of the Volcano’ and can be purchased at the museum in Bahia de los Angeles. In the United States or Canada, contact me as I have the remaining copies that were published.

We all go into town and after filling our gasoline tanks, we go to fill our stomachs at Alejandrina’s Restaurant, a place that has been getting great reviews on Baja Nomad forums. The reunion was great, and good to hears everyone is doing well. The town is quiet, as the summer heat is not enjoyed by many travelers, we love it nice and warm.

Here’s our trip route map, this covers the area from Bahia de los Angeles to Puertecitos:




The highway into/out-of Bahia de los Angeles is in great condition and it is about 40 miles back to Highway #1 (65 kilometers). We get on the road at 2:20pm and reach Highway #1 at 3:02pm.

Along the way, 12.6 miles from Bahia de los Angeles or 27 miles from Highway #1, is the signed road south to Mision San Borja. The junction is at the Km. 45 marker and if you have any time for the 22 mile dirt road drive, visiting this mission founded in 1762 is very much worth the drive and time. San Borja is the furthest north of the cut stone built missions in all of California. Remember, the Baja peninsula was California first, and once the padres came north of the peninsula they simply referred to the new land as ‘Alta (Upper) California’. Once you have an ‘upper California’, to clarify discussion, the peninsula then was called ‘Baja California’. Read more on San Borja in my article published last month, here: http://www.bajabound.com/bajatravel/mission_san_borja.php

Northbound on Highway #1: At 3:15pm we pass El Crucero in 12.9 miles, at Km. 261. This is where we joined Highway #1 two weeks earlier, southbound after visiting the Calamajue mission site. At Km. 251, 6.3 miles from El Crucero, is the ‘water road’ to Calamajue Canyon. It was built in 1973 during the construction of the Baja Highway to bring in water. It meets the road to El Crucero from Calamajue, just above the canyon entrance.

At 3:40pm we come to the Highway #5 junction with Highway #1, in the Laguna Chapala Valley. It is 30 miles from the Bahia de los Angeles Junction. We take photos of the many signs including the battered up information one. Now, Highway 5 is still a dirt road for the final 45 miles of it. So, I deflate my tires to help prevent rock punctures and to improve the ride. However, in just a few miles my low air pressure warning light comes on, and my front right tire has a hole in the center.

It takes 3 plugs to stop the leak, and it usually isn’t this hard to do it. In a couple miles the plugs fail, so I repeat the steps to avoid changing the tire, not that that is any big deal. I know they can patch the tire at Gonzaga Bay (Rancho Grande) and prefer to keep the new spare new, as long as possible. 9 years ago, I even purchased a used tire at Rancho Grande when I had a rock hole too big to patch. They actually had the correct size for my 2001 Tacoma. Since then, I lower the air to about 25 psi and avoid big rock damage.

We pass Coco’s Corner at Mile 12.7 from Laguna Chapala, and it is 4:52pm. With the tire issue and sun getting low, we did not stop to visit with Coco. We usually always like to make a visit there and buy a cold Pacifico from him. I wanted to let him know that Calamajue Canyon was no problem two weeks earlier from the little water we found there, compared to past years.

At Mile 25.3 we pass the south access road for Punta Final (part of it is the older road south, before the graded one we are on was made about 1987). At Mile 33.7 (from Highway #1/ Laguna Chapala) is the road to Campo Beluga, on the bay. We stayed there in 2007: http://vivabaja.com/207/page3.html

Rancho Grande, Gonzaga Bay is 35.0 miles from Highway #1. There one can eat at the new restaurant, shop for many items including booze in their market, and in back is the tire shop. The tire gets fixed, and we are okay on gasoline, so no need to top off at the Pemex station, across the road from Rancho Grande. The Pemex is also next to the road to the bay at Alfonsina’s Resort (Restaurant, Bar, Motel): http://vivabaja.com/908/page9.html and http://vivabaja.com/1106/page10.html for pictures at Alfonsina’s.

The sun is headed behind the mountains, but with so much of the road to the north paved, we are still comfortable about getting to Shell Island. Specially with the tire repaired. As it turned out, the hole was in the same spot as a previous patch made last January when I got the first flat, on this same tire (on a rocky road but didn‘t deflate). Perhaps that is why it was more difficult to plug? The older patch failed more than the tire failed, a second time. That road between Chapala and Coco’s Corner is very rocky, so go slow and save your tires. I have had no other failures during the 24,000 miles I have had on these Hankook Dynapro ATM tires.


I reset my trip odometer at Rancho Grande/ Gonzaga Pemex… just ahead is the military checkpoint, and they do their full inspection. It is all very professional and we are soon on our way.

We pass the road to Papa Fernandez’ Resort at Mile 2.5, then come to new highway construction at Mile 2.7. From here to the pavement we are sometimes on detours, sometimes on the new roadbed. Punta Bufeo Resort road is at Mile 7.5 and we are on new pavement at Mile 12.8. We come to the detour sign at Mile 13.0 and it is all pavement from here north. So, 13 miles from Rancho Grande & the Pemex or 10.5 miles from Papa Fernadez’ road… right about at the turnoff to Campo Delfines, is where the pavement begins going north, on July 27, 2012.

We come to the paved Puertecitos entrance road at 8:07pm and Mile 44.4 from the Gonzaga Bay Pemex. The new paved Highway #5 south from Puertecitos began being built about 5 years ago. In September of 2008, only 2 miles were paved. In July, 2010, 18 miles were paved. In July, 2011, 24 miles were paved. Now, in July/August 2012, 31 miles are paved. The land here is very rugged and the volcanic rock must be a tough thing to cut through!

We arrive at our beach camp on Shell Island tired, but happy. This is our favorite place to camp in all of Baja. Perhaps because it is an easy day’s drive from home (about 6 hours), but mostly because it is all sand and usually no other people. We enjoy the quiet times, but we also had great times with others on this trip!

I will wrap-up this trip with tomorrow’s (DAY 15) details for the drive home and crossing the border…

Hasta Pronto (See you soon)!

DAY 14 photos:



Good Morning Bahia San Rafael!






Our camp from the water’s edge.


On the road, looking back to the beach where we camped.




That’s Boca Grande, just north of San Rafael. Baja Nomads have reported very bad mud out there. The best story comes from ‘Barry A’ about his experience at Boca Grande.




This is the road to Bahia las Animas.








Mike’s Mountain comes into view. This is a peak above Bahia de los Angeles were an American (Mike) would climb to regularly and he made a rock house on top. See photos and discussion about it here:
http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=58661



The road reaches the highpoint in the valley and bends towards the bay. The road to the terminal area for the railroad comes in here. Just ahead, on your right is…


… the railroad bed. See photos at the terminal: http://www.vivabaja.com/402/page4.html and http://www.vivabaja.com/403/page11.html




The view from Mary Ann’s porch.




Paulina and Dern found a highway sign that even points the right way, plus my two stickers from years past. The ‘Viva Baja’ one held up to conditions better than the newer ‘got baja?’ one did!


There have been good reviews on Baja Nomad about the new restaurant in Bahia de los Angeles, Alejandrina’s. We agree, it was excellent. Here’s the menu:








Mary Ann, Dern and Paulina listen to Baja Angel (Elizabeth’s) story of our adventures the past two weeks.





Just out of town is a viewpoint where you can get this great panorama of Bahia de los Angeles (Bay of the Angels). The many islands are the angels, and when conditions are right, you can watch them rise above the water. An effect like a mirage causes this and it is quite a thrill to witness!






With a little zoom.




The 2010 Toyota Tacoma, 4WD, Off Road TRD, double cab, has been a awesome vehicle and seems to beg for bad roads, never a mechanical issue.






At Laguna Chapala, approaching the Highway #5 junction.










Hole plugged in the middle of the tread, turned out to be where a patch was placed 7 months earlier.


Once past Coco’s Corner, the road is more sand and gravel, than big rocks.


Getting close to Gonzaga Bay (Bahia San Luis Gonzaga and the bigger bay Ensenada de San Francisquito are together usually called ‘Gonzaga’. Some books and maps mistakenly call Gonzaga Bay, ‘Willard Bay’, after the point named Willard on the north end).


Tire repaired properly at the Rancho Grande tire shop, behind the store.


At the military checkpoint, sea shells were used to make a sign for their troop name.




New highway construction begins less than 3 miles from Rancho Grande.



















On pavement before nightfall!

Stay Tuned… for the final day’s report and photos…

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[Edited on 8-14-2012 by David K]

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DAY 15: to San Felipe, Tecate, Home!

Saturday, July 28, 2012 (Day 15 of 15 days in Baja)

The night was perfect, we had our last campfire and slept like babies. The next morning we had a high cloud cover which made it ideal for packing up, out of direct sunlight. Packing up the final time was a breeze and I cannot say enough good things about our new Coleman Easy-Up Tent… It is now ‘Baja Proven’!

Once the truck was loaded, I drove down close to the water so we could take one last swim in the Sea of Cortez. We were on the move at 8:47am.

Once off of Shell Island, I re-inflated the tires using the Tsunami fast pump and we were back to Highway #5 at 9:18am.

Arrived at the San Felipe South Pemex, 208 miles since filling up at Bahia de los Angeles. The price was 10.05 pesos/liter and the exchange rate offered at that Pemex was 13 pesos per dollar, so the price per gallon in dollars was $2.93.


The next order of business was getting the truck washed. U.S. customs can turn you back if you arrive at the border with obvious mud and dirt on or under your vehicle. The car wash place is the same we have used before, along the street we come into San Felipe on, on the right. The whole process takes about an hour, so we have some carnitas tacos at the restaurant next door and sodas while we wait. The car wash was $13 dollars, including tip, and we were northbound at 11:15am.

There is a major military inspection checkpoint, 30 miles north of town, but there is very little wait and hardly any time for the boys to look around before we are going again. Soon we are at the detour as they are widening Highway #5 for the next 21 miles… but it is fast and easy. Remember, I am in a Tacoma, made for Baja (and made in Baja, too), so bigger rigs, motor homes or lesser vehicles will find the detours less ‘fun’ than did I!

We took the Highway #2-D toll road from south of Mexicali to Tecate and avoided all city traffic going to the border at Tecate (192 miles from San Felipe). We got to the end of the line at 3:39pm Saturday afternoon. We were cleared into the U.S. at 4:26pm (47 min.) after just a couple of questions and no search.

When we got back to our home town, I topped the gas tank. We had traveled 312 miles today from Shell Island, 287 from the gas station in San Felipe. My gas mileage on this tank was 18.42 mpg (including the 47 minutes idling in line at the border). However, with gasoline at $3.69/ gallon… I think I like being in Baja more!

This was a most fantastic trip… we wish give big thanks to our hosts in La Paz (The Bajatripper family) and our hosts in Bahia Asuncion (Shari and Juan)… their hospitality and the friendliness of Mexican people all over the Baja California peninsula really make the vacation in Mexico a fun time. Our nights camping at Shell Island, Playa La Perla, and Bahia San Rafael were perfect… sure we had to deal with mosquitos at sundown at La Perla, but the weather was ideal at 95º and perfect warm sea water day or night. The sea temperature of near 85º is why we prefer going to Baja in the summer.


Day 15 Photos:


Shell Island and my tracks from last night.


Notice one of my HID lights is missing? The vibration was too much for the plastic housing, it was fixed once before with fiberglass. The all metal Hella lamps just eat up the bumps in Baja. I have the broken lamp, and maybe fix it again?


For beach sand, on the Cortez side, these tires work great at 18psi. Remember, even 2WD, sand is the easiest thing to drive over if you let enough air out of the tires! Sometimes as low as 8-10 psi... whatever it takes to float on top.


Fresh out of the sea and dressed for the drive!


This little blow sand at the edge of the tidal mud flats, made a great/ clean place to air up the tires for the trip home.


Looking towards the island/ beach. This mud flat goes underwater during the highest lunar or storm tides. I call it an 'island' for a good reason!





Close ups of Shell Island on the National Geographic Baja map and satellite image.


Looking inland towards Highway #5 (2 miles), at Km. 26.


Detour along Highway #5, 45 miles north of San Felipe.


Man in the mountain… the volcanic hills take on many shapes, just let your imagination run wild!


I posted something last night on forums where I have been sharing this trip report, and I think I will place it here, at the end of this 15 Days in Baja 2012 Photo Report:

This has been fun for me to relive the trip, and through this report it 'cements' the details better than (my) memory! I am glad some of you are enjoying it and if it sparks the desire to see these places (again, or the first time) then that is fantastic.

Baja California (Old California) is truly a land of wonder and adventure. On the 14th day, we passed places I have been to one or more times in the past, thus the links to those older photos were added should you wish to 'see' what I saw there. When or if you go in person, you WILL see more! These photos are just a sample, a tiny sample of what is down there. The ocean, the beaches, plants, animals, mines, missions, painted caves... all in one skinny, long peninsula. Baja has been attracting man to go there for centuries! It must be magic... The magic of Baja... 
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Thank you and Happy Trails!
David K

Bravo!

De nada... I hope it helps put you there, in spirit!

Well José, first we have fun in Baja... then I come home and take two weeks to share our two weeks of fun with you!

It's like having 4 weeks of Baja fun!!

Well, Twinky Right Wing Radical, you outdid yourself this time.
This is by far the best photo trip report I have seen published on Nomad. Congratulations! Too bad you hardly had any fun at all.

When are you guys coming up to see us again? The dogs miss you and you have my current wife fooled.

Enjoyed your trip report!