BajaNomad

2024 ECR - El Camino Real Hike Part 2

Fatboy - 9-30-2024 at 05:20 PM


Click HERE to read Part One

Around 1 AM I was startled out of a less than pleasant dream, by some large animal crashing through the brush, outside of that I slept well, which is saying a lot for a person of my age. Awakening at first light, I lay in the tent listening to the soft, pleasant sounds of the desert in the cool, early morning light.

CORRAL AT SAN SEBASTION

corral 1.jpg - 328kB

The motivation to get on the trail was not with me this morning. I dallied around my campsite slowly packing up the camping gear and having a leisurely cup of coffee before walking over to see the large stone corral at this site.

corral.jpg - 331kB


Dead Cow in Corral at San Sebastion

dead cow corral.jpg - 331kB


The start of todays hike was going to begin with a 350 foot climb that was fully exposed to the sun and it would have been much wiser to start early, in the cool of the morning, before the sunrise. Perhaps the close proximity to a good water source, and as far as I knew, my last water source, kept me there.

The physical exertion required to get here also played a big part in my reluctance to get going. There is no way that people on horseback went the way I did, so I must have missed a big piece of the trail that cut out the long sections of waterway that is choked with giant boulders. I believe that if I had found the trail it would have saved hours of scrambling to reach San Sebastion.

From here on out I would have to carry all the water I would need to reach my turn around point and make it back to here. 2 gallons would be smart, but heavy, so I settled on 1 ½ gallons. It left no room for mistakes and I would probably drink it all before I reached water again.

With everything packed up and the semblance of plan I walked down to the creek to filter water for the next two days. It was a little bit under a ¼ of mile down to the creek and it was a pleasant walk early in the day. Once at the creek I started walking up stream looking for a good place to filter water.

People might think that one spot is as good as any other to filter water, but it is not so. When you have a lot of water to filter, and a gallon and a half is a lot, you want a place you can sit. Ideally you also want a spot with a current to fill up your container and to wash away any sediment you might stir up.

Upon seeing the ideal spot I suddenly realized I left EVERYTHING at camp! I had no water bottles, no filter, nothing! It was here that I slapped my forehead while calling myself “Dummy!”. I walk back to camp gather up the bottles and filter and walk back down to the creek and filtered my water.

It was 10 am before I started the climb out of San Sebastion up to the 'main' path of the ECR. Cresting the ridge I am looking up the two draws where last year I had chosen the left hand draw and that was the wrong way.

So, turning right, I follow the bed of the wash but at times it is clearly not the way to go. I try climbing out the right hand bank looking for some sort of trail and when I strike out I head back down to the wash to try the other side.

At this point I discover a hole in one of my water bottles. Stopping in the shade of some large boulders I contemplate my choices. I decide on trying to patch it with Tenacious Tape. It looks like it is going to hold so I am off again trying to find the trail, this time on the left hand side of the wash.

There, 50 feet above the wash, I find a trail. It is much easier walking on these sections of trails than it is hiking up the bed of the wash most of the times. They have there own issues with overgrown sections and with the trail just fading out in to a multiple paths that soon fade out to nothing.

A GOOD SECTION OF TRAIL

trail 2.jpg - 331kB


It is along here that another water bottle starts leaking. It is leaking along a seam and there is no way to patch it up. I ended up transferring the water into my other water bottles, but I getting a little concerned at this point.

When you read about people who get in trouble in the backcountry, you realize it is rarely one large issue that leads to serious trouble, but a combination of several smaller problems that get you in trouble. A dead phone, followed by a sudden rainstorm, followed by a sprained ankle or A wrong turn, followed by a forgotten jacket, followed by nightfall, those types of things can get you in serious trouble.

I soon reach another point on the trail where I must make a decision. At the junction of two large washes I must decide whether to go to the right or to the left. What I have mapped on the GPS goes to the right and while there is a trail heading that way, there is a much more defined and well traveled trail going to the left.

Last year when I was faced with a similar decision I chose left hand wash and the well traveled trail. That lead to me going the wrong way, getting stung by a bee and attempting to travel cross country to get back on track only to be forced back very rugged terrain.

DENSE VEGETATION ALONG TRAIL

dense brush.jpg - 309kB

I eat some lunch trying to decide what to do. Last year I followed the path and not the GPS and that was wrong, so this year I am following the GPS and not the path. Oh, and while I do not know it yet, not only is it the wrong way, it soon turns into a nightmare.

Heading up the right hand wash the trail soon starts to become very overgrown. At times I am crawling through mesquite thickets, have you ever tried crawling through a mesquite thicket? DO NOT ATTEMPT! The branches reach down with their long thorns grabbing at your head, your arms, and your backpack all the while the ground is littered with thorns. A green hell if you ask me.

It is not long before several things happen at once. One is that the wash splits again, the GPS says to follow the left hand wash. The trail disappears and across the way is a unique geological feature. I have a feeling that if this was the correct path then that 'wall' running down the canyon face would have been mentioned. It is so straight and looks as if it was manmade and if travelers went this way they would have commented on it.

natural wall.jpg - 332kB

I wonder if it is time to turn around? If so, that may be the end of this trip, it is very demoralizing to return to a spot you left hours ago after going the wrong way. Deciding to go up the left hand canyon I start attempting to find a way and it will end up taking several hours to go a little under a mile.

Writing about it, reminds me about it and I would much rather forget that section of the trail. Dense thickets of thorny bushes, huge boulders to climb over, steep slopes with loose rock, dead ends…..ugh! Hours later I am near the top and the GPS shows the track on the OTHERSIDE of the canyon. I was ready to give up right then.


I started at the bottom of this...

wrong way.jpg - 332kB


Here is the GPS track up the wrong canyon

wrong way track.jpg - 331kB

After a snack I continue the climb and a few minutes later I reach the top of the mesa. With a sigh of relief I decide to follow along the edge of the canyon for the rest of the day just to see where I end up. On the mesa the hiking is easy with views stretching off to the Pacific ocean.

Continued below.....

[Edited on 10-2-2024 by Fatboy]

mtgoat666 - 9-30-2024 at 05:32 PM

There is a reason the Padres had locals as guides!

I never had a water bottle leak, except when cap was loose. REI sells good pba-free poly bottles that last for decades… literally decades, I got water bottles that have lasted forever, i lose them before I wear them out.

Fatboy - 9-30-2024 at 05:38 PM

(Continued from above...)

It is not long before I pickup a well defined trail coming from my left and heading in the right general direction. It looks like I am back on the 'main' ECR again. I should have followed my instinct hours ago and it would have saved me a lot of aggravation.

It is getting late in the day and I know were ever I end up today will be it. There is a canyon coming in from my left crossing in front of me where it goes on to join the canyon on my right that I have been following for the last mile or so.

From my view point on the canyon wall you can see a clearly defined trail leading down and across the canyon before climbing the far side to a low saddle. The draw becomes my destination, believing that once there I should have a good view of a nice, long, and pristine, arrow-straight section of the ECR that the Jesuits where famous for making.

trail.jpg - 323kB

About 100 feet from the top of the draw the trail makes a sudden turn to the right to continue up along the high point to the right of the draw. Another disappointment in a day filled with them. The saddle looks like such a natural path and there appears to be a massive Fig trail at the summit of the saddle and yet the trail never goes to the saddle.

I follow the trail up and to the right and coming across a small stand of trees I see signs of the Trail Gods. It seems as if I just was gifted a pleasant surprise. Hanging in one of the trees is a 1 Gallon water jug.


trail magic.jpg - 339kB

When the gods gives you what appears to be a gift, you should not get your hopes up too high. The water jug was empty. Add another disappointment on to the day. It is evening now and I must turn around and find a place to camp tonight.

Retracing my steps and crossing the canyon I had just crossed, I camp near a lone tree on the mesa top. I set up camp in the twilight while marveling at the sharpness of the desert air as the first few stars appear.

I wake up early knowing, in more ways than one, that I had reached the highpoint of my trip and the return was going to be downhill, mostly. The car was parked at 1,480 feet and my turn around point was at 3, 991 feet in elevation.

I had a slight problem to deal with this morning though, one of my shoes was coming apart and the sole was start to flop around. I taped them up as good as I could knowing it would not last for long. I ended taping them 6 or 7 times on the way back and they were even worse shape by the time I reached the car.

I follow the main trail back instead of the nightmare path up the canyon that I was on the day before. It is only an hour or so until I am back at my lunch spot of the previous day. From here on back it will all be on familiar ground and I only have one big decision left to make, do I go down La Rabia or back through San Sebastion?


Pot seen in a random spot on the trail
pot.jpg - 327kB


Coming up the wash past Tres Palmas is pretty much a straight forward hike until you arrive at the mouth of La Rabia. Most sources I saw show the trail that went to the right and through San Sebastion as being a spur or tie trail, while going left and up La Rabia was the more traveled route.

I don't know, I just know that La Rabia was a nightmare last year. While the path I took to San Sebastion was not easy either, it was much easier than La Rabia. So why then dilemma? La Rabia had several good water holes, while the once you left San Sebastion there was no good water. Then there was also the fact that is almost 2 miles shorter via La Rabia, which is at least a couple of hours worth of hiking.

It is not long before I am the point were a decision has to be made and I decided to try going down La Rabia. It starts off easy enough and I have smooth hiking in the upper reaches before I again forced down into the wash. It is another nightmare of boulder climbing and pushing through dense thickets of brush.
dense brush.jpg - 309kB


Upon reaching the large pools, which is two-thirds of the way down I find myself cliffed out above the pools. I need to backtrack and then cross over to the opposite side of the wash to continue downstream. I really detest backtracking when I am this tired.


large pool.jpg - 321kB


Crossing the wash requires walking along fallen palm tree trunks and picking your way across deep piles of fallen palm fronds. I hate having to do that, I am constantly imagining snakes, spiders and scorpions in the dead fronds below my feet and of me falling through fronds in to a mass of creepy, crawling, biting creatures.

It is frightening to me the whole time I am walking on those huge piles dry, crackling palm fronds. I am worried the whole time while working through dense brush that my phone, which is also me gps device, is going to fall out of my pocket. Patting my pocket every couple of hundred feet gives me some relief that it is still there.

Reaching the far side allows my fear of spiders and snakes to recede and another fear to become reality. I now need to climb high above the wash on the steep mountainside and traverse my way downstream until I can regain the wash. There appear to be trails high up on the mountain but they only go on a short distance before they fade out. It so easy to get turned around up there and have something bad happen up there that it actually scares me a little.

High above the wash I find the same fence and gate I came across last year so at least I know am in the right area. Hours later, after several dead ends, I pat my pocket to check on my phone only to find it gone. Hurriedly I check all my pockets several times but my phone is gone.

I am tired and thirsty and now I am worried about having lost my phone. Deciding to backtrack hoping to find it is tiring and I decide to leave my pack. Now I am worried that my phone is lost and I will not be able to find my pack again!

After 15 minutes of walking I come to a wash that looks familiar, I remember checking the map on the phone here to see which way to climb out of the wash. I stop and look around but there is nothing to see. There was a section of the 'trail' where I had to get down on my hands and knees and crawl along a cliff face, did the phone fall out there and slide down the cliff?

Turning around to leave and go look for my backpack I lean over a boulder to look and there is my phone! What a relief! Now, if I can just find my pack.

It is no problem finding my pack and I continue on working my way back down to La Rabia. Once there I soon find a pool and fill up my belly and my bottles with water.

It appears that a storm had come through since last year and there are uprooted trees and piles of brush everywhere. The section of easy trail I had followed through here last year is completely washed away. Hours later, just past sunset I reach the San Sebastion wash and at the first possible campsite I set up camp and go to sleep.


trail up.jpg - 309kB

Tomorrow I will be back at the car and I am laying there reminiscing about my last night on my previous hike on the ECR. I had camped near here in 2023 and the wind had howled all night long and I had trouble sleeping, while tonight was calm and quiet and I slept well.

Awakening on my last day I quickly broke camp and was on the trail early. Today had a small surprise in store for me. I found a nice section of the ECR, wide and almost perfectly straight. From there it wasn't long before I was back at the ranch where I had parked several days ago.

No one was home so I left a 8-pack of gatorade on their picnic table and opened the gate to leave. As I went to drive away, Juan and his wife pulled up. They invited me in for a 'Torta' but I sadly declined.

road out.jpg - 324kB

Now it was just a matter of driving the 50 miles of dirt road back to Mex Hwy 1, and then northwards to Villa Jesus Maria and from there a much longer drive to the border and then home.

road out 2.jpg - 317kB


There was several Deja Vu moments on this trip, one was in 2023 when Francisco at Rancho Nuevo invited me in to his home at the end of the trip, and in 2024 it was Juan at Los Corralles. Of course, there was the issue of taking the wrong path which I did in both 2023 and in 2024.

Then, at Jesus Maria in 2023, I had a conversation with a young couple, they were down Baja for the first time, were surprised at how nice the people were and they where just heading to where ever the winds blow them and on this trip it was a guy on a motorcycle, he was down here for the first time, and he went on how the locals have been extremely nice and helpful (he did not speak so kindly of all the tourists that passed him while he was broken down on the road) and how he to had no set plan on where he was going either.

Other than a rainy day in Southern California it was an uneventful trip home.


To Read about my 2022 Hike click HERE

To read about my 2023 Hike click HERE



[Edited on 10-1-2024 by Fatboy]

Fatboy - 9-30-2024 at 05:57 PM

Quote: Originally posted by mtgoat666  
There is a reason the Padres had locals as guides!

I never had a water bottle leak, except when cap was loose. REI sells good pba-free poly bottles that last for decades… literally decades, I got water bottles that have lasted forever, i lose them before I wear them out.


Very true about the guides!!!!

I have used a lot of different water containers over the years and nothing has been perfect for everything yet....too heavy, too fragile, too bulky, too expensive.... I cannot wait for the the perfect water bottle that is free, light, and super durable while packing down to a small size when empty....

surabi - 9-30-2024 at 07:48 PM

Interesting hiking log, thanks. As for water bottles, while you say "too expensive" as one of your criteria, you get what you pay for- if I was a hiker in an area where water could be scarce or non-existent, I'd spend the money for something that wouldn't leak, would collapse, wasn't toxic like those thin clear plastic bottles are, and was durable. It pays off in the long run to have the right equipment.

I'm not familiar with any of these, but looks like there's a lot of choices out there.
https://www.travelandleisure.com/style/travel-accessories/be...

Fatboy - 9-30-2024 at 08:08 PM

Funny, that in the article you link I actually own and use 2 of the nine products listed. Which is a pretty good percentage considering just how many water bottles are out there.

But, yes, my response was meant to imply the traits the PERFECT water bottle might have. :bounce:

Your right that when buying from a reputable seller you get what you pay and paying more usually has it's advantages.


4x4abc - 9-30-2024 at 10:27 PM

what a cool trip!

Fatboy - 10-1-2024 at 10:31 AM

Thanks, Harald!

Maybe someday I will do than a 20 mile section at a time.... need to shuttle a vehicle so the 45 miles I do hike can all be in ONE DIRECTION!

Plus, now I have several pieces of the puzzled solved.

I just need to find the 'easy' way to do the last couple of miles into San Sebastion then it should be straight forward at least to El Parasio.

David K - 10-1-2024 at 11:35 AM

I am so thrilled to read your newest installment of a truly epic adventure, John!

Hiking the El Camino Real trail, here built in 1759-1762 as San Borja grew from a visita of Santa Gertrudis to being a mission of its own, has sure been difficult for you... and most anyone, I imaging.

The erosion of trail dirt leaving just bare rocks where a rideable trail had been plus the growth of thorny brush on the 260 year-old road, shows how Nature reclaims what man has done, left to its own.

A review of Harry Crosby's (RIP) book ('The King's Highway in Baja California', 1974) and the recent Google Earth map notes by Kevin & Genevieve in this section ( https://caminorealbaja.com/ ) will be interesting... Thank you!

For readers to orient on your hike area and ranch names, here are ECR maps of that region...



This is the land north of El Arco and south of San Borja in the center of the peninsula.

[Edited on 10-1-2024 by David K]

cupcake - 10-1-2024 at 12:12 PM

Thanks for the good read and photos for your most recent ECR trek.

I have an old Nalgene one-liter bottle that I have been using for 30+ years.

For the last four months I have been hiking, trail camping, and car camping in the San Gabriel mountains of southern California (with some disruptions by the summer forrest fires). During this time, for water I was using plastic one-gallon jugs that originally contained Arizona Ice Tea. The tea was too sweet for me, but I did manage to drink enough that I ended up with many empty jugs, which are great for car camping and on the trail as well. The jugs don't collapse, but I also have a collapsible Gregory water bladder that holds 3+ liters (quality gear bought at REI). Jugs like I have descirbed can be reinforced by wrapping them with duct tape; I have done this with good effect in the past.

[Edited on 10-1-2024 by cupcake]

Fatboy - 10-1-2024 at 06:51 PM

Quote: Originally posted by David K  
.......
Hiking the El Camino Real trail, here built in 1759-1762 as San Borja grew from a visita of Santa Gertrudis to being a mission of its own, has sure been difficult for you... and most anyone, I imaging.

......

A review of Harry Crosby's (RIP) book ('The King's Highway in Baja California', 1974) and the recent Google Earth map notes by Kevin & Genevieve in this section ( https://caminorealbaja.com/ ) will be interesting... Thank you!

.......

[Edited on 10-1-2024 by David K]


Thanks, David! I do need look at Kevin and Genevieve site again to se what they show.

Crosby's book is kind of vague on the route they took from Rancho Nuevo to San Sebastion, but he did clearly state that they did go to San Sebastion.

I need to read that section closer, it seems that some of the times listed do not seem to fit?


Fatboy - 10-1-2024 at 06:57 PM

Quote: Originally posted by cupcake  
Thanks for the good read and photos for your most recent ECR trek.

I have an old Nalgene one-liter bottle that I have been using for 30+ years.

For the last four months I have been hiking, ...... Jugs like I have described can be reinforced by wrapping them with duct tape; I have done this with good effect in the past.

[Edited on 10-1-2024 by cupcake]


Thanks!

As to the water bottles, Nalgene are/were really popular, but for me I was never one to use them. Part of the problems in the desert are thorns puncturing them, duct tape could certainly help with that.

cupcake - 10-2-2024 at 11:01 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Fatboy  
Quote: Originally posted by cupcake  
Thanks for the good read and photos for your most recent ECR trek.

I have an old Nalgene one-liter bottle that I have been using for 30+ years.

For the last four months I have been hiking, ...... Jugs like I have described can be reinforced by wrapping them with duct tape; I have done this with good effect in the past.

[Edited on 10-1-2024 by cupcake]


Thanks!

As to the water bottles, Nalgene are/were really popular, but for me I was never one to use them. Part of the problems in the desert are thorns puncturing them, duct tape could certainly help with that.


I doubt duct tape would give much protection against a serious thorn; It can strengthen seams against exapansion and compression. The Arizona Ice Tea jugs I mentioned are quite rugged (or at least they were - maybe they are made thinner now, I don't know).

The hiking I've been doing the last few months has mostly been on either maintained trails or decent 'use' trails...a world of difference from your ECR trek, which amounts to cross country travel with considerable route finding challenges.

I've added a small bear horn to my hiking kit, as I had two close bear sightings recently. The horn should also work well for dogs, coyotes, lions, etc. The horn I have weighs next to nothing and is relatively inexpensive.
Bear Horn Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07xYYn64uXU

[Edited on 10-2-2024 by cupcake]

David K - 10-2-2024 at 12:05 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Fatboy  
Quote: Originally posted by David K  
.......
Hiking the El Camino Real trail, here built in 1759-1762 as San Borja grew from a visita of Santa Gertrudis to being a mission of its own, has sure been difficult for you... and most anyone, I imaging.

......

A review of Harry Crosby's (RIP) book ('The King's Highway in Baja California', 1974) and the recent Google Earth map notes by Kevin & Genevieve in this section ( https://caminorealbaja.com/ ) will be interesting... Thank you!

.......



Thanks, David! I do need look at Kevin and Genevieve site again to se what they show.

Crosby's book is kind of vague on the route they took from Rancho Nuevo to San Sebastion, but he did clearly state that they did go to San Sebastion.

I need to read that section closer, it seems that some of the times listed do not seem to fit?



I sent Kevin the link to this thread and he replied. Let me see if I can share his reply here... in short, they found that going from north tom south on ECR made it easier to spot the old route in these difficult places.

I recall Harry going via the San Sebastian arroyo rather than the La Rabia one on his travels. Likely due to it being a better route to use in 1967 or that is what his guide used or believed to be the missionaries trail.

Interestingly, on his 1977 edition of the El Camino Real maps, he has the trail north from San Sebastian as being 'well-definesd' (a double line): https://sandiegohistory.org/journal/77winter/images/p24-25.g...



Below is the 1974 'King's Highway in Baja California' Map of that section, followed by the 1977 map:

ECR 1974-4.jpg - 268kB



p24-25.gif - 97kB

cupcake - 10-2-2024 at 01:03 PM

The link in David's post ^^ took me to an error page, but copying this part of the link and pasting it into a browser takes me to the image list page, from where pp. 24-25 can be accessed. Looks like more info/maps can be accessed via the list page as well.

https://sandiegohistory.org/journal/77winter/images/


cupcake - 10-2-2024 at 01:13 PM

Quote: Originally posted by David K  

in short, they found that going from north tom south on ECR made it easier to spot the old route in these difficult places.


That is interesting, as in looking at the starting (1,480 feet) and turnaround (3,991 feet) altitudes in Fatboy's trip report, I would think a better view would be had from travelling south to north in the section covered by this trip report. A lot would depend on how much up and down travel there is (and where it is), among other things, but Fatboy does report a considerable difference in altitude between his start and turaround points. My understanding in reading his trip report and looking at the maps you (David) have provided, is that Fatboy traveled south to start his trip and then returned in a northward direction. Sarting high and descending might give an 'overview' of the upcoming terrain and thus be better for routefinding.

I don't want to confuse routefinding with physical movement. For most people, ascending a steep section is easier and safer than descending a steep section (especially when seeing it for the first time). But this applies more to ground that requires the use of hands (3rd class) versus normal cross country hiking.

In studying the place names in Fatboy's trip report and matching them to locations pinpointed on the maps that David has posted, it quickly becomes appearant, as expected, that the first map in this thread that David posted is the one to take if you were going to try and actually do the trek. A detailed, well-marked topo map.

Great website by Genevieve and Kevin, previously linked by David earlier in this thread. Could well help a trekker avoid trouble on the ECR (see their 'Dangers and Concerns' section).

[Edited on 10-2-2024 by cupcake]

bajaric - 10-2-2024 at 05:11 PM

Great report, describing second half of the hike north from San Sebastion, then returning south to the rancho where the car was parked. Gabb, in 1867, mentioned seeing some old arrastras at San Sebastion from an abandoned prospecting effort.

I find it usually takes a couple of trips to get the "lay of the land" when exploring an unfamiliar area without any landmarks. Very easy to get disoriented and stray off of the intended route. Maybe those pots hanging in the trees were like "ducks" to help someone remember where the trail was.

The El Camino Real web site has some detailed "waypoints" or "breadcrumbs" all along the route, I would think some techie person could load the satellite view of Google earth on to some sort of electronic device with the trail and waypoints shown on it.

From Kevin of www.CaminoRealBaja.com:

David K - 10-2-2024 at 05:27 PM

Yes, you may post this and I hope John has better luck next time. I wish I could walk with him for at least part of the way. Genevieve and I love this section. It is both beautiful and interesting!
You can also mention, if you want, that we found a tiny tinaja with some unappetizing water near Las Cabras and in the canyon of El Paraiso. That was it, but it was enough. Actually, it was a lot better than on some other parts of the trail.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
La Rabia is NOT the usual route of the ECR today, but it possibly was long ago. The standard trail today is the one that is obvious on Google Earth and I do believe it was an ECR option in the day. I know it was mentioned in the mid-1800s. It is used today, but even there you need to be cautious about selecting the correct trail out of the occasional cow trails.

We have been in that part of ECR twice, both a few years back. We probed once from a ranch a little higher in elevation and then we backpacked the entire section from San Augustine. That time we travelled north to south and it went very well. We did have to scout around at times, but it wasn't too bad. North to south is definitely the easier direction for route finding. Water is a problem. From El Paraiso heading south we found a tiny pool near the lip of the canyon, at El Rodeo, at El Rancho and then at San Sebastian. Not a lot of water but enough. We always carried plenty of water in our packs just in case! Our first camp was in the canyon of El Paraiso. The next camp was at El Rodeo and the third camp was at San Sebastian. We like to move fast for safety.

We both really enjoyed that part of the trail and we would like to backpack it again.

David K - 10-2-2024 at 05:33 PM

Quote: Originally posted by bajaric  
Great report, describing second half of the hike north from San Sebastion, then returning south to the rancho where the car was parked. Gabb, in 1867, mentioned seeing some old arrastras at San Sebastion from an abandoned prospecting effort.

I find it usually takes a couple of trips to get the "lay of the land" when exploring an unfamiliar area without any landmarks. Very easy to get disoriented and stray off of the intended route. Maybe those pots hanging in the trees were like "ducks" to help someone remember where the trail was.

The El Camino Real web site has some detailed "waypoints" or "breadcrumbs" all along the route, I would think some techie person could load the satellite view of Google earth on to some sort of electronic device with the trail and waypoints shown on it.


The thousands of waypoints do make a breadcrumb trail. Nomad map guru 'geoffff' made some versions (linked) as well as the Benchmark Baja Atlas put their track onto the Atlas...
https://octopup.org/img/misc/davidk/ecr/ecr-davidk.jpg




https://octopup.org/img/misc/davidk/ecr/caminorealbaja-com-t...



The above two and more are on my website page: https://vivabaja.com/hgreal/

Fatboy - 10-2-2024 at 06:01 PM

Quote: Originally posted by cupcake  
Quote: Originally posted by Fatboy  
Quote: Originally posted by cupcake  
Thanks for the good read and photos ......

[Edited on 10-1-2024 by cupcake]

.......

I've added a small bear horn to my hiking kit, as I had two close bear sightings recently. The horn should also work well for dogs, coyotes, lions, etc. The horn I have weighs next to nothing and is relatively inexpensive.
Bear Horn Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07xYYn64uXU

[Edited on 10-2-2024 by cupcake]


Roughly, what part of the country you in? Bears are interesting, in Grizzly country I carry bear spray but here in Northern California I rarely carry anything for bears.

I do have a winter hike planned in February of 2025 here in Plumas County that I will most certainly be carrying bear spray on.

One reason is, of course, there are lots of Bears around here, but now there are also wolves.

Second reason is because of an odd set of circumstances I will start hiking around midnight and hike until the next morning on the first day.


Fatboy - 10-2-2024 at 06:37 PM

David,

Here is my path through La Rabia, the flags (g105 ect) are Kevin & Genevieve while my path is the blue line and as you can see they are quite different though a section of it.

Then you compare that with what Crosby wrote..... "After 2 hours...indicated a sudden left turn up a side canyon. ....soon climbing a long cuesta of decomposed granite. ....three hours from the Romero Ranch (Tres Palmas) we had gained over a thousand feet....)

So that put in the neighborhood of La Rabia. It is around 4 miles(probably closer to 4.5 miles) from Tres Palmas to the junction of La Rabia. So that is really close to the '2 hours' and the 'sudden left turn' Crosby talks about.

Also, the upper half of my 'loop' away from the wash, you climb, quite sharply, up a hill of decomposed granite!

Now there surely could could be another 'side canyon' past La Rabia and it could take you up a hill of decomposing granite, but nothing really fits.

The point where I regain the the bed of La Rabia is about 850 above Tres Palmas, so that fits also.

Now I will say that the odd thing is when you go the La Rabia route you have to DROP DOWN to San Sebastion by 350 feet or so. I would tend to believe that Crosby what have also mentioned that, so who knows?????



My path La Rabia.jpg - 306kB

Fatboy - 10-2-2024 at 06:49 PM

Quote: Originally posted by bajaric  
Great report, describing second half of the hike north from San Sebastion,
..... remember where the trail was.

The El Camino Real web site has some detailed "waypoints" or "breadcrumbs" all along the route, I would think some techie person could load the satellite view of Google earth on to some sort of electronic device with the trail and waypoints shown on it.


Thanks.

To the waypoints, I do have them and they are very helpful. Problem is that at times you must turn right or left to get to a waypoint that is straight ahead.

Which is the right way? What google earth shows from hundreds, if not thousands of feet in the air, does not always match what you are staring at on the ground.


To the direction of travel and which way is easier.... I would say "going down" is much easier for route finding. So on this section going southwards is much easier.

At least that is my belief....

Not because you can see, but because the washes are JOINING and not Y'ing, so there are way fewer left/right decisions that need to be made.


David K - 10-3-2024 at 08:51 AM

Good morning John/ Fatboy.
I must say reading your posts brings the excitement of exploration back to Nomad's Trip Reports forum... Thank you!

The 3-D map blue line is super... Can you show the rest of your hike that way (I love maps, lol)?

Do you have any plans to hike other parts of El Camino Real... that are not as 'impossible' to find?

PaulW - 10-3-2024 at 09:08 AM

It is my belief that when making a track or just locating a prominent place using Google earth is very accurate and duplicable in the field using my GPSs.
In the field using a hand held GPS to find that place you created from Google earth requires some movement of the handheld GPS. Then it gives you the correct reading.
Creating a Wp using a handheld GPS is not as accurate. It depends on how many satellites are in view and how many channels the GPS has, and if the user allows enough time to allow the satellite to lock. The result is much better when Wp or breadcrumb is part of a track.

David K - 10-3-2024 at 09:16 AM

Quote: Originally posted by PaulW  
It is my belief that when making a track or just locating a prominent place using Google earth is very accurate and duplicable in the field using my GPSs.
In the field using a hand held GPS to find that place you created from Google earth requires some movement of the handheld GPS. Then it gives you the correct reading.
Creating a Wp using a handheld GPS is not as accurate. It depends on how many satellites are in view and how many channels the GPS has, and if the user allows enough time to allow the satellite to lock. The result is much better when Wp or breadcrumb is part of a track.


Indeed! Also, and Kevin mentions this on his website (CaminoRealBaja.com): The waypoint and other note placements on his Google Earth map do not always match the true location... something shifts some of them after they are correctly placed.

cupcake - 10-3-2024 at 10:43 AM

Quote: Originally posted by bajaric  
Great report, describing second half of the hike north from San Sebastion, then returning south to the rancho where the car was parked.


My understanding is that the car was parked at (or near) the Rancho San Sabastian, and that the direction of hiking was south through the San Sabastian wash towards Tres Palmas. The return to the car was then northward. This is what I see on the topo map that David posted previously (the first map in this thread). While compass direction is not marked on the portion of this posted map, it can be determined by David's statement that it is the section south of San Borja and north of El Arco. Please correct me, anyone, if I am misreading this.

[Edited on 10-3-2024 by cupcake]

cupcake - 10-3-2024 at 11:04 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Fatboy  
Quote: Originally posted by cupcake  
Quote: Originally posted by Fatboy  
Quote: Originally posted by cupcake  
Thanks for the good read and photos ......

[Edited on 10-1-2024 by cupcake]

.......

I've added a small bear horn to my hiking kit, as I had two close bear sightings recently. The horn should also work well for dogs, coyotes, lions, etc. The horn I have weighs next to nothing and is relatively inexpensive.
Bear Horn Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07xYYn64uXU

[Edited on 10-2-2024 by cupcake]


Roughly, what part of the country you in? Bears are interesting, in Grizzly country I carry bear spray but here in Northern California I rarely carry anything for bears.

I do have a winter hike planned in February of 2025 here in Plumas County that I will most certainly be carrying bear spray on.

One reason is, of course, there are lots of Bears around here, but now there are also wolves.

Second reason is because of an odd set of circumstances I will start hiking around midnight and hike until the next morning on the first day.



My recent close bear sightings were very near the Mankar Flats campgound, which is at about the 6,500 foot level on the south escarpment of Mt. Baldy (Mt. San Antonio), in the San Gabriel range of southern California.

My first sighting was at around 8am when a bear walked across the ground that my tent had been on just 5 minutes prior. A daytime sighting of a bear which obviously had no, or little, fear of humans. My second sighting was days later, not too far from the first sighting, and it might have been the same bear. This was also daytime and the bear was walking around a cabin.

I've been hiking in this area for decades, with many hundreds of ascents of the local mountains, and this is the best bear sighting I have had (a fact which surprises my friends, who have had a number of bear encounters). I never carried bear deterent in this area before, but will from now on.

The fires of this past summer have destroyed a good portion of the food source these bears relied on, which might see them migrating to the unburned areas (such as the Mankar Flats area described above).

[Edited on 10-3-2024 by cupcake]

Fatboy - 10-3-2024 at 12:51 PM

Quote: Originally posted by cupcake  
Quote: Originally posted by bajaric  
Great report, describing second half of the hike north from San Sebastion, then returning south to the rancho where the car was parked.


My understanding is that the car was parked at (or near) the Rancho San Sabastian, and that the direction of hiking was south through the San Sabastian wash towards Tres Palmas. The return to the car was then northward. This is what I see on the topo map that David posted previously (the first map in this thread). While compass direction is not marked on the portion of this posted map, it can be determined by David's statement that it is the section south of San Borja and north of El Arco. Please correct me, anyone, if I am misreading this.

[Edited on 10-3-2024 by cupcake]


No, the car was parked at Los Corralles, which is not on most of the maps.

From there I hiked north to Tres Palmas, then on to San Sebastian, then further north another 7 or 8 miles.

Then I hiked back south to the car.

The ranchos go Rancho Nuevo, in the south and as you go northwards you pass Rancho Los Corralles, and they are both operating ranches. Then further north is Tres Palmas, then even further north is San Sebastian which are just place names for the most part.

David K - 10-3-2024 at 01:13 PM

Quote: Originally posted by cupcake  
Quote: Originally posted by bajaric  
Great report, describing second half of the hike north from San Sebastion, then returning south to the rancho where the car was parked.


My understanding is that the car was parked at (or near) the Rancho San Sabastian, and that the direction of hiking was south through the San Sabastian wash towards Tres Palmas. The return to the car was then northward. This is what I see on the topo map that David posted previously (the first map in this thread). While compass direction is not marked on the portion of this posted map, it can be determined by David's statement that it is the section south of San Borja and north of El Arco. Please correct me, anyone, if I am misreading this.

[Edited on 10-3-2024 by cupcake]


Unless specified, maps I post are oriented north, on top.
I see Fatboy cleared up the question of his car and hike direction.
San Sebastian was once a major ranch and appeared on many old maps but is abandoned and nearly vanished today. It is off the original El Camino Real, to the east and downhill from the top of La Rabia canyon where three or more trails converge.
[I hope I got this right, eh Fatboy?]

Los Corrales is shown on the Benchmark Atlas (along with the 'ECR' trail). San Sebastian is not shown but its arroyo is named. It was located near where the trail that splits at San Nicolas comes back together again. The left trail branch is La Rabia. Another La Rabia is on the map, near the bottom. Tres Palmas is located just past the 'ECR' on the map on the right fork a short distance:







[Edited on 10-3-2024 by David K]

cupcake - 10-3-2024 at 02:01 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Fatboy  
Quote: Originally posted by cupcake  
Quote: Originally posted by bajaric  
Great report, describing second half of the hike north from San Sebastion, then returning south to the rancho where the car was parked.


My understanding is that the car was parked at (or near) the Rancho San Sabastian, and that the direction of hiking was south through the San Sabastian wash towards Tres Palmas. The return to the car was then northward. This is what I see on the topo map that David posted previously (the first map in this thread). While compass direction is not marked on the portion of this posted map, it can be determined by David's statement that it is the section south of San Borja and north of El Arco. Please correct me, anyone, if I am misreading this.

[Edited on 10-3-2024 by cupcake]


No, the car was parked at Los Corralles, which is not on most of the maps.

From there I hiked north to Tres Palmas, then on to San Sebastian, then further north another 7 or 8 miles.

Then I hiked back south to the car.

The ranchos go Rancho Nuevo, in the south and as you go northwards you pass Rancho Los Corralles, and they are both operating ranches. Then further north is Tres Palmas, then even further north is San Sebastian which are just place names for the most part.


OK, thanks for setting me straight on this. What Kevin said regarding easier route finding when traveling north to south in this section makes more sense to me now, as that would be traveling from higher to lower elevation, in general.

[Edited on 10-3-2024 by cupcake]

cupcake - 10-3-2024 at 02:18 PM

Quote: Originally posted by David K  


Unless specified, maps I post are oriented north, on top.
I see Fatboy cleared up the question of his car and hike direction.
San Sebastian was once a major ranch and appeared on many old maps but is abandoned and nearly vanished today. It is off the original El Camino Real, to the east and downhill from the top of La Rabia canyon where three or more trails converge.
[I hope I got this right, eh Fatboy?]

Los Corrales is shown on the Benchmark Atlas (along with the 'ECR' trail). San Sebastian is not shown but its arroyo is named. It was located near where the trail that splits at San Nicolas comes back together again. The left trail branch is La Rabia. Another La Rabia is on the map, near the bottom. Tres Palmas is located just past the 'ECR' on the map on the right fork a short distance:

[Edited on 10-3-2024 by David K]


This Benchmark Atlas map is nice in that it shows the ECR trail. It looks like it shows the ECR using the La Rabia drainage (this la rabia not marked on the map), even though in reading this thread it looks like the San Sebastian drainage might be less difficult (probably because La Rabia has water and this section of San Sebastian does not). Since la rabia means 'rage', like the disease, I wonder if all the la rabias will indicate tough going.

David, if there is a link to these good detailed topo and elevation maps you are posting in this thread, could you please pass along the url links? I have been unable to find them online.

I wanted to mention something I read on Kevin and Genevieve's website that concerns me, and that is the reportedly increasing use of ECR water sources by drug people for growing. Their website expresses the concern that in the future every water source on the ECR will be used by these people.

[Edited on 10-3-2024 by cupcake]

David K - 10-3-2024 at 03:30 PM

Hi cupcake (reminds me of Guardians of the Galaxy),
All the Baja maps I have available to everyone (most you can zoom in for real close looks) are on my website (VivaBaja.com) on this page: https://vivabaja.com/maps/





cupcake - 10-3-2024 at 04:48 PM

Thanks David. Strange how we give ourselves these names. I was eating a cupcake when I registered on Bajanomad, and simultaneously experiencing a moment of low creativity. So, cupcake I am.

Thanks to your previous post on this thread, I can now address Fatboy as John, denoting the respect I feel for him.

I have started exploring the maps on your website; there is a lot to digest there. Managed to see some good topographical offerings, but have yet to figure out how to download a PDF of them. Could be a limitation of the public computer I am using.



[Edited on 10-3-2024 by cupcake]

David K - 10-3-2024 at 08:45 PM

I am not sure what needs downloading. Please tell me which map you can't view

More from Kevin of CaminoRealBaja.com

David K - 10-4-2024 at 07:07 AM

"We have talked to some of the ranchers in the area and we get a mix of responses about La Rabia. Some say there is no trail there and it has not been a part of ECR. Another rancher we met at the top of the Rabia, while he was looking for some of his scattered cattle, knew that the ECR went right down through there. It depends on who you speak to about it. As in other places, some of the local ranchers have lost the knowledge of ECR and its location. I assume that it is partly a lack of interest, and the fact that many of the ranchers today are not descended from the original ranchers in those areas.

"I would have to look back at the information, but I am quite certain Crosby took the standard route to San Sebastian. In fact, it would be very difficult, I believe, to go from La Rabia to San Sebastian and rather pointless. San Sebastian has a higher water source and is therefore closer to the next source at El Rancho.

"By the way, I made an error when describing our backpack to San Sebastián and beyond. We started from the area of Compostela not San Augustine. Sorry about that."

Fatboy - 10-4-2024 at 10:03 AM

Quote: Originally posted by David K  


Unless specified, maps I post are oriented north, on top.
I see Fatboy cleared up the question of his car and hike direction.
San Sebastian was once a major ranch and appeared on many old maps but is abandoned and nearly vanished today. It is off the original El Camino Real, to the east and downhill from the top of La Rabia canyon where three or more trails converge.
[I hope I got this right, eh Fatboy?]

Los Corrales is shown on the Benchmark Atlas (along with the 'ECR' trail). San Sebastian is not shown but its arroyo is named. It was located near where the trail that splits at San Nicolas comes back together ...

[Edited on 10-3-2024 by David K]


Yes, that is correct about San Sebastion relation to the trails and La Rabia.

I wonder what is at 'San Nicolas'? It implies there is a Rancho there, but since it may be on the opposite side from the mouth of La Rabia I would have never gone over there.

Fatboy - 10-4-2024 at 10:13 AM

I do not know what the route the Padres took hundreds of years ago but for a person on foot and even with a mule La Rabia is a viable option even today.

Crosby writes very little about the whole section from Santa Gertrudis to San Borja that there is not enough info to go on.

BUT the route does fit with his few words about their route, other routes may fit also, but La Rabia fits almost perfectly.

The time it took to get there, the climb, the decomposing granite all fits better than the more direct route to San Sebastion.

Fatboy - 10-4-2024 at 10:15 AM

There are other sections of the ECR I want to do, but I really want to complete this section.

I will post up the maps of my route in a day or two.

Would it be better to just post a KMZ file for google earth?

cupcake - 10-4-2024 at 11:20 AM

Quote: Originally posted by David K  
I am not sure what needs downloading. Please tell me which map you can't view


I was able to find and view a good interactive topo map that covers the entire peninsula. I could zoom in, which would add contour lines (changing the elevation intervals). Everything seemed to work properly, but I couldn't see how to download a given screen as a PDF. Perhaps this is not possible and the maps are not equiped with this option.

I am old school; I have never owned a tablet, a mobile phone. The maps I take on the trail are the paper type, so I was hoping to download and print some of those maps from your website.

[Edited on 10-4-2024 by cupcake]

cupcake - 10-4-2024 at 11:52 AM

John, Do you wear snake gaiters and full leather (snake) trail shoes on your dessert treks? If yes, can you recommend a source for these?

Also, I would like to know what make/model of water filter you carry, and how well you like it.

[Edited on 10-4-2024 by cupcake]

Fatboy - 10-4-2024 at 12:08 PM

Quote: Originally posted by cupcake  
John, Do you wear snake gaiters and full leather (snake) trail shoes on your dessert treks? If yes, can you recommend a source for these?

[Edited on 10-4-2024 by cupcake]


No, I don't.

I know they are popular with many hikers, though. Kevin and Genevieve do, and watch the videos of Cosby trips, he does also...




David K - 10-4-2024 at 12:37 PM

Quote: Originally posted by cupcake  
Quote: Originally posted by David K  
I am not sure what needs downloading. Please tell me which map you can't view


I was able to find and view a good interactive topo map that covers the entire peninsula. I could zoom in, which would add contour lines (changing the elevation intervals). Everything seemed to work properly, but I couldn't see how to download a given screen as a PDF. Perhaps this is not possible and the maps are not equiped with this option.

I am old school; I have never owned a tablet, a mobile phone. The maps I take on the trail are the paper type, so I was hoping to download and print some of those maps from your website.

[Edited on 10-4-2024 by cupcake]


Have you checked the caltopo.com link? That has the IEGI topo maps and allows customizing.

cupcake - 10-4-2024 at 01:04 PM

Quote: Originally posted by David K  

Have you checked the caltopo.com link? That has the IEGI topo maps and allows customizing.


I saw that yesterday, but just had another look, at your prompting, and was able to get an excellent PDF of the Mission San Borja area downloaded as a PDF. The PDF of the map area I selected has some information added at the bottom, it looks like the program does this automatically, and it includes distances in miles and km, as well as magnetic and true north. I am not yet certain of this, but it looks like the program calibrates this as you zoom in or zoom out, giving an accurate reading of distances automatically for the map scale selected. This is a wonderful feature. The map PDF looks to be a good resolution for printing a sharp usable hard copy. I can't attempt this from the computer I am presently using, but will do so later. Thanks much for the good direction on this.

Using printed maps from this program, in conjunction with the ECR marked trail on the Baja Atlas, looks like a person might safely attempt a section of the ECR with this data. Many other variables to be sure, like fences sprouting up across the ECR, etc.

Edit: Using David's ECR section descriptions on his Viva Baja website, and the Caltopo website, it was possible to download individual topo map PDF sheets for the entire San Borja to Santa Gertrudis ECR route, then use a free online combiner to make a single PDF (40 sheets at small scale and high resolution).

[Edited on 10-5-2024 by cupcake]

cupcake - 10-4-2024 at 01:16 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Fatboy  
Quote: Originally posted by cupcake  
John, Do you wear snake gaiters and full leather (snake) trail shoes on your dessert treks? If yes, can you recommend a source for these?

[Edited on 10-4-2024 by cupcake]


No, I don't.

I know they are popular with many hikers, though. Kevin and Genevieve do, and watch the videos of Cosby trips, he does also...


My hiking wear for my local San Gabriels (even when traveling cross country) consists of lycra type tights and Merrell Moab trail shoes; both items I imagine a snake could really sink its fangs into!

Looking forward to seeing the maps from your trip, please do post them.

[Edited on 10-5-2024 by cupcake]

Fatboy - 10-4-2024 at 06:53 PM

Quote: Originally posted by cupcake  


My hiking wear for my local San Gabriels (even when traveling cross country) consists of lycra type tights and Merrell Moab trail shoes; both items I imagine a snake could really sink its fangs into!

Looking forward to seeing the maps from your trip, please do post them.

[Edited on 10-5-2024 by cupcake]


I started this hike with a brand new pair of Merrell hiking shoes and 1 came apart on me, kinda sucks, trusted the Merrell name and reputation.

While I am kinda careful and watch where I am walking, snakes do not bother me too much it would suck to get bitten.

Fatboy - 10-4-2024 at 07:08 PM

2024 ECR HIKE KML post

Here is a screen shop of my path it goes Green(DAY 1), Yellow, Blue, White and DAY 5 is Red



ECR Hike 2024.jpg - 274kB

cupcake - 10-5-2024 at 11:12 AM

Quote: Originally posted by Fatboy  
Quote: Originally posted by cupcake  


My hiking wear for my local San Gabriels (even when traveling cross country) consists of lycra type tights and Merrell Moab trail shoes; both items I imagine a snake could really sink its fangs into!

Looking forward to seeing the maps from your trip, please do post them.

[Edited on 10-5-2024 by cupcake]


I started this hike with a brand new pair of Merrell hiking shoes and 1 came apart on me, kinda sucks, trusted the Merrell name and reputation.

While I am kinda careful and watch where I am walking, snakes do not bother me too much it would suck to get bitten.


Thanks for the Google Earth image with the superimposed trek days ^^

When I first started hiking in my Merrell Moabs, there quickly became some seperation of the rand from the toe point at the front of the shoes. I thought they were going to fall apart quickly on me, but that was three or so years ago and they have stayed the same at that point since then. Now, they are nearing the end of their life, getting worn out.

I've never done a multi day trek in the dessert. This presents a different set of risks and challenges! By yourself, with no other trail traffic, gear failures and/or injuries could easily turn life threatening. Knowing where the water sources are on the route and bail-out points (if there are any) seems to be mandatory.

[Edited on 10-5-2024 by cupcake]

David K - 10-5-2024 at 12:40 PM

Quote: Originally posted by cupcake  
https://filebin.net/5d3tohtydv79do3b

John, The above link is to a free online file sharing website. From that webpage, you can download a 23mb PDF I made of 40 topo map sheets for the San Borja to Santa Gertrudis section of the ECR. I don't know if this is anything you can use for the San Sebastian to San Borja section of the ECR that you might do in the future. The file stays available for 6 days (so the website claims), then I will delete this post.

The ECR is not marked on these map sheets, but I believe these are the sheets that cover the trail.




[Edited on 10-5-2024 by cupcake]


Well done, you!
Here is the northernmost map you made:



cupcake - 10-5-2024 at 01:58 PM

Thanks David. It would not have happened without you and your website.

Sometimes, such a small scale topo can be better with a larger scale overview, so I made a map PDF covering the same section, but in 8 map sheets instead of 40. The link for this is here:

https://filebin.net/9j430qu56gifbtp1

David K - 10-5-2024 at 02:02 PM

Awesome... and after watching Star Trek (the movie with Chris Pine), I realized my earlier 'cupcake' reference (to Guardians of the Galaxy) was wrong... It was in Star Trek, bar fight scene.

cupcake - 10-7-2024 at 12:47 PM

Quote: Originally posted by David K  
Awesome... and after watching Star Trek (the movie with Chris Pine), I realized my earlier 'cupcake' reference (to Guardians of the Galaxy) was wrong... It was in Star Trek, bar fight scene.


The post of Baja Bucko on this thread (excerpt below) has the vaquero / mule option looking like a good idea for this old cupcake:
https://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=37047
"I think I've ridden (mules) and a little bit backpacking- (that when I was a hippie in 1972) abt 90% of ECR from El Rosario to Loreto. Yes there are places where modern roads overlay places but for the most part this "road" was never intended for wheels and by 1900 the "main" path of travel was leaving El Camino Real for easier routes. There is the absolutely fascinating feeling to struggle and climb ( and pray that the mule stays upright!!!) and mule feet picking back and forth up and down cuestas only to find at the top of a mesa a perfectly-cleared rock-lined "road" I could drive a minivan on-for a 100 feet or so and then wham! back to the miles of worse-than-a-goat-trail to head down incredible rocky steep (reminiscing El Paraiso!!) and feel so gleeful that I lived to tell the tale! After every trip even wearing "armor" I still have spines popping out of me for months.

I have recvd many emails from people just thinking that hay-let's just backpack it and they have no clue that you need a local vaquero (he always knows when & where the water is this year) and when the trail becomes split in several same but not directions due to different uses at different times over the past 300 years-taking the WRONG path can get you dead or found wandering as dehydrated lion bait. Granted GPS has opened up a new world but its a lot of big country down there and there aren't forest service signs telling you how far it is to the next waterhole or THAT part of the trail is totally impassable 2 hours from where you are standing. ECR is NOT a park service thing-for the most part it is very wild country with many parts of the trails rarely seeing anyone except a cowboy every couple of years looking for cows or goats."

[Edited on 10-7-2024 by cupcake]

David K - 10-7-2024 at 01:19 PM

For sure, Baja Bucko knows what she is doing and how to go about it.
There are many ECR routes. Some replaced others and some were parallel used to visit different places between missions.

Most who know about the trail in Baja refer to the one Serra used going to San Diego, which was the one Harry Crosby researched and photographed the most. His 1977 maps show parallel routes, too. Kevin and his partner Genevieve (CaminoRealBaja.com) also show parallel routes on their map and they are actually hiking them seeking the correct route. They look for signs that can differentiate between modern cattle or goat trails, Boleo mine roads, and original Jesuit roads.

It was disappointing when Photobucket ended their free hosting which is why all those maps and satellite images I posted in 2009 have their watermark on them. I paid for a few years, as did other here, but they changed the deal again. Since then we began using PostImages.org for free photo hosting.

Thank you for you interest and for keeping these discussion active on Nomad!

Fatboy - 10-7-2024 at 03:12 PM

Quote: Originally posted by cupcake  
John, Do you wear snake gaiters ... a source for these?

Also, I would like to know what make/model of water filter you carry, and how well you like it.

[Edited on 10-4-2024 by cupcake]


Missed that second question, I use a Sawyer Mini Squeeze filter and it does just fine.

It is easy to plug up, but also easy to back flush.

Here are some places I get water from.....

A listed spring, it can be hard to get water from sources like this without getting a bunch of silt.

hoofprints in mud.jpg - 274kB


A stock tank on the trail, this was fairly good tasting water....

greenj water.jpg - 158kB


This was one of only 4 springs listed in 20 square miles. I spent several hours trying to free them, sinking in mud up to my waist and getting a terrible sunburn.

cows in water.jpg - 261kB

This is the water from where the cows were, I took some because I had no choice.

It was in the high 90's that day and I had miles to go to get to the next water source, that was NOT a fun day.

cow water.jpg - 315kB


There was a bad drought in Baja in 2022 and several 'waterholes' had dead cows near them and no water.

14 4 dead cows.jpg - 324kB

[Edited on 10-7-2024 by Fatboy]

cupcake - 10-7-2024 at 04:53 PM

John, Thanks for the good recommendation on the water filter and photos that really bring what you have done to life!

I suspect most if not all water filters would plug up in that kind of use.

I have only used a water filter on one trip, in 1998 in South America, when filtering out silt. I remember my filter quickly plugging up. I still have that filter, though I can't remember the brand, and I suspect after storage for the last quarter century it should just be replaced.

I have, over the years, often used iodine to purify water. This is what I would also do after filtering water in the ECR locations you photographed.

David K - 10-8-2024 at 09:12 AM

John, do you ever dig a hole next to a spring or stream to collect water (like a coyote well) rather than use the water that is already exposed and contaminated?
I am thinking of Naked and Afraid episodes where that is a common practice.

Fatboy - 10-8-2024 at 11:16 AM

Quote: Originally posted by David K  
John, do you ever dig a hole ....and contaminated?
I am thinking of Naked and Afraid episodes where that is a common practice.


Not really. I will enlarge a hole and allow it to fill sometimes but it is really slow to fill at some of these water spots.

Some of these sources are just seeps where it trickles out. I have spent up to an hour to get a little over a quart of water at times.

First I have to enlarge a hole big enough to use a cup in, then I let it settle out. Then with a small cup I can get 3 or 4 ounces at a time. Then you wait for it to refill and settle again to get another 3 or 4 ounces.

Perhaps, if it was a low sandy area, I would dig to allow it to fill.

I will probably do another hike up on the Kaiparowits Plateau in Southern Utah in the near future if anyone would like to join me.

Getting sort old to do this stuff by myself, cool ruins and views and no people.....anyone?

cupcake - 10-8-2024 at 12:09 PM

The Kaiparowits Plateau looks like an interesting area. At present, in reading about your trips on the ECR, I am wanting to get down to the mid-Baja area and see what kind of look I might have. There are a number of ECR threads you have made posts in and I remember one where you showed a photo of your thermometer reading 29 degrees. I would like to get down there before I have to deal with temps that low! Hopefully, less clothing to carry.

I am thinking the Santa Gertrudis to San Ignacio section might be good for me, as I travel by public transportation. If I start at Santa Gertrudis (paying to be driven in), then reaching San Ignacio puts me back at Highway 1 and on the bus line.

[Edited on 10-9-2024 by cupcake]