BajaNomad - Heading to Oaxaca via La Paz

Heading to Oaxaca via La Paz

WideAngleWandering - 10-15-2024 at 11:18 PM

Some friends wanted to visit Oaxaca at the end of October for some cactus juice, cricket topped tacos, and some spicy chocolate sauce. I figured great idea, let's drive! They figured, hell no, we're flying. I figured screw you guys I'm driving anyway because I have the best ideas.

So, some time in the next day or two once I have finished reassembling my truck, I plan to head south through Baja to La Paz, catch the ferry to Mazatlan, and make my way to Oaxaca City via highway 200 along the coast and then highway 131 north through the mountains. Goal is to meet friends on Oct 29 in the city.

I did this once before about 12 years ago. I remember it was pretty easy to get a TIP and buy a ferry ticket in La Paz. I remember the road from the coast to Oaxaca City was steep and twisty. I remember highway 200 took waaaaay longer than I expected but was really beautiful.

Best guess - is it better to get a vehicle TIP at the ferry terminal in Pichilingue? Or is it better to do in Tijuana at the border crossing? I've heard they won't issue one at the border. I've also heard stories of people being turned way from the ferry and sent back to the border. I already have an FMM but I'll stop at customs if I need to for a TIP.
Does anyone have any recommendations on forums / groups with travel info on the mainland? Last time I did this I used some forums/communities that no longer exist.
I'm not usually one to get nervous about cartel violence, but the chit kicking off in Culiacan this past month seems a bit different. Thoughts? I'm hoping that starting the mainland trip in Mazatlan will let me avoid getting caught up in anything.

Tioloco - 10-16-2024 at 05:03 AM

-I would try getting the TIP in TJ just for the peace of mind so you dont have to worry about it in Pichilingue.

- I think your route starting in Mazatlan will avoid the Sonora,Chihuahua and Culiacan narco traffic. Good idea to me.

- Driving vs flying? I agree with you. You are going to have a way bigger adventure and much more fun! Enjoy!

BooJumMan - 10-16-2024 at 06:00 AM

Sounds like an awesome trip!

chippy - 10-16-2024 at 08:06 AM

You might want to check Zihua Robs and Tomzap Puerto Escondido boards to get some road reports.
The roads in Guerrero and Oaxaca got pretty beat up this rainy season. Last I heard it´s all drivable now but lotsa of road rebuilding.
The new toll road Lencho linked has been really slow due to so many landslides.
You might want to book your ferry now so you don't get hung up in La Paz for days.
If you have a pet and can sleep in your rig I would use the TMC ferry,If not then I would book a cabin on Baja Ferrys you won´t get much sleep if you don´t.
The Michoacan coast will be more beautiful than normal right now! Green and the Barcinos will be flowering.
I should be at my place in Melaque when you pass thru PM me if you need a place to camp or info.

Good Luck

Ateo - 10-16-2024 at 08:22 AM

WAW: Sounds epic. I did this solo in my early 20's back in '95.....(down to Puerto Escondido and Oaxaca City). I don't remember much about that trip or the TIP but I think I got mine in La Paz at the terminal. Good idea to take the ferry to Mazatlan and avoid northern Sinaloa and Culiacan. Lots of new roads now. Live now before we all die!

[Edited on 10-16-2024 by Ateo]

A warning about stopping in Melaque!

AKgringo - 10-16-2024 at 08:35 AM

W.A.W., If you take Chippy up on his offer of hospitality, you may have a very difficult time getting back into your rig and driving to Oaxaca! I love that place!

surabi - 10-16-2024 at 11:39 AM

Quote: Originally posted by chippy

The roads in Guerrero and Oaxaca got pretty beat up this rainy season. Last I heard it´s all drivable now but lotsa of road rebuilding.

To add, don't assume that rainy season is "over". There have been hurricanes and flooding in November on the mainland.

WideAngleWandering - 10-16-2024 at 11:51 AM

Thanks all for the advice. This is great.

Would love to find some recent experience on getting the TIP but I suppose I can just stop in Tijuana and make the attempt.

Good to know about the new road to Oaxaca city. The old one was fun / challenging, especially in the rain. When I did this way back when it was raining and gusting so hard coming down the mountain that one of my windshield wipers flew off. Finding that on the side of a twisty mountain road in a storm was fun.

I've never taking the TMC ferry. No pets and while I could sleep in my rig, it would be uncomfortable if I couldn't put the top up. I am guessing there isn't enough height in the vehicle hold for that.

chippy - 10-16-2024 at 02:29 PM

You can pop the top. I do with my alu cab camper. You park topsides on the deck. Fresh air,starlink and access to my fridge make it my prefered ferry

Ateo - 10-16-2024 at 07:35 PM

AI search and Google show you can supposedly apply online too or pick up at border crossing at Bajercito. No idea if the Internet is telling the truth though:

https://www.banjercito.com.mx/registroVehiculos/

WideAngleWandering - 10-16-2024 at 07:44 PM

I know some folks who get them online but they told me you need at least 10 days lead time.

Chippy, that sounds like a great way to cross. Do you book in advance? And thank you for the offer to visit. I hope to do so but I need to get further underway before I know when and where I need to be.

surabi - 10-16-2024 at 11:32 PM

I got a TIP at the ferry, but that was many years ago, and things may certainly have changed. One thing I remember is that they wanted copies of all my paperwork and we had to go back to La Paz to make copies, because there was nowhere there to do so. Hopefully that has changed, but you might want to make sure to have copies of all your car paperwork and passport and drivers license and insurance before you get to the ferry to get the TIP.

What was funny was that my daughter, who was about 21 at the time, and spoke good Spanish, was with me, and when the guy said we'd have to go make copies, she pointed to the photocopier we could see right behind the guy and asked, "But isn't that a photocopier you have right there?"

He said yes, but it wasn't for making copies of our paperwork. Typical Mexican pointless absurdity, gotta love it.

pacificobob - 10-17-2024 at 06:26 AM

Wherever you get the tip, the above council for copies is spot on.
Title, registration, insurance.... everything.... And lots.

chippy - 10-17-2024 at 06:47 AM

Quote: Originally posted by WideAngleWandering

I know some folks who get them online but they told me you need at least 10 days lead time.

Chippy, that sounds like a great way to cross. Do you book in advance? And thank you for the offer to visit. I hope to do so but I need to get further underway before I know when and where I need to be.

I have only booked tmc while in La Paz at their office on Olachea blvd. Baja ferries I've booked in advance many times using their website.

advrider - 10-17-2024 at 09:44 AM

Sounds awesome, keep us posted. I would do the TIP in TJ just to be safe. My friends did it earlier this year and were glad they had the TIP beforehand, as they asked at the terminal and received several different answers.

baja-chris - 10-17-2024 at 11:07 AM

Most likey that folks who reported having to go back to the border were missing required paperwork. You will need it all and in duplicate.
Nevertheless, I'd try to get the TIP at the border, just to remove uncertainty.

WideAngleWandering - 10-17-2024 at 03:10 PM

Looks like I'll be reaching the border Sat morning. I hope aduana and banjercito are open then.

WideAngleWandering - 10-20-2024 at 10:02 AM

Well getting my slightly unusual vehicle imported was a hassle because I don't have all the expected VIN plates but after striking out at San ysidro I was able to get it done at Otay. Took a while and I suspect they were getting approvals or something in the background.

Anyhow I made it to San Felipe after a marathon drive.

Now to figure out the ferries. There are no cabins available on the Tues ferry. The Thurs ferry would be seriously cramping my schedule.

So I am trying to decide if I should haul burro to La Paz and attempt the TMC ferry at 5pm on Monday.

Only problem is I slept way too long. Needed it. But we will see.

One thing's for sure - being in a hurry in Baja feels so wrong.

[Edited on 2024-10-20 by WideAngleWandering]

AKgringo - 10-20-2024 at 11:07 AM

Is the Santa Rosalia to Guaymas ferry still available, and would that even be helpful? The Benchmark Atlas (2021 edition) shows departures from S.R. on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, but that still leaves a long drive to Oaxaca.

WideAngleWandering - 10-20-2024 at 11:49 AM

Appreciate the tip. I promised my girl i wouldnt drive through Culiacan hence the ferry to Mazatlan. I have never been through a cartel checkpoint before. Im sure it wouod be fine. But I'm gonna keep my word.

I do want to take that ferry some day for a copper canyon trip.

But for now since TMC is not answering on a Sunday, I am just gonna hoof it and see what I can make happen. Aside from watching all this gorgeous scenery fly by, the worst part is the stomach bug I picked up back home. Doing this drive on a steady diet of yogurt licuados and coffee. I want some birria damnit.

I'm hoping to get to the main land with enough slack that I can find a beach camp to set up my hammock and maybe do some fishing on my way to Oaxaca.

Worst case I have more long driving days down and can have a more leisurely return.

[Edited on 2024-10-20 by WideAngleWandering]

[Edited on 2024-10-20 by WideAngleWandering]

watizname - 10-21-2024 at 07:27 AM

Boy, this sounds like a really fun trip. My wife and I had a lot of fun exploring Baja years back. Always had thoughts of taking the ferry, but my camper seemed programed for Punta Chivato and southern Baja. To old now, which sucks. Have fun, be careful, and try not to hurry too much.

WideAngleWandering - 10-21-2024 at 07:50 AM

Thanks! I like my Baja trips to be a bit leisurely so this has been a hustle. I've thought about doing more mainland trips but I usually get sucked into a slower Baja way of being.

This time I'm on a mission.

Hopefully this works out. I just found a small beach I visited by bus / colectivo decades ago when I was a student.

From the pictures it doesn't look like its changed much. I hope to spend some time there. If I have it.

[Edited on 2024-10-21 by WideAngleWandering]

mtgoat666 - 10-21-2024 at 08:29 AM

Quote: Originally posted by WideAngleWandering

Well getting my slightly unusual vehicle imported was a hassle because I don't have all the expected VIN plates but after striking out at San ysidro I was able to get it done at Otay. Took a while and I suspect they were getting approvals or something in the background.

Anyhow I made it to San Felipe after a marathon drive.

Now to figure out the ferries. There are no cabins available on the Tues ferry. The Thurs ferry would be seriously cramping my schedule.

So I am trying to decide if I should haul burro to La Paz and attempt the TMC ferry at 5pm on Monday.

Only problem is I slept way too long. Needed it. But we will see.

One thing's for sure - being in a hurry in Baja feels so wrong.

[Edited on 2024-10-20 by WideAngleWandering]

Sounds like your schedule is unrealistically compressed. Probably would be better to fly. Next time fly. Save time and money. The money saved can be used on nicer lodging.

soulpatch - 10-21-2024 at 12:24 PM

I've driven through Sinaloa a number of times this past year and the year prior.

I'm not likely to do it again for a long time, at least until things settle down.

Some of the checkpoints are actually cartel and some aren't but, hell, they're all in business and we got hot stopped in Mazatlan which was interesting and the searches on the 15D got interesting as well.

You'll probably be just fine but, then again, a number of people I know personally, just like us, got turned inside out to the point of full body searches ( clothes on ) and hit up hard for cash which, of course, we only had enough for the 3 tolls that won't take the PASE.

We saw other people handing over cash due to fear and also pocketing of cash by those that had it hidden in all the usual places.

It's just a bit of a weird time through there right now.

mtgoat666 - 10-21-2024 at 03:18 PM

Quote: Originally posted by soulpatch

I've driven through Sinaloa a number of times this past year and the year prior.

I'm not likely to do it again for a long time, at least until things settle down.

Some of the checkpoints are actually cartel and some aren't but, hell, they're all in business and we got hot stopped in Mazatlan which was interesting and the searches on the 15D got interesting as well.

You'll probably be just fine but, then again, a number of people I know personally, just like us, got turned inside out to the point of full body searches ( clothes on ) and hit up hard for cash which, of course, we only had enough for the 3 tolls that won't take the PASE.

We saw other people handing over cash due to fear and also pocketing of cash by those that had it hidden in all the usual places.

It's just a bit of a weird time through there right now.

Frightening!

I see the usa state dept travel advisory lists sinaloa as “do not travel to.” Colima, guerrero, michoacan, tamaulipas, zacatecas, and other areas too.

soulpatch - 10-21-2024 at 05:00 PM

I'm not trying to stir any chiite here, so take this as just my experience.

Sinaloa has always been a little vibey for my tastes and back in 2012-13 I had some very strange encounters there with the law.
They all ended up fine but the spookiest was when the PJR had abandoned their normal checkpoint and there were about 50 cowboys on horses that all had military looking weapons on them just kind of patrolling it.
A couple were dismounted and looked through my stuff, briefly, without saying a word and then waved me on.

This last year there have been a lot of stories, some from people I know directly that were robbed.
The people at the toll booths state that they are mostly ex-PGR and not legit but there isn't really anything they can do about it.

Who knows, I don't nor do I want to at this point but my relatively recent experiences driving through there got my and my wife's attention.

To be honest, I'm not that used to another man's hands in my pockets while having a guy on either side of me and one behind me patting me down nor did my wife much appreciate getting searched thoroughly on the side of the road.

We thanked them for their thoroughness and professionalism when they finally told us we could leave and they laughed about that.
I also asked them if they could radio ahead to the next one coming up to tell them we were legit and they got a good laugh out of that, too.

My buddy got his dash removed by them and they decided the $600 he had in his wallet along with a few thousand pesos was theirs.
And, unlike me, my friend is Mexican.

Anyway, most people are fine, it just sucks when you hit the lottery with those guys.

This is kind of telling, too.

FWIW, my friends in Nayarit that are from Culiacán won't go up there now to visit family regularly like they did even into the spring of this year.
They worry too much about the drive and where they would sometimes meet family in Mazatlan their family doesn't feel safe driving there, now, with the random stops of cars and the guys checking the messaging on the phones for associates.

It's really an odd time there.

WideAngleWandering - 10-21-2024 at 05:10 PM

Quote: Originally posted by soulpatch

You'll probably be just fine but, then again, a number of people I know personally, just like us, got turned inside out to the point of full body searches ( clothes on ) and hit up hard for cash which, of course, we only had enough for the 3 tolls that won't take the PASE.

We saw other people handing over cash due to fear and also pocketing of cash by those that had it hidden in all the usual places..

Fun reading as I wait to board the ferry to Mazatlan.

This is the most harrowing personal account anyone has shared with me yet. I take it your stories are about the region north of Mazatlan? Or do I need to be prepared for this sort of thing as I head south to Puerto vallarta and points beyond?

mtgoat666 - 10-21-2024 at 05:29 PM

Quote: Originally posted by WideAngleWandering

Quote: Originally posted by soulpatch

Read the usa state dept travel warnings. Read the news. Talk to locals.

https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-tra...

From state dept.

Guerrero state – Do Not Travel

Do not travel due to crime.

Crime and violence are widespread. Armed groups operate independently of the government in many areas of Guerrero. Members of these groups frequently maintain roadblocks and may use violence towards travelers. U.S. citizens and LPRs have been victims of kidnapping in previous years.

U.S. government employees may not travel to any area in the state of Guerrero, including to tourist areas in Acapulco, Zihuatanejo, Taxco, and Ixtapa.

Michoacan state – Do Not Travel

Do not travel due to crime and kidnapping.

Crime and violence are widespread in Michoacan state.
Travel for U.S. government employees is limited to the following areas with the noted restrictions:

Federal Highway 15D: U.S. government employees may travel on Federal Highway 15D to transit the state between Mexico City and Guadalajara.
Morelia: U.S. government employees may travel by air and by land using Federal Highways 43 or 48D from Federal Highway 15D.
Lazaro Card##as: U.S. government employees must travel by air only and limit activities to the city center or port areas.

To view a map of the restricted areas, visit https://mx.usembassy.gov/maps-of-restricted-areas

U.S. government employees may not travel to other areas of the state of Michoacan, including the portions of the Monarch Butterfly Reserve located in Michoacan.

[Edited on 10-22-2024 by mtgoat666]

WideAngleWandering - 10-21-2024 at 05:56 PM

Quote: Originally posted by chippy

You can pop the top. I do with my alu cab camper. You park topsides on the deck. Fresh air,starlink and access to my fridge make it my prefered ferry

Despite the conversation i had with the cargo dude...

They put me on the ramp!

This is going to suck lol. Chippy you're on my chit list