bigzaggin - 6-7-2005 at 06:29 PM
Headed down last EARLY Wednesday (6/1) with a Baja newbie as co-pilot - a non-surfing, Chicago transplant (w/surprisingly good GPS skills) - made
Rosario by three and the turnoff to points below by four. Spent a few nites camped in a gully near the point, surfing head-high, late season rights
alone while my friend sat slack-jawed at the solitude and hunted the tallest cactus. A few halibut hit on blue & silver spoons and wound up in
the frying pan.
Friday we headed back to the 1 and, per a deal in which I promised him warm water, crossed over to Cortes via Coco's Corner. Despite years of
hearing about this curious desert dweller, I'd never actually been by his pad and it was a trip. Didn't know about the peg-leg and the beer can art
was every bit as cool as I'd been told. Had a few beers, heard a few stories, heeded his warnings and headed up to Bufeo, just below Gonzaga. Over
some bumpy as hell terrain (should have aired down) and after a middle-of-absolute-nowhere checkpoint we rolled up to the headland near dusk, sitting
up just in its shadow. Jumped in to wash the dust off and settled down for a long nite of Tecates, my big ole Grundig getting the Dodger game.
Sublime.
Spent the next few days landing smallish cabrilla off the rocks and some big "cochito" aka triggers (good fight), mostly on cut squid we found on the
beach. Though I'd heard trigger was edible, I'd never actually tried it 'till this trip. Tough to filet but - fried with butter and garlic salt - it
was delicious, like a beefy halibut. Did a lot of "sitting there," watching the sea, lizards, birds, etc (what is that strange, Dark Crystal looking
bird with long, jointed legs and a thick head of shaggy, glam-rock hair? Anyone?).
Our favorable wind switched on Monday so we pulled up stakes and headed north, passing those GORGEOUS coves above Puertocitos (anyone ever camp
there?) and rolling to San Felipe around dark. The plan had been to cross over Highway 3 that night but, after AN HOUR waiting at the checkpoint and
not knowing the road well, I opted for caution (I?m growing up!) and headed back to camp amongst the 4X4 dudes on the beach at Pete's Camp (mosquitos?
YES)... Pete himself sat David Lynch style in his office, clouded thick with cigar smoke. A character.
A quick note from that nite for those who'd curse the Baja feds (as I sometimes do). We decided to turn around AFTER crossing the checkpoint and so
basically re-crossed it 10 minutes later. When we did, I explained to the suspect guard that I was just too tired and he pointed out a few places to
camp along the road. The following morning, when we headed back, that same guard was still working. He asked if we found somewhere to sleep, how our
nite was etc., and finished by saying, ?That road (hwy 3) is dangerous at nite. You did the right thing.?
Good thing anyway, ?cause the mid-morning drive through Valle was GORGEOUS. Having focused on wavehunting for most of my 15 years heading down, I?d
never made that crossing. Loved it. Especially the ?skull rocks? and the high desert blooms.
The rest is mundane. Scored really fun San Miguel, alone (!) after three typically grumpy locals got out. An FYI, San Miguel local surfers do not
understand localism. It?s an asinine concept as is, but AT LEAST have the smarts to practice it on disrespectful idiots, not indiscriminately. They
vibe EVERYONE and please don?t try the ?well, Americans raped their homeland? defense.? People who show respect deserve respect everywhere period.
That small crew of marooons represent the Baja minority, in a land where people smile and wave by nature. Anyway, they got out and it got way
better.
Crossed the border last nite in near-record time and am once again left wondering how to get that pesky squid smell out of the cooler. And how?s
this for a milagro: not one flat (but some new ?ringing? sound behind my left front tire?anyone?)
It goes without saying, I hate being back and am already planning the next mission. To those surfers who?ve shunned Cortes to date, I?m telling you,
there?s magic over there (and we even saw some longboard-able wind swell!).
Oh yeah...
bigzaggin - 6-7-2005 at 06:30 PM
will try to post a few pictures soon.
Bajaboy - 6-7-2005 at 09:38 PM
Nice, refreshing post. Thanks for taking the time to share.
Zac
Arthur - 6-8-2005 at 05:48 PM
Yeah. Keep posting!
Arthur