mulege marv - 9-25-2005 at 04:39 AM
laha , you can never cure it, its the salt. so cover it up with laha. this wall had the same problem
[Edited on 9-25-2005 by mulege marv]
[Edited on 9-25-2005 by mulege marv]
i hate it
mulege marv - 9-25-2005 at 04:47 AM
this 50kb thing on pics is a pain !
Bob and Susan - 9-25-2005 at 07:02 AM
Salt?YUK!!!
Laha is similar to hot roofing tar?doesn?t hold paint well.
Hydro Block Sealer
$150
5 Gallons
http://store.endurosealstore.com/index.html
Above or Below Ground use.
All concrete block must be clean, no paint or sealers.
Accepts paint or stucco
Chemicals?yes?
Pay to Play!!!
dono - 9-25-2005 at 07:33 AM
Pompano, I live on the beach north of los Barriles and I use elastomeric paint outside and inside. my guest house is going on ten years and no
problems, the main house is about 3 yrs old and went through hurricane Marty with nary a paint problem. It costs a little more, but is usually
guarnteed for 7 yrs.
Anonymous - 9-25-2005 at 09:29 AM
Pompano, I think the problem originates from moisture entering the blocks from the soil. The only way to avoid this is to waterproof the footing
before the blocks are laid, and also waterproof any area that will be backfilled and come in contact with soil. Topical solutions don't work, just
paint again. With time this moisture will also disintergrate the blocks. Builders in Loreto are starting to be aware of this and useing waterproofing.
You still see this problem in all the old buildings.
Phil C - 9-25-2005 at 09:32 AM
Oop's I wasn't loged in. It's me with the last post, not Annon.
Diver - 9-25-2005 at 09:52 AM
Phil has it right.
Without having waterproofed the footer, the footer/wall will wick moisture and salt up the wall with each morning's dew. A color stucco mix applied
with a bonding agent will work for much longer but will probably not be permanent. Maybe tape a line on the wall, scrape below the line, apply a
liquid penetrating sealer/bonding agent, then apply some pre-colored stucco mix with a trowel or heavy brush. When it starts peeling in a few to 10
years, you can use the same method for patching.
pealing paint
Julie - 9-25-2005 at 09:52 AM
We have 3 original buildings here at the Iguana Inn in Loreto. The oldest was built in the late 50's the newer ones in the early 60's. Needless to say
they did not seal the foundation.
The floors are stone and believe me when I say we do not need a tide chart, all we have to do is look at the floor, or slip on it to know it's up.
We are constantly scraping, sealing , plastering and painting. We have used every product know to man.
What works best for us, (and by best I mean it will last in the dry season about 6-7 months) is scrape down to the block or brick, apply Sellador in
3 to 1 concetration, let it dry completely, then plaster, then sellador again, dry and paint.
We are able to do this process in our sleep but the walls always look freshly painted.
Buena Suerte
Julie Ramos
Iguana Inn
bajaden - 9-26-2005 at 10:55 PM
Plastic, Pompano, Plastic. Its the only way to go. Or just tear the wall down. I guess I'm not very helpful.
Phil S - 9-27-2005 at 07:53 AM
Pompano. Your comment "guess we shouldn't have used "beach sand"!!!! Had to chuckle with that one. Hee hee hee!!! Were you serious with that
comment?
Paint
Big Al - 9-27-2005 at 08:44 AM
A common cause of peeling on surfaces composed of mortar, brick, building block or concrete is efflorescence, where soluble salts are present. When
dissolved by water, they are carried to the surface and remain after the water has evaporated. These salts can push paint away from the surface and
peeling results. Efflorescence occurs on brick walls of new construction. A common building practice is to treat new brick or concrete with muriatic
acid, rinsing with water to clean away excess mortar. Rinsing removes only those salts on or near the surface. After painting, salts remaining within
the bricks will absorb the moisture and travel to the surface, causing peeling. Peeling can also occur when alkyd or oil paint is applied over
unetched concrete. Alkyd resins that come in contact with an alkaline surface form a soap film between the concrete surface and the coating, called
saponification. This will cause softness and loss of adhesion of the alkyd coating.
Solution:
If efflorescence is evident, it must be removed before repainting. First, remove all flaking or chalking paint from the damaged area by wire brushing
or sandblasting. If necessary, try applying a solution of 5% muriatic acid or undiluted vinegar. Rinse with clean water. Fill all cracks with masonry
patching compound, latex concrete patch, or caulking compound. If the surface is very porous, apply an alkali-resistant primer or block filler. Cover
with latex house paint. To prevent recurrence of efflorescence on interior walls, the exterior walls should be sealed. NOTE: Extraneous water sources
must be removed before painting (e.g. migration at ground level, often caused by poor drainage).
paint
tehag - 9-27-2005 at 03:55 PM
Salitre is the name of the condition, and it is from unsealed costruction at and below ground level. I have tried many things and as yet have had no
success at all. The very expensive elastomeric lasted a little longer than regular paint but only because it peeled off in much larger pieces. I think
it's either live with it or start over. The laja may last quite a while, but it can outlast the wall its on, and when it goes there is a real mess.
Nothing will stick permanently to the crystalizing salt that wicks up your walls. NOTHING!
Cincodemayo - 9-27-2005 at 04:47 PM
Plants and pots...