BajaNomad

San Felipe to BOLA via Gonzaga Bay

Selkie - 10-10-2005 at 07:16 AM

Planning to leave for San Felipe Oct. 18, meet friends, and head south to Gonzaga. 3 vehicles going-an old Chevy 4wd pickup , a Toyota PreRunner, and a one ton Chevy dually with big camper(10 ft.). Spend 2 days at Gonzaga, then head to BOLA from Mex 1. We have reservations at Gecko for about a week. Any recommendations for camping at Gonzaga? How is the road from Puertocitos to Gonzaga, then out to Mex. 1? Thanks-
Gail T. (Selkie)

bajaden - 10-10-2005 at 11:15 AM

I haven't taken the road since july, so hard to say if its changed much. Most parts of the road are extremely rocky, so weather doesn't affect them much. There are some area's where you cross some washes, and heavy rain can affect them. Most times a 4 wheel drive can make it.

Lets put it this way. I've been through that road over a hundred times and I've never had a problem yet. I'd advise carrying two spares. There is camping on the other side of the runway. I always stay at Alfonsia's. Their wonderful people, and they could use the business.

The road out to HW 1 is usually better. Stop and say hi to Coco at Coco's corner. Buy a couple of cervesa's from him. I hope he's doing alright, I heard that he was ill again. By way, it looked like they were going to open the new Pemex station at Gonzaga when I was there in july.

Camping at Gonzaga Bay------

Barry A. - 10-10-2005 at 12:11 PM

The beaches at Gonzaga are extremely sandy, and that can get frustrating-------i.e. you drive all that way, and then cannot camp on the beach because you don't have 4x4, or you are too heavy to venture out on the sand by the water. Alfonsina's is a good alternative, and you are right on the water, but no camping right there, as far as I know (lots of Gringo houses). You would be staying in the nice motel. As suggested, you can pay for sites at the east end of the major runway, just south of Alfonsina's but I was never too thrilled with that site as it was not well maintained. It is hard surface, and right on the water, but very exposed. It has been 2 years since I have been there, so maybe it has been fixed up by now.

Papa Fernandez's is a nice alternative (on the tiny bay just north of Alfonsina's) and is historical, very friendly people, and has a great restaurant. You can camp (at least we always do) on the low bluffs (like a flat plateau) right above the bay just west of Papa's, and nobody has ever bothered us, or said we can't stay there. We have camped west of the houses maybe 500 yards. This is all hard surface and no problems for 2 wheel drive, and you can walk to the restaurant in the morning, or evenings. If you don't mind a little junkyness, you can drive a little further west from Papa's down into the arroyo at the base of the waterfront mountain, 1/2 mile west of Papa's, and there you can get right on the water, but it is rocky. We have camped there many times and love it as it is out of the wind, out of sight, and right on the water. A really snug camp which could accomodate maybe 5 vehicles close together. But it is junky as it was once a fish-camp. Not smelly, tho. You can also walk to Papa's restaurant from there, but it is about a 1/2 mile.

The camping at the south end of the main Gonzaga Bay (opposite Snoopies Island) is problematic as it is developed (gringo houses, and very old and junky), and we always found that we were not particularly encouraged to camp there, and we did not think it too pleasant. I have never camped there-----just looked at it, and went back to Papa's, or pulled out on the beach just south of Alfonsina's and the Gringo houses, but north of the main runway-----a truly beautiful site but you need 4-wheel drive and big tires.

I understand that there are now some newer camps established on the beach between Alfonsina's and Snoopy's but I am not familiar with them. Lots of sand dunes along this stretch of beach making it difficult to access, at least in the old days it was. Maybe somebody else on this board can update us on that one.

bufeo - 10-10-2005 at 01:16 PM

We have a house at Punta Bufeo, so I can't comment on the camping, although lots of folks camp on our beach (which you can reach w/o 4WD) and it's possible to drive to near the beach in 2WD at Beluga (S of Gonzaga) and Pta Final.

As far as the road from Puertecitos, we just came out last week and it's the worst we've seen it in six years.

The new pavement south of San Felipe is completed to approx. Km 53, then the road gives way to about 35 km of awful potholes. Some are axle breakers if you're not careful.

If you're used to airing-down you tires, then I suggest you do so. We drive an F-250 and I drop the pressure to 25psi ? (depending on our load).

After Puertecitos, you have a dirt/gravel road that gets a fair amount of grading maintenance for the first 8 mi (owing to the fact that it's maintained by a pvt mining co), then.... .

Rocks, sharp rocks, and more rocks. Wind has exposed much of the underneath stuff that can tear tires up. Go prepared.

We've gotten used to the road, but it's bad, no question.

Bufeo-----

Barry A. - 10-10-2005 at 01:23 PM

Donde es Beluga???? Is this what I refer to as "Snoopy"? at the extreme south end of the main bay?? I do not see "Beluga" on the map in the "Baja Atlas".

David K - 10-10-2005 at 05:30 PM

Campo Beluga is a newer palapa campground, just south of Rancho Grande, which is on the south side of Alfonsina's property... Looks promissing!

thebajarunner - 10-10-2005 at 06:48 PM

Go to the little cafe at Papa's.
Note, on your right is a rather beat up boat ramp (it works o.k.)
Straight ahead, past a flimsy looking rope gate, there is a cluster of beat up shacks, etc.
Ask for permission to drive through the gate, over the little hill you see amidst the houses, and
VOILA>>> one really sweet secluded beach, some beat up palapas and maybe an outhouse.
Go to the far (North) end of the beach.
Firm surface, great beach, wonderful place!!!
Negotiate the rental, we paid $75 for a week for a dozen of us two years ago!!
Report back, for sure.

bajarunner-------

Barry A. - 10-10-2005 at 07:17 PM

Wow, that is good to hear. When we camped there about 18 years ago that beach was really soft sand, with dunes, and we could not get down to the water with our vehicles (we tried, and got really stuck)----had to camp on the salt flat about 100 yds from the water, and walk over the dunes to get to the water. That is great that it has changed for the better. That is a good location, but subject to the NE winds, in Fall.

David-----

Barry A. - 10-10-2005 at 07:20 PM

That location for Campo Beluga looks like the place where there was an Army encampment back several years ago. At the time we thought that it would be a good camping place, but the Army was not to enthused about us camping there, at the time. Have they pulled out??

bufeo - 10-10-2005 at 07:28 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Barry A.
Donde es Beluga???? Is this what I refer to as "Snoopy"? at the extreme south end of the main bay?? I do not see "Beluga" on the map in the "Baja Atlas".


The road to Beluga is just south of the Rancho Grande store. You can also reach Campo Beluga by turning east out to Alfonsina's and Campo Rancho Grande and then turning right at the beach and following the beach road down to it. We just drove that and never got into 4WD. The main road is easier because there's a sign on the road "Campo Beluga".

bajarunner makes a good suggestion. The beach he describes is out towards Punta Willard and is quite nice. I have no idea what the charges are.

I've also sent you a U2U msg with details you might want to have.

David K - 10-10-2005 at 08:02 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Barry A.
That location for Campo Beluga looks like the place where there was an Army encampment back several years ago. At the time we thought that it would be a good camping place, but the Army was not to enthused about us camping there, at the time. Have they pulled out??


The military camp is on the main road between the turnoff to Papa's and Alfonsina's with a checkpoint there. Beluga is a newer tourist camp (less than 5 years old, maybe)... no military camp there when I checked it out.

bufeo - 10-10-2005 at 08:07 PM

I don't know where Barry A. was exactly, but the military were down on the beach for a while. They abandoned that spot some years ago.

bajaden - 10-10-2005 at 11:28 PM

David K has it right. The military camp is after the turnoff to Papa's and just before you turn into Gonzaga bay. I had no trouble on the beach at the south end. I would'n call the resturant at Papa Fernandez great. Its worth seeing just for the pictures on the wall, but the food at Alfonsina's is much better.

Selkie - 10-11-2005 at 06:19 AM

Thanks, everyone!
Nice map, Dave-it will be helpful. I have heard of Camp Beluga, and want to check it out. Don't want any chance of getting stuck in sand. My Taco can be pulled out, but friend's dually with heavy camper would be a nightmare.
Gail T.

Bob and jane - 10-11-2005 at 07:32 AM

We just came down the road from San Felipe to Gonzaga last week--the first time in 10 plus years. We drove an older Dodge Ram diesel with a pop up camper loaded with books and misc for the next 9 months down here. It took us 7 hours to go from Bosque Nuevo Mazatlan to Campo Beluga with just a short stop in Puertocitos and a pit stop along the way. Beautiful vistas but the hills were relentless rocks and the washboards were gut wrenching. Guess we should have aired down. Usually we can get up to speed and run the top of the washboards but we just couldn't get it done on this road. Maybe because of our weight, don't know. Campo Beluga is clean with flush toilets and nice showers but a rocky beach. The owner, Rafael, who lives in the states most of the time, was there. He told us that he had sold half his property to Vicente Fox's wife, who was going to put in a big resort. If this were to happen the road would surely be paved............Bad roads, good roads. Rumors and more rumors.

From Space!

David K - 10-11-2005 at 07:57 AM

Here's a couple views from high above...

So much history...

David K - 10-11-2005 at 08:09 AM

Near the west shore of Bahia San Luis Gonzaga (between Alfonsina's and Papa Fernandez') are the ruins of a warehouse, built by the missionaries. Ships off loaded supplies here for the missions of Santa Maria de los Angeles and San Fernando Velicata. Pack animals took the supplies west from this place beginning around 1768.

The cargo trail can be followed by foot or mule, and there is even a geocache along the way, placed by Baja Bucko...

More history...

David K - 10-11-2005 at 08:20 AM

Near Punta Final are the ruins of Lacy's Mill (Molino de Lacy/ Molino de San Francisquito) where gold from nearby mines was processed and shipped out from Puerto de San Francisquito (today's Punta Final Resort), on the south shore of the larger bay 'Ensenada de San Francisquito' (also called Gonzaga by most people). William Lacy is burried there...








[Edited on 10-11-2005 by David K]

Geology at Gonzaga Bay, too!

David K - 10-11-2005 at 08:27 AM

If you are on the beach and looking west you see a large white area that looks like snow, it is a giant soda spring area that is creating onyx, just a couple miles from Gonzaga Bay... Onyx boulders line the arroyo as you approach this 'glacier' in the desert!






roverdude - 10-11-2005 at 08:35 AM

You can actually camp at Alphonsinas. But we were only two with two dogs. Plopped a chaise lounge under the palapa. There was a group camping up the sand bar towards Isle Willard. Makes for an easy 60 second walk to Alphonsinas for some good grub.
Map of area

1962 Map by Howard Gulick

David K - 10-11-2005 at 09:11 AM

This correctly names the bays at Gonzaga according to historical documents... The boaters' nautical maps have misnamed Gonzaga as 'Willard Bay' for a long time... from the point by Papa's which is Punta Willard...

Out beyond Punta Final-----

Barry A. - 10-11-2005 at 09:51 AM

If you have a boat, go out beyond the geographical point of "Punta Final" and down the coast to the south a little way. If you look at David's sat photos posted on this thread, you can see some great little baylets just south of Punta Final. They are really interesting, and beautiful, and the fishing is good all around this area. (or it used to be good). There are also some great geological aberations there. Also, the baylet on the west side of Punta Final is interesting in a boat. (it also shows up on the sat photos). Big crabs here, if you can catch them.

There are some obsidian quarries on the island between Gonzaga bay and San Francisquito bay (the island opposite Alfonsina's--Isla San Luis Gonzaga) that were used by the original inhabitants of the area.

The big "bulge" of land that sticks out into Bahia San Francisquito between the air strip and Snoopies Island has some insidious rocks just under the water surface (some stick out of the water at low tide) that can take your lower case off your outboard if you are not careful. My son learned that the hard way------wham, no lower case-----good thing we had extra motors as it was the first day of arrival for a 9 day stay. This happened not 10 mins. after he launched his boat and took it out for a trial run. He just threw up his hands, and grinned.

Rancho Grande

Rusty - 10-11-2005 at 01:11 PM

We were one of two occupants at the Rancho Grande palapas last February. The area was well maintained. The palapas were in very good condition, secluded, clean, and convenient to the outhouses.

Since we were on the tail end of yet another Pacific storm, the winds were very strong and blowing sand into our faces and our food. We used a truck and tarp as a wind block, but it wasn?t enough. Maybe Beluga's palapas would offer a little more protection?not sure. We didn?t stop there, but when passing by on the beach they also looked clean, and are very secluded

Picture (if I can figure this out...)
-view to south from Rancho Grande palapas. There are some pebbles at low tide.

Another try with the picture...

Rusty - 10-11-2005 at 01:19 PM

View to the south from Rancho Grande:

View to the north from Rancho Grande:

Rusty - 10-11-2005 at 01:22 PM

David K - 10-11-2005 at 04:48 PM

Great photos... Thanks Rusty!