







| Quote: |

) When the wave hit me I flipped end
over right side up. My face struck the board with such force I thought I was lossing consiousness. Ten feet of white water and I held on. I thought
it I let go my leash would break and I'd drown. When I finally got to the beach, I had a broken nose and hole in my lip where my lower teeth came
thru. Does that qualify as a rouge wave? Now I know why they dive under the big waves and have a lonnngg leash. 



