Mike Humfreville - 7-27-2006 at 10:14 PM
Punta Eugenia
We left Mexico Highway 1 behind at the Viscaino junction and headed more or less west toward one of the more remote parts of Baja California. The
road was paved for the first ten miles or so; we weren?t in the business of checking odometers. We passed through many acres of citrus trees and then
groves of figs. Somewhere near where the cultivated agriculture ceased so did the pavement. The dirt at first was heavily washboard and our two 4WD
SUV?s handled it well but what was the rush? We had no firm schedule except to be back in Bahia de Los Angeles by the end of the week, several days
away.
I had been to the Viscaino peninsula before, but the road from the village of the same name was new to me. In the late ?60?s I had made a trip to
Bahia Tortugas, Punta Eugenia and Malarrimo, but the road was almost non-existent back in those years ? we had had to cross the elevated dykes of the
Guerrero Negro salt works and then hug the eastern and southern flats bordering Scammon?s Lagoon before heading west where there were only miles of
deep sand and we had followed the few tracks of other adventurers. We had had no compass and traveling at night we gazed through our two windshields
at the half-full moon. We theorized that, if we bisected the arc of the moon, chasing the long set sun, we would be heading west. It took us three
days back then to get to Bahia Tortugas. While today?s trip was a longer drive it took us only four hours.
The current road smoothed out after an hour's slow driving before the washboard eased somewhat and our speed increased. We were passing through a
significant part of the Viscaino desert, never known for its exciting flora and fauna, but the road passed for miles along salt pans and low but
jagged ranges of hills that were interesting themselves. The road remained wide enough for two opposing vehicles to pass easily. That was a good
thing as the vast majority of folks that drive that road do it so often that they cover our four hour trip in half that. A number of miles before
Tortugas the road was paved again. Smooth as glass after all the dirt driving.
We arrived in Tortugas mid-afternoon, surveyed the hotels in the town, selected one, and unloaded our gear. We discovered that there were two hotels
in town and the prices were quite low. The one we selected was $20/night and allowed dogs. It was good that they did as we had four of them with us.
What a zoo!
We toured the dusty town and learned our way around and asked about the route to Punta Eugenia. It was an easy going oft-graded track that wound up
the Viscaino?s arm, hanging out into the Pacific and would take us about an hour. We returned to eat dinner at the hotel. From their vantage point,
on a hill adjacent to the Pemex station, we could see the pier jutting out into the waters of the bay and a few sailing ships and fishing boats
nearby. The cooler air was refreshing after being in Bahia de Los Angeles for so long and then crossing to the west coast through the central desert.
During dinner the town?s generator gasped and quit and the town?s lights faded, went out. The owner of the restaurant immediately supplied a candle
for our table; we were the only people dining there. Looking out the windows we could see that the entire town was dark. But sooner rather than
later a personal generator fired up and then another and another and before long every family that wanted ?luz? had it. It was a testimony to the
rugged Baja dwellers that they were prepared for just about any eventually. Our traveling partners, including baby Brisa, and Mary Ann and I situated
ourselves on a small patio looking north-west. The town was filled with activity, headlights working down dusty irregular streets, children riding
bicycles, pedestrians wandering and talking in the late evening. The tranquility of the moment was touching and we sat listening to the activities.
Soon the town generator was restored and the entire set of rolling hills that comprise the village lit up.
As we prepared for bed we found that electricity to our rooms, which had been circuited off earlier in the day, was now working. The single light
socket in the middle of our ceiling had been provided with a bulb and turned on for our convenience. The towels we had requested earlier had now been
provided for morning utility. Dog Dito joined us on his rug between our two small beds. Our friends put two of their three dogs in the back of
their camper shell; the third slept in their room. It was a very comfortable night. In our room, adjacent to our friends, Mary Ann and I talked for
a bit and then lay down to read. Within a few minutes we were both fading and turned out the light. My head, resting on the difficult pillow, worked
over the sounds coming from the street below. It had been a wonderful day. I fell asleep listening to the bubbling laughter of children and women
walking the dusty path beneath our simple accommodations. All over town the dogs were barking but they only added to the simple serenade running
through my mind.
During dinner we discussed making the trek to Punta Eugenia. It had been almost forty years since I had been there.
bbbait - 7-29-2006 at 11:25 AM
We're hanging tough Mike... How's part 2 going?
Mike Humfreville - 7-29-2006 at 04:31 PM
bbbait,
I'm working on it this afternoon and possibly have it posted later today; if not, tomorrow. Thanks for reading.
bajalou - 7-29-2006 at 05:10 PM
Sounds like the road's considerable better than when I went about 4 years ago. And we're waiting for "The Rest of the Story"
Bajaboy - 7-29-2006 at 07:35 PM
Mike-
We were just out there as well with El Gato Loco and Baja Barb. The road from Tortugas is like a highway.
Zac
Mike Humfreville - 7-29-2006 at 07:52 PM
Zac-
I wonder if we crossed paths. This Viscaino road saved a day and a half and we never would have taken the chance with Baby Brisa.
God to hear from you. Next time you're in BOLA drop by!!!
Mexitron - 7-29-2006 at 08:56 PM
You capture the mood well Mike!
If anyone's interested I believe that's Isla Natividad on the left and Isla Cedros on the right in Bajaboy's photo at P. Eugenia. Interesting island
that Cedros with its relict stand of Monterey pines that far south.