BajaNomad

To Punta Cabras and back, safe and sound

Bajagato - 9-6-2006 at 10:03 AM

Well I have to admit with the recent stories of violence in Baja I was a little apprehensive in taking my Labor Day trip to Punta Cabras, but I am so glad that I did not let it stop me. I want to report that I felt safe in our travels and recommend that baja travelers continue to do so, as usual.
We left Laguna hills Sat. a.m..early and arrived the border by 6:30ish. The traffic south on the toll road was made up of mostly Californians and the drive was uneventful, except a back up at the toll station at Rosarito. Through the outskirts of Ensenada we continued south. We had a wonderful breakfast at Santo Tomas and were full of a machaca and chilechiles, and of course a morning Tecate!
We took the turn off at KM78/79 toward Coyote Cals. This is a road we had never traveled before, a new adventure that we were happy to be on. As we arrived at the coast we saw a sign for Malibu Sur campground so we decided to take the few miles to ? side trip it ? to check it out since this trip was all about exploring and finding the perfect spot. Through a poorer part of town and around some newly cultivated fields, we found the campground. Nothing to write home about it, I think more locals camp there than tourists, but that said, the people that were there seemed to be having a good time. This campground is on the cliffs and we were looking for something for sandy. They also wanted $10 a person.
Back to the north side of the arroyo, we proceeded through Erendira. Stopping at a local market for tortillas and ice, we were then off to explore the coast to the north. We stopped at Castro?s camp to check out the digs. I think they said $45 for a cabin and $175 for a panga fishing trip. Good to know for future trips. We saw Coyote Cal?s but did not stop. As we traveled further north there were plenty of spots that campers had staked out for their own. We pushed on; the only camping so far was on the cliffs and its ubiquitous red clay. We finally reached a spot where there were campers above the beach, with beach access and as we approached we saw a sign that said ? Punta Cabras?. This was the place we were looking for. On the south side of the point there were no campers directly on the beach, I assume because of tide. We let air out of the tires of the vehicles and proceeded through the dunes to spy a beautiful long beach and at the far end it looked as though there were campers on the beach and that?s where we headed, thru the dunes and straight on to the sand. At the farthest point was a great bay with plenty of room to set up camp right on the sand! It was all that we wished it would be!
We immediately just set up on the beach for the day; it was too hot to set up tents. We fished all day long and all of us caught a slew of surfperch. Every cast, a fish, it was great fun. The next two days were filled with lots of the same. Hot days, warm nights, good friends, great fishing, cold cervazas and memories made to last forever.
On the way home we found a Geocache that was close to Coyote Cals. Stopped in Erendira for tacos and quesadillas, then unfortunately, we had to start are trek home.
At the military checkpoint north of Santo Tomas we were unfortunately behind a sedan of some sort with one occupant. And those military personnel were dead set on finding something in his car. After about a half and hour of searching they finally pulled him over to the side to put his car up on a rack to look underneath. We were pleased when they finally did that, not sure what the result of their inspection yielded.
We decided to drive the 3 to Tecate to hopefully have a better crossing than at Tijuana. We got in the border line at 6:15, along with every other traveler in Baja and FINALLY reached the border at 9:00pm. That was a record for me and I will think twice about the Tecate crossing on a Holiday weekend again!
I am happy to report, our adventure was without incident and can not wait to go back to Baja!!!

Here's proof we were having fun!

Bajagato - 9-6-2006 at 10:04 AM

A shot of the beach from the cliffs above

Bajagato - 9-6-2006 at 10:04 AM

good report

John M - 9-6-2006 at 10:11 AM

So many places to explore - You've got us looking at the map again!

Cool looking beach. Thanks for posting.

John M

Taco de Baja - 9-6-2006 at 10:22 AM

Hey neighbor!
Sounds like a fun trip, except for the shortness of it and the long border wait.

Bajagato,

Paulina - 9-6-2006 at 10:42 AM

Great report, thanks! We were just down there about 3 weeks ago. We made a quick road trip to Malibu RV park from Ensenada to camp out with a group of friends. We only spent one night there, but it seemed like a clean spot, the trash was emptied often, bathroom seemed clean as well as the beach.

The only down side to that park is passing through the area where the farm workers reside. The children shouted out in English, "Money, money, money!" as we passed by. Not just at one house, but almost every house or child that we passed. Then again in the town of Erendira we passed a school bus full of children, all crowded over to the side of the bus facing the road. They had their arms out the window shouting the same phrase.

We drove on to Cabras, to the bluff that you spoke about. We have camped there many times before and a couple of times for the Baja 500. This time we stopped just to take a break, cook Birria out of a can from the propane stove in the back of our truck.

It would be nice to camp out on the beach like you did. That red dirt on the bluff gets really old after a while. When you get home you think you have a good tan going until you take a shower. Unfortunatly our truck might be a bit too heavy to attempt beach camping.

I agree, the fishing is great. We had fun digging up sand crabs and catching Perch on almost every cast as well. I have to figure out how to cook them though, as I tried it "Survivor" style and they kept falling off the stick into the fire.

We took the North road out, past Calaveras, up over the hills and dropped down into Santo Tomas. Parts of that road was pretty beat up and a slow go, but still worth the drive some day. Just before you drop down into Santo Tomas there is a great view of the entire valley. Very pretty. If I can get the photo down to the right posting size without loosing quality I'll post it.

Thanks again for the post, it brought back good memories of a fun place.

Paulina<*)))><

jgross - 9-6-2006 at 11:41 AM

"I agree, the fishing is great. We had fun digging up sand crabs and catching Perch on almost every cast as well. "

What size hooks and weights did you use? I am heading down this weekend and want to try it out.

Thanks

jgross

Bajagato - 9-6-2006 at 11:52 AM

ok well I am not the fishing expert, but i believe we used a Carolina rig set up, with one ounce egg weights and number 4 mosquito hooks. My hubby may chime in and correct me if I am wrong...have fun!!!!

Paulina - 9-6-2006 at 02:22 PM

We used a sliding egg sinker, maybe 1 - 1 1/2 oz. depending on what we had in the tackle box and the wind issues for casting out. Beyond that we had a bead, a small barrel swivel and a 12 - 16" leader with light test. The hook was big enough to go through a sand crab, but small enough to allow the Perch to swallow it. One note is, the bigger the sand crab you use, the more often you'll get robbed at the hook. If they have roe underneath them that is even more of a bonus.
Have fun!

P>*)))><

Bajagato - 9-6-2006 at 04:28 PM

the sand crabs there are HUGE!
We just used Gulp Cammo worms, they LOVE those!

Bajamatic - 9-6-2006 at 05:50 PM

ites.

[Edited on 9-7-2006 by Bajamatic]

dean miller - 9-6-2006 at 06:42 PM

What a difference 50 years makes....

In the early1950s the tanker "Tampico" went aground at Punta Cabras. For a number of years it exact location was unknown by the divers in SoCal. Then the road was extended and Vincente Castro opend Castro's Fish Camp. The word driffed back to SoCal diving community that there was a huge ship agroud at San Vincente, as that area was knwn in those days.

Divers began visiting the area- not for the grounded Tampico, for very little remained other than the rusting hull after the salvage crews and the locals picked it clean. The attraction was for for the great spearfishing the entire area offered; Halibut, Bass, Yellow Tail & White Sea Bass.

By about 1965 or so the Tampico had slowly disintegrated into small bits and peices and had slowly without fanfare disappeared under the water. The once proud Tampico was no more, only memories remain.

I have heard that there is a "Tampico Cove" development near Punta Cabras, according to my sources the residents of that community, all recent transplants are unaware of it's recent (if 50 years is recent) interesting history or the origin of the cove's name.--sad!

dm

1957

David K - 9-6-2006 at 06:57 PM

Here is your 'Tampico', 49 years ago... from the Howard Gulick collection (link also on my home page)... http://orpheus.ucsd.edu/speccoll/baja/gulick/




[Edited on 9-7-2006 by David K]

chino - 9-6-2006 at 09:01 PM

Nice report Bajagato, I feel terible about the recent acts of violence as well as the grief in Mulege, mercy.
Glad to see you folks get out and enjoy the Baja. I have had some bad things happen to me in Baja and the feeling of helplessness from not having anyone to rescue me has rattled me to the core, however I have been involved in as many bad things here in the states and have found myself just as helpless, many terible things happen throughout the US under the noses' and behind the backs of our "authorities"
The only sense I can make of these times is to follow my heart wherever it leads and pray for traveling mercy on me and mine.
thanks for a nice post, Chino
PS Thanks David for the stickers, I need one now for my work truck to remind me why I work, Thanks

dean miller - 9-8-2006 at 05:52 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by David K
Here is your 'Tampico', 49 years ago... from the Howard Gulick collection... David K]
_______________________________________________
TAMPICO!

Very good! That was it! I was unaware that pictures still exisited of the Tampico. When it went aground the area was very very desolate difficult to reach by normal vechicle.--I used a 1942 4X4 Dodge.

The Tampico was a favorite destination for our early spearfishing activites. The area around the Tampico was populated with rather tame game fish, the calico bass, Yellow tail, and the fantastic white sea bass. (One of my favorite spearfishing memories involved a WSB and the late Joe Lamonica the inventor of the JBL spear gun-but it will need to wait for another time)

We dove the area which we called White tanks and/or Tampax cove for several years and some what had the area to ourselves. I can't recall when Vincente Castro established Castro's Fish camp, but as soon as it became popular and the "newbies," as new members are referred to on this forum, began appearing we moved on to even more isolated productive spearfishing areas of Baja

The picture and the collection is of interest. Howard Gulick not only did the wonderful guide books with his partner Gerhard and later Wheelock, he also produced a very informative slide show which he presented in and around SoCal. It has been about 45 years or more since I attended his presentation then rual sparsley populated Orange county (OC)--It must have been in 1962--I just checked my well worn guide book and that was the publication date which I purchased at the seminar from him, (Nope! no inscription!)--so it was 44 years ago. Since I had been traveling to and diving the Tampico for probably 5 years previous I evidently didn't give the boat much notice in his presentation.

Approximately 2-3 years ago I met several full time residences of that area while traveling in central Baja. Apparently there is now a cove or a development in and around the area where the Tampico went aground, appropriately named "Tampico Cove." It was a surprise to me to learn that the current batch of newcomers to the area were unaware of the history of the the coves's name sake and the maritime event that unfolded there over 50 years previous.

They were aware of the American "Clarencio," who, no matter when we arrived fifty years previous, some how appeared on an horse to collect "rent." A practice he continued until he road off in to the Baja sunset. Although he was not personally known by the current residences his fame lives on as one of the legends of that area. Good old Clarencio, RIP...

Now you know the rest of the story..

DM

David K - 9-8-2006 at 09:16 AM

Great story Dean!

Howard Gulick and his Lower California Guidebook ('The Baja Bible' to many) was the tool to adventure! As a kid sitting between my folks in our Wagoneer, I would read the guide and my dad would note the odometer so we would take the correct fork in the road or have knowledge of the next town or rancho ahead. The co-author was Peter Gerhard, who supplied the historical data for the book.

Howard was also the map maker for the guide and his maps are still usefull today...

One of Howard's travel companions and a fellow engineer from Glendale (Andy Anderson) was a patient of my dad's (a dentist) and the reason my dad bought the Jeep and began going to Baja (he loved fishing)... I met Howard Gulick when I was about 10 and got his autograph... One of my Baja heroes!

I also knew Walt Wheelock who updated the guide and renamed it Baja California Guidebook...

Here's a sample page from the original Lower California Guidebook...

Lower Ca Guide-r.JPG - 47kB

dean miller - 9-8-2006 at 04:44 PM

It is noted that the last name on the sample page is that of Dick Daggett, who was popularized by the many books of Earl Stanley Gardner.

Dick is the father of Raymond (? can't recall his name) Daggett who owns the popular campgrounds on the beach in BOLA.

There is no arguement the guide book was indeed a much needed publication. But it should also be noted that is was a good as the last rain. It was my (our) experience that using the book as an absolute infalable guide would often lead to an impassable wash out or road obstruction. It would be necessary to back up and re-route to locate an alternate route to the ultimate destination.

After considerable disappointment and much back tracking following the guide was discovered the guide was just that --a guide. Often the best route was generally the route most traveled--the one with the bigger ruts and the most dust.

And thats the way it was....
DM

David K - 9-8-2006 at 09:55 PM

True, the old main Baja road would have forks not mentioned in the guidebook... Take the most traveled set of tracks and you would find they come back together just ahead, beyond sight after bypassing a washout or a disabled truck!

Dick Daggett's son is Reuben, by the way...

There is a photo of Dick Daggett in the Gulick photos, by the way...

[Edited on 9-9-2006 by David K]

Andy Anderson?

Paulina - 9-10-2006 at 11:42 AM

David,
You mentioned the name Andy Anderson from Glendale in your post. My grandfather had a very good friend, same name, same location, who was his sidekick fishing buddy.

They used to fly down to Baja in the 40s - 60s to fish the East Cape. I have vintage photos of them both hanging in our house.

I wonder if our Andy Anderson could be one in the same, afterall, how many men with the same name, profession, location and a love for baja could there be?

As soon as I can figure out how to get my laptop to recognize our scanner I'll post a few of the photos.

Those guys sure were lucky weren't they? To be able to explore baja back in 'the day', what a life!

P<*)))><

ps. Sorry to have morphed the thread!

[Edited on 10-9-2006 by Paulina]

David K - 9-10-2006 at 11:44 AM

Andy lived in Rancho Santa Fe in the mid 60's and 70's... Maybe?

Paulina - 9-10-2006 at 11:48 AM

Hi David,

Boy that was a quick reply! My grandfather died in 64, so Andy lost his fishing buddy then. I'll ask my mom about Andy's whereabouts after that. Baja is such as small world at times that it wouldn't surprise me if the two men weren't one in the same.

P.

ps. If you have any photos of Andy that you could e-mail me then I'll know asap. It may take me all day to figure out the scanner!:?:

[Edited on 10-9-2006 by Paulina]

bajagato

BAJACAT - 9-12-2006 at 07:01 PM

Hey are we related!:lol: you know BAJACAT AND BAJAGATO,:lol::lol:just kindding man., nice report but can see your pictures don't know why???:?:

David K - 9-12-2006 at 07:13 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Paulina
Hi David,

Boy that was a quick reply! My grandfather died in 64, so Andy lost his fishing buddy then. I'll ask my mom about Andy's whereabouts after that. Baja is such as small world at times that it wouldn't surprise me if the two men weren't one in the same.

P.

ps. If you have any photos of Andy that you could e-mail me then I'll know asap. It may take me all day to figure out the scanner!:?:

[Edited on 10-9-2006 by Paulina]



Paulina... Andy Anderson was the person responsible for my dad buying a Jeep Wagoneer and taking us to Gonzaga Bay in 1965! The rest is history...

Andy was a friend and co-worker of Howard Gulick... He even traveled with Howard on some mapping trips into Baja...

I met Howard at Andy's house when I was about 10 (1967 ish) and he autographed a copy of the Lower California Guidebook for me.

In 1976, (at 18) I went back to Andy's house to visit and show him my new Jeep... He showed me one of Gulick's full size maps of Baja... They were incredible... The maps in the guidebook were abbreviations of the original maps... and they are awesome!

In 1984, I met Walt Wheelock who updated Howard's book in '75 to include the new highway and other changes... Anyway, Walt told me he had the original large scale maps and was pondering what to do with them... They had great value, but to a limited audiance.

I am unsure if those maps are stored with Howard's other collections at UCSD, but I sure would like to see them again!