BajaNomad

The Curse

oladulce - 10-8-2006 at 11:40 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by grover
In keeping with the grand spirit of Aloha of the Sport of Kings, I have given it up in order to leave more waves for the rest of you.

Nor will I encourage my son to learn.

Like an earnest bumper-sticker I saw the other day read: "Surfing Sucks; Don't Start!"


How true. It is a curse.

You have a stronger character than I Grover, and are setting a good example for your son. Save the children!

My husband and I shake our heads anymore and wonder why we chose to follow the path of this lifestyle. It controls the thoughts and alters one's judgement.

It makes you spend your time and money traveling the world searching for things that may not appear, and that you have no control of (nature).

It causes frustration when you wait and wait and waves finally arrive- along with the wind. And aggravation when you wait patiently or search feverishly, then the crowd shows up.

So why do we continue to subject ourselves to this?
Because we are weak, and tomorrow could bring the very best waves of our lives...

Tomas Tierra - 10-8-2006 at 01:03 PM

" so why do we continue to subject ourselves to this?"

there are a zillion reasons..

Because you can't teach an old dog new tricks..

and......

"It's the ultimate spontaneous interaction with a natural medium" (-Dale Webster)

any other good reasons out there anybody??

Diver - 10-8-2006 at 01:15 PM

Definitely a mental disorder.
It's very similar to the disorder that affects snow skiers, snowboarders and windsurfers.
Maybe try a blow-up wave pool in your back yard ?? :lol:
.

Tomas Tierra - 10-8-2006 at 01:16 PM

Is there a cure for the curse/disorder??

Diver - 10-8-2006 at 01:23 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Tomas Tierra
Is there a cure for the curse/disorder??


They are still working on the cure - let's hope they never find one !

However, in the meantime, frequent and extended periods in the waves or powder snow will alleviated the majority of the symptoms. :lol:
.

Curse/disorder or blessing and stoke?

Lee - 10-8-2006 at 01:59 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Diver
Quote:
Originally posted by Tomas Tierra
Is there a cure for the curse/disorder??


They are still working on the cure - let's hope they never find one !

However, in the meantime, frequent and extended periods in the waves or powder snow will alleviated the majority of the symptoms. :lol:
.


I thought the cure was being in the water? Waves, no waves, crowds, whatever. Isn't it having salt water in your blood? There isn't a time I haven't left the water where I wasn't cured.

Great Walensa said: the wire is life. Everything else is waiting.

OK so he fell. I'm a fish out of water. Time out of the water is time waiting to be back in the water.

Give waves, get waves. It's all about Aloha.

Background: grew up surfing pre-wetsuits: San Francisco (Kelly's, Ocean and Sloat Blvds., Ano Nuevo, Pleasures, Steamers.

Current homebreak: San'O (Church's, The Point, Old Mans).

:cool:

[Edited on 10-8-2006 by Lee]

El Jefe - 10-9-2006 at 07:45 PM

Surfing is not just the act of riding waves. It's the whole process that gets you there. It's the anticipation, the waiting, the sitting in the water, the paddling out, the BSing with your pals. It's coming around the last corner after a long, bumpy ride and seeing it going off! Or seeing it flat. It's sitting around a fire talking story. Its waxing up a new board for the first time and introducing it to the water and talking to it. "Here ya go baby, this is your destiny. Feels good, no?" It's being in church with your legs in the water and the sun coming up on your face. It is smelling the ocean's scent on a cool morning. It's right out my back door. I can hear it right now. Its b-tchin.
I'm the luckiest man in the world.

baja sur - 10-9-2006 at 08:38 PM

sí

This is it dead center

Lee - 10-9-2006 at 09:56 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by El Jefe
Surfing is not just the act of riding waves. It's the whole process that gets you there. It's the anticipation, the waiting, the sitting in the water, the paddling out, the BSing with your pals. It's coming around the last corner after a long, bumpy ride and seeing it going off! Or seeing it flat. It's sitting around a fire talking story. Its waxing up a new board for the first time and introducing it to the water and talking to it. "Here ya go baby, this is your destiny. Feels good, no?" It's being in church with your legs in the water and the sun coming up on your face. It is smelling the ocean's scent on a cool morning. It's right out my back door. I can hear it right now. Its b-tchin.
I'm the luckiest man in the world.


You couldn't have expressed it more clearly. It is literally the anticipation and, sometimes, just checking things out -- watching, sometimes -- and seeing what develops over a few minutes or hours. And then, like a light bulb turning on, the decision to go. Then there is the walk. Watching the water, feeling the sand as I walk. Thinking about what is coming, then, entering the water, the first strokes, cutting through glass like butter. Sometimes, just sitting and watching other surfers and being in awe that that are so good. And, at the same time, remembering that this connection goes deep and has lasted so long.

I could go on, like you Jefe, and it's all poetry. I'm a fish out of water and the best water, to me, is in BCS. Along with the people that make this place, still, so special. Salute!

:cool:

[Edited on 10-10-2006 by Lee]

BajaGeoff - 10-12-2006 at 01:16 PM

You nailed it El Jefe! Well said. Makes me want to drop everything and head for the beach!

DanO - 10-12-2006 at 01:53 PM

Me too. @#$@&*%#'n job!

SiReNiTa - 10-12-2006 at 07:40 PM

me three!!!! i'll second that any day and i'm still elarning and every day i wish i could go home grab my board get in the car and drive to the beach even if i get creamed by the waevs every single try...lmao it's about who you are...it's not a trend it's a life style