BajaNomad

two questions, never traveled baja

iclarke - 12-5-2006 at 12:18 PM

Hi,
I was wondering if anyone could answer some of my questions as I hav bever traveld in Baja, or even Mexico for that reason. I plan on backpacking, camping out in a tent most of the time. I plan on hitting up some hotels every now and then looking for a private room. I have heard 300 or so US dollars is plenty for traveling Baja for two weeks. Is this true? Also, I am unsure what the safest way to carry ash is... Should I carry cash or rock out with a debit card?
Lastly, I am flying into San Diego, menaing I will need to drive over the border. What forms of ID will Ineed to enter/leave Mexico?
best regards,
-Ian

Cypress - 12-5-2006 at 12:27 PM

iclarke! I'm thinking that $300 or so US$ isn't gonna be enough cash.:D Don't lose the card.:D You gonna hitchhike? Do you plan on eating?:(

iclarke - 12-5-2006 at 12:33 PM

Cypress
I am also traveling with my girlfriend who is bringing around the same amount. We are mostly taking buses, and maybe hitchhiking. How much does a decent dinner and bus fares cost?
how much cash should I save then for two weeks assuming I already bought air fare?

Diver - 12-5-2006 at 12:35 PM

Where do you plan to stay and how far into Baja are you going ?

Bruce R Leech - 12-5-2006 at 12:38 PM

you need to do a lot more research be for coming down here, and I realize that is what you are trying to do here. your questions are very hard to answer because we don't know how sparsely you want to travel. there are so many questions that I would need answered before I could give you any advice. If you could give us some more facts we could help you more.

Dave - 12-5-2006 at 12:41 PM

If you hitchhike it don't matter how much money you bring. You'll never get the chance to spend it.

Baja has changed. Solo travelers/campers are easy prey. Rethink your plans.

Cypress - 12-5-2006 at 12:46 PM

iclarke, I'd advise you listen to Bruce.:)

iclarke - 12-5-2006 at 12:47 PM

good point.
I am trying to find the cheapest way to travel down to Del Cabo and back to San DIego with occasional splurges on a hotel room, boat rides out to islands, and eating well most every night out of food markets. I am bringing full backpacking gear... i.e. camping stove, sleeping bag, tent, clothing, head lamp, a camera, snorkeling gear, duct tape, two knives handy for various purposes. I plan on carrying food in my hiking pack most every day. My gf was aksing if we could ride some train that goes around the some canyon, I might give in.
I hope this information helps, if not please feel free to ask away.
cheers

iclarke - 12-5-2006 at 12:48 PM

in response to Dave... what is a safe alternative to hitchhiking? Is the bus system reliable?

ArvadaGeorge - 12-5-2006 at 12:52 PM

My wife and I have been beach camping near San Felipe for several years with a teenager-- For about 2 weeks. We Credit card our gas down and back.
We bring $1000.00 cash we do pay for camping and shrimp, beer, tequila—
And eat out a few times. We also buy a lot of motorcycle gas: but we bring most of our food. We don’t bring back a lot of$$$
It’s an inexpensive family vacation and I get to ride my motorcycle a lot.
Life is good

Bruce R Leech - 12-5-2006 at 12:53 PM

Cabo is the last place you want to go on 150 per week. I would not cross the border with only 300 dollars. I really don't think you could ride the buss to Ensenada and stay 3 days on 300us

iclarke - 12-5-2006 at 01:02 PM

what kind of trip is doable on 1200us$ for two weeks?

Don Alley - 12-5-2006 at 01:02 PM

Bus fare- it's about $100 from Tijuana to Loreto, one way, just to give you an idea. So round trip bus fare will more than eat up $300 if you want to go to Cabo.

The railroad and canyon-Copper Canyon-are onthe Mexican mainland, not Baja.

Dave - 12-5-2006 at 01:05 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by iclarke
in response to Dave... what is a safe alternative to hitchhiking? Is the bus system reliable?


Bus travel is reliable and recommended, but that only solves one problem. I would stay in hotels. Camping alone in a remote isolated area has become a very dangerous proposition. Sad, but that's the reality.

Others here may disagree but if it were their child I'd suspect they would offer the same advice.

iclarke - 12-5-2006 at 01:13 PM

thanks for the info Dave. How much do hotels cost per night for a clean room, not neccesarily private bathrooms?

Bruce R Leech - 12-5-2006 at 01:14 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by iclarke
what kind of trip is doable on 1200us$ for two weeks?


now you are talking. If I were you I would take a bus to Guerrero Negro and get a ride to ASCENSION camp a day or 2 then get rides down the Pacific side a ways and camp and ride your way to Mulege on the back rodes. the spend a day or 2 on the beach south of Mulege. then get a ride south or bus and try aqua Verdi and so forth. I will let some one else gyed you thrugh the south land.

Dave - 12-5-2006 at 01:21 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by iclarke
thanks for the info Dave. How much do hotels cost per night for a clean room, not neccesarily private bathrooms?


If you search carefully and perhaps bargain a bit you can find rooms in the $20/5 dollar range. I've found rooms/camping for 30-50% off, even in season.

iclarke - 12-5-2006 at 01:25 PM

how much would I spend on food if I went out to a restaurant as opposed to cooking food from food markets each night?

DanO - 12-5-2006 at 02:17 PM

That depends on what you mean by "restaurant." You can eat super cheap (and well) at roadside stands (for example, tacos of various varieties are usually less than a buck each). Restaurants with interior seating and table service will obviously be more.

Food is not cheap in Mexico

Sharksbaja - 12-5-2006 at 02:34 PM

you will pay more for same items in U.S. Like I tell my friends "there ain't no deal in Mexico!" There used to be.

If you are clever about food. i.e. ; catch fish, eat lard tortillas,rice etc. and you purify and drink only water, stay at busy gringo campsites and bum rides from other travelers. It may be possible to do a week on $300.

I think most Americanos are waaaaaay too spoiled for that.

Even our friend Graham Macintosh had a plane deliver goods and he is one of the hard-core adventurers in Baja. Maybe you should check out his way. But even in remote places one needs stuff..........daily.

Planning is the key. Bring mo money!:lol:

Dano

Sharksbaja - 12-5-2006 at 02:37 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by DanO
That depends on what you mean by "restaurant." You can eat super cheap (and well) at roadside stands (for example, tacos of various varieties are usually less than a buck each). Restaurants with interior seating and table service will obviously be more.



I don't know about you but I eat 5-6 tacos easy. They are not very big in most places. See, same amount of denero as a fast food stop in L.A. Fastfood is more filling:lol:

DENNIS - 12-5-2006 at 02:50 PM

I dont remember an RV park that wouldn't accomodate campers. Keep your environment under control. Get your FMT and plan on both cash and your debit card. Dont put your girlfriend in harms way.

DanO - 12-5-2006 at 03:01 PM

I can get by on 3 tacos if I have 4 (free) radishes per taco. :P

There are places in L.A. to get tacos for comparable prices (I'm thinking in particular of a little taco stand outside a carniceria down on Venice Boulevard in Mar Vista). They're just not as good as a hot, fresh carne asada taco con todos (or a taco al pastor, or a quezotaco) at Tacos Los Poblanos (Sur) in Maneadero. Watch out for the roasted jalapenos at that place -- smokin hot!

bajalou - 12-5-2006 at 03:10 PM

In Mexicali, you get a tray with at least 8 condiments, guacamole, salsa, chopped onions, cilantro, etc, including sliced cucumbers, radishes. Also fried green onions and roasted jalapeños and a bowl of beans - all comes with the order of 1 or more tacos at 11 peso each. Carne asada, al pastor, pollo.

And now I'm ready to head to Mexicali-- These places are open 24/7 so any time's the right time.

[Edited on 12-5-2006 by bajalou]

comitan - 12-5-2006 at 03:54 PM

#1 take a bus.
#2 wear warm cloths on bus they are cold.
#3 don't stop anywhere on the Pacific side to cold for camping.
#4 do stop at San Ignacio
#5 do stop Santa Rosalia
#6 do stop Mulege
#7 do stop Santispac beach(camp)
#8 do stop Loreto
#9 bus to La Paz explore till time to return
#10 stop at the places you didn't get enough of.
#11 bring $1200.
#12 you will be remembering this trip for years.
#13 you can figure $5.00 av. for restaurants. per person.
#14 hitchhiking and side trips will take up too much of your time.

[Edited on 12-5-2006 by comitan]

[Edited on 12-5-2006 by comitan]

[Edited on 12-5-2006 by comitan]

Hook - 12-5-2006 at 04:18 PM

Does anyone know if the bus lines have an open-ended pass that allows you to embark and disembark wherever they want? That would be perfect for these adventurers.

With your limited means and the increased bad guys in Baja, you NEED an itinerary. You need predictability in where to stay.

And we're just the group to do it for you, if you want!

It's been my experience that you will still encounter gringos/locals that will offer accommodations/amenities unexpectedly that will give you the sense of spontaneity you seem to desire.

BTW, what time of year are we talking here and what are your bags rated to?

If it were me, I'd bus to El Rosario, thumb out and back to La Bocana for the night and next day, bus to Catavina and walk over to Rancho Santa Ines and stay a day or so (good hiking in the wash near there, ask at the restaurant), bus to San Ignacio and inquire at Ignacio Springs where you might pitch your tent and grab a shower. Then bus to Mulege/Concepcion and maybe stay at the Hotel Mulege or camp at Playa Escondida in one of their palapas.

Personally, I'm not sure I'd go much farther unless you have business in San Jose. As backpackers, I'd bypass Loreto, C. Constitution. Maybe bus to La Paz and hang out at Tecolote or see about getting a ride out to La Ventana.

I dont think any farther south will be your cup of tea.

Take the card. Carry as little cash as possible. Keep a small amount on YOUR person (and claim it's all you have in this world) and let your girl carry the bulk in her lacey underthings. Personally, I'd get a nice hardwood or aluminum walking stick instead of that second knife. Strive to look somewhat disheveled..........personal pizza insurance. :lol: Leave the bright colors and designer stuff at home.

Never leave all your stuff in your tent while you are away in town or wherever, unless you have made friends with the people in camp near you and you trust them. NEVER LET YOUR MONEY LEAVE YOUR PERSON.

Oh, and leave the buds at home too, mon, if you was thinking about it. Beware of unbranded tequila; order Sauza products and you will remain somewhat lucid.

The stands are your best friend for eating. Inquire about combination plates that you can split instead of necessarily ordering a la carte. Many places also have huge burros that can be a meal for two.

Even the cleanest stands may give you a touch of the turistas if you are not used to eating spicey, fatty food. Bring some lomotil. I am also a proponent of a bismuth tab a day as a preventative. Ferget the purifier pump; theres plenty of good bottled water available everywhere now.

In terms of hitchhiking, trust families or guy/girl combos and gringos with good hygiene........especially if they are driving big fancy RVs. :lol:

Comida corrida! (Mexican soul food)

Dave - 12-5-2006 at 05:03 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by iclarke
how much would I spend on food if I went out to a restaurant as opposed to cooking food from food markets each night?


If I were on a budget "comida corrida" is what I'd search for. It may be around the corner off the main drag or in a private home but the food is usually very good, very filling and very reasonable (25-35 pesos). I challenge anyone to buy and cook the same food for less.

It's just like eating at moms except you have to pay.

vacaenbaja - 12-5-2006 at 05:34 PM

I had a "tia", God rest her soul who had a ranch in the San Antonio de la Sierra region of BCS.,just south of San Antonio.
She told us a story of how once a couple described as "los hippies" wandered into her
ranch in search of food and lodging. Well her husband informed them that they were a "working ranch" and that if they were willing to pitch in on the chores they would be
given three square meals and a place to stay.The couple accepted their offer and my tia and her husband were "entertained by the exploits of the gringos trying their
hands at ranch work. There was corn to be picked and shucked, cows to be milked and watered chease to be made
etc. The ranch hands gave advice and encouragement to the couple
as they tended to the tender and blistered hands that were
unacustomed to the work they were doing. Not for everyone,
but the couple stayed until they had their fill of ranch life and
then moved on thanking them for the experience.

Bajamatic - 12-5-2006 at 06:01 PM

How old are you? Have you ever done this kind of thing in any other country? Have you been to any other country? Do you backpack a lot in the states? Like, more then once a year? My .02$ (and probably my first crack at sounding like an old man) is that you are getting in over your head. But what the hell. I didn't have a clue the first time I went, though I DID have a car and more then $300 (but not much).

Diver - 12-5-2006 at 07:22 PM

First time I went to Mazatlan I had a train ticket from Nogales and $200 cash.
It was the BEST 6 day trip I ever took !
Of course that was 1974 :lol:


.

kellychapman - 12-5-2006 at 07:42 PM

There is no way on earth I would think one can just grab a couple hundred and take on all of Baja California Sur......that is if really enjoying yourself, safety, what to do in an emergency ...to know what your really doing will allow you to have a fabulous instead of disaterous (possibly) experience. You can always grab the bus, and we do have great bus service....which alone is around 200 down and up...stops every couple of hours and gives you access to all the small communities and is a great way to see all of Baja...I will tell you that one of the "gringo" laws if your smart is to NOT pick up strangers just in case you plan on putting out your thumb..... so making friends at gringo campsites would be where you might hitch a ride as previously mentioned..and beware of the vulnerbility you are in when you do not speak the language...just in case you do not......there is alot of dark space in between communities to be walking/hitching so be prepared for the environment if you are on the shoe train. It is not inexpensive to travel/sleep avavailabilty/eat....do any adventuring in Baja.....and if bargins are what you want make sure you buy close to the boarder as everything has to be delivered via trucks the more south you get....it is difficult enough for the venders to make money as it is let alone bargin for your business. I happen to live in Loreto and we do not allow "vendors" to harrass you on the beach and such, but that is not the case where there are a large amount of "vacationers" in the busier towns.
PLAN PLAN PLAN and make sure you bring mo' money because you will need it I assure you......unless of course you have a crystal ball that assures you will not need anything, or you will not have a problem of any kind. Just getting sick on something you should eat or drink could be a problem and cause a change of plans.....so in closing I hope you do your research and planning and know what your doing before you do it.....times are not the same anywhere in the world anymore so prevention is so much better then assumption. "Always be prepared" and be a good boy scout....I hope you get to see and ENJOY how really beautiful Baja and the people are here....and have a safe trip.:O

Bruce R Leech - 12-5-2006 at 07:44 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Diver
First time I went to Mazatlan I had a train ticket from Nogales and $200 cash.
It was the BEST 6 day trip I ever took !
Of course that was 1974 :lol:


.



that was a lot of money in Mexico back then.:light:

kellychapman - 12-5-2006 at 07:51 PM

I too have to laugh myself silly about the cost of a 6 day train trip 30 plus years ago.....gas was cheaper too if I remember correctly.....omg if only we could have the same prices if even for that trip to Nogales because it is a beautiful trip....if anyone has the patience I wonder what it would cost today?:?:

daddypastor - 12-6-2006 at 03:41 PM

Hey....a few ideas and my experience...

The buses are pretty good, reliable, and not too uncomfortable. I know it's $100 from Rosarito to Vizcaino.

We use Bank Of The West, and can deposit $ in a U.S. account, and then withdraw $ in Baja with an ATM card. You might look into that, as it would spare you from carrying loads of $ on your person, and you would still have some options for getting more $. I know there is a bank in Guerrero Negro, but nothing in Vizcaino. I would presume you'd find banks in the bigger towns.

We have stayed in motels in Vizcaino, Bahia Tortugas, Bahia Ascuncion, La Bocana, and Punta Abreojos. It ranges anywhere from $18-$25 night. They are basic, but clean, hot water, air conditioning, and clean linens.

There is also a cool place called Campo Rene, just south of Punta Abreojos, right on the coast. They have cheaper cabanas for rent, and they have a restaurant. They would probably let you camp there, and it's safe.

I would agree with those who suggest avoiding hitchhiking. Ouch.

You can eat pretty cheaply if you want, or some restaurants have almost American prices.

Only once have we gotten REALLY sick. One trip we picked up some parasites, and it was wickedly bad. You might get an antibiotic called CIPRO, and take it with you in case you pick up any "friends". If you do have serious "runs" with a fever, get to a clinic and get an injection. You can get dehydrated really quickly, and we have had to have some friends hospitalized.

Best of luck to you.

By the way, if you want to camp in Vizcaino for a day or two, contact me, and I can check on it. We have some land that is fenced and safe, and where some Americans live full time. I'd be glad to try to clear that for you. Check my profile for my email address. No promises, but I can check.

iclarke - 12-7-2006 at 11:58 AM

thanks for all the feed back. I have been looking up blogs and forums on Baja all night. My Gf and I started printing suggestions into a binder for reviewing later when we plan our trip. We are flying out west from Vermont on march 8th, and staying out west until the 25th. It seems crazy considering it is snowing outside my window right now, and I have the spanish speaking ability of a two year old.

DanO - 12-7-2006 at 12:07 PM

Not crazy at all. Your Spanish will improve, and there will be very little chance of frostbite.

Osprey - 12-7-2006 at 12:12 PM

Clark/Kelly
I picked up all kinds of people hitching in Baja until I hit El Cien one day. Two Swiss doctors on spendy bikes (a man and his wife, both surgeons) needed a ride to La Paz. When we pulled into the veggy checkpoint near La Paz, the officers checked my papers and said "what about your friends in the back of your truck?" I had forgotten all about them but it shook me up pretty good when he said "friends" -- since then only Mexicanos ride in the back of my truck. Maybe others have had like experiences so hikers now days have more trouble getting rides.

Whooaa !!!!

motoged - 12-7-2006 at 01:03 PM

IC,

"I see" that it appears you have a good idea and not much of a clue how to execute it:o

I don't want to sound too critical, but your idea sounds like what mine was my first trip 15 years ago....except I flew down and back to San Jose and had $100/day budget allowed, and had been "tutored" by experienced Baja kayaker/travellers...advice I first thought was whimpy conservative overkill....but is now the basis of my Baja adventures (camping, dirtbiking, fossil/petrified shark-teeth searching north of Santa Rosalia, and the perpetual quest for a good taco stand).


Camping "outback" is too risky these days for me, although I have done it over the years by motorcycle...I would only camp where there are at least several gringo units "parked" nearby, and that only reduces risk of theft/robbery/assaults....it does not remove the risks....sleazy gringos also perpetrate crime, so be careful ....

I encourage you to follow the advice offered so far and , while your trip might certainly provide "romantic desert-tropical experiences, "it ain't Kansas in the 60's anymore, Dorothy":o

Budget $5 per meal, not per day...and that would be barely manageable if you eat more that 2 tacos and a bottle of water at a time.

Carry at least 2 liters of water at any time if more than an hour's walk from good water...."1 gallon a day" is desert thinking, especially if walking with a pack.

Forget the snorkelling stuff as the weight and hassle may not be worth it as the water can be pretty cold for more than 15 minutes of immersion w/out suit/shorty....

Dusty, weary-looking backpackers are easy targets if anyone is looking for easy pickings...

DO NOT leave g'friend alone in taxis (mine was robbed by taxi driver in San Jose a few years ago...at knifepoint with his accomplice he picked up.... and she was dumped on the highway near the airport without any cash and half her luggage...she was allowed to keep credit card and plane ticket....she refuses to return)....:no:

Travel light, especially if you will be walking any distance....good walking shoes are essential...leave flip-flops/sandals for beach...have a good basic first aid kit....

Kick the firewood before you pick it up...scares the scorpions away....

Always be aware of your "Plan B"/exit strategy....

This forum is the best source for current and knowledgeable Baja info I have yet to find.... (Thanks everyone:saint: )

Keep on researching your trip and you will likely be able to plan and carry out a good adventure....

Most importantly....DON'T wear white socks in you sandals....it is a dead giveaway you are clueless:lol:

Iflyfish - 12-7-2006 at 01:43 PM

Might I suggest that you stay closer to the border. There are many Mexico's and to quote the subtitle of The Peoples Guide to Mexico "where you are is where you are". You might learn more, experience more by staying in one or two places rather than press yourself to see the "whole enchelada". I enjoy staying for a while in places where I go. That strategy allows for a more in depth experience of a place. Staying in a place or two allows you to learn where the inexpensive food is and allows you to meet people who can teach you things. Go to the beach. Eat sea food. Watch sunrises and sunsets, they cost nothing.

Iflyfish

DanO - 12-7-2006 at 03:26 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by motoged
Most importantly....DON'T wear white socks in you sandals....it is a dead giveaway you are clueless:lol:


LMAO!

Good one, ged.

Also, good point about kicking the firewood to scare off the scorps. Here are a few more simple "always" and "never" rules that I try to observe:

Always shake out your shoes before putting them on. But not in the house.

Never put your hand anywhere you can't see it. Ever.

Always check under the outhouse toilet seat before sitting down (one of the black widow's favorite haunts).

Never launch fireworks directly from your hand, unless you are Bajabus or made of asbestos.

Always wash raw vegetables before eating, with purified or bottled water.

Never pass on a blind curve. There will be a bus coming at you in the opposite direction going double the speed limit and taking his half out of the middle, because he owns the gosh darnn road and he knows it.

Always stop for stop signs, especially the ones in front of police stations.

Never urinate in public while carrying your wife's purse (not that I would know what happens if you do).

Always give the oncoming driver on a rural dirt road the guy wave -- two fingers lifted briefly from their position at the top of the steering wheel.

Never be in a hurry. You are going to be late. It's Mexico.

Always slow down and let your senses enjoy where you are and what you're doing. Smell the sage, listen to the wind, and taste the dust. It's all good.

tripledigitken - 12-7-2006 at 03:55 PM

I like to travel down memory lane as much as the next amigo/a.



But................in 20 years these will be the good old days.

Enjoy..the sunsets, the beer, the tacos and most everything else. It is just as good today as it ever was.


Counting the days until my next visit.

Capt. George - 12-7-2006 at 04:06 PM

Vemont? tooo cool (no pun intended)

go west young man!!

I went west to Baja and have never been the same since. Do it to it, however, wherevre and whenever...

Only problem, once in Baja, and you get bit, you may not ever want to go back to the Northeast......

Spent years on Cape Cod, my daughter lives there...never again!

Your young? go man, go!!!! Capt. george