BajaNomad

First Time Baja

umpqua - 12-10-2006 at 11:28 PM

I just found this spot and plan to read many of the posts which will most likely answer some questions but here goes;

I'm a 47 year old guy and plan to drive the length to the baja with a guy friend in January. The intial plan is to camp out every night with a possible motel stay here and there. Total time in the baja is expected to be 2 weeks. We will be traveling in an older Landcruiser wagon. I would like to find some remote camping areas along the beach.

Can anyone recommend good books that are somewhat current about traveling in the baja? I understand that a AAA road map would be good but is there also a map that shows some of the more "unimproved" roads? Do you have any favorite spots that I promise not to trash? Any tips on this or anything else would really be appreciated.

One last thing for now.....I've traveled in Mexico previously on the mainland and always felt pretty safe but have been reading about some recent trouble on the baja. Is it relatively safe to camp or should we expect trouble?

Thanks.

Diver - 12-10-2006 at 11:35 PM

One of the newer editions is "Camping Mexico's Baja" by Mike and Terri Church. Also get the AAA Baja Road map and at least one other guide book.
Here's one site with a good selection;

http://www.bajabooksandmaps.com/

.

BajaWarrior - 12-10-2006 at 11:48 PM

Decide how much time you want to spend in Cabo. Given that the trip down is approximately 24 hours driving time, split the remainder of your time up. Lots of places to see, remember that all of Baja is pretty chilly that time of year.

South of San Quintin, El Pabellon campground, good camping, nice beach, hot showers. Or keep going another hour to Baja Cactus hotel in El Rosario. Guerrero Negro and Laguna San Ignacio are for whale watching (need reservations). Mulege and Loreto are very nice and right on the highway. From there maybe a quick stop in La Paz (marina area) then straight to Cabo. Use highway one and highway 19 each direction traveling to and from Cabo

The AAA map has distances and driving time points from town to town, pretty accurate for time.

Have a great trip.

[Edited on 12-11-2006 by BajaWarrior]

fishbuck - 12-11-2006 at 12:13 AM

This type of post comes up alot. My view is two weeks is not enough for what you are planning. Round trip is six days total and maybe 7-8 days.
I do the same as far as hotel and camping but if you can afford 20-30 a night for mexican motel 6 save the camping for special spots. As hard as you will be driving a bed and bath will be welcome.
I generally go border-San Quintin-Loreto(if up early)or Guerro Neggro(if I sleep in)From Loreto to Cabo if up early.
I tried to do the two week thing but decided early on that all I would see of Baja was Mex 1 and that only through my truck windshield. Oh yeah and you'll see alot of Pemex stations.
Others will disagree but I
say slow it down and smell the Baja.
If southern baja is what your after fly down and rent a car or jeep.
If you set on driving you could easily spend two weeks in northern baja exploring around.
It's your call!:cool:

Phil S - 12-11-2006 at 09:07 AM

umpqua. Geeezzzzzz. That's in my back yard here in Douglas County Oregon. If your living here, U2U me, and Ill give you my phone number & we can give you a AAA map, and tell you of our twice a year drive down & back past six years, and once a year before then for ten years.
Phil S

umpqua - 12-11-2006 at 11:30 AM

Thanks for the input on this....early on I'm liking the site and I do appreciate the help.

Fishbuck: Thanks for your comments and I agree that a couple of weeks won't do this trip justice. PLUS, I'll be driving from Portland so that adds another couple of K to the trip. It's just that I'm not sure when my next chance at this trip will come. I've wanted to do it for 20 years and the time has just now come. Maybe I'll get down there and decide to stay another week. Who knows. Maybe I won't want to come back at all.

Baja Warrior: I read the site last night and had decided that my first day goal south would be to stop in El Rosario at the Baja Cactus. Hopefully I can stop there on a Monday night in Mid January and they will have a room? If not is there another place that anyone can recommend?

Diver: I'll go to the link on the books and also get the camping book that you recommend. Thanks for the suggestion.

The plan for the trip is to get to the Sea of Cortez near Meluge or LaPaz as quickly as possible and then slow the trip. We're interested in camping on fairly isolated beaches, drinking beer, cooking shrimp taco's and generally acting like homeless people for a few days before returing to reality. My impression of Cabo San Lucas is a college frat party which might be ok for one night but other than that a more laid back experience around local people if that can happen.

Thanks again for your response....I appreciate it.

BajaWarrior - 12-11-2006 at 11:40 AM

bajacactus.com

Their website is under construction but they list an email address and phone numbers. Also, the owners are on this board as bajacactus.

DavidK also has first hand experiance with this hotel and will highly reccomend it.

Back in the old days my brother, cousin, and myself use to drive it in one shot at 24 hours for a lot shorter of time to spend there then you did. Once, even did it for Memorial Day Weekend adding a day and a half at the front and a day at the back. They didnt believe us at work! Wouldn't do it now, well, maybe, if I could get the three of us together! We did that drive in about 86', in a 72' Buick LeSabre Convertable with no windshield wipers, and wouldn't you know it? It rained in Santa Rosalia!

Other than that, perfect trip!

That was our first trip ever, we went to surf. Had all three surfboards stacked up and sticking out of the lack of rear window. One guy drives, one guy keeps him awake and switches out cassette tapes, one guy sleeps.

Hey, I feel a road trip coming on!

jerry - 12-11-2006 at 11:46 AM

umpqua check your u2u"s

umpqua - 12-11-2006 at 03:21 PM

I ordered the Baja Camping book and got a message that the new edition does not come out until after I leave on the 6th. Here's a longshot but if someone has a copy that they would loan me I would pay the postage and insure that it was returned to you in the original condition.....or better yet I will leave my new addition copy on order and send it to you when I finally get it.

My friend that is going with me is ordering the AAA map today. I also ordered another detailed road map from the bajabooksandmaps site.

I will check out the bajacactus site and try to project my arrival date and book a room. Sounds good.

Any other suggestions on cheap/clean places to stay, drink, out of the way, off the wall spots and camping areas will be appreciated. Thanks to all for the help.

Minnow - 12-11-2006 at 03:38 PM

Warrior, we used to do the same thing. We called it the three man. two in front of the truck while one slept in a bed we made in the back. We always had a fresh driver. We would car top a 14 valco with an 18hp tohatsu. I remember once pulling into San Lucas Cove at about 8 in the morning, the with was blowing but we pulled the boat off anyway. Caught a mess of Sierra at the mouth of the estero. Loaded up and were in La Ventana by about 9 pm. Man, them were the days. That was 1991, I was in my early twentys, and had the fishing bug bad.

[Edited on 11-12-2006 by Minnow]

Skipjack Joe - 12-11-2006 at 05:27 PM

BajaWarrior gives good advice.

Instead of trying to see the entire peninsula pick out a couple of destinations and spend some quality time there. Do the remainder of your exploration while traveling to and from these couple of main stops.

Refrain from driving in the dark as the highway is narrow and dangerous. That leaves you with about 10 daylight hours for travel each day.

Drive straight on through to El Rosario without stopping for anything other than food and gas. For a first time traveler you might as well experience the best that baja has to offer.

The Baja Almanac is more detailed than the AAA map and will give you better ideas for those remote beaches you are seeking.

For us a good overnight stopover at Guerrero Negro has been the Dunas motel. It's a baja version of Motel 6. $20/night. Very clean and tidy. Hot water and TV. No other amenities. It's next to the 'La Balena' supermercado. You park your vehicle in an inner courtyard, which greatly reduces the chance of a breakin.

I would recommend Conception Bay as a baja introduction but with all of the recent crime I feel very hesitant. Punta Chivato might be a better choice.

Another idea would be to do a loop through the central baja desert. Drive to BOLA then south to San Francisquito camping along those beaches (stop at Las Animas for a day) then west to Los Arcos and back out to the highway. There's some fine country in that area. And it's very remote.

Buen viaje

You dont need no stinkin' guide book.....

Hook - 12-11-2006 at 05:33 PM

....you have the collective knowledge of the Nomads site which is much more up-to-date, in-depth and esotheric. Just cut and paste the posts you want onto two or three sheets of paper.

So you have 16 days total from Oregon? That would mean only 14 days in Mexico assuming you can get to the border and back from the border in one day.

The key to your wishes is leaving at first light on MAJOR driving days because the days are so short in January. Sleep in on days when you are already in the locale you want to explore.

Baja Cactus is nice but unless you are crossing the border around noon, I would push on farther. Assuming a first-light departure from SD, I'd do this....

m=minor driving day
M=MAJOR driving day

Day 1-SD to BOLA, stay at Campo Archelon (M)
Day 2-BOLA
Day 3-BOLA to Mulege, stay at Hotel Mulege (M)
Day 4-check out Mulege, Bahia Concepcion, camp at Playa Escondida or Campo Los Naranjos (m)
Day 5-in camp
Day 6-head to La Paz, maybe late breakfast in Loreto, stay o-night in La Paz (others are more familiar with La Paz hotels) (M)
Day 7-La Paz
Day 8-drive to La Ventana, set up camp (m)
Day 9-La Ventana, explore the coastal road towards Cabo Pulmo, maybe (m)
Day 10-drive to San Jose del Cabo (others are more familiar with SJdC hotels) (m)
Day 11-do San Lucas during the day and a portion of the night, return to SJdC hotel. (m)
Day 12-drive to San Ignacio, stay at Rice and Beans or Ignacio Springs or ? (M)
Day 13-El Rosario, Baja Cactus or camp at La Bocana. (M)
Day 14-cross the border. (m)

bajarich - 12-11-2006 at 09:07 PM

Don't camp in sight of highway 1. The recent murder was at a beach that could be seen from the highway. It's best to get a ways off the road. At Bahia Conception the drive up the Pennislula is nice with remote campsites, but I was warned once about pangueros raiding unattended camps out there. Check out Ligui, south of Loreto, and Agua Verde, and do a whalewatch trip at either Guerro Negro, San Ignacio (36 miles of washboard), or Lopez Mateos. If you camp at Lopez Mateos, camp behind the fish cannery, they lock the gate at night so no one can come out to bother you. I too suggest only going as far as the Mulege-Loreto area and spending some time relaxing and exploring, unless you want to get to Cabo for those $8.00 margaritas and $100 hookers. I didn't make it to Cabo until my 7th trip to Baja, and then it was only so I could Kayak out to Los Arcos. I don't go to Baja to visit Gringolandia. Try San Nicolas and San Juanico Cove between Mulege and Loreto, or take the horseback trip in to see the cave paintings near Mulege. I guarantee you will be tired of driving if you go all the way to Cabo and wish you had stayed longer at a lot of places along the way.

The other way is to make a big push to get as far south as fast as you can and they stay in one area for several days. The weather is best farther south and camping is good on the East Cape road (Cabo Pulmo, Los Frailes area). There is generally a north wind on the SOC in January, so you want a protected beach. I'll be heading down to Los Frailes at the end of January, Maybe our paths will cross. I drive a white Dodge Dakota with a 4-Wheel Camper with a Sea Kayak on top and haul a 14 ft Aluminum boat. Enjoy your trip.

David K - 12-11-2006 at 09:15 PM

Camp out of sight, far from the highway... or camp with others... or in a secure campground.

umpqua - 12-11-2006 at 10:54 PM

All of this is really good information. You guys are very helpful.

Hook, I'm taking to heart that I don't need not stink'n guide book. I've already pasted some stuff into a folder that I will take and your day by day is great.

I think the plan is to flog it as far south as possible as quickly as possible and then start the unwind. I agree with bajarich that I'm not real interested in spending much time at all in Cabo other than to say that we made it and probably head back out ($100 hookers??). I keep hearing good things about Agua Verde so we plan to check that out.

I had a good conversation with Jerry a few minutes ago....everyone on here has been helpful. If anyone happens along the thread please make suggestions as I will be checking in.

Let me know if anyone needs anything hauled south from Portland. Leaving around the 6th of Jan.

Thanks....Rodney

Diver - 12-12-2006 at 01:25 AM

You can get the recent edition of the book here;

http://shopping.yahoo.com/p:Traveler's%20Guide%20to%20Camping%20Mexico's%20Baja:%20Explore%20Baja%20and%20Puerto%20Penasco%20with%20Your%20RV%20or%20T ent:3001051698

You must copy and paste entire link.

[Edited on 12-12-2006 by Diver]

osoflojo - 12-12-2006 at 11:23 AM

All the road/camping advise is good, but dont believe all you hear about Cabo. Anyone who pays $8 for a Margi doesnt belong in Mexico anyway. Come check it out for your self.

oxxo - 12-12-2006 at 04:22 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by osoflojo
All the road/camping advise is good, but dont believe all you hear about Cabo. Anyone who pays $8 for a Margi doesnt belong in Mexico anyway. Come check it out for your self.


I agree. I have travelled the length and breadth of Baja and I have found excellent food and beverages in Los Cabos that equal the least expensive prices anywhere in Baja. Just stay out of the BIG tourist hotels when you purchase food and drink. I liked Los Cabos so much, I purchased a place there. It is as inexpensive as you want to make it.

Minnow - 12-12-2006 at 04:37 PM

There is a great campground in los cabos, closer to sjdc, we stayed at that is right on the beach. They have a good restaurant , showers and a pool, and it is close to everything. I believe it was 15 per night. I can't remember the name, I am sure others can help me out here, but it was right next to the moconose. I mean Myconose?sp.:biggrin:

oxxo - 12-12-2006 at 04:43 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Minnow
There is a great campground in los cabos,but it was right next to the moconose. I mean Myconose?sp.:biggrin:


Mikonos (as in the island in Greece) I believe the campground is now history, but I am not sure.

Neal Johns - 12-12-2006 at 04:55 PM

umpqua , check your U2U.

kellychapman - 12-12-2006 at 05:09 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by umpqua
Thanks for the input on this....early on I'm liking the site and I do appreciate the help.

Fishbuck: Thanks for your comments and I agree that a couple of weeks won't do this trip justice. PLUS, I'll be driving from Portland so that adds another couple of K to the trip. It's just that I'm not sure when my next chance at this trip will come. I've wanted to do it for 20 years and the time has just now come. Maybe I'll get down there and decide to stay another week. Who knows. Maybe I won't want to come back at all.

Baja Warrior: I read the site last night and had decided that my first day goal south would be to stop in El Rosario at the Baja Cactus. Hopefully I can stop there on a Monday night in Mid January and they will have a room? If not is there another place that anyone can recommend?

Diver: I'll go to the link on the books and also get the camping book that you recommend. Thanks for the suggestion.

The plan for the trip is to get to the Sea of Cortez near Meluge or LaPaz as quickly as possible and then slow the trip. We're interested in camping on fairly isolated beaches, drinking beer, cooking shrimp taco's and generally acting like homeless people for a few days before returing to reality. My impression of Cabo San Lucas is a college frat party which might be ok for one night but other than that a more laid back experience around local people if that can happen.

Thanks again for your response....I appreciate it.
I always stay at Baja's Best when in El Rosario....very bright yellow Cafe/B&B on the right hand side just as your leaving town...I knowyour camping and wanting that homeless feeling..but I have never slept on better beds in my entire life including a 5 star hotel....about $50 a night. Cabo is not a place to go and hang out as it is an enormous frat party and unless your spending lots of pesos's I would skip it since your time is limited. Loreto is fantastic (of course I live here) but I do not know where people camp on the beach...although there are spots without doubt. The bay of Conceptcion is breath taking...and yes we did have a horrible event where a life was taken...but he was alone and in a very desolate area (if I understand correctly) overall it is very safe as long as you pay attention and do not take your inexperience for this area for granted....just really pay attention to where and who you are with...and isolation is not always a good thing...so camp or be close to where others are somewhat close by. of course you know not to drive at night....You could spend your entire time not going any further south then loreto actually do to the wonderful camping in between Mulege and Loreto if you choose. '
Have a wonderful trip and be safe.....you will be blown away (not just the north wind) by the beauty of Baja so choose your places wisely as your time is limited.