Trip Report #1: 12/20/2003-12/23/2003 Playa San Rafael
After getting our tourist permits at the border, we left TJ at 5:25 am with our sites on hitting Bahia San Rafael in the early evening. On our trip
south, we were waived through each check point. Even when others were being searched, we were sent on our way. I had a feeling that this meant good
things to come.
We arrived in San Quintin at 9:30am. Watch out for the unmarked tope about ? mile south of Old Mill turn-off. (Also, there are a few tricky ones in
El Rosario and San Ignacio.) We topped off gas at El Rosario and continued on. We had a few chuckles as we pulled through town. There?s a caf?
claiming to have the best coffee in Baja. The store?s wall had a large Starbuck?s emblem painted on the side. Also, work being done on military base
there, too.
Pulled into BOLA about 2:00pm. As David mentioned the last section of road has recently been repaired. I figured it was another Christmas gift.
Tracy and I had a great lunch at Las Hamachas. I bought 200 pesos of gas which topped off my Toyota 4wd pickup, we bought some beer, aired down the
tires, and were on our way by 3:00.
The road to Playa San Rafael is not good but not bad either. (I suppose road conditions are subjective so just a side-note. I have driven dirt roads
all of my life and thus am used to them. Also, I have good tires and a 4wd. But with that said, I don?t like to drive very fast either. Just about
any road in Baja can be done in 2wd?just look at the locals. But, then again, look at the condition of the cars the locals drive.) The road was
definitely in worse condition than the last time I had driven it a couple years back. From what my friend says, it won?t be repaired again until the
Baja 1000 rolls through. He says that the race is good because they fix the road but says the race is bad because the motorcycles tear up the road?go
figure.
We arrived at Playa San Rafael at 5:30pm. Many years ago I had met Pancho who lives there. Through my visits, we have become good friends. I know
both David K. and Mike H. can attest to Pancho?s good heart. (Dave and Mike: Pancho says hello and hurry back)
Anyways, Pancho emerged from his casa with open arms. I pulled out a plastic pitcher full of Sangria I had made and we made our toasts. We exchanged
some gifts and then Tracy and I went to set up camp on the beach.
We lucked out with great weather. (As always, winter can greet you with howling winds that can leave you finding sand in your ears for weeks.
Fortunately for us, we escaped (mostly) the winds on this trip.) I?d guess that the three days we were in PSR, temps were in the upper 70s during the
day and low 50s at night with little to no wind.
There were a few divers staying at PSR. We met them and their cook Ramon. The divers asked if we wanted to buy any scallops which we quickly did.
They sold us a kilo of monster-sized scallops and threw in a few gifts with purchase of 2 lobsters and 6 oysters for $100 pesos.
We were also invited by Ramon, the cook, to join him for an afternoon meal. He suggested to come over when we saw the divers come in. We did and
were in for another treat. He made a special meal which I have only had once before and a definite first for Tracy?sopa de tortuga. It was
fantastic! I know a few might be offended that we ate turtle soup but when in Baja?..
I reminded Pancho of our past games of checkers so he quickly made a playing board with some wood and a marker. He then cleaned my clock as in years
past.
Tracy and I finally headed out on 12/23 for Muluge. BE WARNED, the road south to Bahia San Francisquito is very challenging in areas. As I mentioned
before, 2wd is an option but not one that I would want. But, the road from Rancho El Progresso to El Arco is great. The road from El Arco to Hwy 1
is about as bad as always.
Camped in Muluge at Orchard for $5, took hot showers, and got ready for our next leg of the trip to Agua Verde?stay tuned?
Zac Mike Humfreville - 1-5-2004 at 08:32 PM
Zac,
You got the best weather. We were in Bahia de Los Angeles 12/28 through 1/5 and got early rain, 2 days of sun followed by cold wind. But the crowd
of friends made the whole visit great.
Looking forward to your next report.
Andale
Ski Baja - 1-5-2004 at 09:01 PM
BB, thanks for the report. Can'ty wait to hear about Agua Verde these days.
turtle soup
Chris Holmstead - 1-5-2004 at 09:46 PM
A few might be offended? Try disgusted, I know there are loop holes for pecaderos, but it is still silly americans that help keep this going.
Last time I was at Agua Verde there were many sea turtles, I hope you can restrain yourself from the urge to make soup because you know when you're
in Baja...
What? when you are in Baja the rules don't apply? I hope you're gone from Agua Verde before I get there.
[Edited on 1-6-2004 by Chris Holmstead]Mike Humfreville - 1-5-2004 at 10:33 PM
It's important to understand how remote some of our Baja friends are and how much a meal is important to them. "Laws" passed by folks in businesslike
highrises in bustling cities don't feed their children.
It takes time and education to convince the tiny rural communities that there are "reasons" for the "laws" and that we will all win if we work
together.
A young lady, Rubi, we met last year in the tiny wide-spread community of Laguna San Ignacio (not San Ignacio proper) was taken out of the community,
educated regarding the REASONS for conserving the cajuama, and re-introduced to the community and is now having a positive influence on the locals
recognizing that protection for some species will help us all.
It's about communication and helping folks understand the "WHY" for laws.
Good discussion. Understanding required on both sides.
Regards,
Mike
[Edited on 1-6-2004 by Mike Humfreville]David K - 1-6-2004 at 12:03 AM
Chris, did you not understand Baja Boy's post? He did not kill a turtle and make soup with it. He was invited by the locals to join THEM, out of
kindness. To refuse such an invitation would be insulting and undiplomatic given the circumstances.
Zac having some soup or not had NO effect on that turtle's life or any other.
The purpose of the ban on turtle fishing/hunting is so their numbers get so great (again) they can once again be consumed by the masses. The meat
is/was highly prized.
I was too young to remember the taste, but Turtle steak was a Cruz Diaz specilaty in Bahia de los Angeles. We were also invited to join the villagers
in San Miguel Comondu to enjoy turtle stew when we drove through in 1966. It was being cooked in the turtle's own shell, over an open fire.
Baja Boy is more concerned than anyone I know for global causes. He participates in marathons and other events to raise money for things like cancer
and aids research. He is a GOOD human being.
Playa SanRafael - Las Venecas
Steve in Oro Valley - 1-6-2004 at 01:18 PM
Great report!!!
On the trail to San Francisquito, and nearby Playa San Rafael, there is a junction near "Las Venecas".
Does anybody know how the cerro on the Baja Almanac called "Las Venecas" came to get it's name? David K ???
Google results in (1) a field trip by David K and party a couple of years ago and (several) various Venezuelan web sites where I infer that a "
Veneca" is a girl from Venezula.
sorry Chris....but DK is right on here!
capt. mike - 1-8-2004 at 06:28 AM
you are WAY over board in attacking Zac on this matter of eating a dead reptile.
It might have been taken due to any manner of circumstances, including HUMANS being HUNGRY! fer krise sakes....
When will these people start putting people ahead of animals??
I can't wait to taste a turtle steak some day. I might even raise my own to kill and eat! I WILL NOT however purposely take one that is protected
legally, but if one becomes available due to whatever circumstances......Does tabasco or A-1 sauce apply?...Family Guy - 1-8-2004 at 08:39 PM
Quote:
Does tabasco or A-1 sauce apply?
maybe you should ask him...Ken Bondy - 1-9-2004 at 10:42 PM
OK, can't resist. If you look closely in the upper left beyond the turtle you will see a large hammerhead shark.
