BajaNomad

Baja Adventure: Part Three, Mission Santa Maria

Pappy Jon - 3-24-2007 at 03:32 PM

Baja Adventure: March 2007
Part Three, Mission Santa Maria




From Los Corrales I head north to Bahia de Los Angeles (BOLA). This was a relaxed day as I didn't have far to go. On the way up I check out Bahia las Animas. It was nice and I later found out I didn't drive up the road far enough to some good camping past the fish camp. I arrive at BOLA around 3:00 PST and bought sodas and tortillas. The Pemex was closed and I hoped they were not out of fuel. This was a concern as I was going to need gas to make the drive to Mission Santa Maria then to Gonzaga Bay, my next chance for gas. I camp next to Red Mountain just outside of town and have the spot to myself. Happy birthday Bushrat! I kick back with a cerveza and enjoy the sunset. I plug in the headset to my phone and play Brooks & Dunn.


Oh when love dies
You can't bury those memories
Oh when love dies
It disappears but it never leaves
When love dies it don't rest in peace


Ya, what he said.

The next morning I'm up and head into town for fuel, then the drive to Mission Santa Maria. One the way I pass a nice FZJ80 Land Cruiser and we get to talking. I find out it's Chris, aka CPG at IH8MUD.com. He heard the Pemex was out of fuel, or out of electricity to pump, and there was a guy that will be selling fuel from drums at 7am. We head that way and sure enough, he is pumping from the back of his truck. I dump the 20L I have on the rear bumper into the truck and get the can refilled, $160MXN. In theory this should be enough. I part, with Chris and his friend going south, and me going north.

I get to Santa Ynez (Santa Ines in the Baja Almanac) and decide to check if there is gas in Catavina. As hoped there is a women there siphoning gas from 5 gallon cans. Again I dump the gas from the bumper into the truck and have her fill up my NATO can, $155MXN. I now have enough fuel to hit San Felipe if I have to. Life is good. I go back to Santa Ynez and stop at the restaurant. There are three Canadians there enjoying a cerveza who HIKED to the mission and proudly show off their blisters. I get directions to the road and talk with Ralph about the road. Ralph lives in the canyon, and is a Toyota guy too with a Gen3 mini-truck, modified for Baja. He is concerned about me going in solo. It's only 14 miles, well within my comfort zone so I'm not concerned. Regardless, I tell him if he doesn't hear from me by noon Tuesday to come looking. I plan to come out on Monday so Tuesday gave me a day grace.

I start down the road which is slow, but nothing exciting. After maybe 10 miles the road starts to descend into a valley and gets rough. Going down was not a problem, though I do hit a few rocks. The road into the Mission is somewhat infamous. Some folks consider the road to Mission Santa Maria to be the worst road in Baja. Personally, I didn't find it at all difficult coming in. It was slow driving, but more annoying than difficult. I would learn later that coming out was going to be a challenge.

I get to the Mission about 2:00PST, it's 99*F and 7% humid. I guzzle H2O, set up shade, and park my hide in the chair. It's too hot to explore around so I wait until it cools off. My Engel fridge is working over time to stay at 39*F. The Mission is set in a palm oasis with Mexican blue palms and Mexican fan palms, though the Mexican fan palms look half way between Mex fan palm and California fan palm. The trunks do flare at the bottom, and they appear, for the most part, to be self-shedding, but the trunks are thicker than expected. There is a stream that runs along side the Mission and a large group of palms just down stream. Ralph said there are pools below the Mission. I will explore them in the morning.

Mision Santa Maria de los Angeles was founded in 1767 by the Jesuits. It was abandoned in 1818. There is a picture taken in 1905 that shows the end walls still standing along with one side wall, and a second building standing with all four walls. Now about the only thing left are the eroded end walls, a pile of mud from the side walls, and really nothing left of the second building. It won't be long before nothing is left of this historic mission. There are some rock corral walls near by.

The wind picked up in the afternoon and my sunshade was having a time staying up. I hoped it would die down after sunset, but this would not be the case. Finally after sunset I collapse the sunshade and climb into the tent, only to have the wind pick up and start dumping sand on top of me. I take the tent down, empty out the truck and climb in. Finally, the wind does die down.

I get up at first light and the wind is very calm, though it didn't stay that way. The sun shines here late because of the mountains to the east and sets early because of mountain to the west. I decide to hike down to the oasis below the Mission and look for the pools for future reference. I find several worth dipping in and decide to come back after it warms up. At 10am PST it's 94*F and 9% humid and I decide it's time. I load up lunch, agua, camera, GPS, and a towel and hike to the big pool for a [skinny]dip. This pool was deep, bottomless, big, cool, clear but slightly green from the algae, and smells slightly of soda. It's feels good. I soak for awhile then crawl out onto one of the flat rocks on the edge to air dry and contemplate how, at this moment, at least right now, life is good. Yep.

I gather my stuff and decide to explore further. I want to see where the water is coming from. The spring. I thought this was a small side canyon, but this was a major addition. This canyon runs to the north and opens up from the junction at the pools. Palms, both blue and Mex fan, continue up the canyon, though are widely spaced. The water flowed all the way up. I hike up a mile from the pools and decide to turn around. This canyon will have to wait for another day as it's longer than I thought.

I stop again at the bottomless pool for a cool-down dip before hiking back to the Mission. Back at camp it's 102*F and 93% dry. As I'm writing I notice small blisters on my thighs. I seem to remember climbing up through a spurge (Euphorbia tomentulosa) on the way out, but didn't think it caused reactions. Guess it does. The blisters were thin, and weren't spreading or recurring after they broke. File this knowledge away.

Silence is broken by the noise of engines. Sounded like motorcycles, but turn out to be four couples on side-by-side 4x4 ATV's. Looked like a nice way to explore. They stop and chat, and some wander down to the pools for a dip. They are at the Mission maybe an hour, then decide they need to get out before sunset.

That night the wind howled again and I retreat to the truck for a second time. This time, it doesn't calm down and blows all night. I was hoping to run down to the pools in the morning with the camera and take some nice pics, but that didn't happen. The wind was too strong for a tripoded camera. Guess I'll need to come back.

That next morning I get up to tackle the road out. As expected it was a challenge. There were maybe three or four steep rocky climbs. The 4Runner is built for this stuff, but it was still not easy. Between the super low gears and the rear differential locker I was able to get out without too much effort. There was one climb where I didn't think the locker was needed and didn't turn on the compressor. WRONG. I start up the climb, get almost to the top, and the tires break loose and I start to bounce sideways. The truck stalls and I sit there awhile just to think. I turn on the compressor and the locker, left foot on the brake, right foot on the gas, and turn the key to let the starter crawl me forward and fire the engine. For the next climbs I had the compressor running just in case.

Mission Santa Maria to Santa Ynez:
Moving time = 2:23 hours; moving average = 6.0 mph; odo = 14.2 miles.

Pics at: http://ratstew.home.comcast.net/santamaria.pdf (5.1mb)
Google Earth track: http://ratstew.home.comcast.net/bajamarch07.kml

[Edited on 3-25-2007 by Pappy Jon]

Cypress - 3-24-2007 at 03:37 PM

Thanks for the report.:bounce:

cpg - 3-24-2007 at 06:01 PM

Excellent report!! Thank you for sharing. How can I open your track to los coralles? I wanted to compare. Here is a picture of the tractor is it the same one you saw ?

tractor.JPG - 28kB

Pappy Jon - 3-24-2007 at 06:55 PM

Yep, that's the same one.

You need Google Earth to view the KML. It's a free download, but does take awhile to load. It also requires broadband.

Just right click on the file name and save it. Then open from your computer. You can click off the other tracks to view just Los Corrales. I have the Los Corrales track named by itself.

Here is a jpg from Google Earth of the Los Corrales route.




[Edited on 3-25-2007 by Pappy Jon]

nicely done

John M - 3-24-2007 at 07:14 PM

Well-written report - you have a easy to read style. Good photos.

Thanks, John M

DianaT - 3-24-2007 at 07:37 PM

Don't know which one of your reports to which we should respond and they are all quite wonderful, as are the attached slideshows.

Thank you so much for sharing a great trip. We see some places to which we must travel. :spingrin:

Well done!
Diane

cpg - 3-24-2007 at 08:12 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Pappy Jon
Yep, that's the same one.

You need Google Earth to view the KML. It's a free download, but does take awhile to load. It also requires broadband.

Just right click on the file name and save it. Then open from your computer. You can click off the other tracks to view just Los Corrales. I have the Los Corrales track named by itself.

Here is a jpg from Google Earth of the Los Corrales route.




[Edited on 3-25-2007 by Pappy Jon]
The more direct looking wash used to be the route. That is the same way my wife and I went in last year. Dis you see some sort of meat hanger on your right on the way in? We sucked a lot of gas n the deep sand washes. I hase my track saved just cant remember how to get it in google earth.

[Edited on 3-25-2007 by cpg]

los.JPG - 34kB

Pappy Jon - 3-24-2007 at 08:35 PM

Pic looks familiar :spingrin:


I didn't see a way down that wash, but then I was following the route most traveled. I would like to go back, but not unless somebody else is along. I looked at Google Earth at the road that goes south from the fork at the beach. It goes a long, long way. You can see some rather large correls on the aerial images.

You need Google Earth plus to upload GPS tracks. It costs something like $20.


[Edited on 3-25-2007 by Pappy Jon]

BAJACAT - 3-24-2007 at 09:13 PM

thanks for all your reports they are great Pappy John, you did put alot of miles,thats the only way to see all the things Baja has to offer.I got only on question,was somebody with you.

Pappy Jon - 3-24-2007 at 09:19 PM

No, I was solo.

Barry A. - 3-24-2007 at 09:29 PM

Pappy Jon------It looks to me that where you camped (south of El Barril) about what the Baja Atlas calls "El Arenal" just north of "Estero La Palmita". We camped about 2 miles south of there on the beach at an old abandoned Fish Camp just south of the mini-point that shows up on your aerial photo, (but does not show up on the Atlas map), and that was in April of 1999. At that time the Rancho San Miguel was a well maintained thriving enterprise, cattle being their mainstay. We thought that the "old Church" that you photographed was part of a very extensive Ejido operation that failed. It was totally abandoned when we were there in '99. There were extensive cement irrigation ditches, some of which show up in your photos.

Our access to Rancho San Miguel was down the almost straight drainage that shows up in your aerial photo, and at that time it was a pretty good road. It apparently washed out completely subsequently. And now they have bull dozed a new road in avoiding that drainage, which is the way you got in. That is a shame, as the drainage was beautiful, full of Palo Blanco trees, old well-made stone corrals, and other old but substantial improvements.

As stated, we attempted to get to "Los Corrales" on that trip but got into very soft, deep sand about 2 or 3 miles SE of Rancho San Miguel. I was in an F-250 4x4 with a cabover Callen Camper. My buddy vehicle was an Isuzu Trooper, and there is no way he could have pulled me out if I got stuck, so we gave up, returned to Rancho San Miguel, and from there went NE to the beach past the "old Church". We could not get across Estero La Palmita as it was a muddy bog at the time. We could not find a way around the bog. Obviously you did, and were able to get up to "El Arenal". The vaqueros at Rancho San Miguel did not think that we could get to "Los Corrales", so that was pretty discouraging. With a lighter vehicle I am betting that we could, tho.

cpg - 3-25-2007 at 12:08 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by Pappy Jon
Pic looks familiar :spingrin:


I didn't see a way down that wash, but then I was following the route most traveled. I would like to go back, but not unless somebody else is along. I looked at Google Earth at the road that goes south from the fork at the beach. It goes a long, long way. You can see some rather large correls on the aerial images.

[Edited on 3-25-2007 by Pappy Jon]


Hey Pappy,
Next time you head down maybe we can plan to go together and do some exploring. I was down that road last April with my wife and nobody else we had a blast. Just have to be very careful when you are a solo truck out that far from Cruiser Dan!

David K - 3-25-2007 at 09:41 PM

Jon, so there was no repairs to the eroded doorway at the mission per INAH's report?

Glad you had such a great Baja adventure... Mision Santa Maria is some of the best of Baja!

Thanks so much!!!

[Edited on 3-26-2007 by David K]

mailedD21.jpg - 22kB

OMAR.V - 4-14-2007 at 02:12 AM

Pappy Jon

It's been a while since I've entered the forums and let me tell you, this report has made me enter every day of this week just to read it again.
Your pictures are the best I've seen from Mission Santa Maria. Your reports are great.
This is my favorite place in Baja and I've been there 3 times. BUT, have never seen the pool in this first post, in which direction you walk if you start at the mission? Is that near the swamp that you have to drive through?
I've been at a very large pool called "La poza de la escuadra" but you need a rope to climb back if you jump in.

Thanks for your report

[Edited on 4-14-2007 by OMAR.V]

Skipjack Joe - 4-15-2007 at 05:58 PM

Wonderful slide show pappy!

I encourage others to click on the ratstew hyperlink and see.

BajaSedoso - 4-16-2007 at 08:05 PM

Hello Pappy Jon,
what a great trip report and a wonderful slide show. I have been to Catavina many times and Santa Maria is one of the places I would really like to go. Hopefully sooner rather than later.
You mentioned that you talked to Ralph. I was wondering how he and Patti were doing? I saw them last in spring of 2006 and it seemed that Patti had some health issues that forced them to go back to the states a couple of times for medical care. I hope they had a better season this year.
Sedoso

cpg - 10-27-2007 at 10:47 AM

Hi Pappy,

If you are around can you re post your track to Los Corrales.

Thank you

CPG

Pappy Jon - 10-27-2007 at 05:49 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by cpg
Hi Pappy,

If you are around can you re post your track to Los Corrales.

Thank you

CPG


Chris,

Hope these work. Cumcast has been temperamental lately. For the KML you will want to right click and save it. Hopefully it opens ok in GE.



Map JPG

Google Earth KML

cpg - 10-28-2007 at 08:12 AM

Thank you Pappy.
Do you also have a .gpx file?

David K - 10-28-2007 at 10:31 AM

Two months after Pappy Jon's trip, we went in: http://community-2.webtv.net/vivabaja/msm also here on Nomad'd Baja Trip Reports forum

It is a great place... and the big horn sheep were a great added thrill!

cpg - 10-28-2007 at 11:28 AM

Hi David,

You guys did not go near Los Corrales did you?

Thanks

Chris

Pappy Jon - 10-28-2007 at 11:32 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by cpg
Thank you Pappy.
Do you also have a .gpx file?


Chris,

The only other file format I have is a GDB which is a Garmin MapSource format. MapSource won't export to a GPX format. I can export to MPS, DXF, or TXT.

Paps

Pappy Jon - 10-28-2007 at 11:34 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by cpg
Hi David,

You guys did not go near Los Corrales did you?

Thanks

Chris


I didn't make it south to the corrals either. Next time.

[Edited on 10-28-2007 by Pappy Jon]

David K - 10-28-2007 at 05:22 PM

Nope, Mision Santa Maria... it's all here for you to see: http://community-2.webtv.net/vivabaja/msm

'The squarecircle' has been egging me to go to Los Corrales for a long time... someday soon, I hope!

cpg - 10-28-2007 at 06:54 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Pappy Jon
Quote:
Originally posted by cpg
Thank you Pappy.
Do you also have a .gpx file?


Chris,

The only other file format I have is a GDB which is a Garmin MapSource format. MapSource won't export to a GPX format. I can export to MPS, DXF, or TXT.

Paps


Hi Pappy
Can i get the GDB file?
I am hoping your route is still intact and not washed away.
It goes thru so many washes I could see how it would washed away with a heavy rain storm.
Thanks

cpg - 10-28-2007 at 06:57 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by David K
Nope, Mision Santa Maria... it's all here for you to see: http://community-2.webtv.net/vivabaja/msm

'The squarecircle' has been egging me to go to Los Corrales for a long time... someday soon, I hope!


I like the drive south of Bay of La there are so many place to explore. I am tring to map out some roads that head to the beach in different areas with google earth. You can see the old road to Los Coralles pretty easy now.

Pappy Jon - 10-28-2007 at 07:02 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by cpg
Hi Pappy
Can i get the GDB file?
I am hoping your route is still intact and not washed away.
It goes thru so many washes I could see how it would washed away with a heavy rain storm.
Thanks


MapSource File

[Edited on 10-29-2007 by Pappy Jon]

[Edited on 10-29-2007 by Pappy Jon]

cpg - 10-29-2007 at 05:54 AM

Thank you Pappy!

Roberto - 10-29-2007 at 06:51 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by cpg
Hi Pappy,

If you are around can you re post your track to Los Corrales.

Thank you

CPG


Quote:
Originally posted by David K
Two months after Pappy Jon's trip, we went in: http://community-2.webtv.net/vivabaja/msm also here on Nomad'd Baja Trip Reports forum

It is a great place... and the big horn sheep were a great added thrill!
Quote:
Originally posted by cpg
Hi David,

You guys did not go near Los Corrales did you?

Thanks

Chris


Quote:
Originally posted by David K
Nope, Mision Santa Maria... it's all here for you to see: http://community-2.webtv.net/vivabaja/msm

'The squarecircle' has been egging me to go to Los Corrales for a long time... someday soon, I hope!


Now, there's our hero, right on point!:lol::lol::lol::lol:

Ken Cooke - 10-29-2007 at 09:46 PM

I enjoyed the read...great stuff from a Toyota guy. :tumble:

Pappy Jon - 10-30-2007 at 11:25 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by Ken Cooke
I enjoyed the read...great stuff from a Toyota guy. :tumble:


:lol: And to think I actually wheeled with a CJ7 in Moab a few weeks ago.

cpg - 10-30-2007 at 11:30 AM

How many miles on your toyota Pappy?

Pappy Jon - 10-30-2007 at 04:47 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by cpg
How many miles on your toyota Pappy?


She is still a youngster. 297,073.2, more or less. :lol:

Second engine 97K ago. Original tranny, never opened.

[Edited on 10-30-2007 by Pappy Jon]