BajaNomad

Mision Santa Maria, May 2007 (Part 1, to Baja Cactus, Santa Ynez and the Peninsular Divide)

David K - 5-31-2007 at 12:45 AM

WARNING: EXTREME 4WD ROAD FOR CRAZY PEOPLE WITH SEVERE BAJA FEVER!

Please allow me a few days to post all the better or intersting photos of this Memorial Weekend adventure... I will let you guys know when I am done, so please be patient.

Photos from my two cameras and Squarecircle's camera... reduced to under 50 kbs to meet 2007 Nomad photo size restrictions. Higher resolution images will be found on a future web page for this trip, to be posted on my web site, http://vivabaja.com/msm

General info: Founded in October 1766 at Calamajué and moved here in May 1767, Mision Santa Maria was the last mission founded by the Jesuit Order in California before the entire Society of Jesus (The Jesuits) were removed from New Spain by orders of the king of Spain in 1768... The Franciscans led by Junipero Serra replaced the Jesuits and built the adobe buildings whose ruins we see today. The mission closed in or just before 1775 as the 1769 Franciscan mission at San Fernando Velicata had superior resources and land.

The 14.4 mile road to the mission was built by Fred Hampe of Rancho Santa Ynez over many years beginning about 1959 in hopes of creating a shortcut to the ranch's property at Punta Final on the Sea of Cortez via the mission. Construction ended 2 miles past the mission at the edge of the deep Santa Maria Canyon... The Transpeninsular Highway was completed in late 1973 and with the newly graded road from Laguna Chapala to Gonzaga Bay finished in the mid-1980's, either the expense for a shortcut or the impossible terrain halted the project.

As you will see in the many photos to follow, this road is now an exhilarating four wheel drive challenge that allows those properly equipped to experience some of the finest Baja has to offer!

Okay, the trip... My vehicle is a 2005 Toyota Tacoma 4 door with 5 ft. bed, 4WD and TRD off road package (16" tires, Bilstein shocks, locking rear differential, etc.). Power is via 4.0 litre V-6 and 5-speed auto tranny and two-speed transfer case with automatic locking hubs. All worked flawlessly, my truck has over 55,000 miles and is less than 2 years old.

Traveling with me is my lovely fiance, Elizabeth (aka 'Baja Angel' on Nomad).

Joining us as the companion vehicle are our friends Roy ('The Squarecircle') and his amiga Blanche in Roy's new Land Rover LR3 with a V-8 and special traction control (he can provide more details).

We left San Diego about 2:00 pm Friday afternoon May 25, 2007, crossed at Otay to utilize the fantastic 'Blvd. 2000' (BC #201) expressway to Popotla (south side of Fox Baja Studios)... The onramp to the Scenic (Toll) highway is not finished, so a 6 mile run on the old free road south to the next on-ramp (Puerto Nuevo) was in order... Only one toll (San Miguel Village of $2.70 for the entire 75 miles from Otay to Ensenada.

Maneadero was very slow getting through due to construction as the highway is being widened to 4 lanes all the way through town.

We stopped at a taco stand in San Vicente for some tortas to hold us over until we reached El Rosario's Baja cactus Motel for a great first night sleep before our camping adventure began, the next day. Roy and Blanche arrived just minutes after we did, even though they left early and did some site seeing on the way south all day.

The next morning we had breakfast at Ed and Yolanda Lusk's restaurant (Baja's Best Bed & Breakfast), 2.2 miles from Baja Cactus... It was great again... Ed showed me a special bottle of Tequila (see photo) before we headed for Cataviña and Rancho Santa Ynez to begin our adventure.

Tortas and beer, San Vicente...





[Edited on 6-1-2007 by David K]

MSM07 002r.JPG - 41kB

[Edited on 8-10-2018 by David K]

David K - 5-31-2007 at 12:47 AM

Superior comfort at Baja Cactus Motel for the first night after the 5 hour drive from the border...

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David K - 5-31-2007 at 12:48 AM

Nice rooms, low price, 24 hour security, friendly staff!

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David K - 5-31-2007 at 12:50 AM

Unforgettable shower... the tiled bench area in the shower is out of site, to the left.

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David K - 5-31-2007 at 12:51 AM

How much tequila does Ed think I can drink???

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David K - 5-31-2007 at 12:52 AM

Rancho Santa Ynez... the team of Matilda and Oscar (seated to the right) keep the tradition of Baja ranch hospitality going

[Edited on 5-31-2007 by David K]

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David K - 5-31-2007 at 12:58 AM

Stickers anyone? Viva Baja sticker from 2003 still in the upper left corner...

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David K - 5-31-2007 at 01:01 AM

Set your odometer to 0.0 at the ranch, check your time, say a prayer... and head out this way (left, north of the parking area). Go through the second or left open gate...

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David K - 5-31-2007 at 01:03 AM

You will go behind the ranch, cross the arroyo and come to an unmarked fork at 0.9 mi., go left... uphill.

At mile 1.8 is your first 4WD challenge, this gully... the far side...

[Edited on 5-31-2007 by David K]

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David K - 5-31-2007 at 01:10 AM

When I got to the mission, I discovered my left 4X4 mud flap was gone... the right one is on Laguna Salada somewhere! Well, in this photo from Roy's camera the mystery as to where it fell off is solved... notice it a few feet behind my tire (far right edge of photo) at the top of that gully?! We didn't see it coming out, but suspected it came off near or on the Widowmaker, not this first grade so near Santa Ynez!

[Edited on 5-31-2007 by David K]

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David K - 5-31-2007 at 01:12 AM

A long straight section, but it is muy rocky and slow... about 2 miles from Santa Ynez...

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David K - 5-31-2007 at 01:13 AM

Getting closer to those hills...

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David K - 5-31-2007 at 01:14 AM

Nice drive, eh?

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David K - 5-31-2007 at 01:17 AM

This palm-lined arroyo is the very same one that passes by Santa Ynez and crosses the highway at Cataviña... here 5.6 miles from Santa Ynez, almost an hour's drive!

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[Edited on 8-10-2018 by David K]

David K - 5-31-2007 at 01:19 AM

The peninsular divide, 9.9 miles and 1.5 hours from Santa Ynez... The Sea of Cortez and Gonzaga's Punta Final can be seen...

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David K - 5-31-2007 at 01:20 AM

Check out my zoom, same direction as the above photo... that's Punta Final!

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David K - 5-31-2007 at 01:22 AM

Time for a break! (much more still to come)

PART 2 now posted: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=24897



[Edited on 6-1-2007 by David K]

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Cypress - 5-31-2007 at 05:09 AM

David K. Thanks for the pictures.:tumble:

CaboRon - 5-31-2007 at 07:29 AM

David K., These are awesome pics! Looking forward to the next installment. CaboRon

Steve in Oro Valley - 5-31-2007 at 08:19 AM

David:

Great fotos at just the right time!!

The countryside looks ultra-dry. Usually, the copalquines (Pachycormus discolor, the endemic Baja California elephant tree) have yellow orange leaves from normal spring defoliation in May.

Cirios also show color of falling leaves in late May. Looks like everything has gone dormant early this year.. ..

May is a great time of the year to visit the Central Desert.

Does that Land Rover have real 4 wheel drive with a low range?

Thanks for the postings.....

Steve in Oro Valley

[Edited on 5-31-2007 by Steve in Oro Valley]

David K - 5-31-2007 at 08:24 AM

Hi Steve,

Yes, it seems there was no Spring showers as the bog you drive through near the mission was dry (well, just wet dirt and a couple puddles)!

Cirios (boojums) had flowers (like flames on a candle)... May was awesome weather, yes!

The Land Rover has low range... otherwise it wouldn't get in or out of there... The road really is nearly gone. Maybe that's why INAH has not done what they said they were starting on the mission?

More tonight guys, I am off to work!

(advance sneak bog photo)...





[Edited on 6-14-2007 by David K]

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Neal Johns - 5-31-2007 at 08:42 AM

Great pics, David. I never seem to have time to take that many.

DianaT - 5-31-2007 at 09:43 AM

Looking forward to the next ones!

Thanks
Diane

Mexitron - 5-31-2007 at 09:52 AM

Great pics DK...a botanical question for you: Are all three palm types growing in the mission valley(Washingtonia filifera, W. robusta, and Brahea armata)? I recall seeing all three as you drive through the ravine in Catavina.

David K - 5-31-2007 at 05:16 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Mexitron
Great pics DK...a botanical question for you: Are all three palm types growing in the mission valley(Washingtonia filifera, W. robusta, and Brahea armata)? I recall seeing all three as you drive through the ravine in Catavina.


YES, all three growing together... we discussed the palms using Norm Roberts' book:

If I got it right, the common names being Mexican or Baja California Fan Palm for W. robusta (bare trunk except some dead leaves attached near the top),

California Fan Palm for W. filifera (dead leaves remain attached the almost the entire trunk),

and of course the exotic Blue Fan Palm for Erythea armata or Brahea armata.

Mexitron - 5-31-2007 at 05:30 PM

Thanks David...that Washingtonia robusta, Mexican Fan Palm, is an enigma--its rarely found in native habitat, especially in Baja, and yet it has now naturalized all over So. and Central California, probably Arizona too. The darn things are even surviving the Fort Worth winters!

David K - 5-31-2007 at 06:35 PM

Interesting stuff... plants are awesome: they feed us, shade us, add beauty, provide oxygen...

Part 2 is now posted, please go to: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=24897

Wingnut - 6-1-2007 at 02:53 PM

Great Pix's David, Thanks.

Sharksbaja - 6-1-2007 at 03:04 PM

Nice Job David! How are your kid-knees?:lol:

David K - 6-1-2007 at 05:31 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Sharksbaja
Nice Job David! How are your kid-knees?:lol:


We drive pretty slow on that road... 3-4 hours to go 14 1/2 miles!!! No shaking of the innards!;D

David's Trip Reports

CaboRon - 6-6-2007 at 10:15 AM

David, Many thanks for the great trip reports ..... how many years have you been exploring Baja ? CaboRon

It's my pleasure to share!

David K - 6-6-2007 at 08:11 PM

First trip was in 1965 to Gonzaga Bay, via San Felipe (I was 8 1/2) in our Jeep Wagoneer... many more followed as my parents and I caught Baja Fever!

I first traveled south without my folks when I was 16, during Spring Break 1974 in my VW Myers Manx dune buggy... Mision San Fernando, El Marmol & El Volcan, Calamajue, Gonzaga, Nuevo Mazatlan and home... the next year two vehicles wanted to follow along as word got out (via the CB radio in those days)!

Photo of me at the Calamajue ore mill ruins in 1967 on a trip to L.A. Bay.

66-67 pics 009.jpg - 49kB

Gadget - 6-9-2007 at 06:42 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by David K
Stickers anyone? Viva Baja sticker from 2003 still in the upper left corner...


Please not the Locos Mocos sticker in the second panel at btm right in the top right corner of panel.
Thank you

BAJACAT - 6-10-2007 at 07:27 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by David K
The peninsular divide, 9.9 miles and 1.5 hours from Santa Ynez... The Sea of Cortez and Gonzaga's Punta Final can be seen...
David what do you call the peninsular divide,is this spot the half way point in the peninsula?.

David K - 6-10-2007 at 08:23 AM

The 'peninsular divide' is the high elevation line going down the length of the peninsula where water drains to the Pacific on one side of the line or to the Gulf of California (Sea of Cortez) on the other... Like the Continental Divide where the two choices are Pacific and Atlantic (incl. Gulf of Mexico)...

windsurfeddy - 6-11-2007 at 11:44 AM

Ah yes, I remember seeing the pics of the oasis at the Santa Ynez rancho...beautiful. The locals said my 4x4 Ford van was too high for the road, we were alone,so chickened out. Sometime soon, though, I would love to try it with two vehicles though.

David K - 6-11-2007 at 09:21 PM

The road is rough, but if your Ford is tough... you can make it!

2 or more vehicles is wise and posi-traction, Detroit Locker, or some other differential lock on the back axle is probably very important to climb back up the Widowmaker and the other 4 steep grades! See my Part 2 and Part 6 installments of this trip report for photos of the road...

BAJACAT - 6-11-2007 at 09:39 PM

David so there is no way I can make it to Santa maria with my truck?,Im working on getting lockers for the front I have limited slip dif. in the rear.

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David K - 6-11-2007 at 09:41 PM

For easy reference, the other 5 parts of this trip report...

Part 2 (Down the Widowmaker): http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=24897

Part 3 (The mission): http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=24898

Part 4 (Oasis camp and bighorns!): http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=24902

Part 5 (Finding El Camino Real): http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=24915

Part 6 (Up the Widowmaker): http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=24966

360 degree moving panorama at the mission: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=25021

[Edited on 6-12-2007 by David K]

David K - 6-11-2007 at 09:46 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by BAJACAT
David so there is no way I can make it to Santa maria with my truck?,Im working on getting lockers for the front I have limited slip dif. in the rear.


Of course you can try... see the photos and be willing to get some dents in the body undersides...
:yes::spingrin::tumble::bounce:

Roberto - 6-12-2007 at 08:31 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by BAJACAT
Im working on getting lockers for the front I have limited slip dif. in the rear.


You want to get lockers for the rear FIRST - a limited slip differential will ... slip. Lockers on the front are more than likely unnecessary, and will make the truck harder to steer in tight situations. The tendency will be to want to go straight.

David K - 6-12-2007 at 09:14 AM

Yes Jose, I would also vote for the REAR locker... Going uphill is always going to be harder and since weight shifts to the back axle, it is there you want BOTH tires getting power... specially if one gets tipped into the air on those big rocks.

BAJACAT - 6-13-2007 at 09:17 PM

Thanks for the advice guys I will look it to rear lockers any sugestions?.

Roberto - 6-14-2007 at 08:17 AM

ARB. The only way to go.

2007 Trip to Mission Santa María

David K - 8-10-2018 at 06:32 AM

Part 1: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=24870

Quote: Originally posted by David K  
For easy reference, the other 5 parts of this trip report...

Part 2 (Down the Widowmaker): http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=24897

Part 3 (The mission): http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=24898

Part 4 (Oasis camp and bighorns!): http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=24902

Part 5 (Finding El Camino Real): http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=24915

Part 6 (Up the Widowmaker): http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=24966

360 degree moving panorama at the mission: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=25021

[Edited on 6-12-2007 by David K]


A great trip from 11 years ago!

David K - 12-4-2018 at 03:10 AM

Bump of a great trip with another 4WD pair of Nomad friends. Part 1 of 6 parts.