BajaNomad

Gonzaga - BOLA Loop Trip Report

preston - 6-26-2007 at 02:49 PM

Here is a quick trip report on my 5 day “loop trip” through upper Baja beginning June 19th with my 14-year-old son and my dog (Golden). I will try to post photos in a few minutes.

Day 1: San Diego to San Felipe through Mexicali. Total drive time was 5 hours. Road was in great shape all the way. Stayed at the Baja Mar hotel (behind the Baja Mar Restaurant): $50 with excellent security and good air conditioning. Strolled the Malecon at sunset to recover form the drive. I had a GREAT fish taco dinner at the restaurant just south of the Baja Mar restaurant. Atmosphere not as good as the Baja Mar, but food was better. Sorry, I don’t recall the name … but price was about $5 for 3 tacos, fixins and rice and beans.

Day 2: San Felipe to Gonzaga. Road to Puertocitos was in great shape all the way. No potholes … just the usual dips to be careful about. Puertocitos to Gonzaga: this was my 3rd time on this leg. Each time I say it will be my last … and then 6 months later I forget how bad it was. IT’S TERRIBLE!!!. My dog was hyperventilating the whole trip and my son had a miserable time. Total trip time (SF to Gonzaga) was about 5 hours with minimal stops.

My car started squealing about 3 miles out of Gonzaga but mysteriously stopped when I got into Gonzaga … go figure … a self healing car. Oh. My car is a ’97 Ford Explorer with 114K miles. Has never failed me yet! It will be my Baja car until it dies in Baja (where I will leave it to some local who will probably get another 50K miles out of it).

Arrived in Gonzaga and went right to Rancho Grande camping ($13/night … too much for what they have, but I’ve camped their 2 times before and no one collected so I figure we are about even), went for a “decompression swim”, and set up my porta-bote. Set-up time approximately 20 minutes with minimal help from my son … but mounted the 6 HP motor. MOTOR STARTED ON THE 1ST OR 2ND PULL (YAH!!). Since the motor is a 1969 Johnson 6 HP this was no small feat. Went for a quick spin around the bay, then picked up my son and we drove the boat to Alfonsinas for dinner. Meal was so-so but better than cooking ourselves or eating granola bars. Then back to the camp to start a fire and settle in for the night. Weather was GREAT for camping (cooled down to the mid-70’s by my take).

Water temp: mid to high 70’s in my opinion.

NOTE: this was my 1st real trip to Baja with the porta-bote so I was “testing” it … and it passed with flying colors. My guess is the boat was doing 15 MPH with me alone … and more like 10MPH with me and my son.

Day 3: Got up 5:30AM with the sun … started my boat (1st or 2nd pull again!) and was off for some fishing (my son was not up to it). Only caught some needle and trigger fish (released them all) but had a great time. Sun was not fully up so the island in the bay was gorgeous with the shadows still bouncing around. Just a great time exploring for a couple of hours.

There was no one else in the bay … just the birds, the fish and me!

BTW: I have all my licenses and the boat and fishing. Discover Baja made getting these painless.

After returning to camp, we went swimming, as it was not getting hotter. Fooled around for a couple of hours then broke camp (takes about 30 to 45 minutes with the porta-bote.). and we were on our way. Made the Gonzaga to HW 1 trip in less than 90 minutes with no stop at Cocos (my son wanted to keep moving). We did stop at the restaurant at Chalapa/HW1 intersection … GREAT FOOD. This was my 1st stop there ever and we split a quesadilla … fresh lechuga, tomatoes and avocado .. DELICIOSO! This will no go into my book as a preferred stop.

Another 90 minutes and we entered BOLA. I was there 9 months ago and what a change. The “town” (I will upgrade it from a village) was very active with lots of tourist and what seemed like 3 or 4 new restaurants. We just stopped at a tienda to pick up some supplies .. but I had to parallel park!! WOW!

Then we went to stay at Larry and Raquels ($60/night). Ruth was running the place and the cleanliness was about the same as the last time I was there. 3 small beefs and 1 big positive: the air conditioner was only working for 6-8 hours per day, the air conditioner is not big enough (actually I think it heats up the room), and the fan needs to be balanced or replaced (makes a terrible noise). However, the food was GREAT!!!! No need to bring food for cooking here. The cook that Ruth has does a great job … really the best of BOLA in my opinion. Dinner was around $10 (I had my own cervezas) and breakfast around $6.

Again, I dropped in my porta-bote … again it started on 1st try! Went for a spin and a swim. Wind was probably 5 to 10 MPH … very pleasant! Fooled around then crashed for the night.

Water temp: mid to high 70’s in my opinion.

There was only 1 other room occupied during our stay … dagget’s looked almost full for camping.

Day 4: Up at dawn for some fishing (alone as my son was a non-starter again…. Who wants to fish with his dad!). No wind at all so I followed the pangas out to the islands. I was a little nervous (I did have a marine radio and made sure I could talk to Ruth in case I had a problem) as I had never been this far out. But the boat behaved perfectly and my confidant built by the minute as I went past the islands, around the backs and enjoyed the sun rising.

Fishing was not so good … I basically got skunked. The real fishing was going on another 3 or 4 miles toward Guarda and I was chicken to venture out that far on my “ship”. I tried fishing iron and trolling rapalas … no luck at all. There we a few boats around me and they were getting no where as well. I did get one bottom fish but that’s all. However, I did have a great time just circling the islands on my boat … complete freedom! After a couple of hours I decided to head back in and did some bottom fishing near shore but release them all.

With the food so good at Larry and Raquels I did not feel the pressure to catch my dinner as I usually do.

The afternoon was swimming and siesta time … then dinner and a bonfire … nice day overall.

Day 5: Again woke up early to morning fog (never had this before … see the photos) and took the boat out (1st pull again!) and some shore fishing (from the town to la gringa) for a couple of hours. Again, nothing of note … only some bottom fish.

After a couple of hours it was back to the hotel for a swim and breaking of camp … and heading north.

The trip north was uneventful (about 6 to 7 hours to the border … with 1 stop for tacos in San Quintin … white shack on the HW 1 with only pescado and camarone tacos … best in all of Mexico … mandatory stop for me on ALL my trips in both directions. The quality has never degraded). Only question at the border was “is your dog a US citizen?”

Overall a successful trip. My criteria are (not necessarily in order of importance):

1) No car problems
2) Get on the water
3) Enjoy the scenery
4) Eat good food
5) Change of pace
6) Change of environment

preston - 6-26-2007 at 02:55 PM

Help!

How do I post photos? I have about 20 I want to post.

Thanks,

Preston

David K - 6-26-2007 at 02:55 PM

Great report... Thank you!!!

PS, the Chapala restuarant: was it the one across from the Gonzaga road, or the one a half mile south?

David K - 6-26-2007 at 03:00 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by preston
Help!

How do I post photos? I have about 20 I want to post.

Thanks,

Preston


Here you go (this is on the Baja Photo Gallery Forum):

http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=24603

preston - 6-26-2007 at 03:00 PM

Chapala restaurant was right across the road from the Gonzaga road intersection. We just stopped for a soda, but the lady was so nice ... we decided to eat.

preston - 6-26-2007 at 03:41 PM

Photos tomorrow ... I'm out of time tonight.

Preston

Packoderm - 6-26-2007 at 07:17 PM

Thank you for the trip report. I'm looking forward to the photos.

vacaenbaja - 6-26-2007 at 07:37 PM

Hey did you happen to see about three guys with a pickup
cartopping a kayak and towing an aluminum gregor boat
while at Raquel and Larrys?

Baja_Girl - 6-26-2007 at 08:13 PM

Hey, Preston, I'm heading in that direction soon...it took 5 hours from SF to Gonzaga? Just slow because of the road, or did the doggie and son need time out of the car?


Hmmm, anyone know how long it would take on a Sunday to go from SF to Guerrero Negro via Gonzaga? Can I do it in 10 hours, mas o menos?

gracias.

Roberto - 6-26-2007 at 08:20 PM

What vehicle. What's experience level "in the dirt"? What's the tolerance for getting bounced around? How good of a spare will you have?

honda tom - 6-26-2007 at 09:39 PM

baja girl.... the road from san felipe to gonzaga is...... 2 hours on a desert motorcycle with no stops..... 3 hours in a very well built big tired vehicle that you dont mind abusing..... 4 hours in a well built truck safely..... and 5 hours in most anything safely. add another 1-1.5 hours to hwy 1. then add 1.5 hours to Guerrero Negro.

My opinion... 7 hours if you really gotta make it. 8 hours means you stopped for lunch.

capt. mike - 6-27-2007 at 04:40 AM

what's the time penalty to go to Gonzaga via HW 1 and cocos corner instead of from SF?
just curious.
and assumes starting point is SD area, crossing at TJ.

i can't imaging 4-5 hours to go, what? 75 miles or so? and get beat up all the way?
i think i'd go on the pavement around cocos each time.

Cypress - 6-27-2007 at 04:50 AM

preston, Thanks for the report, looking foreward to the pictures.:D

Baja_Girl - 6-27-2007 at 05:54 AM

I bought a 4WD 4Runner - solid but older car that can be beat up, but still must get me to Loreto...I am safety-minded, but adventurous, and I will have a spare, a satillite phone, tools, oil, spare parts, etc.

And the fun will be taking it slow...so, 8 - 9 hours sounds perfect!

thanks guys...all suggestions, comments, welcome - and Preston, can't wait for the photos!!!

surfer jim - 6-27-2007 at 06:28 AM

Take some spare shock absorbers and you will do fine.....:O

preston - 6-27-2007 at 08:17 AM

Let me see if I can handle the questions:

1) Yes, I met 3 guys with Gregor boat and kayak. When I left they were headed to Guarda for scuba diving. They hired a panga driver to take them for an overnight trip. Names were Duane, Cesar and ???

2) I would add 1 hour truck driving time to Honda Tom's estimates IN MY OPINION. The dog and son did not slow me down ... just made it less pleasant. I was taking the side roads as much as possible to find "clean tracks". I was getting bounced around pretty bad. I will not take this route aain until I get a new/bigger truck (or until 6 months from now when I will forget how bad the trip was).

3) My explorer had plenty of clearance ... the road is just terrible. Remember, my car was pretty full (you will see in the coming photos).

Baja1.JPG - 45kB

preston - 6-27-2007 at 08:19 AM

stopping on sf-gonz

baja2.JPG - 48kB

preston - 6-27-2007 at 08:25 AM

dog break

preston - 6-27-2007 at 08:34 AM

dog break - again

preston - 6-27-2007 at 08:37 AM

dog break - again II

baja3.JPG - 22kB

preston - 6-27-2007 at 08:40 AM

huerfanito

baja4.JPG - 43kB

preston - 6-27-2007 at 08:42 AM

Dog swimming at Rancho Grande

baja5.JPG - 29kB

preston - 6-27-2007 at 08:43 AM

Son and Dog

baja6.JPG - 39kB

preston - 6-27-2007 at 08:43 AM

stuck in the sand at rancho grande. don't get too close to the palapas unless you have 4wd

woody with a view - 6-27-2007 at 08:46 AM

maybe it's just me, but the kid and the dog look pretty happy.....to be off the road!!!:lol::lol:

preston - 6-27-2007 at 08:48 AM

again

baja7.JPG - 47kB

preston - 6-27-2007 at 08:50 AM

again

baja7.JPG - 47kB

preston - 6-27-2007 at 08:51 AM

again

baja8.JPG - 29kB

preston - 6-27-2007 at 08:51 AM

more

baja9.JPG - 39kB

preston - 6-27-2007 at 08:52 AM

more

baja10.JPG - 22kB

preston - 6-27-2007 at 08:53 AM

needlefish

baja11.JPG - 33kB

preston - 6-27-2007 at 08:55 AM

BOLA on my way to the islands

baja12.JPG - 28kB

preston - 6-27-2007 at 08:56 AM

exploring the islands

baja13.JPG - 31kB

preston - 6-27-2007 at 08:57 AM

trying to use the bottom fish as bait

baja14.JPG - 33kB

David K - 6-27-2007 at 08:58 AM

Great stuff Preston... Thank you!!

preston - 6-27-2007 at 08:58 AM

more island exploration

baja15.JPG - 43kB

preston - 6-27-2007 at 09:00 AM

my son using the scope at L&R

baja16.JPG - 18kB

preston - 6-27-2007 at 09:01 AM

my son the photographer

baja17.JPG - 19kB

preston - 6-27-2007 at 09:02 AM

bonfire at L&R

baja18.JPG - 14kB

preston - 6-27-2007 at 09:03 AM

foggy sunrise at BOLA

baja19.JPG - 13kB

preston - 6-27-2007 at 09:04 AM

fog burning off

baja20.JPG - 19kB

preston - 6-27-2007 at 09:05 AM

dinner at alfonsinas

baja21.JPG - 36kB

preston - 6-27-2007 at 09:11 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by capt. mike
what's the time penalty to go to Gonzaga via HW 1 and cocos corner instead of from SF?
just curious.
and assumes starting point is SD area, crossing at TJ.

i can't imaging 4-5 hours to go, what? 75 miles or so? and get beat up all the way?
i think i'd go on the pavement around cocos each time.


My calculations are 8-9 hrs via SF and maybe 9-10 hrs via HW1. But I also hate the traffic going through ensenada and SQ ... but the Puertecitos-Gonzaga road!?!?!

David K - 6-27-2007 at 09:11 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by Baja_Girl
Hey, Preston, I'm heading in that direction soon...it took 5 hours from SF to Gonzaga? Just slow because of the road, or did the doggie and son need time out of the car?


Hmmm, anyone know how long it would take on a Sunday to go from SF to Guerrero Negro via Gonzaga? Can I do it in 10 hours, mas o menos?

gracias.


I have traveled this road often since it was built in 1985/6 and the older 4WD road it replaced, it is in the worse shape starting 8 miles south of Puertecitos to Gonzaga Bay...

San Felipe to Puertecitos is well paved, but not a high speed highway due to sudden, stupid engineered dips across arroyos. Speed limit is signed 40 kph (25 mph)! So the 55 mile road to Puertecitos will take you 1.5 hours, or more if you do the speed limit.

Puertecitos to Gonzaga is about 50 miles, with 42 being pretty slow due to the rocks and washed away base dirt exposing the rock base. 2WD is passable, but low cars should avoid... allow 3-4 hours.

Gonzaga to Hwy. 1 is in better shape (36 miles) and will take an hour, or more if you stop at Coco's Corner.

Capt. Mike, it is the bad roads of Baja that not only made it famous, but gives it character, keeps out the rif-raf, and has preserved it from being over-developed this long. You can fly into Gonzaga as there are three airports there still open, afterall.

preston - 6-27-2007 at 09:13 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by woody in ob
maybe it's just me, but the kid and the dog look pretty happy.....to be off the road!!!:lol::lol:


Your right! for the kids and the dogs ... it's the destination, not the journey. I was the same way when I was young.

David K - 6-27-2007 at 09:14 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by preston
Quote:
Originally posted by capt. mike
what's the time penalty to go to Gonzaga via HW 1 and cocos corner instead of from SF?
just curious.
and assumes starting point is SD area, crossing at TJ.

i can't imaging 4-5 hours to go, what? 75 miles or so? and get beat up all the way?
i think i'd go on the pavement around cocos each time.


My calculations are 8-9 hrs via SF and maybe 9-10 hrs via HW1. But I also hate the traffic going through ensenada and SQ ... but the Puertecitos-Gonzaga road!?!?!


San Diego to Gonzaga Bay via Hwy. 1 is 8 hours.

San Diego to Gonzaga Bay via Hwy. 5 is 10 hours.

preston - 6-27-2007 at 09:18 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by David K
Quote:
Originally posted by Baja_Girl
Hey, Preston, I'm heading in that direction soon...it took 5 hours from SF to Gonzaga? Just slow because of the road, or did the doggie and son need time out of the car?


Hmmm, anyone know how long it would take on a Sunday to go from SF to Guerrero Negro via Gonzaga? Can I do it in 10 hours, mas o menos?

gracias.


I have traveled this road often since it was built in 1985/6 and the older 4WD road it replaced, it is in the worse shape starting 8 miles south of Puertecitos to Gonzaga Bay...

San Felipe to Puertecitos is well paved, but not a high speed highway due to sudden, stupid engineered dips across arroyos. Speed limit is signed 40 kph (25 mph)! So the 55 mile road to Puertecitos will take you 1.5 hours, or more if you do the speed limit.

Puertecitos to Gonzaga is about 50 miles, with 42 being pretty slow due to the rocks and washed away base dirt exposing the rock base. 2WD is passable, but low cars should avoid... allow 3-4 hours.

Gonzaga to Hwy. 1 is in better shape (36 miles) and will take an hour, or more if you stop at Coco's Corner.

Capt. Mike, it is the bad roads of Baja that not only made it famous, but gives it character, keeps out the rif-raf, and has preserved it from being over-developed this long. You can fly into Gonzaga as there are three airports there still open, afterall.


David: agree completely with your analysis and thoughts. In spite of my complaining about the road ... I hope (and pray) they will never pave it (or at least until I pass away).

David K - 6-27-2007 at 09:20 AM

You are a good man Preston!;D

Baja_Girl - 6-27-2007 at 09:50 AM

How Fun!!! Its exactly what I had hoped for!!! Nasty old rocky roads!!! Yippee!!! Thanks, guys, you are so way-cool and really helpful...I promise to post photos so you can laugh all the way with me.
xoxoxoxox
tu amiga siempre
lisa marie

vacaenbaja - 6-27-2007 at 12:56 PM

Yes that was them Peston, the other gentlemans name is Gino. Well great
to hear that they did make it out to overnight at the island. Gino is the diver of the group. They should be back real soon with lots to tell. I wonder if they ever made it out to San Francisquito as planned?
Thanks for the response.

preston - 6-27-2007 at 01:21 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by vacaenbaja
Yes that was them Peston, the other gentlemans name is Gino. Well great
to hear that they did make it out to overnight at the island. Gino is the diver of the group. They should be back real soon with lots to tell. I wonder if they ever made it out to San Francisquito as planned?
Thanks for the response.


They did not mention san francisquito .. and I did talk to them quite a bit about diving, etc.

BOLA to Border Travel Time??

Yakfishing - 6-27-2007 at 03:37 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by preston


The trip north was uneventful (about 6 to 7 hours to the border … with 1 stop for tacos in San Quintin …


Hey Preston,
Great report and photos!

What shortcut do you take?
It takes me about 10 hours to get to the border from BOLA.

preston - 6-27-2007 at 04:30 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Yakfishing
Quote:
Originally posted by preston


The trip north was uneventful (about 6 to 7 hours to the border … with 1 stop for tacos in San Quintin …


Hey Preston,
Great report and photos!

What shortcut do you take?
It takes me about 10 hours to get to the border from BOLA.


Sorry ... I did a recalculation and it was 7.5 to 8 hours to the border. There was very little traffic (even through SQ) and was never stuck behind a truck climbing a hill so I was moving well pretty much all the time. There was only one military stop and he waved us right through (no inspection). This was probobly as fast as I have done it. I pretty much keep it at 70 MPH when I can. More typical for me is probobly 8 to 9 hours (but I don't keep statistics).

David K - 6-27-2007 at 07:07 PM

Then there's the 1-3 hour border line to add to the 8 hour drive!

Bobbuzz - 6-27-2007 at 08:23 PM

I just did this route two weeks ago (1st timer) and I really liked it. Yeah the road is slow and rocky but it just gives you more time to see the sites.
Be sure to watch out for the arrow head shaped rocks standing on edge in the road. They look like they will easily puncture a tire.
Not sure how many hours it took us to go from Puertocitos to Gonzaga we stopped near Isla Lobos and camped for one night.
We were towing a 15' aluminum boat so we were a little slower in some areas.
Came out through Chapala then on to San Quintin.
Can't wait to go back.

The Pemex in Gonzaga was out of gas when we were there (6/11-14) be sure to plan for that.
Diesel was available at the Rancho Grande store.

capt. mike - 6-28-2007 at 03:22 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by David K
Then there's the 1-3 hour border line to add to the 8 hour drive!



plus "Capt. Mike, it is the bad roads of Baja that not only made it famous, but gives it character, keeps out the rif-raf, and has preserved it from being over-developed this long. You can fly into Gonzaga as there are three airports there still open, afterall. "

yur right DK....what WAS i thinking??!!

an 8 hour drive i can handle if i have a week or 2.:lol:

but a 1-3 hour wait at a border??:no:
i don't know how you put up with it.

guess i'll keep drinking Red Bull and go with the wings...:bounce:

capt. mike - 6-17-2008 at 05:06 PM

hola Preston - got your email...........do a trip when you can but do you know how HOT it is there now??!!
it was 113 today in phx - san felipe just as bad. yikes - give me the pacific bro!! and PSFO or Gonzaga??
fuggedaboutit :(

David K - 6-17-2008 at 05:53 PM

Almost a year between the above two posts Cap. Mike!?

Ken Cooke - 6-17-2008 at 09:21 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by preston
My car is a ’97 Ford Explorer with 114K miles. Has never failed me yet! It will be my Baja car until it dies in Baja (where I will leave it to some local who will probably get another 50K miles out of it).


My friend Chris has two of these - a 2WD lowrider, and a 4WD rock crawler. Here's the proof:

http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=31905

capt. mike - 6-18-2008 at 07:12 AM

yeah - we are currently discussing a flight for him. mainly by PM and email.

baitcast - 6-18-2008 at 08:10 AM

Aha another porta-bote owner,used a 14' tin boat for many years but as I got much older it got much heavyer:lol: so I went smaller,12' porta-bote,the last 5 or 6 years,been everywhere in that thing,not recommended:lol:,my only b-tch is the wet ride in a breeze and landing a larger fish,I,m sure you know about this:biggrin:
Rob