BajaNomad

Trip Report to BOLA and Asuncion

Santiago - 8-9-2007 at 11:00 AM

August 2007 trip to Bahia de los Angeles and Bahia Asuncion

This was a very different trip for me. Instead of the normal fishing trip with my longtime buddy, Andy, I was going to look at some work that was recently done to our fishing cabin at Camp Gecko and order some additional work. I was very surprised when Shirley, my wife, wanted to come along. To Bahia de los Angeles. In August. I explained that it would be hot and humid but she insisted on going as she had the whole summer off work and had never been there before – in fact had only been to Cabo 6 years ago. 10 days later we had the boat and truck packed with 2 twin bed sets, a 2000 watt generator, a rebuilt propane fridge/freeze and a bunch of fans to help with sleeping.

Day 1: left the Sacramento area about 10:30am and slept in Chula Vista that night. Crossed the border at 6:30am, got our FMTs but had to get them at the walk through gate as the office next to the ‘declare’ lane does not open until later in the morning. Got the luz verde and was so relieved that I immediately turned right instead of going up the overpass and then making the next right. First trip with my little-bit-nervous wife and I make a wrong turn in Tijuana. Yikes. I cross a busy street, heading uphill in a small industrial area and immediately pick up a 2 cops on my tail. They follow me until I flip a U-turn to get back to the toll road and he lights me up. My wife is the model of calmness while I am beside myself as I had never been stopped by the police before. I try to remember the whole Fred Hoctor bit (Sindicura and all that) as I step out to greet my captors. Young cop, old cop step out, walk up and say that I can not make a u-turn there (I had to agree it was pretty bone-head). I lamely explain that I missed my turn to the toll road and they shrug and say still no u-turn. The old cop says that my trailer lights don’t work but when I flip them on everything is ‘ok’. He shrugs again. Young cop asks for my drivers license and registration and then asks what I do for a living???? Why that has anything to do with anything I don’t know but I tell him I don’t work. Young cop is clearly nervous and old cop looks agitated; old cop walks up and says that the fine downtown is $80 but that I can pay them $60. I tell him I don’t think the fine is $80 and that I will pay at the station. Old cop looks incredulous; “downtown?” he says. I say “yes”. I ask about the credit card machine they are suppose to carry but they say only certain officers have them and I then say that I can mail the payment with the ticket when I get back home but the say ‘no’. They keep my license and registration, ask me to follow them and off we go. About a 10 block ride to the station where they wave me over to a big parking space and have me walk up to their car where they hand me my license, registration and ticket and tell me the station is around the corner. I go and pay my fine of $729 pesos (fines are posted the window), get directions to the toll road and get the heck out of there. The entire procedure took 35 minutes and was pretty painless.
Anyway, we made Baja Cactus by evening.

Day 2: Nothing of note, just a travel and set up day at Gecko. Did get to re-live the first time experience of the boojums, Catavina bolder field and that last rise where all the island of Bahia de los Angeles are floating on the water through Shirley’s eyes. Kinda neat. The flip side, of course, is I get to re-live the shock of seeing for the first time what most of us who have gone many times have relegated to the “nothing we can do about it” file.

Day 3: Launched at Gecko about 7:00am, went past Paulina’s place and honked and spent the next 4 or 5 hours showing Shirley the entire bay from Animas to Guadalupe. Had an interesting experience on the white sand beach at the southern lip of Guadalupe where we watched a coyote on the beach, facing the water with it front paws just in the water and then pounce as if it was trying to catch something. Anyone else over see this behavior? Water was flat calm all day and we saw lots of whales and dolphin. Once again proved that I can not find whale sharks when they are in. We found no water over 80 degrees other than the south bay. Maybe another few weeks before dorado. Weather was low to mid 90s and about 55% humidity. OK if you’re not moving but tough if you’re trying to get any work done. Had dinner at El Sol, no one else around.

Day 4: Pack up and head to Bahia Asuncion to get out of the humidity and check out Juan and Shari’s place. Showed FMTs at the state line, paid out 20 pesos, for what reason I haven’t a clue, and lunched at Maramillas (spell check). Probably the best meal we bought all trip; just a couple of salads but very fresh and well done. The other diners were also very happy with their lunches. Made Asuncion in about 2.5 hours. For those who have not made this trip: the last 10 miles of the road from Vizcaino to the turnoff has lots of bad pot holes – the kind that are hard to see until you hit them. The road to Asuncion is newly paved for about 8 miles but it was not open as of yet. Maybe in a week or so. Towing a boat, it took us about 60 minutes to go the 25 miles of dirt road into Asuncion; 30 minutes the first 8 miles and 30 minutes the rest. Aired down to 22# for the dirt portion. By the way, near town is a fork – follow the power lines (left fork) as it is the safer of the 2 (per Shari). We made the beach house about 4 pm and spent the next 2 hours with Shari and Juan killing a couple of bottles of Pinot Grigio and telling lies. Pull the tarp off the boat, Juan runs his hands over the gunnels, casts an experienced and careful eye, nods approval and we make a date to go out on my boat the next day to get a feel for the place. Cool – I pass the first test. Dined at ‘the’ taco stand and had tacos relleno – first for me but I really liked them. Shirley got the taco lady to smile which we understood to be no small feat.

Day 5: Juan shows up about 8:00 and says for me to meet him at his house in 45 minutes – the tide will be in enough to launch. Shari packs a lunch, hands them to me with about 3 TKT and I just blanch. I mean really, how can a confirmed Pacifico drinker even allow a TKT anywhere close to his boat? I won’t even park under a Tecate sign. I suck it up and soon we are on the water heading for Isla San Roque in a thick fog. Juan is behind me yelling out the headings to steer to as I marvel at the “Mexican GPS” we have heard so much about. I take a quick peek behind me and Juan is checking his hand held GPS for corrective headings………
The next 3 or 4 hours was a thing of beauty – to watch a man, who is completely at home and intimate with his home water, guide you to the exact spots within a few yards of rocks and surf, set anchor and then tell you where to cast as you bring in calico after calico is amazing, thrilling and more than a little bit humbling. My knowledge of my home water ain’t even close.
If you go to Asuncion, you must spend and day on the water with Juan – even if you don’t fish you will find that the dollars spent seeing the sea through his ojos will be the best dollars you will spend.

Day 6: We drink our coffee to the rising sun over the bay and decide to drive to San Roque to check out the area. On the way we stop in at Juan and Shari’s place and they invite us dinner later in the afternoon. At San Roque we meet SkipJack Joe who is camped at the Juan’s San Roque cabin and we have a great chat regarding fishing, boats, equipment and the sea and all that. Nice to meet other Nomads on out of the way beaches and get faces to names. As an aside, we met a very miserable cuss (Don or Dan, I think) who was cleaning fish on the beach, lives in Abreojos, was camped at San Roque, has a yellow aluminum boat that he launches with a quad. This jerk would not even answer the simplest question regarding launching as if this spot was his discovery and he would share with no one. It was all I could do to keep Shirley from going back and kicking his sorry butt; which, by the way, she could easily do. She works out.
We finish the day at Juan and Shari’s having dinner with Juan’s sister and her family – great times were had by all. It was fun discussing the finer points of baseball and steroid use (hand-in-hand now-a-days) thru the language barrier. Juan’s brother-in-law likes Pacifico which threw the odds to my favor but also depleted my stock – no bother – well worth the trash talking. Settled up with Shari on all expenses and hit the sack.

Day 7: Made the dirt road in 1 hour, got out to air up for the pavement and watch a boat trailer tire (Goodyear Marathons) slowly go flat. Caught a rock just an inch above the rim and a small slit is bubbling air. Takes an hour to air up 6 tires (with Via-air no less) and to change the boat tire. By the way, those ‘roll-up’ jacks just do not work in dirt – had to dig out the truck’s jack to change the tire. Gonna go back to the good old hydraulic from here on out. Also made a mental note to get that stuff to put on the lug nuts – Jesus Alous – those buggers are hard to get off after a couple of dozen launches in salt water. Had lunch at the first spot on the right in Guerrero Negro but in all honesty wouldn’t recommend it. Spent the night in maybe the best motel in all of Baja in San Quintin – La Villa de San Quintin. Very new, clean, TV(half Spanish/English), internet is each room, ample and secure parking, pretty good restaurant and only $38/night. Also has a calico guard kitty.

Day 8: At Ensenada we took Mex 3 through the Valle Guadalupe and ended up tasting wine at three wineries. The ‘best’ was at Don Juan in Francisco Zarco, only because we ended up with a private tasting with the winemaker for 45 minutes. Nice little spot. L.A. Cetto is pretty impressive also. Was not impressed with Domecq, although maybe it was just what they were pouring that day. Border crossing at Tecate was about 30 minutes and no hassle.

Highly recommend the trip to Bahia Asuncion and to visit with Juan and Shari.

Hook - 8-9-2007 at 11:24 AM

Thanks for the report, Santiago. Good to hear an estimate on the drive times in to Asuncion. What were the daytime highs and o/n lows around Asuncion, do you think? I really want to get out there before November, if possible.

You definitely ARE a baseball fan, if you take the name of Jesus Alou in vain?:lol:

Use the corrosion resistant wheel bearing grease on the lugs; it seems to work better than the Permatex anti-seize stuff. I usually give each lug a half spin and retighten before I leave so I dont find out how hard they are while on the road with no shoulder.

Oh yeah...........have you checked out my post about some 10 inch, multi-power fans that a buddy of mine found at Walmart? Might be the ticket for you.

[Edited on 8-9-2007 by Hook]

Minnow - 8-9-2007 at 11:30 AM

Great report. I also loosen and re-tighten the lugs on my trailer before each trip. Saves lots of hassle on the road. One day I hope to meet Juan and Shari, not Skipjack though.:O

Bajaboy - 8-9-2007 at 11:34 AM

Hey Santiago-

Greatly enjoyed the report. Thanks for sharing your adventure with us.

zac

Cypress - 8-9-2007 at 11:40 AM

Santiago Thanks for the report.:yes:

Santiago - 8-9-2007 at 01:36 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Hook
What were the daytime highs and o/n lows around Asuncion, do you think?
Low to mid 70s - very nice.

You definitely ARE a baseball fan, if you take the name of Jesus Alou in vain?
je,je Not many people get that one.

Oh yeah...........have you checked out my post about some 10 inch, multi-power fans that a buddy of mine found at Walmart? Might be the ticket for you.
Yes - we got the very same fan - works very well.

[Edited on 8-9-2007 by Hook]

bajajudy - 8-9-2007 at 01:53 PM

So Shirley loved it? Did you make a Baja believer out of her?
Sounds like a great trip. Thanks for sharing!

CaboRon - 8-9-2007 at 02:58 PM

Thanks for the trip report. Are pics coming later ?

I am curious about the Day 2 entry ..... what is the thing you see that you can do nothing about.
:?:
-CaboRon

Yakfishing - 8-9-2007 at 03:16 PM

Santiago,
Nice report, sounds like you had a great time.
I'm headed to BOLA next month, so we hope to find the whale sharks then.
I'll also be fishing from my kayak and maybe hire a panga for a day to chase the YT and dorado.

I really want to go to Bahia Asuncion, but my girlfriend would rather swim in the SOC than in the (cold) Pacific. Any I dea what the water temps were at Asuncion?

Joe O.

David K - 8-9-2007 at 04:52 PM

Great report Santiago! Shari and Juan are all that they seem to be and more...

Yakfishing... the beaches are beautiful on the Pacific, but the Sea of Cortez just can't be beat for a swim! Maybe bring a wet suit?

Bajaboy - 8-9-2007 at 04:55 PM

I swam in Asuncion a few weeks ago and would guess the water to be in the low to mid 60s. The water will gradually start to warm up now and into October probably reaching the low 70s.

Zac

Paulina - 8-9-2007 at 05:23 PM

Santiago,

Doc had told us that you would be bringing your wife down for the first time, and like you we thought, in August???? The weather was perfect and the water very glassy that day you cruised by our place. I commented that your wife must have brought those conditions with her as first timer luck!Thank her for us. We launched our panga right after you passed by and we headed for the whale sharks.

Don't know why you didn't see any of the whale sharks, as there were at least 5 down your way. We have loads of photos that I will post when we get back stateside. I have one photo that shows three at one time. Maybe it was the time of day you went looking for them. We found it best to find them between 8:30 and 9:30 am.

Glad you had a good trip and that your wife enjoyed her time as well. Next time stop in for a cold drink.

P<*)))><

DianaT - 8-10-2007 at 01:43 PM

Santiago, sure glad you enjoyed Bahia Asuncion and your warning about the road from Vizcaino should be in bold print. They keep filling the potholes outside of town, but especially over the salt flat areas, those torn up parts can sneak up on you.

I am still wondering if they are going to allow us to drive on the completed part of the new road any time soon---some of those soft areas a long side of the road get real deep!. Right after the rest of the road is graded, it is great.

Quote:
Originally posted by Minnow
One day I hope to meet Juan and Shari, not Skipjack though.:O


Sure hope you are joking. We just had the pleasure of meeting Skipjack here in Bahia Asuncion and are looking forward to his future visits. He and his son are really nice people. I do hope that was a joke.

Diane

shari - 8-13-2007 at 09:07 AM

Mil gracias amigo for your kind words AND the great wine! We miss you guys and just to let ya know...the bees are history...I guess they were just sucking the nectar off those blooms. Gee too bad those nice quad guys didn't make it to our place:lol: NOw, a note on the water temps...the water is colder than usual at the moment but will change any day now...it changes daily and around mid August it finally gets warm...like from one day to the next! So we are all anxious for it to warm up at any time now then it gets to around 75-80 for all late august, sept., oct. and november and starts to cool a bit but still nice and swimable for december and january. I'm so glad you liked it here and we look forward to seeing you again soon.

Martyman - 8-13-2007 at 09:12 AM

How did the work that was done look at your place in Gecko?

miserable cuss

Capt. George - 8-13-2007 at 01:08 PM

Santiago----This is the miserable cuss you ran into cleaning fish at san roque on day 6 of your trip. As soon as you and your wife got out of the truck I just had to laugh. Did you buy the entire LL Bean catalog? I could tell launching there was way beyond your ability. Your lucky, you caught me on a good day. The next time you want to diss someone don't hide behind the internet. Shirley--wanna try and kick my butt? Come on down sweetheart.

Miserable cuss again

Capt. George - 8-13-2007 at 01:11 PM

By the way I am not associated with captain george. He is a nice man.

DianaT - 8-13-2007 at 01:25 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Capt. George
By the way I am not associated with captain george. He is a nice man.


If you are who I believe you are, and you, your dog, your friend, and his dog all came by to say hello, we were happy to see you.:spingrin::spingrin:

Diane and John

Minnow - 8-13-2007 at 01:31 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by jdtrotter
Santiago, sure glad you enjoyed Bahia Asuncion and your warning about the road from Vizcaino should be in bold print. They keep filling the potholes outside of town, but especially over the salt flat areas, those torn up parts can sneak up on you.

I am still wondering if they are going to allow us to drive on the completed part of the new road any time soon---some of those soft areas a long side of the road get real deep!. Right after the rest of the road is graded, it is great.

Quote:
Originally posted by Minnow
One day I hope to meet Juan and Shari, not Skipjack though.:O


Sure hope you are joking. We just had the pleasure of meeting Skipjack here in Bahia Asuncion and are looking forward to his future visits. He and his son are really nice people. I do hope that was a joke.

Diane


I was not joking. I was hoping, the miserable SOB, was back in the states, and could defend himself. :lol:

Seems, he not so miserable, now that he is in BAJA. Good on you, Skipjack.:!:

DianaT - 8-13-2007 at 01:39 PM

Quote:


I was not joking. I was hoping, the miserable SOB, was back in the states, and could defend himself. :lol:

Seems, he not so miserable, now that he is in BAJA. Good on you, Skipjack.:!:


Maybe it is Baja, but we took an immediately liking to him---in fact invited him and his son to stay with us next time if they care to do so.

Diane and John

Minnow - 8-13-2007 at 01:42 PM

Man, He's gonna love that.:bounce: Nothin like internet access in baja.:spingrin:

Bajalover - 8-13-2007 at 04:22 PM

Great trip report. The day by day happenings really lay out a vivid picture in between the ears. Next time it's Baja time (October - April) will have to leave the Coors Can parked at BOLA and head over to Shari and Juan's place. They sound like great people. Again fantastic report, it was refreshing to read it. :O:tumble::tumble:

4baja - 8-13-2007 at 07:48 PM

thanks jim for the report, anything on the fishing in bola? looks like ill be towing my boat down again next month for do-dos and yellows, only hope the trip is as good as the last but then again i am in baja.:coolup:

shari - 8-14-2007 at 08:38 AM

So uh, whoever Mr.Miserable Cuss is..uh tell me why exactly would I wanna kick your butt??? did I miss something here? Ya know I find it facinating how rude men from the united states are to each other...it is so embarassing when you dis each other and treat each other so badly here in baja. It really does bother me when people not from here come here and then treat others who come here like crap...why???? Santiago happened to be a very nice, generous, concientious baja traveller who happened to have a nice wardrobe.....and deserved better treatment....it was his first time in San Roque and was at least man enough to ask for some advice.

Diver - 8-14-2007 at 08:52 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by shari
why exactly would I wanna kick your butt??? did I miss something here?


Oops; He said "Shirley" not Shari.

You are right though, all this macho hoo-ha is, how shall I say ......... but then, that would be rude.


.

Minnow - 8-14-2007 at 08:54 AM

Shari, It's the "I was here before you" mentality. Like somehow you are invading their space. It goes the other way too. If you offer advice to a new person who has not asked, they will often look at you sideways and not say a word. Not that I would ever do that. I have written on this subject before. It is too bad, but it is what it is. :lol:

Once again, great report Santiago.

Iflyfish - 8-15-2007 at 09:04 AM

I once read a study on how bank tellers will remember you if your fingers happen to touch theirs. The teller may deal with hundreds of people in a day, but if you happen to touch, you will be the one they remember.

I read another study that looked at healing rates in a doctors office. The doc hired a consultant when healing rates sky rocketed. People were healing slower and infections were rampant, why? The consultant questioned everyone in the office and found that they had hired a new receptionist. The patients said "the old receptionist was so nice. She would always great us by name and ask how we were doing. She seemed to really care about me as a person. I miss her. The new receptionist is curt and doesn't give me the time of day." The doc refilled the position with a compassionate person and the healing rates returned to normal.

There is a real reason that most of us feel good around smiling, friendly people and this is particularly so in Mexico where the pursuit of good feelings is the norm.

Abrazos Forte Amigos e Amigas

Avia Bien

These are very healthy sentiments.

Iflyfish

shari - 8-15-2007 at 09:12 AM

OOOPS once again...weird how I clearly read my name in the butt kicker bit...maybe subconciously I DO want to kick his butt???:?: but I'll leave that to Shirley and I know she can do it!

Hook - 8-15-2007 at 09:56 AM

This is just the strangest capper to an otherwise excellent trip report that I can ever recall seeing on Nomads.

Clearly, message boards leave much to be desired as a complete communications tool. Information, yes; communication, so-so.........

Capt. George - 8-15-2007 at 10:53 AM

coo-coo coo-coo coo-coo