Tacoma: (rear) Air Bags & Shocks Installed (in 2007)!

The installation was performed this past Saturday at Off Road Warehouse in Escondido and yesterday (Sunday) Baja Angel and I drove out to Ocotillo Wells (ORV park in the desert) to test it out!!!

To set up the reason for this if you hadn't read any of my previous comments...

I obtained my new 2005 Tacoma Double Cab (4 door, 4WD, TRD package) just over 2 years ago (Aug., '05) after 5 years of wonderful performance with a 2001 Extra Cab Tacoma (2 door, 4WD, TRD package).

The '01 was perfect, needed no mods, and never broke down "Oh, what a feeling"

The '05 is the first year of the larger size Tacoma, plus I got a four door... which is also heavier than a 2 door.

I soon discovered that with passengers in the back seat or a load in the bed, the suspension would bottom out hitting bumps at any kind of speed...

I suspected that the same suspension (springs and shocks) was used on this heavier '05 as was on my '01... looked the same. In other words the springs were not stiff enough for the added weight of the bigger style Tacoma, but were fine with my '01.

After listening to advice for the past year, I was narrowing down the course of action to either Hellwig overload springs (which keep a soft ride until a load is added) or air helper springs (air bags) made by Firestone, called Ride-Rite.

The salesman at Off Road Warehouse (Elex) was very familiar with my problem and recommended the Ride-Rites and Bilstein 5100 shocks, which are the next level up in shocks from the Bilsteins that Toyota uses on the TRD equiped Tacomas.

The shocks were installed a couple weeks ago, and I noticed a better ride already... They were inexpensive and bolt right in where the original shocks came out. The Bilstein shocks were made for Tacomas and designed for use with up to a 2.5" lift. Part # BS-BE5-C476-H0 at $84.95 each, plus $42.00 installation for both shocks.

The air bags arrived (special order) last week and were installed Saturday... $530 for both, icl. the kit and installation.

The total for all parts and installation with tax: $801.38

The good news:

We put three ice chests (2 filled with water, 1 with ice and drinks) and a 5 gallon filled water bottle in the bed to simulate a load and drove to Ocotillo Wells... I was amazed at how much better my truck rode, at speed over bumps and ruts... no more bottoming out!

This was at 15 PSI, where Off Road Warehouse set the airbags to... The range is 5-100 PSI (never exceed 90, Elex said)... The truck is about an inch higher at 15 PSI and did great... To change the pressure, the fill valves are on each side of the license plate.

Now, time will tell how it does in the long haul... I will keep you informed!

Some photos...

First stop, Devil's Slide...

[Edited on 9-29-2010 by David K]

New Bilstein and air bag... left side

The other side

I am happy!!!

The Tacoma is happy!!!

OK David, nice upgrade. Now, why don't you just take the first two weeks in October off and join us on our trek to Baja Sur! You have the power to do it!
Bob H

[Edited on 9-25-2007 by Bob H]

Air bag upgrade!

Hi David

I did the same mod to my K1500, thru the years it has sagged in the rear. Added the Firestone bags and also added the remote air compressor for added flexablity. Nice to be able to add just the right amount or reduce the pressure for a good ride. Have yet to add a fitting for airing tires, but would not be a problem.

A friend put some Firestone air bags on his 2007 Tacoma and he seems to like it; it survived our last Baja trip too, in a very loaded down vehicle.

You may want to consider upgrading the bolt hardware though....cheap low grade hardware came with his kit

Grade 5, or greater, as mentioned would be sufficient.
Here are some keys:

Why are they popping out? If the nut is coming loose due to vibrations or other reasons a graded bolt may not help much. On the other hand, if the bolts themselves are failing (e.g. snapping, bending) the graded bolts (get a grade 8) will solve the problem.

I had a problem with a couple of bolts on my hitch coming loose. I found out one morning in Baja just before taking off for the day! Had my travel trailer in tow, too! Would not have been a pretty picture if the remaining ones had come off, as it was, the hitch was hanging 1" lower than it should on the passenger side.

I replaced all the bolts, but I also tack-welded the nuts so that it would never happen again.

P.S. Yes David, those look like cheap carriage bolts from the pictures.

[Edited on 9-25-2007 by Roberto]

Looking at one of the bolts used to install the air bags, it is a Grade 5... other two just below look like Grade 8... That's good!

Carriage Bolts

From one of the installation pages is this photo and picture of the bolts in question


Contacting a bolt store, he said that carriage bolts are either grade 2 or grade 5. The grade 5 have 3 slash marks on the head of the bolt. I beleive I'd use blue lock-tite on the nuts along with a grade 8 hex bolt. I would hesitate to spot weld a bolt in place in this application.

John

The carriage bolts are marked : HKT (and) 307A on the head... What does that signify?

Off Road Warehouse did the installation and guaranteed it... Lock tite was used and I told them the concerns I heard before (bolts breaking, coming loose) and Elex said they were 'professionals at this', not to worry! I told them I want it to be as strong as if it was a Baja racer!

In any case, even if one fails on a trip, it is no worse than before without them... the stock springs are there and I now have bigger shocks... I am not adding an oversize camper or hauling out 'lost mission gold'!

Thanks for the comments and contributions... thats what a discussion board is about! Also, it's nice to see you here Chris!

Something strange

in the 2nd photo. It looks as if the lower bracket is bowed from overtightening. I am sure those are not torqued properly. If you look at the bow then you come to realize that with more fatigue and flexing an overtightened bolt like those may pull apart as the thread weakens the bolt at the shoulder. I would take those cheap channel brackets and throw them away and have someone fashion you some out of 3/4"X 2" solid bar stock. On the top end I would make a bracket to place under the two bolts on the top. I would use 3/16 or 1/4" X1" bar stock. Drill the two 9/16" holes as required for new 1/2" bolts. Replace with hardened machine bolts. All you need is a saw and a drill press. To insure they stay put I would just run a second nut up and cinch it against the primary nut(s). Like so:


[Edited on 9-28-2007 by Sharksbaja]

Actually, it's a vector program. It has various tools similar to Photoshop. I like it because with vector drawings you can manipulate every aspect w/o loss of resolution. Plus you can save as other files for different programs. It's called Drawplus.
I think those brackets are "Takahashi" brand and should be beefed up.

David,

Baja Grande is in November. We could use a capable Toyota on the run, and yours looks ready. Think about it. Pavo inside Mision Sta. Maria???

Do you stilll have your "old" shocks? Wanna let them go for some $ ?

Mine are blowin' mud....

ill have too agree with JD trotter, i had too sets of these air bags and both developed leeks in the baja. i replaced them with add a leafe leafe springs and never had a problem. they just never seemed too hold up too the speeds i was driveing the dirt roads. allso the original bilstein shocks supplied by toyota are junk as i told dave along time ago on our tacomas, i allso replaced them with upgrades. just installed the super leafs on my tundra and they seem too work great, will see on my 7 sister trip in december.

if you want it to break...
bring it to baja

Quote:

Originally posted by Bajaddict Do you stilll have your "old" shocks? Wanna let them go for some $ ? Mine are blowin' mud....

so, after searching and researching i've come back here for an unbiased answer.

last month Bia and i took the tundra down and managed to find some pretty ruff roads along the coast. we did the circuit from the south and out through catavina. i had loaded the truck wrong with the second spare and the coolers loaded last.... needless to say we were bottoming out way too much. on the way out i rearranged the load but all the liquids, ice, and most of the food was gone so the load wasn't the same. so the ? becomes....

will upgrading to the HD Bilsteins be sufficient to stop the pounding or are the bags really a better option?

Quote:

Originally posted by woody in ob so, after searching and researching i've come back here for an unbiased answer.

Daystar Shock Absorber Bump Stops. Get the Black ones as they are set up for a more firm bumper for the shock absorbers. Adjustable shocks like the MX-6 might do the trick. An Add-A-Leaf will give you a more firm ride - is this your daily driver?

For right around $40, I'd do the Daystar bump stops first.

http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/W_poly_bumpstops.htm




[Edited on 5-13-2009 by Ken Cooke]

Quote:

Originally posted by Ken Cooke Quote: Originally posted by woody in ob so, after searching and researching i've come back here for an unbiased answer. Daystar Shock Absorber Bump Stops. Get the Black ones as they are set up for a more firm bumper for the shock absorbers. Adjustable shocks like the MX-6 might do the trick. An Add-A-Leaf will give you a more firm ride - is this your daily driver? For right around $40, I'd do the Daystar bump stops first. http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/W_poly_bumpstops.htm [Edited on 5-13-2009 by Ken Cooke]

YIKES
What on earth are these?
Now I'm no expert, but some of the stuff the after market comes up with is just plain scarry.
As I understand things, springs carry the load and shocks keep the springs from compressing and rebounding violently, slowing their movement for a smooth ride. Without the shocks, the springs would still do the job they are engineered for, just not in a controlled or comfortable manner, and would beat the crap out of you and the vehicle.

If a rig is loaded beyond the rated maximum of the spring, it will run into something, i.e. the frame rail. There is a bump stop solidly mounted there to accept this collision, but the bump stop is not engineered to suffer constant abuse. As it has been explained to me, the rubber or urethane bump will squish completely after just a few slams and will no longer prevent the collision of the spring and frame rail, hence the "bottom out" condition. The first few times it happened, you didn't notice it. Once the bump was compositionally altered by the overload collision, it will no longer do its job.

So with these forces taken into consideration, the idea that the bump can be controlled by the shock shaft and eye mount attachment points with a urethane doughnut on it is rediculous. IMHO shock failure will be soon in the coming.

Davids fix is the only one of 2 as I see it.
Air bag overload "springs" to increase the carrying capacity of the spring and firmer shocks to slow comp and rebo.
Or an add-a-leaf, which will result in stiffer unloaded ride.

I have a pair of overload bags on my F-250 for when I have a big load in my dump trailer. 5 PSI = smooth ride around town and 100 PSI if I need it for a load. Love em!

GSB has an engineered 11, yes that's eleven, leaf pre-runner pack by National controlled by 2 - 2.5" Fox reservoir shocks on each side and bumped by 2" hydraulic / gas charged bump stops, which have a 1.25" solid steel shaft in them. The 5900lb pig can land on 1 rear tire and suck it all up. The springs with travel 16" vertically and go from full droop to completely inverted (straightened out and bent the other direction) at full bump....and it rides like a Caddy. I am continually amazed with I see the dust on the bump stop shaft has been cleaned off all the way to its 1/2" exposed stopping point. The forces to bend those springs that way is hard to imagine.
To conclude, I really don't know what my point is, but I used alot of words, huh?
Just do it!

Quote:

Originally posted by Gadget YIKES What on earth are these? Now I'm no expert, but some of the stuff the after market comes up with is just plain scarry.

I have a Suburban with a 6 inch lift that usually lives in Baja. I've been getting a lot of sway and bottoming out when heavily loaded so decided to go with air bags (shocks, IMO won't do anything for either sway or bottoming out).

I added Firestone F9000 Sleeve Bags. They were great on the paved roads. Eliminated the sway altogether. Really nice ride.

I aired down to about 50 off-road and they popped after 3 hours of medium-hard driving.

I'm interested in those that who say they are using air bags off road, what PSI are you running at and have you popped any?

[Edited on 5-15-2009 by joel]

[Edited on 5-15-2009 by joel]

i've decided on the following:

http://4wheelonline.com/Products.aspx?CategoryId=28129&P...

joel- it looks like your gas tank holding strap is "shiny" and maybe the rubbing against the bag led to the failure. why did you air DOWN while going off road? your picture made my decision to go with the column style instead of the double bag style.

price = $197 + free shipping. my mekanic is gonna install for two hours labor. i told him i want a "tee" fitting to allow me to air UP both sides simultaneously with my high volume portable compressor. his only concern (not the bolts) was the brackets. he has installed these on 2 ford expedition limo's and said the brackets were the weak link, not the bolts. we shall see.

i'm don't plan on having 10-15 drunk's going to prom in the back, so i think i'm gonna be alright........

edit: my mech rec'd 65 pounds off road. we'll see.

[Edited on 5-15-2009 by woody in ob]

just had my air bags installed. $197 + free shipping for the kit. $212 for labor. not too bad. the bags are at 60psi but i'm gonna drop it to 40 and see how they ride.

first impressions = the back end is a little (1 1/2"?) higher. the ride is just a little stiffer. i asked my mech to run a tee to one filler valve but he didn't. i have two fill valves but it isn't really that big a deal, i guess. now to figure out the sweet PSI spot.

Quote:

Originally posted by woody in ob just had my air bags installed. $197 + free shipping for the kit. $212 for labor. not too bad. the bags are at 60psi but i'm gonna drop it to 40 and see how they ride. first impressions = the back end is a little (1 1/2"?) higher. the ride is just a little stiffer. i asked my mech to run a tee to one filler valve but he didn't. i have two fill valves but it isn't really that big a deal, i guess. now to figure out the sweet PSI spot.

Woody, are you taking a new refer.? It is a big step up from an ice box. At some point you guys will see why there are 2 points to put in air, it"s like having a sway bar. If you put in a tee, the air will move from side to side as the truck leans over, and not help with the rolling. It is more of a deal if you have a camper, or other weight up high. I always bring the kitchen sink when we go.

UPDATE

i have been having a CLUNK sound audible from the cab for the past few months. when it raines and everything is wet the sound is gone. going over a speed bump in a parking lot or pulling away from a stop or bouncing on the bumper would replicate the annoying sound.

a buddy crawled under and whilst i bounced he narrowed it to the right side airbag mounting shackle/bracket. we let out all the air and notice the mounting lock nutz on the shackle/bracket were somewhat loose. the left side were not as loose but both sides were tightened up and the clunk is gone! it must have been the break in and settling of the new bags. the bags run at 40 lbs during baja trips and the noise was gone. when i unload them to 15-20 around town the noise returned. the rain this winter threw a curve into the diagnosis process....



5 more weeks!