BajaNomad

First Timer with a few concerns..

G-Rock - 12-10-2007 at 08:54 AM

Howdy Friends,

I'm new here and soon to be a first time driver on the Baja.

I have 16 days off work and I'm ready for an adventure so I'm driving from Denver to the Baja. I'm 43, traveling alone in a 07 VW. I'll likely spend some nights sleeping in the car or camping and an other nights in inexpensive hotels.

I've traveled quite a bit in Central America but I do have a few concerns about Mexico.

From what I've read here it can be a little sketchy crossing the boarder and driving through TJ. Any suggestions? Time of day? Once I get past TJ are there any other areas I should avoid? I'm hoping to do a little surfing however; I don't want to travel with a board. Will I be able to rent a board down there?

Finally, I'm going to try to make it all the way to the Cabo. Please recommend "can't miss" places, restaurants, sights, etc.

Thanks!

Greg

larry - 12-10-2007 at 09:12 AM

Tecate is a much nicer intro to Baja than Tijuana. Cross there and drive the road through the mountains and Guadalupe Valley to Ensenada (if you are headed for Highway 1). Alternatively, you can cross at Mexicali and head south for San Felipe, Gonzaga Bay (a beautiful isolated gem) and then on to Highway 1 about 400 miles south of the border. The only caveat about this route is that the section from Puertecitos to Gonzaga, 50 miles or so, is about the worst road you will ever see. But I drove it is a beat up low clearance Dodge minivan once. You don't need 4WD but higher clearance helps.

At Gonzaga, there are two nice campgrounds--I prefer Campo Beluga--which are not at all crowded this time of year. There is also Alfonsina's. Rooms are around $40 per night and the restaurant serves exquisite seafood meals.

Have a great trip and try to hit Bahia de los Angeles as well.

Diver - 12-10-2007 at 09:17 AM

Cross the border at Tecate and you will have a much more "pleasant" entry into Baja.
If you are going farther south, plan to make San Quintin or farther, your first night.
From there on south, just your normal, south-of-the-border common sense should do.
There are board rental at Los Cerritos and Pescadero Surf Camp, both just south of Todos Santos.
I'm sure they're available elsewhere.
.

bajalou - 12-10-2007 at 09:38 AM

Both suggestions sound good to me also, and having grown up in Colorado, remember winter there as ABC

(Anywhere But Colorado)

Hook - 12-10-2007 at 09:43 AM

With so many recommendations for the Tecate route, someone should give him the latest on getting his FMT there. How easy is that?

G-Rock - 12-10-2007 at 09:48 AM

Thanks guys! ah ummm, whats an FMT?

bajadock - 12-10-2007 at 09:53 AM

G-rock,
16 days to Cabo and back to Denver is ambitious. I did Denver to LaPaz and back in 3 weeks in Sept '06 and should have either taken 2 more weeks or just stopped in Mulege area as southernmost stop.

I still haven't seen Cabo, will someday, but there are so many other gorgeous spots here. Spending only 1 night misses out on the adventure and beauty.

Iknowiknowiknow the lure of saying you drove the entire peninsula. But, I strongly urge you to spend more time on your feet and outside of your VW.

Last item is watch your weather forecasts for CO, NM, UT and NV storms as 'tis the season.

HAVEABLAST and holler if you need a night in Ensenada. The Pub is open.

Al G - 12-10-2007 at 10:10 AM

Sleep in a bug...are you crazy...You will have to go to Todos Santos at least...to see Amir for an adjustment:o:o:o:lol:

Russ - 12-10-2007 at 10:18 AM

I agree with bajadock. You'll need to make time to enjoy the places you stop. At least two nights. But I'll bet you'll find a place you'll not be able to leave. My two were LA Bay (La Gringa) and Punta Chivato. Put those on your list. You may make it as far as Loreto this time but guaranteed you'll be back for more ASAP! Have too much fun!

rts551 - 12-10-2007 at 10:24 AM

FM-T is your tourist permit. The immigration office for your permit is right at the border on the right hand side.

David K - 12-10-2007 at 10:32 AM

The Tourist Card/ Permit/ FM-T is your 'visa' to be in Mexico legally... required for travel south of the border area (Maneadero, 10 mi. so. of Ensenada) or anywhere in Mexico for more than 72 hours. Free for up to 7 days, about US$20 for longer... up to 180 days. You will need your birth cert. and photo ID or a passport... Mexican officials cannot take the payment, you must walk it over to a bank teller to pay, then go back to the INM office for the final stamp.

At Tijuana is a 24/7 bank teller window just for this purpose... Tecate has a bank across the street, but open only during normal bank hours.

G-Rock - 12-10-2007 at 10:49 AM

Thanks for the tips! Exactly wanted I needed. Keep em coming. If i don't make it all the way down thats fine with me, I'm in no hurry. I'll certainly take your suggestions.

As for the VW bug, well, its actually a new 2007 Rabbit, but I get your point. Pretty small for sleeping. I'm trying to make a trade on a Honda Element as we speak. Much better for camping!

I'm getting excited!

wilderone - 12-10-2007 at 11:01 AM

What are your interests? Baja is a mecca for naturalists. With the recent rains, Baja may be a lot greener than usual. Mission/indigenous history? Get a decent map, of course - and you will note that Mex. 1 does not follow the Pacific coast for too long before it goes down the center of the peninsula and then over to the gulf side, so consider your surfing opportunities accordingly. Also, be aware of what time sundown occurs - as you will want to be heading to your campsite (offroad) before dark.

G-Rock - 12-10-2007 at 11:27 AM

I would love to do some shallow water sea kayaking and surfing maybe whale watching. Good food, few beers, make some friends, dance (salsa). But b/c this is sort of last minute, I'm on a budget. Is it dangerous after dark or just hard to get around?

Ojosraros - 12-10-2007 at 11:46 AM

are you bringing a kayak? we are going to Lopez Mateos and Poza Grande for shallow water kayaking after xmas. this is in Magdalena Bay, an incricate labyrinth of mangroves, barrier islands, sand bars, exotic birds and baby whales. we will be camping and fishing there.

bajaboolie - 12-10-2007 at 12:26 PM

They still make Rabbits? Love 'em. Anyway, make sure your car is good and dirty.

G-Rock - 12-10-2007 at 03:50 PM

WOW! I looked up pics of Lopez Mateos and Poza Grande. Looks amazing. I will not be traveling with a Kayak. Are there places to rent them there?

They changed the name of the VW Golf back to Rabbit. Not the greatest marketing idea but its a great little car. Really dirty car = less chance of getting ripped off?

[Edited on 12-10-2007 by G-Rock]

Cypress - 12-10-2007 at 04:13 PM

G-Rock. Go for it. You'll be able tell stories about your adventure around campfires forever. Beware tho, if you leave, you'll always want to return.:spingrin:

rpleger - 12-10-2007 at 10:59 PM

You have a great time...lots to see...take it slow...

osoflojo - 12-11-2007 at 06:39 AM

You will never make it to Cabo but thats OK, save it for the next trip, or the one after, or the one after that or...............

wilderone - 12-11-2007 at 10:11 AM

"Is it dangerous after dark or just hard to get around?"
Reasons not to drive after dark: it's very dark after sundown (no street lights, no ambient city light) and you can only see a matter of feet beyond the side of the road, therefore, you can't see the turnoffs that you're looking for. If you do find that sign and dirt road you're looking for, it's difficult to find a campsite because, again, you can't see very far in the dark. It's cold in winter and animals seek the warmer blacktop and cattle may be sitting in the road; it's a two-lane road and oncoming headlights from the numerous trucks are blinding; there are few or no shoulders on the road so sudden swerving to miss something may land you upside down over a cliff; other drivers who are DUI, speeding, driving down the middle of the road, towing something wide, are constant hazards and in the dark even more so; you can hit fog patches where you can only see 15 ft. ahead of you; I believe about half the traffic on Mex. 1 is comprised of motorhomes, buses and huge trucks which take up at least all of their lane and some of yours, so it's always nerve-wracking, and in the dark, death defying (!). Large trucks trying to get over the mountain passes slow to about 10 mph. The mountain passes are very curvy, so passing the slow-moving trucks is very hazardous, and it's difficult to determine the speed and distance of the oncoming cars in the opposite lane, especially in the dark. And in Baja, you can get fierce strong winds pushing you around, or rain which puddles in the vados. Every "Curva Peligrosa" sign means it.

David K - 12-11-2007 at 10:16 AM

You also miss seeing... everything!!! Drive at daytime south of El Rosario!

larry - 12-11-2007 at 11:11 AM

Wilderone--very good analysis

bajaboolie - 12-11-2007 at 04:48 PM

And people seem to have no issues passing cars on a blind curve in those mountains. But that's dangerous day or night. :rolleyes:

Pescador - 12-12-2007 at 08:39 AM

This time of the year it is cooler on the Pacific side but still beautiful. You might want to consider a side trip in to Asuncion or Abreojos. San Ignacio is a desert oasis that has a lake and great camping spots. Conception Bay is great this time of the year and offers great camping spots where you can see crystal clear water and there are places which offer some protection from the northern winds that come this time of the year. If the wind is blowing on the Sea of Cortez side, sometimes it is very nice on the Pacific side so stay real flexible and explore, ask lots of questions, and enjoy yourself.
We come from Colorado every year and have found the most effecient and time saving route is Denver, Alburquerque, Flagstaff,Phoenix, Gila Bend, Yuma, El Centro, and then cross at Tecate. The Guadalupe valley is like the wine country of California and is a real treat. You are two days to the border and at least two days to get into Baja so that takes up 8 days of driving so you really have a week to explore this vast and diverse land.
Why if you only got as far as the Catavina boulder fields and the Cirio and Cardon cactus forests your trip would be a great experience. If you get to Santa Rosalia and see a white Dodge truck with Colorado plates that read BAJATRK, be sure to wave or honk.

G-Rock - 12-12-2007 at 10:08 AM

Wow! Thanks for all the suggestions and support. This site really is a great wealth of info and companionship. Great advice about driving at night too. Daytime driving it is! I bought an inflatable kayak yesterday and I’ll be packing along my snorkel gear. I’m really starting to get excited!

vivaloha - 12-12-2007 at 10:25 AM

Pump it up G-Rock - the inflatable that is!

In a new car like that, dusty dirty is the only way...

Camp out of viz of the main road to avoid night time "visitors"...

All these dudes think Cabo is too far...Its not...just bust
down there if that's what you want...my take on things-
warm water, warm sand, mellow vibe - go to the east cape
on the tip...bring a tent...you'll find your way...yeah, you'll
be driving a lot but at least when you get to Land's End,
you'll be like - wow! Do the USA driving on a binge basis
and then get one good night sleep before crossing in Tecate...
Head to Land's End - East cape - you won't be sorry you did...
HW

Neal Johns - 12-12-2007 at 10:54 AM

Don't camp until you get to or past El Rosario to avoid crime prone areas and heed vivaloha's advice on camping out of sight. There is the best motel in Baja (Baja Cactus) in El Rosario and inexpensive! Ask how to get to the nearby La Lobera sea lion crater and coastline. Also don't leave anything out of the car when you are away from it. Just common sense will keep you out of trouble.

If you get stopped by cops and they want to collect the "fine" right there, stall them by insisting to go to the station to pay and they will probably go away.

Visit http://www.vivabaja.com/ (the site of David K on this forum, the most prolific and friendly poster), for more places to see. (DK, that will be $5 please) :spingrin:

Pescador - 12-13-2007 at 08:05 AM

Neal, that is a great idea for a newbie. Look at all of David K's Pictures and commentary and you should get a real feel for some of the great parts of the Baja. David captures the spirit of Baja really well. This is a really exciting place and it is so vast that you can only begin to experience parts of it, so open your eyes and your heart and leave your preconceived ideas at home but be a little wary like a fox and you should do fine.

David K - 12-13-2007 at 09:21 AM

You guys are so nice!!;)

I am happy to help, share, contribute... come on over for a cold Pacifico or Dos Equis Special Lager or Tijuana Morena (that's what's in my fridge right now... may be gone when you get here!):wow:

G-Rock - 12-15-2007 at 01:35 PM

Thanks for the great tips!

I've decided that tackling the Baja for the first time alone is not what I had in mind for a Merry Christmas. I've decide instead to revisit my beloved Nicaragua where I have some good friends and a beach house waiting for me.

I plan on spending the next few months setting up my Toyota 4x4 for a long spring trip of camping and surfing the Baja.

Thanks again everyone and I'll see you in the spring!

Happy Holidays,

Greg

[Edited on 12-15-2007 by G-Rock]

Bajafun777 - 12-15-2007 at 09:29 PM

Greg, when you get down to Nicaragua post some pictures. Was thinking of doing Nicaragua but I did the Costa Rica trip and it was a great place, friendly people, great beaches, casinos, get food, cold cold beer and just no problems that my family or I ran into. Nicaragua worries me after Daniel Noriega got into power again as President. Just do not know what to expect, make sure you post and do some pictures if you would. I really enjoyed Ken's pictures of Columbia. Later----bajafun777