BajaNomad - Let's talk solar panel on an RV

Let's talk solar panel on an RV

Hook - 12-14-2007 at 01:02 PM

First off, I have a smallish Lance camper: 9-4. It's on a diesel truck.

I can see a situation where I might be in one location for more than a few days and really dont want to listen to a diesel engine or a genny for even a few hours every few days. Big on dry camping.

So, I am thinking an 85 watt panel with a charge controller might be great. I have a 12v electric freezer that would be nice to keep running 24/7. It draws 2.5 amps @ 12v. Not sure if that is just while the motor is running or 2.5a/hour of use. But an 85 watt panel should support that. Running a group 31 12v lead acid as that's about all the room I have without some mods that will only steal storage space. All other electrical draws are minimal; have even gone to a small propane space heater that is WAY quieter than the stock space heater.

My main question is whether some can recommend a mounting system and specific place to buy (with panel and other hardware, of course). I'd like one that would be roof mounted that can tilt towards the sun.

I like the roof mount idea cause it's out of the way, less likely to be plundered. A non-mounted one would have to go on the bed for transporting and,well, there's already stuff up there.

As I do travel on dirt, must I take steps to minimize the physical shock the panel would receive up there? Just rubber washers or ?

I'd welcome any advice on how to proceed.

Also, I've heard that a charge controller can still cook a battery. How can I prevent that, short of physical disconnects? I like electronic solutions.

Neal Johns - 12-14-2007 at 02:30 PM

Hook, one thing that is missing is how long you will be dry camping. If you really want to camp several days and run your freezer 24/7, consider a portable 1000 watt Honda generator. Very quite, small, and light, quite unlike the old ones. The old ones had to run at full speed to keep the output at 60 Hz while the current ones run slow when there is a small output demand. Put it on the other side of your rig and you won't even hear it. About the same price as a solar setup.

If you go solar, get a bigger panel than 85 watts. The 85 watts is at full sunlight hitting the panel full on when the panel is cool (normal heating reduces the output). Even adjusting the tilt frequently, as the day wears on, the output goes down. A good charge controller will have a taper down charge that will not cook your battery just as an automobile voltage regulator regulates..

Santiago - 12-14-2007 at 03:04 PM

http://www.unirac.com/spec.htm I think Camping World carries these.

Bob and Susan - 12-14-2007 at 03:18 PM

hook
just buy a honda 2000 at mayberrys
around $900 including shipping

http://mayberrys.com/honda/generator/html/selection.htm

honda1000 is too small

this is sooooo quiet and will run all night on less than a tank of gas

Hook - 12-14-2007 at 03:53 PM

There is no such thing as a quiet generator, gentlemen. There are QUIETER generators than others. I have owned a Honda 1k and 2k and we have a 3k at work (the quietest of the bunch). I currently have a Yammy that is just a few db louder than those and it has eco-throttle.

No, I want the freedom and quiet of solar when I know I'm on a trip where I wont need to run the A/C. And that's almost all the time, since we love the heat.

Remember, being diesel, I would have to carry separate fuel just for the genny. I avoid having to use cans unless it is the only solution.

Besides, the genny solution doesnt add to the man-toy collection. :lol:

No, my electrical needs are minor enough that I shouldnt have to resort to a genny, though I could. Rarely watch TV (almost never bring it). Listen to the radio and read around camp. Some drinking and eating have also been observed.

Hook - 12-14-2007 at 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Neal Johns
Hook, one thing that is missing is how long you will be dry camping. If you really want to camp several days and run your freezer 24/7, consider a portable 1000 watt Honda generator. Very quite, small, and light, quite unlike the old ones. The old ones had to run at full speed to keep the output at 60 Hz while the current ones run slow when there is a small output demand. Put it on the other side of your rig and you won't even hear it. About the same price as a solar setup.

If you go solar, get a bigger panel than 85 watts. The 85 watts is at full sunlight hitting the panel full on when the panel is cool (normal heating reduces the output). Even adjusting the tilt frequently, as the day wears on, the output goes down. A good charge controller will have a taper down charge that will not cook your battery just as an automobile voltage regulator regulates..

Neal, I really dont have the room for more than one panel up there. Too many vents and appliances and such. I'd also like to leave room for a chair or two.

BajaWarrior - 12-14-2007 at 04:49 PM

Hook, you might want more than the 85 watts for a panel, and maybe consider isolating the two systems, so the camper lights/pump aren't draining the juice for the freezer and visa versa.

We're going to get an electric fridge for our solar home below San Felipe, and I will isolate the system, maybe running 4 6volt batteries, a couple of panels, and it's own invertor and regulator.

Aluminum angle is what I used to mount all of my existing panels, easy to work with and non-corrosive. Two on the roof flat, and two for your adjustable legs, pretty simple. Also, I used #12 Hex Head self tapping screws for everything, which are easily turned with a 5/16 nut driver on a cordless drill. One size screw makes it real convineant.

Hope this helps.

I agree with the quiet camping too, but you'll probably still bring the Honda 1000 anyway. We bring ours and will charge the trailer batteries every other day when we're camping with our Toy Hauler on the Pacific side in the summer.

Al G - 12-14-2007 at 04:58 PM

Hook...as you said forget Gensets...in the mobile world this is old school. Sure they can have a back-up role but this is becoming less and less. If you have a motor and an alternator...most people traveling by a vehicle have a motor...I think... :lol:

My solution was:
2 Kyocera KC85T 85 watt @ $449.95 each
http://www.altersystems.com/catalog/kyocera-kc85t-85-watt-so...
@ 5.2 amp hr...best producer in most price ranges.
combined those with..
Blue Sky's bad ass 2000e 25 amp controller that gives you everything you can ask @ $228.00
http://www.altersystems.com/catalog/charge-controllers-blue-...
This bad boy boost the output of both panels to a total of 15 amps.
I installed this on a friends RV (5'er) and he only had 2 12v deep cycles and it worked so well he had me remove 1 panel...he was only using a few lights and entertainment TV-radio never needed to start his gen-set again.
There is no need for a inverter if you use all 12 volt...he did borrow a 600 watt from me, but decided to get a 12v combo TV/DVD.
I think you will need two 85s with the refer. If you check the spec's 2- 85's are more efficient then 1- 170 watt...plus easier to mount...plus if one quits your are not dead in the water...plus they are not as flexible so if you drop one as I did (from the top of my Motorhome it may not break...mine did not. :biggrin:

msteve1014 - 12-14-2007 at 05:08 PM

Hook, I have an ARB freezer in my camper. it draws about what you are saying. I have 2, 60 watt panels and they wont quite keep up with the freezer and the lights in my small camper. they are old panels and most likely are not putting out what they used to. i have now added a third, 30 watt panel and they are keeping up a full charge now. i got the panels for free, otherwise i would have been very disapointed with the output and all the work, just to run that freezer. get a larger panel, you will find all kinds of uses for the power when you have it. Mike

Al G - 12-14-2007 at 05:09 PM

I meant to say...do not cheap out when it comes to a controller...this is the trick. the one I mentioned is turnkey...a ton of info, but you don't do anything...except to check the water.

BigWooo - 12-14-2007 at 05:34 PM

I think Al G’s setup is about what you’ll need:

For an example, I calculated your solar needs guessing the freezer runs 12 hrs a day and you use two 15-watt bulbs for 3 hours a night each.

Solar panels only charge at their peak for about 4.5 to 6.5 hours a day depending on orientation of the panel and your location. I used an average of 5 hours of peak charging a day for my calculations.

With the above power usage you’ll need about 175 watts worth of solar panels (two 85 watt panels) and at least 187 amps of battery storage. 187 amps of battery storage will be enough to get you through two cloudy days before your battery drains below 50%.

To calculate your actual power needs you’ll have to measure exactly how much power your freezer uses in 24 hours. Search through Bob and Susan’s posts. They bought a thing called Kilowatt that measures power use. Might be useful for you.

I’ve used the same panel on two different campers (10 + years now). I mount it flat. That lessens the power output, but my energy needs are only 12v fluorescent lights and fans.

Check RV websites. There are special panel mount kits for campers. I don’t remember where I got mine, but it was super easy to install. You don’t need to put in any special mount to dampen the vibration, the panels are pretty tough. I’ve broken the frame on my truck 5 times on bad roads and I’m in my second camper. The panel is still going strong.

Hook - 12-14-2007 at 06:53 PM

Getting some good advice here................

Soulpatch, no, it is just my house battery. It is isolated from the starting batts and is charged while the diesel beast is running. But it is only one batt.

Big Wooo, you're right. I should get that thing before making any decisions. Could use it to measure the average draw of the entire house on a typical trip.
But I am no where near 187 amps of storage on this battery; only 120 amp/hrs @20 amp rate. I have a way of going with two 6v but am resisting it so far as it will steal valuable storage. Both cannot reside in the batt compartment.

Msteve-mines a Norcold label, the 40 MRFT or something.

Al G- GOT IT, on the controller. Very important.

Pomp-escapees.com, of course. I have been reading about vehicle registration methods through them. Time to look them up.

Warrior- I guess if I'm on a real long trip (which I hope all of them will be shortly), I would have the genny. Would you agree that it makes more sense to run the gen and charge with an outboard charger? My internal is only a 3 amp charger, the generator's is only 8 amp I believe. I have a smart charger that does 2/20/40. Thinking I should run the genny and power the smart charger.

Keep those retail recommendations coming..............

salvavida - 12-14-2007 at 07:48 PM

If it's a 3 way like the cabover I have use the propane. It goes almost 18 days on a 10 gallon running on high. I also have a 110 watt solar on the roof with 2 inlilne deep cycle marines mounted in the camper. They perform well on the 12 volt function but the freezer does not stay as cold. Put rubber bushings between the solar panels and the roof, helps with washboard vibration and use more mounts than you think you'll need. West Marine offers great solar systems.

Hook - 12-14-2007 at 08:07 PM

Thanks for your input, Salvavida.

The problem with the built-in freezer (which is only a two way, BTW) is that it's so small. A few fillets, some Dreyers, ice for the margs, that's about it. The Norcold is a portable that runs on 12/24v or 110.

I thought of something else that does get pretty heavy use...........a Fantastic Fan. That definitely ups the need for another panel.

Bob and Susan - 12-15-2007 at 06:26 AM

kil-a-watt

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Kill-A-Watt-Electricity-usage-monito...

everyone using solar and bateries NEEDS one :light:

msteve1014 - 12-15-2007 at 06:26 AM

you can plan on the freezer drawing that 2.5 amps 24 hours a day in the summer on the s.o.c. In the spring or fall, or on the pacific, it does not have to work as hard, but I would get enough panel to run 24/7 and then some. I have had my freezer for a few years and more than a few trips. we have camped for weeks at a time and never run the truck

msteve1014 - 12-15-2007 at 06:30 AM

the kil a watt thing does not look like it will help on a 12 vdc set up on a camper, better for a house

Bob and Susan - 12-15-2007 at 06:35 AM

yea only 110v (house current)

jorgie - 12-15-2007 at 06:59 AM

my system gives me 5 camping days with 900 amps use.......on 2x12 deep cycle marine batts......if I hhad room the way I would go would be 2x6 with a 600 honda backup..............small solar systems have limits as does small battery space

BigWooo - 12-15-2007 at 07:15 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by msteve1014
the kil a watt thing does not look like it will help on a 12 vdc set up on a camper, better for a house

Duh...I didn't think of that, but would this work:

When you plug your camper into the wall, the converter in the camper converts the 120VAC to 12VDC. So, if Hooks converter is connected to the freezer, could he plug the camper AC power cord into the kilawatt, turn on the freezer and read it's power use on the kilawatt?

The converter probably has some power draw that you would have to subtract out, maybe 20-30 watts?

If this works he should be able to measure the power use of the fantastic fan, lights etc also.

[Edited on 12-15-2007 by BigWooo]

BajaWarrior - 12-15-2007 at 08:01 AM

Quote:

Warrior- I guess if I'm on a real long trip (which I hope all of them will be shortly), I would have the genny. Would you agree that it makes more sense to run the gen and charge with an outboard charger? My internal is only a 3 amp charger, the generator's is only 8 amp I believe. I have a smart charger that does 2/20/40. Thinking I should run the genny and power the smart charger.

Keep those retail recommendations coming..............

Perform a dry run with your charger and gen at home, there has got to be a limit before overloading the little guy.

Bob and Susan - 12-15-2007 at 08:17 AM

our converter on the trailer uses 700watts

Pescador - 12-15-2007 at 08:35 AM

I have used my Lance for years with an 85watt Kyocera and even in Alaska, we kept up with the energy requirments. Your biggest problem is to isolate the freezer and determine whether or not it is important enough to spend another battery and panel for it's operation. You may be ahead to update your freezer/refrig in the camper. We find that if we are careful, we can hold everything we need to be comfortable, it is just that we have redefined the definition of comfortable.
I think the guys at Quartzite are some of the most knowledgeable about RV solar in the world and there is a guy at Davis Dam that is really up to date about all of that stuff.
One thing is for sure, buy the best controller you can get and you make your monitoring job a whole lot easier. I started tilting one side of the panel when I could actually see how much juice I was putting in at any given time. Very simple process that is described above very well. Two arms that raise the panel and tighten down and then go flat for travel. We have now passed the 100,000 mile mark on the truck and camper and no problems noted. That is a lot of Baja miles and a small trip to Alaska thrown in for good measure.

BigWooo - 12-15-2007 at 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bob and Susan
our converter on the trailer uses 700watts

Wow, didn't know converters used so much power. My inverter uses 20 watts so I guessed a converter was about the same.

Correct me if I'm wrong:

Inverter = DC to AC
Converter = AC to DC (or DC to DC of a different voltage)

I understand hook doesn't have an inverter so he can't use the display on that to determing power use. So, if he wants to figure power draw, shouldn't he be able to plug the camper into the kilowat, turn on whatever appliance he wants to measure, and subtract out the 700 watts (or whatever his converter uses). Wouldn't the remaining figure be what the appliance/light is using?

He could then use those figures to accurately size his solar panel and batteries.

BigWooo - 12-15-2007 at 10:07 AM

Great site!

rts551 - 12-15-2007 at 10:21 AM

Pompano

Do you have one (or know someone that has one) of the windside turbines?

cost, operation etc???

msteve1014 - 12-15-2007 at 12:57 PM

(our converter on the trailer uses 700watts )

i think your converter will put out 700 watts if you hook it up to a load that size. it does not use that much power all the time.

Bob and Susan - 12-15-2007 at 01:02 PM

nope...

plugged it into the kill-a-watt then into the wall outlet to measure the usage of the trailer...

700w
but
that includes the built-in battery charger that never goes off :saint:

turtleandtoad - 12-15-2007 at 02:03 PM

Just a word of warning on the panels themselves.

Camping World used to sell solar panels from ICS (or something like that). I don't see them on the CW website anymore but I'm sure that someone is still selling them somewhere.

These were actually seconds from the manufacturers of solar panels. The panels didn't quite pass the minimum output required by other panel retailers but otherwise worked. ICS mounted them in their own frame and sold them cheap (I have 3 of them). They also come with a propriatary plug to daisy chain them together. Which would be fine except the supplied cables are only AWG# 14; which results in a large voltage drop when you start connecting them together and have a fairly long run to the controller.

And because of the minimal output, using larger wire and tilting these are almost a must. In the winter I lose about half of their maximum output because of these problems.

The other major problem is with that frame. It's an extruded aluminum with curved surface and no lip, so that there isn't anyplace to install mounting or tilting brackets. They come with a kind of clamp for mounting. I'm currently trying to devise a tilting bracket for them. If I don't have any luck I'll be putting these 3 panels up for sale, cheap!.

My other panels have square frames with a lip that allows me to install tilting brackets.

Hook - 12-15-2007 at 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Pescador
I have used my Lance for years with an 85watt Kyocera and even in Alaska, we kept up with the energy requirments. Your biggest problem is to isolate the freezer and determine whether or not it is important enough to spend another battery and panel for it's operation. You may be ahead to update your freezer/refrig in the camper. We find that if we are careful, we can hold everything we need to be comfortable, it is just that we have redefined the definition of comfortable.
I think the guys at Quartzite are some of the most knowledgeable about RV solar in the world and there is a guy at Davis Dam that is really up to date about all of that stuff.
One thing is for sure, buy the best controller you can get and you make your monitoring job a whole lot easier. I started tilting one side of the panel when I could actually see how much juice I was putting in at any given time. Very simple process that is described above very well. Two arms that raise the panel and tighten down and then go flat for travel. We have now passed the 100,000 mile mark on the truck and camper and no problems noted. That is a lot of Baja miles and a small trip to Alaska thrown in for good measure.

Jim, what is your house battery in the back? More than one?

Hook - 12-15-2007 at 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Pompano
This is a great site I just read about dry-camping and solar questions. Should answer most querys.

http://www.macandchris.com/IntroToDryCamping.htm

Thanks, Roger. I will look it over.

Not finding much on the Escapees site w/o joining, which I still might.

Hook - 12-15-2007 at 05:34 PM

Reality is starting to set in.

I dont have the roof space to accommodate the amount of panel I would need to do it "by the booK" and keep my battery capacity at something near 50%.

I also checked into going with two 6v batts in series. After doing an "energy audit" (and assuming the freezer running about 20hrs/day), I might use 93ah/day so 6v is the only way to go. (freezer is 48ah/day alone; over half!) But the only feasible way of doing this for my situation is going with sealed AGM batteries (dont want gel cel) as one would have to be on it's side. LOOKS LIKE THEY ARE RUNNING ABOUT 350.00 EACH!

Then there's a single panel, the CC, wiring and mounts and I'm up over 1500.00 already.

Maybe I'll look into some really nice earplugs for the genny hours. I'd have to run the genny for 2-3 hours anyway, under this scenario.

And just accept that I will be going into "town" every third day for nieves and hielo.

I can see how this would work in a larger rig with more roof space and more battery space but I'm not sure it's practical in a unit this small WITH THIS FREEZER WISH.

Remove the freezer from the equation and an 85-120 watt unit could work with even a single 12v battery.

805gregg - 12-15-2007 at 09:44 PM

Hook check out Engle Referator freezer units, they use very little juice.

Al G - 12-15-2007 at 10:06 PM

Also Hook consider the two 85s long hinged so they fold face to face foe travel...you will be using you engine/Alt then for.

Bob and Susan - 12-16-2007 at 06:11 AM

we use one of these in the kitchen
for beer and sodas...

uses only 80 watts at 110v

we have used this kind for
many years in the "office"

there's a small (really small)
freezer inside for "small" stuff

keeps beer COLD and of course
leche

for the morning coffee

it is 110v and needs an inverter but
we used it for a couple of years in the garage :light:

jorgie - 12-16-2007 at 06:34 AM

I can stand beside the 500 [0r 600 ] Eu500i Honda and don't know it's running.....or dig a hole to baffle the sound. The Spartan L50 hold 350+ amp/hrs/wk each. recovery is 85% charging from the 500 Honda is about 2hrs day....runs on the smell of an oily rag.
a camper should be able to find space for smaller Batts 2 off should produce 190 amp/hrs/wk each charging about one hour/day so 2x190x.85 would be available power........

Hook - 12-16-2007 at 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by jorgie
I can stand beside the 500 [0r 600 ] Eu500i Honda and don't know it's running.....or dig a hole to baffle the sound. The Spartan L50 hold 350+ amp/hrs/wk each. recovery is 85% charging from the 500 Honda is about 2hrs day....runs on the smell of an oily rag.
a camper should be able to find space for smaller Batts 2 off should produce 190 amp/hrs/wk each charging about one hour/day so 2x190x.85 would be available power........

I love that........."runs on the smell of an oily rag". :lol:

I am reluctant to buy another genny that small as it wouldn't give me the option, however rare, of running my A/C. I have the Yamaha YG2800i right now. It's 60db at 1/4 load which is what it would be for charging. Not so bad.

What's a Spartan L50?

Hook - 12-16-2007 at 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by 805gregg
Hook check out Engle Referator freezer units, they use very little juice.

I think I have a rebadged Engel, although not a Series II model. About the same consumption as even the Series II.

[Edited on 12-16-2007 by Hook]

jorgie - 12-16-2007 at 08:11 AM

It's still early....yawn....Trojan L50.....60db means deeper hole to baffle the noise, a bit ply to deflect it.....my 104 watt solar keeps the 2x12 marine batts in good shape but at 92 amp/hrs/wk each they are too light for some useage but have kept the batts at 12.79 volts for over a year . If I could lift a L50 I would buy 2 .....196 lbs each...ouch.

Hook - 12-16-2007 at 08:15 AM

Solar panel question: If panels are putting out, say, 7.1 amps at 17.3 volts, does the amperage increase as the charge controller steps the voltage down to a safer level for the batteries? Or does the charge controller steal some of it or ???

Hook - 12-16-2007 at 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by jorgie
It's still early....yawn....Trojan L50.....60db means deeper hole to baffle the noise, a bit ply to deflect it.....my 104 watt solar keeps the 2x12 marine batts in good shape but at 92 amp/hrs/wk each they are too light for some useage but have kept the batts at 12.79 volts for over a year . If I could lift a L50 I would buy 2 .....196 lbs each...ouch.

Trojans....Spartans.........an easy mistake to make, if you know your Greek history and it's early. :lol:

My draw would be about 92 ah/DAY, running the freezer!

I am going to experiment with bringing a plastic doghouse, modified for more ventilation and maybe some Sonex on the inside walls and ceiling. I can carry this with the genny inside on a Hitchhaul up front or in back. That's where I carry the genny anyway. One of those plastic DH with the removeable roof.

Hook - 12-16-2007 at 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by grover
There must be a good reason for all this screwing around to avoid using propane.

:?:

Have you priced the propane freezers of a portable size? There's your good reason. The cost is approaching the solar setup......but at least the solar gives you other benefits. Plus, you can put an electric one just about anywhere in a rig.

turtleandtoad - 12-16-2007 at 10:49 AM

To get a true feel of what you need, you first have to calculate what your total daily load is. This calculation has to include a "Demand Factor" (DF), that takes into consideration how many hours a day that the load unit will be on or running.

For example, a small refrigerator/freezer is given a 75% DF by the National Electrical Code 2008 (NEC8). That is, the compressor is only running 75% of the time. Also, small refrigerator/freezers are rated at about 300W but you're better off using nameplate data if available.

This DF has to be applied to all your loads that are not considered "Continuous".

For convenience, a lot of the battery and solar websites offer on-line worksheets to do the calcs for you. One of these is Oasis Montana

Suggestion, If you're doing your own calcs, do everything in Watts, then convert the final results to A/H. Watts are not affected by the voltage, If your calculating the loads for AC equipment that will be powered by an inverter, the Watts are the same at 12V as they are at 120V. You do have to factor in the efficiency of the inverther though.

You should also calculate the recharge time/rate so you know how long it'll take to restore your batteries. If your solar system can't recharge the battery bank in 8 hours AND supply the daytime loads, then you're going to end up running the generator every day anyway. Which kinds of defeats the whole solar idea, doesn't it.

As a retired electrical/electronics systems designer, I'm here to tell you that this field can get very complex very fast if you let it. And it's easy to overlook something.

But for a simple truck camper, you should be able to handle it. Just do a little research on the web and make use of the tools that are offered. Just google "Calculate Battery Loads" and you'll be surprised at the stuff you find.

Hook - 12-16-2007 at 11:09 AM

I thought maybe it was clear that I have made an energy audit (your DF) in my post that started with "reality setting in". 93 ah/day is what I might conceivably draw, running the freezer. Less than half that w/o running the freezer.

With a 120 watt panel (the largest I can accommodate on the roof), probably the best I can realize is about 30-40 ah/day of charging. Less than half of my needs and I would still be drawing that load the following day so there would be no replenishment.

The genny is really a must with the freezer.

I need to rethink how valuable that freezer actually is. It's best use is in freezing fillets for returning "home"; whether that be in Mexico or the US. But, realistically, I dont start accumulating fillets until the last day or two before I return. And the whole time I am returning, I am charging the battery and running the freezer off the alternator.

Maybe I need a bigger RV. :yes:

Santiago - 12-16-2007 at 11:16 AM

Hook - I'm with you on the uncertainty for a need for a freezer to take fish 'home'. For me, the drive home is two 10 hour shifts which mean that the fish were caught the day before I leave - what's the point? The only use would be to freeze the fish on the way home and let your vehicle recharge the battery. Anyway - you have a built in excuse to go fishing if she-who-must-be-obeyed wants fish for dinner.

hookemup - 12-16-2007 at 11:25 AM

Hook
Like others have noted I think your a little light with one panel. If you do go ahead with the do it your self plan. M.E.C.S. Solar had a complete RV kit with great step by step instructions,when I did our camper a couple of years ago. A word of caution,if you put additional batteries anywhere but in a seperate battery box,make sure you enclose and vent them to the outside. The fumes are corrosive and can be explosive.Good luck.

Hook - 12-16-2007 at 02:24 PM

Roger, I do already have the standard, built-in Dometic in the camper. It's just got such a small freezer. Really only accommodates a single, 1 gallon ziplock with ice cubes, a quart of ice cream and a fillet or two IF they are not too big.

Oh yeah, and one Frosty Paw that always seems to have to come.

My Norcold electric is for more freezing capacity. About 45 quarts more.

Pescador - 12-17-2007 at 07:57 AM

PJ, the other option, which I have used a lot of times, is to max out the refrigerator for the trip home. I set it as high as possible and I have turned the whole refrigerator in to a freezer. Not very good for keeping lettuce but most of the other things do quite well and the fish definately gets beyond crystal stage and while it may not be at minus zero, it is definately cold enough to make the 5 day trip back to Colorado. Coke and beer on the bottom shelf would stay slightly above freezing as long as they did not spend the night in the fridge.

Hook - 12-17-2007 at 09:52 AM

What year is your fridge, Jim?

Mine is the original from 93 and it's acting like I need to do a flue cleaning as well as service the burner and jet. Havent done that since I've owned it for 3-4 years.

I've never been able to get it as cold as you are talking while on the road. In camp, yes. I've always suspected it's due to wind affecting the flame. I have the aftermarket door for the outside enclosure. But the best I can usually hope for is about 40-45 degrees below ambient temps.

Tell me about your battery system. Have you figure out an easy way to go with 2 6v batts or are you using a single in the compartment?

Al G - 12-17-2007 at 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Pescador
PJ, the other option, which I have used a lot of times, is to max out the refrigerator for the trip home. I set it as high as possible and I have turned the whole refrigerator in to a freezer. Not very good for keeping lettuce but most of the other things do quite well and the fish definately gets beyond crystal stage and while it may not be at minus zero, it is definately cold enough to make the 5 day trip back to Colorado. Coke and beer on the bottom shelf would stay slightly above freezing as long as they did not spend the night in the fridge.

Sometimes you just have to say "Damn I knew that" when someone jogs you pea brain...Refers work from top to bottom...Just partition off a section up top with cardboard with two holes in center back and you have a new freezer compartment. the things below the cardboard will not freeze.

Hook - 12-17-2007 at 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Al G

Quote:

You know, that is REALLY not a bad idea to try. I could maybe remove the freezer door, temporarily, to let the cold travel farther downward. This might be practical for the drive home when you're down to almost nothing anyway.

I love trailer trash type solutions!!!

Pescador - 12-18-2007 at 03:38 PM

Hook, I have only used the single 12 volt battery from inception. The refrig is a 2000 which is the year of the camper. If you are going to go through the system, make sure you check water column pressure as most of the older regulators do not put out what they should. There was a post some time ago that referred people to a web site that had a ton of information about the system. I clean the flue once a year with a steel brush, clean the propane orfice with alcohol and then blow it out with compressed air(it is a semiprecious stone so be very careful with it), and check my water column pressure about every year or two. I had to add baffles to my outerdoor to keep the unit from blowing out when I was traveling and I take the baffles out when I am stationary. It is a Dometic unit, which I consider superior to Norcold and the other stuff that is produced out there. We now use it for a back up refrigerator to keep beer in and even in hot weather we are able to stay just above freezing. When I turn it up I can definately get it below 32 degrees and keep it there and Al's suggestion of a piece of cardboard to enlarge the freezer area is a good one.

Hook - 12-18-2007 at 03:43 PM

Pesca, I had to replace the regulator that goes between the two tanks this year. That is the regulator you're talking about? There isnt one inside the fridge compartment, is there?