dravnx - 1-10-2008 at 03:00 PM
Baja 2007 trip report
Laurie and I left our home in Sonoma County, Ca. around 4:30 pm Dec 21st. Spent the first night Best Westerning it just north of the Grapevine. Next
day we arrived in Chula Vista and checked in to the Vagabond Motel. I based my decision on recommendations from fellow Nomads. The security here
seemed very good as the parking lot is large and the motel completely surrounds it. The rooms are a bit worn but were OK. Watch your rigs height as
the overhead is low. You might have to go in the out. After checking in we headed for the border, parked at one of the big lpay lots and walked over
to the immigration station and got our tourist visas. It took 45 minutes of waiting in line to get through US customs so I don’t know if I’ll do that
again. Anyway, crossed the border just at sunup and yahoo, we’re in Baja.
Drove as far as Guerrero Negro and checked into the Caracola. What a great place, nice rooms, free internet in the lobby and easy parking. Got up
early and hit the road. Got to Mulege and had the pappas rellenos at Danyho Taquiria ,.
After lunch we headed to Santispac. The beach is cleared of 95% of the palapas that the snowbirds built so camping is once again great. The bathrooms
are in OK shape, you have to flush with a bucket but they are cleaned every day or so. I’ve done the shovel and cathole thing enough times so it
wasn’t any big deal. The only showers are behind Ana's and we were told they are not always hot. We didn't use them so no issue. The tamale guy
visited everyday and the chotchsky sellers hit us up 3-4 times a day. Almost Free! Spent 3 delightful nights here. Our last night, the wind picked up
and howled all night long. We kayaked around the islands, visited the Mangrove lagoon, and Laurie paddled with the dolphins. Broke camp and drove into
Mulege. Got a room at Las Casitas, another of my favorites in Baja. Had dinner at Las Equipillas. The seafood combination dinner is delish and big
enough to feed the two of us. Funny side note, 4 people sat at the table next to us, Mom, Dad, teenage daughter and Grandpa. All they did was complain
about the poor service they get in Mexico and if “they” could learn proper customer service and how to run a business how much better the country
would be. They all ordered steaks and fancy drinks and ,of course, complained about the steaks. Ahhhhrrrrgg, ugly Americans.
Next morning, the 28th, we got up and drove to Bahia de los Angeles. Stopped in town to get a few fish tacos at Lisbeth taco stand. Got to Camp
Archelon and found Antonio. We had made reservations via email for one of his palapas for the 29th through the 1st but he was able to get us in a day
early. The camp filled up pretty fast so I was very happy. Hooked up with David, Leslie, Laura, Joe, Kirk, Hillery, Rio and our other Baja friends.
This was our 3rd year in a row at BOLA for NYE. Some of them have been coming to BOLA for Xmas to NYE for over a decade! Spent some great mornings
kayaking, long afternoon naps and potluck dinners. Got to kayak with dolphins jumping within 10 feet of us and swimming under us in 10’ of crystal
clear water. Rented a couple of pangas for 11 fellow campers and spent the day visiting islands, fish camp beach, and catching buckets of sand bass
and ling cod. Made beer batter fish tacos and a giant bowl of ceviche for 14. Everyone ate until they were ready to bust. We then had fun feeding and
photographing the pelicans.
NYE was a dinner at Antonio and Betty’s. Betty cooked up 2 turkeys and about 30 of us brought potluck dishes for an awesome dinner. Antonio and Betty
are such gracious hosts and run an awesome campground. Antonio is always arranging panga trips, hikes, visits to the museum or art gallery and slide
shows about his turtle research work. He is a great promoter for the town. Can’t say enough about how much we enjoy our stays there. Anyway, we hung
in until about 9:30 when our bunks started calling us. One thing about winter camping in Baja, when the sun goes down, its time to sleep. Some of the
folks headed over to Casa Diaz for the celebration. Also visited the new hostel that Mario and Patty built on the hill overlooking BOLA. Looks like a
great place and the cast of characters is like something out of a Tom Robbins book.
Next morning we packed up and hit the road. Stopped in Ensenada for my last fish taco and a kilo of camarones to take home. Crossed the border at
Tecate. It took about 45 minutes to get through. Longest I’ve ever had to wait but I’m sure it beats TJ. Continued on to another Best Western, just
north of the Grapevine. Drove15 hours that day. We arrived home the next day by late afternoon. A great trip, lots of fun with our new kayaks, met
some great people, got lots of reading and sleeping done and recharged the batteries.
For the most part, all the roads are in excellent condition, military check points as usual, got the truck sprayed in GN but was not asked to pay.
Immigration did ask for our papers. First time in 15 years. Learned that you should not drive 90 mph with kayaks strapped to the top of your truck.
Luckily, I saw one of them starting to go and was able to stop in time to restrap and slow down. Also learned that when loading kayaks the wind will
fly them off the truck if not strapped down.
Oh, yeah, don’t want to forget our stop in San Ignacio. We were walking around the zocolo when a woman approached us named Seva. She asked us if we
had ever seen the museum. No we replied and off we went. Just off the square is a boarding house with some local artifacts on display and a bunch of
books for sale. We were introduced to Juanita, who owns the place. Interesting place to visit and a nice garden out back. Once again, another great
Baja experience. I've been visiting Baja for 15 years and I swear, it's like peeling an onion. Every trip, I remove another layer and find something
new.
Fred - 1-10-2008 at 03:19 PM
Great report........thanks
Natalie Ann - 1-10-2008 at 03:26 PM
Thanks for the report, dravnx... sound like a good trip and a perfect New Year's Eve.
The Seva you met in San Ignacio... I believe that may well be our very own member Bajame. She often expresses her love of the town and its people, so
I'm not suprised she offered to show you the iglesia.
Nena
Cypress - 1-10-2008 at 05:30 PM
dravnx, Thanks for the report.