BajaNomad - Baja...surprise me

Baja...surprise me

AcuDoc - 4-3-2008 at 12:18 AM

Some of you old timers or semi old times may remember I used to hang out on the board a lot. I played in Baja for close to 20 years but ended up on the mainland getting my mother settled in San Carlos the last few. A place that I really like... but its no Baja.

I'm hoping to do Baja in the fall as SC is in the cards for this spring. I can't wait to see the changes. I haven't been there for at least three years and below Mulege in probably not for a good five years, maybe longer.

In the recent past I would hang out in San Lucas Cove with Jim (Pescador) and his wife Marika, Fish Pit Dave and Alan. For most of the previous 8 or 9 years it was La Ventana. Which I hear has really changed and I fear not for the best. The best as for me that is.

I was hanging out there before the windsurfers found the place. Just kicking back in the campground and watching the goats wonder through there and the village. Now I understand from one of my windsurfer friends, Gary Morris that has graduated from his trailer in the campground to having a house built. They used to call me a ground dweller as I was pretty much the only tent. And as I was pretty much the only one what wasn't a windsurfer I was known as Fisherman Larry. Gary tells me that there are streetlights so it is hard to stargaze, lots of new buildings etc.

I'm just wondering some of the changes you have noticed say down to Los Barriles. I'd base out of LV for a couple months and once or twice head to Pablo Tios for dinner or Martins to have a cervesa, a shot and watch the boats come in taking the back roads through San Antonio. Or I'd venture in La Paz, my favorite city to my favorite fish taco place, my favorite vendor and an ice cream at the place with the painted trees. I'm ashamed to say its been so long I can't remember the name of any of them, but I remember where they are.

So give it to my guys. What's going to shock me? What are the "make sure not to miss"?

I was never into hang out in Cabo San Disneyland, so just from the border to LB.

tnx in advance

Capt. George - 4-3-2008 at 03:10 AM

AcuDoc

What's going to shock you? How about everything. Deborah and I went to Ventana last year, had not been there since 2002..how about street lights, sidewalks and hardly a beach lot to build on...Creeping more and more north.

All places you speak of outside of San Lucas has changed dramatically. El Centenario, outside La Paz, growing leaps and bounds, also Comitan and other areas just outside the city.

In Abreojos and north to Ascuncion, the area still remains somewhat calm, however, with the improved access change will come rapidly there also. But never the less, it is all still Baja. We spent a few months on the mainland this past winter, NO THANKS, Viva Baja!

And then AcuDoc, 20 years, look back at all the great things you seen in Baja and the memories that go along with them...Welcome back, Baja Beckons.

PS: Did you know Tony Shanley from San Diego, fished San Lucas often, mostly in May, had an 18ft Parker...........cap'n g

Diver - 4-3-2008 at 05:43 AM

Gary Morris's house in LV has been completed for a few years.
I live near him in the US and spent 5 weeks there this winter.

What may shock you is the number of homes that have gone up in LV and El Sargento. And the campground is often wall to wall.

Don Alley - 4-3-2008 at 08:16 AM

The La Paz ice cream place is always a must stop for Paula, for the rose petal ice cream.

I recognize you handle, AcuDoc, from somewhere, here, or maybe Allcoast?

wilderone - 4-3-2008 at 09:26 AM

Yeah, try not to get too depressed about the changes you'll see. You'll just have to find some new places that make you happy. As a ground dweller, it's easy to find a little spot all to yourself - but you have to put a lot more effort into getting there, because they're off the grid. Once there, you can sit back, watch the setting sun and know that all is not lost. Bring beer.

DianaT - 4-3-2008 at 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Capt. George

In Abreojos and north to Ascuncion, the area still remains somewhat calm, however, with the improved access change will come rapidly there also. But never the less, it is all still Baja.

Probably very true. :no:

But, we have seen more than one person disappointed in the Asuncion-Abreojos area because it is often cold and often windy, which is what we like.

Acudoc, after 20 years, it will be interesting to read your trip report. Have a great time.

Diane

Pompano - 4-3-2008 at 12:14 PM

Hola AcuDoc. It will be nice to hear your thoughts on how the peninsula presents itself to you when you make your trip. Looking forward to it.

My two cents. Having lived in the Mulege area 6-7 months yearly for almost forty years now, we can say that little has happened to change our particular lifestyle. Just better technology to improve daily functions and entertainments. We still live in a very quiet and uncluttered paradise. But we planned it right a long time ago, methinks.

Changes are inevitable almost anywhere on the globe these days...except for one paradise Up North...so far anyway.

I think you will find some changes for the better, while lamenting the loss of old landscapes. But hey, just turn off the main highway almost anywhere and find the Old Baja. It's still here.

The local Mulege businesses have prospered tremendously and newer, better construction always happens, of course. Those areas around Loreto, La Paz, and the East Cape corridor and coasts are most affected by crowds and crowded communities...or so it seems to us rural types. Compared to those places, we are Mayberry, RFD.

AcuDoc - 4-3-2008 at 02:26 PM

Thanks for the responses and please keep them coming. Please say hi to Gary for me. I probably know Tony by sight as we were there during the same time of year and the name sounds familiar. And yes I used to hang on the Allcoast board as well. I also was on the Amigos board for years. I still recognize many of the names here but there are many that I do not as most of my board time for the last couple years on the San Carlos boards.

Sallysouth - 4-4-2008 at 08:57 PM

Don Alley, Acudoc was an Amigos member. Was wondering what the heck happened to him.Good to hear from you Acudoc! (i used to be Msal, btw) :yes:

capt. mike - 4-5-2008 at 05:28 AM

hey AcuDoc, i remember you, glad to hear from you again.

i love SC - where do you stay there? my friends owned the Marina Mart so you must know them. but Skip died so his wife took over, maybe she sold. SC is on my very short list for retirement. we are hoping to get involved with the airpark there.
so i'll U2U here when i go there next we can quaff a few.

AcuDoc - 4-5-2008 at 05:06 PM

Although it is not Baja, San Carlos is great. I'm there about 4 months a year during my slow season. That may change as I've been asked to become the Director of Oriental Medicine in northern Idaho. I'm thinking it over as after 20 years of massage/acupuncture it's starting to take it toll on my body. This year for the first time my back gets a little sore and my knees bother me more then usual.

If I do this it will be more full time for a few years as the also offered me the position of Clinic Director. On the up side I'm liking working more with my brain then my brawn. Also there is great fishing in the area!!!!

That is one reason I'm thinking of doing Baja this fall. I not sure when I'll get back to the mainland or Baja if I take the position.

I rent in SC and have a great place across the street from the beach for $415 a mnoth. Hate to give it up but life is what happens while you are making plans.

Good to hear from you.

larry

PS

AcuDoc - 4-5-2008 at 05:08 PM

The position is at The American Institute of Clinical Massage in the Couer d'Alene area.

AcuDoc - 4-5-2008 at 08:39 PM

I should have mentioned I'm still a SC Rookie and although I've met some people I really don't know many. I do believe I heard that Marine Mart was owned the a woman. I've had them to a couple things for me and they have done a great job.

I'll be in SC for around a month starting in a couple weeks.

capt. mike - 4-6-2008 at 06:37 AM

wow seems like cheap rent, or is it a trailer park spot?

windgrrl - 4-6-2008 at 10:28 AM

AcuDoc - What do you miss about Baja compared to SC? Some friends are looking hard at the SC option, but we love Los Barriles and area for our impending snowbirding.

AcuDoc - 4-7-2008 at 01:50 PM

Hi Mike

No, I have a1 bedroom furnished apartment with ocean views, large lot
etc. I was a great find and there a lot of them here in SC.

Windgrrl
The difference between SC and Baja is the same with backpacking and staying in a hotel. Baja, at least the last time I was there was still very much the frontier. I love to camp, go pretty much where I want etc.

SC is a retirement community of around 4500 people (70% American, 10% euro/Canadian). It is a great place and there are places to go to get away some put it is not Baja. There are the two best marinas in Sea of Cortez, a handful of hotel, restaurants and stores. The best thing is it is very non-touristy. There are some great deals on rentals, home and land but like everything that too will change at some point. Probably sooner then later.

The driving is much better then in Baja as well. It is 250 miles and 4.5 hours below the border. It is just about equal in latitude as Santa Rosalia. There is a ferry that goes from SR to Guaymas 8 miles away.
Guaymas is about 140,000. Lots of stores etc. An hour north is Hermosillo for Walmart, Costco, Office Dept, Sams Club etc. nice to have, even nicer and hour away.

If you want to check SC out here are the two websites.

www.sancarlosmexico.com/ Barts board great info

http://www.vivasancarlos.com/ Viva main page (more BS on this site, but it has gotten better, good info as well)

http://vivasancarlos.com/bulletin/index.html viva forums

Hope this brief post answers some question.

Also I found that Baja has more liberals (closer to calif) and SC is much more conservative (Arizona types)

Martyman - 4-7-2008 at 03:30 PM

Baja has more liberals :lol:

Not the posts that I've been reading lately. Do they still call it Oriental in Idaho? That seems to be a bad word in PC NorCal
Bueno Suerte

Hook - 4-7-2008 at 04:14 PM

I might add that virtually all goods and services are less expensive over on the mainland.....IF you know where to look. Not necessarily in SC proper, as a rule. But the proximity to a large seaport like Guaymas is a big plus. Only 10-20 minutes away. And the roads tend to be much better. Also an international airport in Guaymas but pretty limited flights into that. Major intl airport about 75 minutes away in Hermosillo.

Baja definitely still has more of a frontier feel........but that is changing extremely fast with the infusion of West Coast Cash. I hope the infrastructure keeps up; some may wish just the opposite.

One very large benefit for us is the non-profit organization in SC that supports the local ambulance service and other civic functions in SC. They have a very large social calendar they use as fundraisers including several fishing tournaments, golf tournaments, dances, tours, holiday dinners (like St. Paddy's, Xmas), community theatre, and on and on. Not everyone's cup of tea, of course, but we like having these events as an option while supporting a good cause. Should be some nice options in retirement.

Beginning to look like I will be moving there no later than July.................SC, that is. Having traveled around a few areas of Baja since the late 60s, I'll have a good base for comparison. I'm sure I'll stay in touch over here...........even plan to use the ferry and take our boat over to Baja occasionally......by water, of course.

[Edited on 4-7-2008 by Hook]

Iflyfish - 4-7-2008 at 04:54 PM

I traveled the Baja last winter, 06/07 after more than twenty years of absence. There have indeed been many changes. Don't expect to rake clams by the handful at Conception Bay! Many of the old shacks that used to serve lobster are gone. The highway is much better. The people of the Baja continue to be amazingly friendly and hospitable. As you know and others have mentioned, change is inevitable and you will see all that "progress" brings with it in the Baja, both for good and for ill.

Baja is more prosperous as is all of Mexico. The health of the people seems better to me now. There is just more of everything. Consumer goods are far more available and in quantity not experienced previously. For example there are Costco's now in Baja. There is still an extrordinary range of culinary options available and the options for upscale dining are certainly improved. Check out Tres Virgines if you happen to get to La Paz!

Todos Santos is gentrified to the max and one can certainly get ones cappacino there in the morning. Loreto has some how been able to maintain it's charm. Mulege was devistated by flooding but it coming back.

As has been stated earlier, one only has to get off the main road to find the solitude that you have experienced before in Baja. I think that it now requires more vigilance than in the past, but one always needed to be aware of one's surroundings.

We love Asuncion and the people there. A real oasis of Old Baja with all the modern amenities including reliable electricity, water and sewer. The infrastructure there is good, so much better than I used to see in remote areas of Baja. The people of Asuncion are wonderfully open and inclusive of visitors. Juan and Shari Bondy, who have a couple of bed and breakfasts there are great at introducing the visitor to their community. jdtrotter is right about the weather there, it can be windy. There are now a number of Nomads who have settled there. The Cooperativa in Asuncion is a model for other fishing communities in Baja and all of Mexico for that matter. I hope that other communities take notice of what can happen if fishermen, lobster and abalone grabbers and others gather together to cooperatively manage their resources.

Baja Norte has become much more densly populated and with this has come even more crime. The War On Drugs has been a dismal failure and that Wack a Mole game has created some real problems in Baja as well as along the entire border of Mexico. The typical mordita has escalated into big time crime, kidnapping, armed robbery and similar criminal behavior. There has always been crime in the Baja, it has just escalated in quantity and intensity. There is currently a major war going on for the control of drug trafficing and tourism has been affected greatly as a byproduct.

Every thing that you used to find in Baja is still there and if you take your old Baja sensibilities and senstitivities with you then you will again genuinely enjoy yourself.

Have a great trip amigo.

Iflyfish

DianaT - 4-7-2008 at 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Iflyfish

We love Asuncion and the people there. A real oasis of Old Baja with all the modern amenities including reliable electricity, water and sewer.
Iflyfish

You didn't stay there long enough. :lol:

Actually, the electricity does not seem to go out very often and it is fixed within hours, but water is another story.

The water pipe from the Vizcaino area and all of the systems are old and VERY unreliable. It will work just fine for several weeks and then be out for a week, or even two weeks. Last time it was out for 7 days for more repairs and the day they turned it back on, a pump at the local facility broke---3 more days. It is why we all have tinacos and those blue barrels for extra water. :yes:

It is not a big deal for us as we are prepared and just conserve like crazy and use lots of grey water when the system is down. (Use lots of grey water all the time) But sometimes it surprises visitors---boom, no water. They don't know it is out and drain the tinaco.

Cool, windy and beautiful old Baja.

IFLYFISH, are you coming back? You will be surprised at a few changes in town.

Diane

Iflyfish - 4-7-2008 at 05:19 PM

We will be back as soon as we can.

We did not stay long enough to experience the breakdowns you talk about and I hope that the repairs last! In Mexico I have come to expect problems like those you describe. Given the remoteness of Asuncion I am still impressed witht the quality of the infrastructure.

I recall a visit to Bahia Gonzaga many years ago where all the potable water was in 50 gallon drums save for that scavaged via sand spike.

The only constant is change and I look forward to seeing them in Asuncion. No man ever steps into the same river twice....Heroditus

I very much look forward to meeting you. I greatly enjoy your posts.

Iflyfish

mulegemichael - 4-7-2008 at 05:33 PM

We all like to think we were here "early on"..but as we all know, that's relative....what we all DO know, is that baja has changed/evolved/progressed/yadayadayada , since we've been here....it's bound to happen...look around you.......tiny little la ribera a few years ago just grabbed my heart...now...a deep water marina, condos, homesites,golf course,...WHAT??!!...in La Ribera????..no way...yeah...way...baja's changing and i just wanna stay one step ahead of it

Skipjack Joe - 4-7-2008 at 05:35 PM

Abreojos just isn't the same after they paved that road in.

<sniff><sniff>

I even miss those rotten old wooden beams I had to drive under when passing through Santa Rosalia.

windgrrl - 4-8-2008 at 03:13 PM

Thanks, AcuDoc.

For us - Baja is the place to be!