Trip report part 3 ½—Los Barriles to Punta Colorado—and most of in between.
Most of you know from part 1 that I aborted my first planned trip when the hubcap on the vehicle that we were to drive down melted unexpectedly—I
seemed to remember that we would be wandering through a desert or two and was most happy that all of those problems happened in San Diego instead of
Central Baja.
So I rearranged my plans and flew into San Jose de Cabo on 4-4-08. Met some real Baja folks on the plane and the two hour trip seemed to last almost
10 minutes thanks to a most fun conversation with Sheri & Mike Ryan who were headed to Punto Colorado with their extended family who were being
treated to a weekend of fishing by her father—don’t know how many but when we left the airport it took two shuttle vans to haul the family off. Her
dad had to be a real Baja guy because a few months ago the doctors had to cut part of his leg off and he had just recently been fitted with a
prosthesis. He was determined to head out and catch a big one.
We all parted at the airport but agreed to get together so that I could introduce them to a few places in Baja Norte.
I checked in at the Playa del Sol in Los Barriles, dumped my junk and headed over to Tio Pablo’s for a fantastic dinner of Escargot, sourdough bread,
a wonderful Caesar salad and a huge plate of Calamari circles and a few really cold Pacifico’s. You guessed it I really am not a taco stand kind of
guy—and there were no taco stands in the area—not even a hot dogs stand was to be seen. This proved to be the only meal where I ate alone. However,
my waitress was a wonderful flirt with a great smile and many other becoming attributes including a lovely walk.
Went to bed that night with a well satisfied stomach and wonderful visions of the friendly folks of Barriles dancing in my head.
This village of about 5,000 souls is a great place to walk and talk with the residents, almost divided evenly between gringo’s and Mexicans. Lot of
discussion by both groups centered around concerns caused by the rapid growth in the area—but for most different reasons.
There are few walls to keep folks out but many cattle guards to keep the horses and cows out, who wander where they will, out of the flowers and
grasses surrounding the various hotels Always woke early to the clamor of roosters greeting each day.
That afternoon saw Sara or Sally a wonderful Nomad and the daughter of Don Jimmy Smith, picking me up in her old Toyota truck for a trip over the
Buena Vista. One of my dreams had been to watch the Baja Shakespeare plays which have been staged in the East Cape area for the past eight years.
Sara was treating me to dinner and the play in which she and her grandson, Dylan would appear. Not very often that a Lady springs for an evenings
entertainment for me and I was lovin’ it.
Shakespeare married to Rock and Roll—‘The Twelfth Night’ brought roars from the sold out crowd. Way beyond far-fetched—but what a blast. The play
was adapted by Robert & Lesley Currier (they direct the Shakespeare plays in Marion County that little burg across the bay from San Francisco.
Should you find yourself down this way during the first week in April give some real serious thought to attending this fun filled play. I am already
thinking of next year.
This is what the handbill had to say about Sara who played the character, ‘Sri Yogi Marharishi’. Is that not a mouthful? Anyway this is what the
play bill says about our fellow Nomad—she has been with Baja Shakespeare since it was formed eight years ago and will do anything for a laugh and her
penchant for silliness (sorta sound like me).
The next day found me visiting Don Jimmy Smith’s widow at her Tiendre to pay my respects. If you cared about that real Baja old timer please stop by
her store and buy a soda or two. Her name, Guadalupe del Socorro Romero Lopez Smith, or if it would be easier Dona Smith. And, yes, I went by and
lifted my hat to my friend, Don Jimmy.
Noon found me visiting the ‘Annual East Cape Art Festival where I ran into Nomad Baja Judy and her husband Jim. It was rather weird when a guy tapped
me on the shoulder and asked, “Well, when are you going to write a book about Jimmy Smith.”—I was wearing my Jimmy Smith shirt which proclaims, “Dirty
Deeds done cheap”—that was when he did back hoe work all over the area. Anyway, I met Bob Farmer, owner of the Roadrunner Café in Los Barriles. Nice
man and we had an interesting talk. He did agree to have a meeting with some of the older guys in the area, such as Steve Chrisom in an attempt to
gain stories that I can flesh out for a book about Jimmy.
A little later I was most pleasantly surprised to run into a lovely lady named ‘Char’. Actually, Nurse Charlene D. Wenger, RN,ARNP—whatever that
means. All I know is that she is the lady that I labeled “Jimmy’s Angel” when she drove him about a thousand miles up the VA Hospital in La Jolla,
California (San Diego for those of you who are not snobs) when he needed all of the help he could get.
We agreed to have lunch the next day with another wonderful friend, Chuck Potter. Both of us guys arrived at the appointed time but Nurse Char ended
up enroute to Cabo, in the ambulance she ‘smuggled’ into Baja. We did finally hook up at about 7 pm at the La Palmas beach bar. Ended up having
‘lunch’ at around 9 pm in a sushi bar at the north end of the Los Barriles……….Really like a family with each of us eating off the others plate. Sorry
folks, but it just does not get any better or closer than that.
I should tell you that while we were waiting for the Angel Chuck suggested that he give me a guided tour of the East Cape. We wandered down to his
place in La Ribera, then on down to Punto Colorado. All the time Chuck is acting like the tour guide that I do when showing folks around Norte
Baja…..So much fun to just look and listen rather than worry where that road goes.
One dirt road turns into five…which way? Hell, I guess Chuck knows. What a beautiful place…still unspoiled by you and me. So much like my Baja used
to be 40 years ago.
Natural springs in the middle of the desert…flowing across the road. Cows near by to taste the water.
Okay, this is an aside and has nothing to do with the trip report…..just something I thought and wrote—“Life will be as good as you allow it to be”
These were my thought as I thought of the Lady Char.
Okay! Back on track.
The next day found me having breakfast on the second floor restaurant of the place I was staying. I had asked ‘Hector’ if they had any peanut butter
to go with my breakfast…found out it was very expensive down here….he brought me some with my breakfast. Beautiful birds with full yellow breasts
continued to visit my table for many days but would not touch to bread or other things I offered. I wanted so badly to capture them in pictures but
they would not stay for the focus.
Sat very still after I spread peanut butter on a plate placed across the table….the birds loved the peanut butter and I hope I got some great shots.
Some cruisers heading this way and other pongas moving in another direction. Like a bunch of ants. Fish jumping out of the water right where they had
been tied up. Like a bunch of ants. When I ask Hector, my waiter, how crazy can you get he explains, in more detail than I really want to hear, that
their direction is dictated by ‘what kind of fish’ they wish to capture. Yeah! You got it I ain’t no kind of fisherman…just not in the genes.
The last day saw me so conflicted—I had probably walked about 40 miles and talked to so may wonderful folks and soon it would be time to leave. Hate
leaving!
Here the folks tell you where they live not with a street address but with—I live on this side of the first arroyo or on the other side of the second
arroyo. These things are huge and it is really tough to visualize them roaring with water 6 to 8 feet deep and over a mile wide when they hit the
beach. Nothing like the dinky things down Cabo way.
Sara came by the Hotel with Dylan and picked me up then we picked up Dylan’s sister, Paloma and a friend. What a trucka even Sara says she never gets
it out of 3rd gear. We go out to Sara’s daughter fantastically wonderful home…no right angles, everything flowing—eyes are directed to the patio and
then on out to the sea.
A most fun hour with Paloma as she explains to me just how to fold clothes…………Three years old and she speaks English and Mexican with equal vigor.
She spends an hour with me—graciously, teaching me how to fold clothes. Put a wrinkle in there and she will demand that you correct it.
I guess you have figured that I have lost a chunk of my heart to Sara when her dad was dying and now I lose a sliver to her granddaughter Paloma.
Nurse Char grabbed onto a chunk of it. But only in my mind. What a lady. Stop by and visit her at the Eastcape Community Urgent Care Clinic on Los
Barriles Blvd. This state of the art place arose from nothing but her dreams to help people. JR would have loved her. Donations are gratefully
accepted but watch you wallets because Char will charm you out of more than a buck or two.
So much more but I don’t wish to bore you
To be continued in La Paz.
[Edited on 4-16-2008 by Baja Bernie]Paulina - 4-15-2008 at 09:14 PM
waiting for the next installment!
P<*)))><David K - 4-16-2008 at 07:59 AM
Great report Bernie!
If you see Chuck again, ask him to contact me... if you think of it.
Good to see you getting around in Baja!
how can I compete with a wife stuck in Mulege
Baja Bernie - 4-16-2008 at 09:40 PM
Sure hope she got out.Diver - 4-16-2008 at 09:45 PM
Sorry Bernie,
I was off reading the "Fishing Picture" post.
Sounds like a great trip !
Looking forward to more reports like this one !!
.Frank - 4-16-2008 at 10:45 PM
Always a great read Bernie, Thankselgatoloco - 4-16-2008 at 10:49 PM
Sounds like you had big fun!
We have had the Shakespeare festival on our list of things to do since we first heard about it. Maybe next April?Eli - 4-17-2008 at 09:07 AM
To see ElGatoLoco, Su Esposa and Bernie here at Shakespeare next Spring would be a dream come true. I sure hope you guys can make it!bajajudy - 4-17-2008 at 09:25 AM
Hey, Bernie
Great to see you
And thanks for the non book. Enjoyed reading it.
Hope you continue to have a fabulous time.
Buen Viajeelgatoloco - 4-17-2008 at 12:48 PM
Quote:
Originally posted by Eli
To see ElGatoLoco, Su Esposa and Bernie here at Shakespeare next Spring would be a dream come true. I sure hope you guys can make it!
It is on the calendar again for 2009! Eli - 4-17-2008 at 05:37 PM
YEAH!!!!!!!!!!!! See you guys 2009. I will check for the exact date, my understanding is it is planned for Palm Sunday 2009.
