roverdude - 7-18-2008 at 12:17 PM
Has anyone attempted the trail from San Ignacito to Mision Santa Maria? According to the Almanac, it's a trail marked "Puerto la Mision" about 7 miles
southeast from the Santa Ines exit. All the Nomad pictures and descriptions seem to be to/from Santa Ines. This alt trail is obviously shorter. But
passable? I'll give a trip report when trip is complete. Thanks in advance.
RoverDude
[Edited on 7-18-2008 by roverdude]
Sharksbaja - 7-18-2008 at 12:21 PM
Can you post a GoogleEarth photo?
roverdude - 7-18-2008 at 12:27 PM
Sorry, not that Googleffecient. It's on page 18 of my Baja Almanac. 2G is coordinates for the exit from Hwy 1. Clearly a marked trail.
KurtG - 7-18-2008 at 01:06 PM
Several years ago I met hikers who had used that route. My impresssion was that it was a foot trail only. I look forward to your report.
TMW - 7-19-2008 at 09:11 AM
I've spent a lot of time trying to find the entrence to it from hwy1 around the San Ignacito area and never did find it. When I was at the mission a
few years ago I tried to find it to go out on and didn't find it. Maybe if I stayed in the area for a few days I could find it. I don't think it's a 4
wheel vehicle trail. 2 wheel maybe. Walking probably.
David K - 8-14-2008 at 07:55 AM
Hi Roverdude,
That is a FOOT trail over the mountain and drops into the Santa Maria valley a mile downstream from the mission (near where Roy in a Land Rover, and I
set up camp last year http://vivabaja.com/msm ).
Here is an article by Baja Nomad member 'rockman', Norm Christie on that trail, from a few years ago: http://www.bajalife.com/v3pg40.htm
BACKPACKING
Mision Santa Maria
By Norm Christie
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The ruins of Mision Santa Maria de Los Angeles are about as far from a road as any mission on the Baja California peninsula. I had tried for two years
to mobilize some friends for a backpacking trip into the site without success. So, in mid-September 1993, when "Dr. Bob" Binton phoned me to say that
he had three friends wanting to make the hike in October, I enthusiastically accepted his invitation. We rendezvoused near Catavina on the eighteenth
of October. During the next five days we experienced some of the most fascinating and beautiful areas on the peninsula.
The Santa Maria mission was the last mission built by the Jesuits before they were expelled from Mexico for political intrigues. The area, which
includes freshwater springs in a valley named "Cabujacaamang" by the Indians, was first seen by Father Fernando Consag in 1746, when he discovered
Bahia San Luis Gonzaga on the Sea of Cortez. The mission itself was built in 1767 by Father Arnes and Diez as the third in a string of remote
missions. It was designed to replace Mision Calamajue which was built in the previous year, but was found to have water that was too highly
mineralized to sustain crops.
Although built in a wide canyon surrounded by volcanic rock and granite, Mision Santa Maria was the only mission built by the Jesuits mainly of adobe
bricks rather than stone. After the Jesuits reluctantly departed from Baja Sur, the Franciscans occupied the site for a few months in 1768, but
abandoned it as a principle mission when they began construction of the new Mission San Fernando de Velicata, forty miles to the northwest, in 1769.
At that time, the Santa Maria mission became an outpost of Mission San Francisco Borja until 1818 when it was permanently abandoned.
Beginning in 1961, attempts were made to bulldoze a trail from Rancho Santa Ines, past the Santa Maria mission to Bahia Gonzaga on the Sea of Cortez.
Constructed with great amounts of effort, the road reached a point about a half mile east of the mission on the Camino Real, but was abandoned because
of impassable terrain. Today that trail has eroded and is obliterated in many areas, but is still the most common route for Santa Maria's infrequent
visitors.
Our group decided on a different route. Our starting point was the small "Chelanga" gold mine just north of Jaraguay, reached by a dirt road turning
off the highway at km 187. Our route was northward, crossing the peninsula divide at Puerto la Mission (elevation 2500). We passed grinding stones,
sleep circles and other evidence of early Indians. The rock in this are is mainly volcanic. As we proceeded northward, we dropped down into a dry wash
which had eroded into the light colored granite under the volcanics. We encountered our first waterholes about one mile past the divide. Many maps
identify this canyon as Canon Santa Maria, but in fact, this canyon runs into the real Canon Santa Maria (as identified by the locals and historians)
about a mile below the mission. We continued northeast in this canyon. Occasional pools of water developed into a continuous small stream which
occasionally blossomed into large pools surrounded by forests of palm trees. This water is present throughout the entire year. I used a filter before
drinking the water, but "Tomas" Campbell, a fellow hiker, took his chances and drank the the water straight from the stream during the entire trip
without ill effects. A few wild mountain sheep, deer and smaller wild animals inhabit this area, but free-range cattle very rarely get up into this
remote yet enticing region.
There are two main types of palm tree here; Palma Verde (Palma Almenico) and Palma Azul (Palma Senico and Palma Taco). Both bear small edible fruits
which taste, as one might imagine, like dates. They add a gourmet touch when pitted and added to instant Quaker Oats in the mornings.
Our first night's campsite was in the canyon northwest of Pico Colorado at an elevation of about 1600 feet. The next morning, Wednesday, we explored
some tributary canyons in the area and then departed the campsite at 11:30 AM. Hiking over the smoothly eroded granite boulders in the steep sided
canyon, we arrived at the junction of this canyon and the main Santa Maria canyon at 2:15 PM. We had been told that the best campsite in the area was
about 1/4 mile downstream in an oasis-like setting with a large pool. The Santa Maria mission is about one mile upstream from the junction.
The following morning, leaving our sleeping bags and camp gear at the oasis, we hiked up the broad main canyon (the real Canon Santa Maria), to the
mission. I had read that the mission had been built of stone blocks and adobe, but there was no evidence of stone blocks anywhere. The site originally
consisted of a large adove church building, and adobe barracks-like quarters and storage building, and a stone corral. Aerial photos show evidence of
other buildings that were probably made of palm wood, but it is not evident on the ground. A photo published in 1908 shows the church walls to be much
higher than they are now, and the storage/barracks building to be nearly intact (though roofless). Today, a few pits are evident where treasure
hunters may or may not have found the legendary lost treasure of the Jesuits. A small trickle of running water nourishes a glassy palm forest along
the watercourse, but there are no deep pools remaining near the mission. Remnants of a crude aqueduct may still be seen.
The mission had attracted more than 300 Indians when the cadre of newly arrived Franciscans moved north ward in 1768. Although there was sufficient
water here, there was insufficient arable soil to grow the corp needed to keep the Indians attracted to the church.
The following morning, we split up and explored various tributary canyons. We were mainly searching for rock art and pictographs which had been
reported in the area. No significant art was found that day, but some garnet crystals were discovered in quartz veins in Cerro Pinto canyon, south of
the main canyon. This canyon has running water (sometimes underground) and several large, deep water holes.
On the morning of October 20, we cleaned our campsite and packed up for the last leg of our hike toward Bahia Gonzaga. Our local guide, Prieto, told
us that the main canyon downstream had several impassable areas of deep pools flanked by vertical smooth awls of granite, so we hiked up above the
canyon, on its north rim, along the remnant of the old Camino Real. This involved climbing slightly to a maximum elevation of 1375 feet (the west end
of the bulldozed trail) and proceeding for about a half mile. Along this stretch we observed several rocks with petroglyphs. We then returned to the
floor of the canyon (675 feet) where there was still water. As we proceeded westward, the canyon became wilder and sandier. Reaching the beginning of
the large alluvial fan at about 575 feet elevation, there was no sign of surface water; it was now flowing under the sand. We walked about another
mile before arriving at our previously arranged meeting site with a couple of vehicles (with ice chests full of notably cool refreshments) and
proceeded on wheels to Punta Final where resident friends were preparing a welcome back dinner.
We were all tired, but not exhausted. Although we did not have a thermometer, temperatures were estimated to range from about 85F during the day to
55F at night. I had made the mistake of wearing light weight hiking boots. They began to fall apart while we crossed the sharp stones of the volcanic
terrain on the first day. Temporary repairs were made with an awl and some cord, but I suggest that future hikers in this area wear stronger boots. On
our final evening, the boots, our only casualty, were cremated and given a decent burial.
Getting there: The turnoff to our trailhead at the Chelanga mine is 6.5 miles south of Catavina on Highway 1. Catavina is 295 miles south of Tijuana,
and the location of a nice La Pinto hotel, gas station (with mechanics) and a great little cafe at the station. More elegant meals (and margaritas)
are available at the hotel. An alternate trailhead or exit point is Rancho Santa Inex, on a signed, paved side road 1/2 mile south of Catavina. Here
there is a Flying Samaritans medical clinic, paved runway, and a cafe where you can get cool drinks and information. The terminal point for our hike
is near the coastal gravel road from Puertocitos to Highway 1 at Laguna Chapala. This road is good from Alfonsina's southward, but terrible between
Puertocitos and Alfonsina's. Ice, drinking water and a good dirt airstrip are available at the turnoff to Alfonsina's. On this route, the last
dependable gas and supplies are at San Felipe, 155 miles south of Mexicali.
[Edited on 8-14-2008 by David K]
Map showing Puerto la Mision Trail
David K - 8-14-2008 at 09:59 AM
Note that the correct location of the mission is slighly south of where shown, the real Arroyo Santa Maria is the north branch at the mission, not the
one heading south along the trail, and the trail (per Norm) reaches the road a mile downstream from the mission, not above it as shown.
I look forward to the next edition of the Baja Almanac to see if the numerous errors by Mexican cartographers found on the government maps, get fixed
by Landon!
[Edited on 8-14-2008 by David K]
David K - 8-14-2008 at 04:55 PM
What may have been confusing is that most of the trails shown in the Almanac (by a single dashed line, like this: ---------------) are automobile
roads (4WD roads perhaps). Yet, there are a few mule trails also shown by the same dashed line... Perhaps the new Almanac will do a better job of
seperating animal trails from auto/ Jeep trails...?