BajaNomad - Whales - San Ignacio

Whales - San Ignacio

marv sherrill - 10-8-2008 at 06:06 PM

Thinking of a trip to see the whales in Feb - need a couple of update answers:

Do hotels schedule trips out of San Ignacio and provide transportation to the Lagoon?

For the do it yourself person - how bad is the road and how long does it take to get there?

All there always pongueros there to take you out?

mtgoat666 - 10-8-2008 at 06:22 PM

There are tour operators in the village, and they will take you to lagoon in a van for day trips. I recommend Kuyima. Kuyima also has nice rooms at lagoon if staying overnite at lagoon.

Road to lagoon is washboarded, but passable in most any vehicle. Trip time is 45 min to 1.5 hours

You can hire boat trips after arriving at lagoon, but holidays and weekends may have limited space

DianaT - 10-8-2008 at 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by marv sherrill
Thinking of a trip to see the whales in Feb - need a couple of update answers:

Do hotels schedule trips out of San Ignacio and provide transportation to the Lagoon?

For the do it yourself person - how bad is the road and how long does it take to get there?

All there always pongueros there to take you out?

Have been out there on our own for the last few years. Last year they were working on the road---working to pave it. We don't know the result.

But, for us, it has not taken us more than 45 to 1.5 hours as Mtgoat says---depends on how many stops for photos.

There is no problem with getting a boat from Kuyima, or from some others.

We have not found the road that bad with our truck---but it can be washboardy---we just prefer to drive ourselves.

The first boats out are around 9am---go early, the wind can pick up and get really bad.

We plan on going out there again this year and maybe at GN and maybe again at Lopez Mateos. We find it a little different at each location---none better, just different.

Diane

[Edited on 10-9-2008 by jdtrotter]

David K - 10-8-2008 at 07:24 PM

Marv, we went to Discover Baja the other week for the whale talk & video... heard the road is paved for 10 miles and will be newly graded the rest before whale season...

DianaT - 10-8-2008 at 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by David K
Marv, we went to Discover Baja the other week for the whale talk & video... heard the road is paved for 10 miles and will be newly graded the rest before whale season...

Do they want you to drive on the paved part? Last year when it was all beginning, we drove on the new pavement ont he way out, but realized that they did not want traffic on that part on the way back.

We drove back strictly on the dirt road, including the diversion by the dump, but we also saw some people on the newly paved part. It was not well defined. The detour entered town in a totally different area.

But, if you prefer not going with a tour, do not hesitate to head on out. It is a great drive.

Also, if you want a quiet cheap, and local experience, we suggest you stay at the Hotel Posada or another place in town. Avoid Rice and Beans---very overpriced for what they offer, and very Taco Bell Style food.

Diane

[Edited on 10-9-2008 by jdtrotter]

David K - 10-8-2008 at 07:45 PM

Hi Diane,

They didn't say it was closed off... but usually they keep you off of fresh pavement... after a couple weeks or less, there would be no reason not to use what they made... Like the paved road to Asuncion that was ropped off last July '07.

DianaT - 10-8-2008 at 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by David K
Hi Diane,

They didn't say it was closed off... but usually they keep you off of fresh pavement... after a couple weeks or less, there would be no reason not to use what they made... Like the paved road to Asuncion that was ropped off last July '07.

David,
Part of the new part was older than a couple of weeks. It was strange. We headed out the way we have always headed out and even the worker waved us on---but on the way back they diverted us with markers. It was an interesting drive.

As far as the Bahia Asuncion road, they tried to keep people off of it for a long time---but finally gave in. Now the first part of the pavement looks like a very old road---worn and damaged, but the new part is great.

Such is the way of the newly paved roads.

Diane

As a side note, not everyone in San Ignacio is happy about the paving. The family that owns the Posada really lament the passing of the old ways; They do not look forward to the "progress" the newly paved road will bring.

[Edited on 10-9-2008 by jdtrotter]

woody with a view - 10-8-2008 at 08:05 PM

Quote:

asphalt (not sure what the stuff is in baja) is CURED/READY for traffic soon after it cools. like 24-48 hours. it's not like concrete that needs to cure. as long as you don't do sharp uturns you can drive on asphalt (not sure if this is the same stuff in baja) the next day.

woody with a view - 10-8-2008 at 08:07 PM

Quote:

As a side note, not everyone in San Ignacio is happy about the paving. The family that owns the Posada really lament the passing of the old ways; They do not look forward to the "progress" the newly paved road will bring.

silly, simple people. don't they know every inch of baja is being paved? or at least GPS co-ords and maps to EVERYWHERE are becoming passe'...?

DianaT - 10-8-2008 at 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by woody in ob

Quote:

silly, simple people. don't they know every inch of baja is being paved? or at least GPS co-ords and maps to EVERYWHERE are becoming passe'...?

yes, they know, and grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

This has been well covered- do a search

thebajarunner - 10-8-2008 at 09:34 PM

http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=23815#pid2171...

As to the road, only the first quarter mile out of S.I. was difficult, and that has likely been fixed.

Asphalt- as a 30 year developer of subdivisions the rule for asphalt, as mentioned above, is stay off until it is cool, then drive on it. Actually, asphalt that is not regularly driven will deteriorate faster than that which is used.

Antonio is the best tip for the Lagoon.
Has the best food, the most laid back, the first one you come to and the least "attitude"
And, likely he will be your personal panga driver.

The drive out is too easy, not even like "the good old days"

Enjoy!!

bajabound2005 - 10-9-2008 at 02:54 AM

We second Antonio's ecotours for whale watching. When we went last February (early in the month) the new road was paved but not open to traffic. We drove out to the lagoon and driving fast it's a good 1 1/2 hours or more. We only did $3000 (yes, three thousand USD) worth of damage to our SUV on the washboarded road.

Don't go in February without having lodging reservations. Try the yurts at www.ignaciosprings.com

Natalie Ann - 10-9-2008 at 06:28 AM

A few years back, we flew in... had no prior arrangements regarding who to go out with. There were pangueros with transportation where we landed, so I assume they're there if you drive out.

Our trip was with JR's favorite, Cheema. The ride out to the laguna was not in a big fancy van like Kuyima's, but in an old compact car practicing to become a dune buggy. The ride was a kick, as was the actual whale watching. We were not served food afterwards, but the price was waaaay below that of Kuyima. 5 of us were extremely happy with our adventure.

Nena

Ken Bondy - 10-9-2008 at 06:38 AM

Marv

Lots of information here:

http://www.coleenbondy.com/personal/travel/baja_escape/Day3_...

Regards,

++Ken++

$3000 in damage??

thebajarunner - 10-9-2008 at 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by bajabound2005
We second Antonio's ecotours for whale watching. When we went last February (early in the month) the new road was paved but not open to traffic. We drove out to the lagoon and driving fast it's a good 1 1/2 hours or more. We only did $3000 (yes, three thousand USD) worth of damage to our SUV on the washboarded road.

Don't go in February without having lodging reservations. Try the yurts at www.ignaciosprings.com

Man, I am not doubting, just wondering?

Did you run off the road and into the ditch?

We went out last year, my F-150 ran the road at 60-70 mph with no strain,
one of our guys in an elderly Toyota van took it much easier, but suffered no damage.

Just curious? That is a pretty good road to inflict that kind of damage...

marv sherrill - 10-9-2008 at 08:48 AM

Thanks for all of the responses - I have a much better idea about the conditions and services!!! Marv

David K - 10-9-2008 at 09:00 AM

Marv, 'Ricardo' is the owner of Rice & Beans (restaurant, motel, RV park) on the right hand paved side road as you turn off Mex. 1 ... go back west, parallel to the highway to get there... He can arrange tours... I stayed there in 2001.

The Ignacio Springs Bed & Breakfast is supposed to be a hoot to stay at on the river. Town was packed for the date festival last time we were there, otherwise we were going to stay.

The La Posada is a little motel on the other side of town, very cute and dates back many years... I stayed there in 1985.

Casa Leree by the plaza is worth checking out, I here... drove by last year.

The Desert Inn (La Pinta/ El Presidente) is along the road into town...

I am sure they all can provide whale trips...

[Edited on 10-9-2008 by David K]

One more thought

thebajarunner - 10-9-2008 at 09:51 AM

I cannot imagine why anyone who is even a little bit "Baja savvy" would want to take an arranged tour.

The drive out is really easy (except for the experience noted by Bajabound) and arranging a tour at the lagoon is about as complex as stopping at Antonio's and asking how soon he can load you up.

Not sure why it has to be wrapped into a formal tour, that is just a waste of good money and takes some of the fun out of it.
IMO

wilderone - 10-9-2008 at 10:36 AM

Ditto. We camped on the point at the shallow end, and drove over to the panguero's launch - made arrangements the night before. Turns out - right there on the point - is an old indigenous habitation site.

Debra - 10-10-2008 at 02:56 PM

I disagree Diane, I always stay at Rice and Beans and enjoy it, food and all (I love their scallops and shrimp, yum YUM!)

Marv,

Ricardo will radio ahead to Antiono so they will expect you and if you can drive yourself the road is wash board but as David said, very doable. If you arrange a ride it will cost you $200USD we were told this past spring.

The panga trip cost us $30pp well worth it, don't get roped onto getting on one of the big boats!

They will also have lunch waiting for you when you come back if you wish. Cost $5pp and family style great meal. Enjoy!

Udo - 10-10-2008 at 03:29 PM

A couple of years ago I joined part of the whale tour in progress by the DISCOVER BAJA club. Nothing really special about their part of the tour (Caravan from San Diego to San Ignacio), but the unbelievable experience was staying at the lagoon's entrance point. You stay in sort of like the yurts in Ignacio Springs, a fancy tent, and sleep in cots and you supply the sleeping bags & pillows. Listening to the chanting whales all night can be likened to a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The tour spends the day watching the whales, boats you to the point, showers in solar showers, they then feed you dinner, and the next day you watch the whales again on the return trip.
Ignacio Springs is kinda cool. You stay next to the river and part of your stay includes the use of free kayaks.
I highly recommend (as other Nomads have) staying at Casa Leree (reading house). Juanita is San Ignacio's town historian and you will blow your mind with all the information she has to offer. Her library alone is worth staying at her place. The building of her B&B is very very old, and there is a creek that runs through the courtyard. Reservations are hard to come by because there are only three rooms available. You may call at 01152-615-154-0158, or you can contact her at janebames@prodigy.net or http://www.prodigyweb.net.mx/janebames. In her informational handout, there is a photo of her B&B, and if it looks familiar, it's because the Punta Banda owner's association newsletter uses that same photo as the header of their newsletter.
By the way, kayaks are not allowed in San Igncio lagoon during whaling season.
If you want to drive to San Ignacio, drive to the lagoon, go in on a panga for the watching, and stay at Casa Leree or Ignacio Springs, gas, food and some etc. you can make it for less than $500.00US for a family of five.

ENJOY!

Ken Bondy - 10-10-2008 at 04:09 PM

udowinkler, I couldn't agree more about the Baja Discovery trips, they are fabulous. Their location at Punta Piedra is awesome, right in front of all the action. You hear whales blowing all night long (if you want to

), and during the day you stand on the shore and see them spyhopping and blowing constantly (see one of each in the photo below). BTW when I took this picture, about ten years ago, they were using Kuyima pangas:

Udo - 10-11-2008 at 09:17 AM

SEE! This is what this site should be about...members helping other members in their informational needs.

DianaT - 10-11-2008 at 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Debra
I disagree Diane, I always stay at Rice and Beans and enjoy it, food and all (I love their scallops and shrimp, yum YUM!)

I know some people like that place---everyone has different tastes. We have tried it more than once over the years, and everytime we were very disappointed.

But, like lots of places, it is worth everyone trying it because they might just like it. :yes:

We always just drive out there and have never had a problem. I too, am curious about all the damage to Bajabounds SUV???

While others have been very recommended to us, we end up at Kuyima because it is a better place for us to park with our dogs---more places to have the sun in the right place, etc. They even let us park in the employee area when we asked.

Anyway you go, have fun. Oh, be sure to take plastic bags and towels etc. for your cameras. It can get rough going out and back and WET.

Diane

On edit. I still highly suggest that everyone do the whale watching also at Mag Bay and Ojo de Liebre. We do not think one is better than the other, but they are just different experiences-----

[Edited on 10-11-2008 by jdtrotter]

Udo - 10-11-2008 at 01:22 PM

I agree with JDT. Different experiences!
Mag Bay & Ojo Libre the whales are right there, but the whales get much closer @ San Ignacio. Ojo Libre and Mag Bay are more vehicle friendly since the dirt roads are MUCH smoother. The panga ride costs the same in all places since the viewing is controlled by the State Park System. Ojo Libre is close to Guerrero Negro and there are lots of hotels there and chances of finding a room during the season are excellent, even without reservations.
All three places offer bus rides to the lagoons.

Cypress - 10-11-2008 at 02:33 PM

udowinkler, Thanks for all your San Ignacio info.

Casa Leree is sort-of-a mystical place. The owner/lady is in a class all of her own. :bounce:

Crusoe - 10-15-2008 at 04:38 PM

Many Whales Ago.....Until very recently most whale experts/ marine bioligists,scientists,and anthropoligists knew that indigienous hunter/gather human populations of indians and eskimos inhabiting the Pacific Coast (Baja) and Arctic regions used whale parts in many of their daily routines going back about 2000 years. It was always assumed they just gleaned what they needed off dead whales that had been found beached.However a team of paleontoligists from the University of Alaska have unearthed a site at the northeastern tip of the Chukchi Pen. in Russias North Eastern most tip and found an intricately carved walrus tusk depicting a scene of early hunters harpooning whales in a sealskin boats. These were multi passanger vessels called umiaks. The tusk bears two scenes with lines connecected to sealskin floats connecting to the vessles to the whales. In addition they uncovered sharpened whale bones and lance blades suitable for harpooning whales and other large animals, all dating back 3000 years.The carving leaves little room for doub that the communities were indeed whaling, and not simply just scavaging bones from washed up leviathans. ++C++

Antonio's is the best

BajaVida - 10-15-2008 at 07:39 PM

about a dozen of us went out a couple of years ago

we ordered a dozen combination plates before we left

the yummy meals were ready for us when we got back

wilderone - 10-16-2008 at 08:36 AM

"early hunters harpooning whales in a sealskin boats"

So what kind of boats did the Baja CA indigenous use?

Crusoe - 10-16-2008 at 12:27 PM

Wilderone....In 1963 a group of friends (4) and myself took a three week kayack trip in the north east section of the Sea of Cortes. We launced in San Carlos paddeled north around Isla Tiburon and back to San Carlos. We came across many Mexican fisherman. Some were of Indian decent that had never cross breeded with the Mexicans. A Beautiful race. Maybe Seri? Just cannot recall. At that time they were still sailing and paddeling reed boats of their own construction. We were unable to communicate with them as they were very shy. Later we were told that they often ventured west and as far off as accross the sea to the San Filpe area and points south. We also saw many mexican fisherman in the old style pangas that were a fiberglass copy of an old english Whitehall type of design that were originaly built of wood and used around that section of coast. These had a small wine glass transom. Today there are still a few of these examples still in use. Interesting stuff. It seems as every indigenes people adapted to what they had available to use in their specific locale. Her in the P.N.W. the big red cedar canoe was very standard and had to be very seaworthy to withstand the boistrus waters of Alaska and Brtish Columbia. Also burned out large mahogony tree log boats were widely used in Central America as well as reed boats from Ecuador. Remnants of these vessels have been found and dated all over the Pacific Rim Basin, from the Mexican Coast to the Hawaian Ilands and west to French Polenisia. Sea People have been voyageing for centurys and centurys. ++C++

wilderone - 10-16-2008 at 01:16 PM

Yeah, the boats would have to have been made out of local materials, and I didn't recall any history that related to boats and gulf travel, although it must have been accomplished. There is evidence in a cave on Todos Santos island (off Ensenada) of human habitation there. I sure would like to see those Seri reed boats. On a recent backpack to San Miguel, I learned of the Chumash tomols (Channel Islands) which have been dated to 8,000+ years. The wood they used came from California redwood forests, which floated down the coast and washed up on the Channel Island beaches. Burned out tree log boats are still used in in Chiapas and Yucatan - I was at Laguna Miramar once when a couple boatloads came ashore. 12 men, standing, in one boat. I found a nice little hand carved paddle in the beach debris near Tulum.

[Edited on 10-16-2008 by wilderone]