BajaNomad

First Baja trip

chiku - 12-13-2008 at 11:12 AM

Thanks to all of you, I have nearly planned our first trip to Baja. I have been reading many posts on this site for months and it has helped me a lot in planning our trip. I would love to get your suggestions/tips.
Sorry, this is going to be a rather long post but I want to give you an idea of our plan before I ask questions. I first thought about Baja for the whales but as I read, I found too many places I want to visit. Now I am wondering if I'm trying to fit in too much. We are flying to San Diego and then renting a car. So we have to cross the border by public transport and then rent a car at TIJ ariport.
Day1-we'll get a late start in driving so stop in El Rosario
Day 2- San Ignacio
Day 3- Mulege/concepcion bay
Day 4,5- Bahia asuncion
Day 5,6 - Guerrero Negro
Day 7- San Quintin
Day 9 - back to San diego after dropping the car at TIJ
We have one more day which I can't decide where to spend since I want to be all the places.
So here are my questions: Should we spend that extra day in Mulege or San ignacio (either lagoon or cave paintings) or Bahia asuncion or GN (to keep an extra day in case the first one is windy)?
Am I planning for too much? We are in mid-late 30's and used to active/outdoors vacations.
Any suggestions on public transposrt to cross the border and renting a car?
Once again, sorry if this post is too long. We would love any suggestions from you all. Thanks.
I am very excited that less than a month we'll be in Baja:tumble:

DENNIS - 12-13-2008 at 11:18 AM

Welcome to BajaNomad, chiku. Don't fret about post length. The longer the better when it's meaningful and Baja related. You'll be buried in answers soon and have a good, safe trip.

Bajaboy - 12-13-2008 at 11:18 AM

I'd say keep your plans tentative and go with what unfolds. Personally, I'd give up my days in GN or SQ for more days in Mulege or Asuncion. We'll be in Asuncion from 12/28 until the 7th or so...look us up if you're around.

zac

David K - 12-13-2008 at 11:55 AM

Welcome to Nomad!

Yes, don't 'plan' what to do with any extra days... just know you have them for a place that deserves an extra day...

Your trip sounds very much like the places we went to in July, 2007: http://vivabaja.com/707 (El Rosario, Remote Pacific Coast, Bahia Asuncion, Punta Abreojos, San Ignacio, Mulege, Concepcion Bay... back with a stop at Guerrero Negro's old salt loading warf).

Where you want to stay longer depends on what you like to do...

Fishing and friendly people: Bahia Asuncion (look up Shari and Juan).

Beach: Bahia Concepcion or San Quintin at Pabellon or Cielito Lindo?

Whales: Guerrero Negro

History/ Culture... everywhere, but San Ignacio is tops! Mission, Museum next door, Casa Leree, Ignacio Springs B&B... wow!

HAVE FUN and give us a trip report when you retun, please!

Diver - 12-13-2008 at 11:57 AM

Day 1 - Ensenada or farther ?
Day 2 - South to San Ignacio B&B Yurts (stay if the weather is nice)
Day 3 - From San Ignacio, stop in Santa Rosalia / overnight in Mulege
Day 4 - Mulege for shopping and to hit the beaches south of town
Day 5 - Drive to Asuncion
Day 6 - Asuncion (fishing with Juan ?)
Day 7 - Explore Asuncion then head to GN
Day 8 - Whales in the AM / head north to El Rosario BajaCactus
Day 9 - to SD

This is the whirlwind trip for sure but with 2 adults it should be manageable.
And as Zac said "go with what unfolds".

Terry28 - 12-13-2008 at 12:13 PM

Diver makes good sense...but....you might, on the first day make it to El Rosario, it just depends on what time you get out of Tijuana....and the sooner the better!!

Udo - 12-13-2008 at 12:15 PM

I'll go along with Diver's schedule, except for day 1.:P:P
My preference is to make it El Rosario, enjoy a quiet evening at Baja Cactus, then get an early start for San Ignacio and make sure you visit with Juanita :light:@ Casa Leree.

toneart - 12-13-2008 at 12:32 PM

Chiku,

Welcome!

Your itinerary looks workable. Like Bajaboy said, keep it loose and alter it as you wish.

Here is a suggestion: Using Mulege as a base,you can take a day trip to see the cave paintings and a two day trip to see San Ignacio, San Ignacio lagoon and the whales. That way you could forgo Guerrero Negro and have more time in Mulege too.

You will probably encounter wind in Mulege. Bring warm clothes and layer them. It is not tropical! It is cold at night and mornings. Usually it is sunny every day and it warms up nicely.

Regarding driving, the days are much shorter now. Prepare to alter your overnight stays if you see you are going to run out of daylight. The stretch after El Rosario is the longest. Maybe a stop in Asuncion on your way to Mulege would work, if your furthest destination is Mulege. During the winter I plan two overnights enroute to Mulege. During the summer...one. Those overnights are merely sleepovers, as I am focused on getting to Mulege.

You have lots of options. Everyone's suggestions here are workable. Even though you will be traveling during the high season, I think this year, hotel vacancies shouldn't be an issue. If so, there are options for that too.

So, to sum it up, I would spend your extended times in Asuncion and Mulege.

Have fun! Ask for me at Scotties Restaurant in Mulege. I would love to meet you.

Tony

gnukid - 12-13-2008 at 01:05 PM

Hmmm sounds really exciting. I am targeting the same region for a future adventure and I like your plan. The forementioned advice is excellent to skip SQ, GN for more time in pueblos and remote places in the region on the Sea of Cortez and Paciifc. I wonder what kind of car you will rent. I do believe that any car can work as the worst case is the dirt roads are washboard and at worst you will get stuck in sand and shovel your way out or be pulled out.

But here's a tip, since you will be remote at times you will encounter small stores occasionally but you may find yourself out in the middle of no where, hungry or thirsty so will you bring a cooler, if not you may find an old bucket and bags or soft coolers work wonders. What will you eat? Do you plan to cool out? Will you kill rabbits and grill over a fire? Fish and grill? Eat out?

Just wondering what food ideas you have?

May I plug google maps as a great way to plan your trip in the region which is seemingly more and more focused in the area to the west, east, north and south of San Ignacio.

Baja&Back - 12-13-2008 at 02:55 PM

Hi, Chiku. Just wondering, why rent a Mexican car? Rates are mostly higher than US & you MUST pay daily insurance - more than doubling the cost. If you have a Gold credit card, you can decline the CDW in the USA.

When in Mulege, its worth the bumpy drive to Ray's Hacienda de La Habana restaurant for an idyllic dinner!

Anyway, have a great time in Baja.

Skipjack Joe - 12-13-2008 at 03:38 PM

You might consider whale watching for your extra day if you're in the Jan-earlyMarch time frame. That would be GN or San Ignacio. (looks like Diver already said that. So, I concur).

If you're after warm weather I would spend more time on the cortez side, mulege/concepcion. The asuncion area should be windy (not swimsuit weather).

Hook - 12-13-2008 at 04:04 PM

Are you nuts? Making a trip to Baja?

Just look at the recent headers in Today's Posts: American woman fatally injured at La Ventana; Rosarito police officer shot, killed in patrol pickup; Trapped in Baja; ITALIAN TOURIST FOUND (DEAD!).

And the scariest one of all..........................Flying with Capt. Mike. :o

Dont do it! At least cold weather can be waited out. Chop more firewood or something.

If you're still determined.............forget El Rosario if you are leaving TJ any later than about noon, this time of year. I personally think the stretch from TJ to ER is the toughest part of the peninsula, especially if light is fading.

Have a great trip.................my lead-in was MOSTLY in jest. :biggrin:

AcuDoc - 12-13-2008 at 05:33 PM

Chiku

I'd take the advice of a few and skip GN and SQ. Here is my 2 cents

Day 1
If leaving late from SD stop in Ensenada
Stay at Hotel Colon. I used to stay there every time for $25 a night five years ago, not sure what it is now. Clean, SD tv, walking distance to town, safe secure parking in enclosed courtyard with security guard that actually stays awake.
I'd park my truck and 16' boat right outside my door, literally.

Day 2
Bahia de Los Angeles

Day 3
Bahia de Los Angeles

Day 4
Mulege/concepcion bay with lunch at Rice and Beans (San Ignacio and top off gas)
I've never stayed here but thinking of doing so on my next trip
http://mulege.org/naranjos/naranjos.htm

Day 5
Mulege/concepcion bay

Day 6
Bahia Asuncion

Day 7
Bahia Asuncion

Day 8
El Rosario stay at BajaCactus

Day 9
back to San Diego after dropping the car at TIJ

When traveling thru Santa Rosalia don't miss Playa Negra Restaurant/Cantina near ferry terminal in Santa Rosalia (PJ isn't that the name of the place)

Mn it's been awhile need some help here guys. Don't miss the fish taco at the place across the street from Hotel Mulege. Which by the way is a great place to stay in town. Not expensive, clean, tv, a/c safe parking in enclosed courtyard, walking distance to everything.

Anyhow that is my thoughts

bajaandy - 12-13-2008 at 05:56 PM

Welcome to the board. Like others have said, keep that itinerary open. Shoot for some main spots, but be open to side adventures. I'd try to make El Rosario the first night and spend the night at the Baja Cactus, as others have mentioned. It's only about 4 or 5 hours south, so unless you like to dawdle (which I don't recommend in that neck of the woods) you should make that no problem. From there, keep it open and have a great time. Be sure to post that trip report when you get home!

chiku - 12-13-2008 at 06:18 PM

Wow, I am really impressed, so many replies in a few hours. Thank you all!
The trip was initially planned to see whales. So, we’ll definitely visit either GN or San Ignacio. I know it’s supposed to be rather early but hope to at least get to watch a few whales. I like the idea of keeping it rather tentative as Zac and David suggested.
We are not camping. Do we have to book in advance or can we get hotel/motel room last minute?
Zac and Tony, we will definitely try to look you up. I think we’ll be there in Asuncion and Mulege at least for a day or two.
How long is the drive from TJ to El Rosario? I am hoping to make it if we leave TJ by 11am or so.
Gnukid, surely we’ll have some snacks, water with us but we don’t plan to kill rabbit or fish and grill. We are not camping this time so we will not have any camping gear. We will be eating out.
Baja&Back, I have read that US rental companies do not allow cars further south than Ensenada so we have to rent in TJ. Is it wrong information? If we could rent in San Diego and drive south that would have been much easier.
Hook, hmmm.. yes we are mostly determined.. as yet. I have been reading the news and that’s why not very keen on stopping in Ensenada.
In fact, the stop SQ on the way back, was just to break the long drive from GN to San Diego.
Again, thanks to all of you. I am sure, I’ll be back to ask some more questions. I am very excited to visit Baja (after reading so much) and to meet some of you.
:spingrin:

Bajaboy - 12-13-2008 at 06:32 PM

You'll get different responses on the time from TJ to El Rosario but count on 5-6 hours. As for hotels, Baja Cactus will be the only one you might have an issue with that I can think of. Most hotels will fill up as it gets dark, though, depending on when and where you're headed.

As for eating along the way, you might consider stopping at a loncheria for a good and inexpensive meal. Look for the 18 wheelers parked outside for an idea of which ones are good.

Follow your instincts and you'll have a great trip.

zac

shari - 12-14-2008 at 12:20 PM

We look forward to meeting you here...maybe go fishing with Bajaboy and Juan??? I would definately see the whales in GN...drive to the lagoon just south of GN...go out in the morning and continue on your merry way...this is because early in January...Ojo de Liebre scammons lagoon) is much more likely to have whales as it is the first lagoon to get whales...san ignacio happens later in the season....see ya when we see ya...have a safe trip and enjoy the bbq rabbits.

Kell-Baja - 12-14-2008 at 02:44 PM

At this point, the only thing I can add is Welcome and have a wonderful first trip to Baja.

Packoderm - 12-14-2008 at 05:22 PM

I don't know if camping is an option for you or not. If so, you might want to check out this gear rental company where you pick up camping gear in Ensenada. They say these prices are for the duration of your trip. I don't know of anybody who has rented from them, but it looks good form their website.
http://www.baja-outfitters.com/gear.html

Diver - 12-14-2008 at 05:28 PM

There are US rental companies in SD that allow their cars to go into Baja but they are more costly, in part due to the "extra" Mexican insurance that they require.

You can easily save $100 per week by renting in TJ.

Someone had posted a great set of directions for taking the trolly or something from the airport. Maybe they will speak up again ?

fernando - 12-14-2008 at 08:08 PM

Thanks for your ad Packoderm. Indeed we would be happy to assist you with camping gear in case you would need.

In terms of car rental, try Califoria Baja Rent A Car, talk to Kelly
California Baja, Rent-A-Car
9245 Jamacha Blvd
Spring Valley, CA 91977

Ph# (619) 470-RENT (7368)
Fax# (619) 479-2004


Fernando
Baja Outfitters & Adventures

[Edited on 12-15-2008 by fernando]

Back again with more questions!

chiku - 12-16-2008 at 10:09 AM

Thanks again for so many suggestions and I’m back with more questions.
Thanks for the SD car rental and camping gear info. But those cars quite expensive, even including Mexican insurance compared to what we can get at TIJ. That camping gear info sounds quite good, however we are not going in for camping this time thinking about cold and wind. May be next time.
1. I have checked the trolley schedule, and it takes about 45mins-1hour to get to SY from the downtown. And then we take a cab to TIJ airport which is supposed to be just couple of miles from SY. Does anyone know how much will the cab cost approximately? Just to get an idea.
2. Any idea how long will it take to get FMT so that we can plan accordingly when to leave? I suppose there is a Mexican bank with ATM at the border.
3. Do any hotels/motels accept credit card or cash only?
4. Where’s the best place to get Pesos, ATMs?
5. Any suggestions on a good mapbook/milepost(kmpost?) to have whole driving through Baja?
6. Any suggestions for a simple hotel/motel/B&B in Mulege or Concepcion Bay?
Well I think I have exhausted my questions but you never know until we are actually down there.
Thanks.

David K - 12-16-2008 at 10:18 AM

The auto club Baja map is the best one for road travel as it has milages on all roads... The auto club guidebook is also as good as any, if not better for highways and major dirt roads. The Moon or Lonely Planet guidebooks are also pretty okay, as well. You can order them from Baja Nomad Tienda or BajaJudy's BajaBooksAndMaps.com

The big, beautiful new National Geographic maps are very nice and detailed (except for missing El Marmol and a few other errors)...

Here's the Auto Club map and book covers:





[Edited on 12-16-2008 by David K]

books 044.jpg - 50kB

wilderone - 12-16-2008 at 11:56 AM

Once you get to border crossing and walk across, go to the Migra office to get your visas. There is a bank a couple doors down for the fee - takes about 10 minutes. You can get pesos in San Ysidro just before you walk across - many cambio kiosks. Get enough to pay for all your gas with pesos - much simpler and more accurate than calculating conversion. Then get a taxi another 50 yards down the walkway. Why do you want to go to airport? Car rental companies are all in a row about 2-3 miles from downtown TJ - should be no more than $8 in a white taxi (libre taxis). There are a couple car rental companies within walking distance of the border. I've enjoyed the Las Casitas motel in Mulege. For a splurge, try La Serinidad (get one with a fireplace).

chiku - 12-16-2008 at 12:14 PM

Thanks David and Wilderone.
Wilderone, I thought TIJ airport car rental companies are the ones close by the border. I tried to check map online. So should we book car at downtown? Is that closer than the airport? Do you happen to know which car rental companies are within walking distance? or anyway I can find that out?
I was thinking of Las Casitas.

David K - 12-16-2008 at 01:48 PM

The airport is close to the Otay border crossing... but quite a ways from Tijuana crossing...

wilderone - 12-16-2008 at 03:05 PM

There's one car rental place that is 3-4 blocks off Revolution Ave. I think it's a Dollar or Budget office. But make reservations online, and get the best rate you can. I'm sure whatever that company is will be among those all strung together along the road that is en route to the airport, about 3-4 miles out of downtown TJ. It normally costs $10 taxi fare to go to the airport, so should cost less to get to the rental car places. Some places might reimburse your taxi fare. Just be sure you get a street address to the place you're going to for the taxi driver, and agree on the taxi fare before you start.

danaeb - 12-16-2008 at 08:05 PM

If you end up getting your car at the airport, you can also get your FMT there, and get money at the ATMs inside the lobby, rather than going to a casa de cambio. You'll get a much better exchange rate at any ATM.

Also, if you start your first leg on a Sunday, you'll have much less traffic, if you're getting a late start.

Mike99km - 12-16-2008 at 08:08 PM

Some places take ATM and credit cards some don't.We always carry cash for few days or longer depends on the places we're going.The more remote the less likely the are able to able to process cards. B A I doubt will take any cards. Stash cash in a couple of places and on yourself. Always use pesos for gas and at the smaller stores. I will always take pesos back as change even when I pay with dollars. Our rule of thumb is to ask about ATM or credit cards in the larger places and have a cash back up. I try not to use ATM's on the weekend if we need to be some other place. We had one eaten a few years ago on Sunday and had to wait till Monday for the bank to open. It sounds like your going to have a great trip.

chiku - 12-28-2008 at 10:50 PM

Thanks to you all, our first trip is more or less all planned. We leave in a day. I have just couple of last minute questions.
David, I didn’t get around to ordering online the mapbook you suggested. Is there any place it’s available in San Diego?
I thought it might be better to rent car at TIJ airport, especially for the return trip we can get a bus back and don’t have to stand in line for border crossing. Any suggestions are welcome. I am hoping that we can buy bottled water at TIJ airport so we don’t have to carry it from San Diego.
Any idea what is the gas price in Baja and how much, approximately, we'll need to get to Mulege? I just need to get an idea of how much cash I should get at the border.
Thanks

David K - 12-28-2008 at 11:08 PM

Discover Baja Travel Club is in San Diego, near I-5 at Clairmont (uphill from Mission Bay)... They do sell to non-members, if you don't care to join... Discounts if you do join! They have a full Baja book and map store!

For their phone and address go to http://www.discoverbaja.com

Mulege is 618 miles from Tijuana... gas price is about US$2.20 a gallon (?)...

Don't know your vehicle mileage... but keep it topped anytime you are below 1/2 tank or so. Fill up in El Rosario (220 miles from TJ)... last chance gas station for 200 miles or so.

You will get gas 3-4 times, I would guess (Tijuana, El Rosario, Guerrero Negro, Mulege)

Bottled water sold everywhere... An ice chest in your car is nice to have cool drinks and snacks in.

[Edited on 12-29-2008 by David K]

David K - 12-28-2008 at 11:12 PM

You will still need to get into a line at the border... you can't ride the bus across without getting out to clear customs... then get back onto the bus if it goes straight through.

BajaBruno - 12-29-2008 at 09:24 PM

I'm sure someone has already written this, but I would throw out the schedule. Take a good map, like David K. says, cruise around, and stop where it feels good.

On my first trip in 1985 I intended to go to Cabo, but I never made it past Mulege. I fell in love with the place and really didn't need to go further. I did go further, but not for a few years after that.

Just enjoy the people and the places and don't try to do the macro at the expense of the micro--there's always the next trip.

Bajahowodd - 12-29-2008 at 09:28 PM

All the helpful posts. But, seriously, it's too bad that Chiku didn't enlist the help earlier. The whale experience, as life altering as it may be, is something better encountered a bit later in the season. The whales have been arriving later each year. Really hope Chiku is able to encounter the magnificent critters.

Alan - 12-29-2008 at 09:48 PM

I'm glad Accudoc identified BoLA. The opportunity is slipping away quickly to catch a glimpse of Baja the way it was back in the days when many of us first fell in love with it.

AcuDoc - 12-29-2008 at 11:48 PM

Because I've been hanging out in San Carlos for the last few years I haven't been to Baja for 3 years. I haven't camped below San Lucas Cove for 2-3 years before that and can't wait to see La Ventana.

I'm sure I'll notice lots of changes along the way, even over the last 5 years.

Bajahowodd - 12-30-2008 at 12:15 AM

Progress

chiku - 12-30-2008 at 04:19 PM

Thanks again.
David I will try to get the map you mentioned. And for the return trip, I know that we will have to get down from the bus but it just might save standing for long time if there’s a long wait. Well.. that’s what I read somewhere. We will see how it goes.
We are not tied to the schedule, but it’s rather to have an idea of how much time we have to spend on this trip. We plan to be flexible thanks to some of your suggestions.
I’m sure we will have great time and hope to have some experience with whales. As I mentioned earlier, I know it’s rather early, but unfortunately that’s the time we have. Well, there is always next time. We are off tomorrow. I will surely write back once we are back.

David K - 12-30-2008 at 04:30 PM

We look forward to your detailed trip report! Please include both likes and dislikes as well as surprises or unexpected things that happen... It may be a negative during your trip, but those bad experiences sure make for some great story telling for years and years that follow!

Beware that you may catch BAJA FEVER... there is no cure... only treatment (like return trips south and reading Baja Nomad)!!!

[Edited on 12-30-2008 by David K]