BajaNomad

First Drive from Bay Area, CA to BCS...need advice

pacside - 1-2-2009 at 08:06 PM

OK so husband finally agreed to make the drive from our home in Northern California to our almost completed casa south of Todos Santos. We will be driving our 98' 4Runner and leaving it. We will be leaving sometime late Jan early Feb; thus an excellent opportunity to go whale watching with our 5 year old son.

Note: Esposo only has 8-9 days total (he has to get back to work) and wants to spend at least a few days at our new casa so we don't want to spend more than 4-5 days on the road once in baja. Hijo and I will stay on a bit longer. Of course we will only drive during daylight hours.

Since mi esposo has been so reluctant to make this drive I want to make this as stress free as possible for him so Nomads I am open to all suggestions on trip details like:

1. What is best border crossing to use?

2. Best place to buy auto insurance and obtain FMT's for esposo and hijo?

3. How/When/Where do I get MY FM3 stamped when driving across the border?

4. Affordable yet comfortable accommodations on U.S. side of border for our first nights stay. We will get up at daylight to cross border.

5. Assuming we leave at daybreak for border crossing what is a nice place to stay for first night in baja and how far should we plan on driving? and for 2nd night, 3rd night etc.

6. We want to go whale watching...how best to fit that in on our trip and where? do I need to make reservations?

7. Where to gas up and top off?

8. Other than whale watching, are there any other must sees for the esposo so he enjoys the trip and wants to do it again?

9. Anything else? All suggestions will be much appreciated.

If this goes off successfully Margaritas to all Nomads who can make it to our casa warming party when completed!!! Oh what the heck even if we have a few bumps in the road we'll still serve up free margs (esposo makes a mean marg) to all the nice nomads out there.

Thanks again to everyone...this board has been so helpful to me. I do love reading about everyone's experiences with baja.

pacside

[Edited on 1-6-2009 by pacside]

Gaucho - 1-2-2009 at 08:28 PM

Pacside, I guarantee there are no less than 10 people currently forming a response to your request...

larry - 1-2-2009 at 08:31 PM

I can answer one of your questions that will certainly eliminate one complication: get your auto insurance online. There are a number of sites--google "mexican auto insurance." There is no reason to make a stop on your trip to buy insurance.

[Edited on 1-3-2009 by larry]

oxxo - 1-2-2009 at 09:04 PM

Pacside, you are in for a real good experience, we love the drive. We do the drive in two days (border to Los Cabos). You may want to take a more leisurely pace. I would suggest crossing the border about 8 am. Gas up in Ensenada. Gas up at El Rosario, Baja Cactus service station. Spend the night in Guererro Negro, Los Caracoles. Gas up in GN. Gas up in Loreto. Gas up in La Paz. You wil reach TS in the late afternoon. The scenery is spectacular along the way. I don't recommend that you do the trip as fast as we do, but since you are on a limited schedule with your husband, it is very doable in 2 days from the border.

Pacside...

Mexray - 1-2-2009 at 09:29 PM

...We're from Stockton, and we usually leave in the evening around 9:00PM and head south.

We're able to get through the LA basin in the middle of the night to avoid traffic, and head right for the border at Tijuana in the wee hours of the morning.

As you cross the border, keep to your RIGHT and park in the in the area marked for those that have stuff to 'declare'...you'll see a number of small offices on your Right...

They are open 24/7 and you can get your FM-T permits from immigration, pay the fee at a bank booth, then back to immigration for final stamps...then you're off on your adventure in Baja!

We then usually take the toll road down to Ensanada, and by the time we ge through town, we stop at the Costco store on the south part of town...check out their great Shrimp c-cktail back in the meat dept...it's yummy!

After shopping, we then get right back on the road and head south and stop overnight in El Rosario at the great Baja Cactus Hotel, right next to the Pemix gas station where you'll have to fill up...It's a long overnight drive the get to El Rosario from Northen Calif, but we've done it many, many times and works out the easiest for us to avoid as much traffic as we can...

Plan on leaving El Rosario early the next morning to make it all the way down to the border with Baja Sur at Guerrero Negro, and fit in some Whale Watching...

You can take Whale Watching trips by signing up there in town, but we prefer to get back on Hwy 1, head south out of town till you see the Whale Watching sign, turn right and head out through the salt ponds to the area where you actually take the trips...you just sign up with the boat guides right there on the edge of the lagoon...there's a small restaurant and camping out there also...Driving down from El Rosario, and watching the whales, would probably take up the whole day...

You're on your own from there...have a safe trip...

woody with a view - 1-2-2009 at 09:37 PM

Quote:
You can take Whale Watching trips by signing up there in town, but we prefer to get back on Hwy 1, head south out of town till you see the Whale Watching sign, turn right and head out through the salt ponds to the area where you actually take the trips...you just sign up with the boat guides right there on the edge of the lagoon...there's a small restaurant and camping out there also...Driving down from El Rosario, and watching the whales, would probably take up the whole day...


insist on Capitan Leopoldo!!! he has a way with the whales. ask for him and wait an hour if you have to so you go out with him.;D

edit: then continue on to san ignacio and stay at ignacio springs bed and breakfast. you won't be disappointed. next day you could make TS in a LONG day.....

[Edited on 1-3-2009 by woody in ob]

vandenberg - 1-2-2009 at 09:50 PM

Congratulations on your house.
We have driven This Baja route for about 20 years or more.
Always do it by time, not distance. From Sacramento, roughly the same distance as from the Bay area, it takes 24 hrs minimum driving time. And that is to Loreto. From there you have another 4 to 5 hrs to La Paz, plus the time to TS. So roughly 30 hrs total. At the border at San Ysidro Ave to the west, there are motels in various price ranges. Gas up before you cross and then again at El Rosario. A must, since the next stretch for gas is a long one. Guerrero Negro has several decent places to stay nowadays, Los Caracoles being one.
You may want to do the next stretch in 2 days though and stay in Loreto. It's quite a haul from GN to TS in one stretch.
My opinion. Lots of places to stay in Loreto, no reservations needed. And if you decide to stop in Loreto, visit the newly opened La Mision hotel. Beautifully redone, right on the Malecon. And, with prices within reason.
Have a wonderful trip and maybe we get to meet you if you decide to stay in Loreto. Another thought: The second day you could do your whale watching. They have great trips out of Lopez Mateos, no reservations needed, and there are decent accommodations in Ciudad Constitution. Would save you a lot of backtracking.
Bien Viaje !!!

[Edited on 1-3-2009 by vandenberg]

[Edited on 1-3-2009 by vandenberg]

El Jefe - 1-3-2009 at 09:27 AM

Remember it is winter time and days are relatively short. Twelve hours at most for daytime driving. The trip from the border to your beautiful new casa (saw the pics, nice) is at least 20 hours. Considering you want to see whales, I would recommend that you cross at dawn, stopping right at the border as stated above for FM's etc., and then gun it for Guerro Negro. Stay at one of many hotels and do the whale watch thing the next morning. We stayed at Malarimo a few years back and took the Whale Watch tour offered by the little office right in their parking lot. They take you on a bus through the salt flats to the boats. Worked great for us. But the idea of taking the road south of town sounds good too.

After whale watching, I would drive south to maybe Loreto to spend night two. Then you can make it to your place mid afternoon on day three after stocking up on supplies in La Paz.

The house looks beautiful. Congrats. Now the hardest thing will be getting enough time to really enjoy it! Have fun.

Bajahowodd - 1-3-2009 at 12:15 PM

If you are concerned about conserving time and still see the whales, I recommend staying at Los Caracoles and booking with them. They will van you right to the pangas. A turnkey deal. If time wasn't involved, I'd suggest doing the whales at San Ignacio. Big time difference in going and coming.

And sadly, with the possible exception of Baja Cactus, I cannot foresee any need for reservations anywhere.

Anyone have any ideas about how well the bookings are going for the escorted whale tours this year? In better days, busloads would book up places such as Catavina. We were in San Ignacio last year. Stayed at Rice and Beans. When we came back from the lagoon and were heading north, I stopped in at the Desert Inn in San Ignacio. They called and booked us a room in Catavina. We arrived in Catavina just after sundown. The lobby was packed. several busses in the lot. We got our room. Other folks, not on the busses were forced to go across the street.

pacside - 1-6-2009 at 02:55 PM

Wow I really appreciate all the suggestions:

Larry - Yes will definitely buy auto insurance online. Maybe get the FMT's as well. I can do a search but I think folks have recommended Discover Baja.

Oxxo - Good info re all the places to gas up at. Seems the consensus of those who've responded is to cross border early and stay at Los Caracoles in Guerrero Negro and do whale watching there.

Mexray - I ran your idea of leaving the night before from the bay area at 9pm to cross border at dawn to the husband and to my surprise he liked that suggestion. Our son could sleep all night and wake up and enjoy the baja views. Appreciate your advice re where to park etc to get FMT's, pay at bank and so on. So if we stop at El Rosario and stay at Baja Cactus about how many hours drive is that from the border?

Woody in ob - OK so at Scammon's Lagoon near Guerrero Negro you recommend Capitan Leopoldo...sounds good. Then onto San Ignacio...

Vandenberg - ok so you suggest first night after crossing border stay at Los Caracoles in Guerrero Negro. The La Mision Hotel in Loreto sounds good...if we decide to do this we'll have to meet up and have a cold one. On your other thought about doing the whale watching out of Lopez Mateos you mention it would save a lot of backtracking. How does that save us backtracking?

El Jefe - 1st night at GN and do whale watching next day, then spend 2nd night in Loreto.

Bajahowodd - so by staying at Los Caracoles in GN and going whale watching there we can conserve time.

Thanks for all the suggestions above. So based on this info I put together 2 different itinerary's and would like any input as to what might be best considering we have a 5 year old, we want to whale watch and husband's goal is to leave Thursday night Feb 12 from the bay area and arrive at our casa on his birthday Sunday Feb 15 which would give us 2 nights total to stay at different places.


:dudette:
First itinerary:

1. Leave bay area at 9pm Thursday Feb 12...Will take ~9+ hours to reach border.

2. Park in the 'declare' lane and get esposo and hijo's FMT's stamped plus my FM3 stamped.

3. From the border gun it for Guerrero Negro and stay at Los Caracoles Friday Feb 13th.

4. Get up early and go whale watching at Scammon's Lagoon a bit south of GN. We may book it and take the van "turnkey" or drive it. Is it a difficult drive? We have a 98 4runner v6 4x4. Request Capitan Leopoldo as he is the best according to Woody.

5. After whale watching, drive to Loreto and stay at La Mision Hotel Saturday Feb 14th and have a cold one with Vandenberg.

6. Get up early, stock up in La Paz and reach Todos Santos by mid-afternoon on esposo's birthday Sunday February 15th.

Summary:
1st night stay at Los Caracoles in GN.
2nd night stay at La Mision hotel in Loreto.

Couple questions:

How many hours is it from the border to GN?

How many hours is it from the border to El Rosario?

How many hours should we plan on for whale watching out of GN?

2nd Itinerary:

1. Leave 9pm Thursday Feb 12 and park at border to get FM's, stamps etc.

2. Stay Friday night Feb 13th at Baja Cactus in El Rosario.

3. Get up early and go whale watching at Scammon's Lagoon near Guerrero Negro.

4. Continue on and stay at San Ignacio Springs B&B Saturday Feb 14th.

5. Make it to Todos Santos the next day but it is a long drive or stay somewhere on Sunday night the 15th. Issue is esposo wanted to arrive at our casa on the 15th.

Any feedback?

Oh and the gas up places are:

Ensenada
El Rosario (BajaCactus Service station)
Guererro Negro
Loreto
La Paz

Isn't there a place where a guy sells gas out of a barrel that we should top off too? where is that?

Thanks a bunch!
pacside

dtbushpilot - 1-6-2009 at 03:16 PM

Pacside, I knew that you would get more recomendations than you knew what to do with so I didn't bother to weigh in, any advise I could give was given more than adequately. The only topic that I didn't see covered was when is the house warming party, I'm sure there will be more than a few Nomads that would like to come, me and my lovely esposa included....

Congrats on a beautiful casa and have a safe trip....dt

Cypress - 1-6-2009 at 03:21 PM

Mulege is a nice place to spend some time in.:)

pacside - 1-6-2009 at 03:24 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Cypress
Mulege is a nice place to spend some time in.:)


Actually, I was thinking about spending a night at Bob and Susan's place...isn't that close to Mulege? It looks really nice and I would enjoy meeting them.

pacside

Bajahowodd - 1-6-2009 at 03:27 PM

pacside-
I don't think you're going to have to worry about buying gas from a barrel as long as you don't let it get too low. Catavina has a barrel guy. And the stretch from El Rosario to Villa Jesus Maria, which is about 1/2 hour North of Guerrero Negro. The other long stretch would be Constitucion to La Paz.

The border to gn is doable, but it is a long day. Depends on how fast you drive and how many times you get stuck behind big rigs in the mountains.

As for the whales. in GN, I gone out with Raul from Caracoles, and I've driven myself to the ejido. Problem with the ejido is depending on how busy they are (they only allow so many Pangas out at a time), you could have to sit and wait for up to a couple of hours. Raul takes people out at a different place in the lagoon, and he would be prepared so you wouldn't have to wait.

Now, with your mention of the Ignacio Spring B&B, here's a thought. First night El Rosario. second night San Ignacio. See the whales from there. You could arrange transportation or drive it. It is quite a bit longer drive than the drive to the ejido at Scammons. There are several outfits at the lagoon that will take you out. Leave early for the lagoon and you'll easily be able to make it to Loreto the same day.

pacside - 1-6-2009 at 03:28 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by dtbushpilot
Pacside, I knew that you would get more recomendations than you knew what to do with so I didn't bother to weigh in, any advise I could give was given more than adequately. The only topic that I didn't see covered was when is the house warming party, I'm sure there will be more than a few Nomads that would like to come, me and my lovely esposa included....

Congrats on a beautiful casa and have a safe trip....dt


:tumble:;D:lol::dudette: tks dt...well i first have to figure out where all the folks will do their 'bidness' and how to turn the lights on...no just kidding but I do need to figure out the utilities. Builder is currently assisting with that. I'm thinking sometime around May or June.

pacside

pacside - 1-6-2009 at 03:39 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Bajahowodd
pacside-
I don't think you're going to have to worry about buying gas from a barrel as long as you don't let it get too low. Catavina has a barrel guy. And the stretch from El Rosario to Villa Jesus Maria, which is about 1/2 hour North of Guerrero Negro. The other long stretch would be Constitucion to La Paz.

The border to gn is doable, but it is a long day. Depends on how fast you drive and how many times you get stuck behind big rigs in the mountains.

As for the whales. in GN, I gone out with Raul from Caracoles, and I've driven myself to the ejido. Problem with the ejido is depending on how busy they are (they only allow so many Pangas out at a time), you could have to sit and wait for up to a couple of hours. Raul takes people out at a different place in the lagoon, and he would be prepared so you wouldn't have to wait.

Now, with your mention of the Ignacio Spring B&B, here's a thought. First night El Rosario. second night San Ignacio. See the whales from there. You could arrange transportation or drive it. It is quite a bit longer drive than the drive to the ejido at Scammons. There are several outfits at the lagoon that will take you out. Leave early for the lagoon and you'll easily be able to make it to Loreto the same day.


Good suggestions. Oh I forgot to mention I get seasick so the shorter the panga ride the better for me. I also don't want to spend hours on a road to get to the whale watching place. How long is drive out to Scammons vs. drive out to San Ignacio? Also, is the drive pretty long to Lopez Mateo as well?

pacside

Bajahowodd - 1-6-2009 at 03:54 PM

Highway 1 to the ejido is about 15 miles. San Ignacio to lagoon about 40. The panga trips usually run two hours. Lopez Mateo is likewise about 30 miles, but it's paved. None of road to the ejido is, and probably 3/4 of the San Ignacio road is not paved. So it will greatly affect time spent. But, at that time of year, Mag Bay has less odds of a close up encounter.

One other thing-about gas. If you recall when they finished I-5 from Bakersfield to Tracy, opportunities to fill up were few and far between. Today, it's quite different. Except for the two stretches I mentioned in my last post, you just might be amazed at the surfeit of pemex stations. Pemex started franchising some years back. The result is that in some areas, San Quintin comes to mind, a Pemex station and a convenience store seems to be only blocks from the last one.

BajaNomad - 1-6-2009 at 03:54 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Bajahowodd
Anyone have any ideas about how well the bookings are going for the escorted whale tours this year?
I just returned from a trip - and along the way sat and spoke with Romualdo "Maldo" Fischer at his place in Laguna San Ignacio.

Maldo says reservations are way down - and getting worse, with many recent cancellations.

I'll have further details on this trip later. One surprise of the trip there - the first 10 KM of the road from San Ignacio to Laguna San Ignacio is now a paved highway. Maldo told me that it was completed this past year, and that the plan is to continue all the way down to San Juanico. Maldo seemed to think there was great $$$ interest (he mentioned "Televisa"???), and was convinced they'd have it completed to San Juanico within 4 years.

-
Doug

Bajahowodd - 1-6-2009 at 04:01 PM

Doug-
If that is true, you've made up my mind for this year. Was there mid-march last year and the paved section was about ten miles out of town. And there was no real evidence of any prep for additional construction.

My inquiry about escorted tours was sort of selfish. I wouldn't take one. Couldn't spend that much time in a bus. But I had some difficulties getting hotel rooms and even been on some long wait lines for pangas because of bus load(s) of folks. Don't resent them. God bless them for taking the opportunity for a thrill of a lifetime. Just get testy when they get in the way.

Bajahowodd - 1-6-2009 at 04:04 PM

And San Juanico is only about 30 miles to La Purisma. That done, there'd be two choices and would actually cut off time for folks headed to la Paz and South

BajaNomad - 1-6-2009 at 04:07 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Bajahowodd
Now, with your mention of the Ignacio Spring B&B, here's a thought. First night El Rosario. second night San Ignacio. See the whales from there. You could arrange transportation or drive it. It is quite a bit longer drive than the drive to the ejido at Scammons. There are several outfits at the lagoon that will take you out. Leave early for the lagoon and you'll easily be able to make it to Loreto the same day.


Actually, if you drive to Laguna San Ignacio, and are headed south of Constitucion - especially if you're driving a 4Runner - Just keep heading south through San Juanico, La Purisima, and Ciudad Insurgentes. Much faster time-wise going south. I left Laguna San Ignacio sometime around noon, stopped and chatted with an amigo at a fish camp along the way, cruised San Juanico a little bit, and got to Constitucion by about 6pm or so. If I had hurried, I might've even been to La Paz by then.

Just puttin' it out there is all....

...you miss the opportunity of seeing Santa Rosalia, Mulege, Bahia Concepcion and Loreto if you do this however.

-
Doug

Bajahowodd - 1-6-2009 at 04:13 PM

Waiting for a post from the Sea of Cortez side...

Seriously, the drive from Santa Rosalia to and through Loreto is something I wouldn't want you to miss. soon you'll be living down there, so the question will be how often you will actually make the drive from Pescadero to the border.

Skipjack Joe - 1-6-2009 at 04:13 PM

Some general suggestions and remarks:

1. It takes 2 people taking turns driving to drive nonstop from bay area to el rosario. The non driver should be sleeping on his 'off' time.

2. The drive from the border to el rosario is about 7 hours.

3. There's no way to leave the bay area on the 12th make it to t.s. by the 15th and enjoy a day of whale watching and drive only during daylight hours.

4. Your second plan seems better than the first.

pacside - 1-6-2009 at 04:15 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Bajahowodd
Highway 1 to the ejido is about 15 miles. San Ignacio to lagoon about 40. The panga trips usually run two hours. Lopez Mateo is likewise about 30 miles, but it's paved. None of road to the ejido is, and probably 3/4 of the San Ignacio road is not paved. So it will greatly affect time spent. But, at that time of year, Mag Bay has less odds of a close up encounter.

One other thing-about gas. If you recall when they finished I-5 from Bakersfield to Tracy, opportunities to fill up were few and far between. Today, it's quite different. Except for the two stretches I mentioned in my last post, you just might be amazed at the surfeit of pemex stations. Pemex started franchising some years back. The result is that in some areas, San Quintin comes to mind, a Pemex station and a convenience store seems to be only blocks from the last one.


Bajahowodd - Had to look in the dictionary to find out what surfeit meant...nice to know pemex stations are plentiful or per your terminology 'excessive'. Thanks for info re miles on paved vs not paved roads to various places.

I'm looking at my baja maps and looking at the miles to get from one place to another. So my big decision than is whether to gun it for GN after crossing border or settling in at BajaCactus in El Rosario after driving all night. So maybe a decision maker would be what is the better place to watch whales this time of year Scammons or San Ignacio?

pacside

pacside - 1-6-2009 at 04:26 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Skipjack Joe
Some general suggestions and remarks:

1. It takes 2 people taking turns driving to drive nonstop from bay area to el rosario. The non driver should be sleeping on his 'off' time.

2. The drive from the border to el rosario is about 7 hours.

3. There's no way to leave the bay area on the 12th make it to t.s. by the 15th and enjoy a day of whale watching and drive only during daylight hours.

4. Your second plan seems better than the first.


Skipjack - I'm just now figuring that out. I do not want to rush to GN after driving all night...plus we would end up driving at night and I definitely do not want to do that.

So BajaCactus hotel it is for first night.

Your #3 above is muy importante in ensuring we have a nice trip vs. a miserable trip. So it looks like we will spend 3 nights in baja. I do not want to miss the whale watching as I think it would be quite memorable for my son and us as well.

So suggestions on nights 2 and 3? San Ignacio B&B then La Mision Hotel in Loreto? or Mulege? I'm open to suggestions.

I wish mi esposo didn't have such a time crunch so we could spend more time seeing more of the sights and towns.

pacside

Bajahowodd - 1-6-2009 at 04:34 PM

I've been going yearly for a long time. don't just take my word for it, you can read up on it. Basically, there are more whales in Scammons (Ojo de Liebre). But the claim that the San Ignacio whales are friendlier, while seeming kooky, does seems to be real. We've petted whales at Scammons some years, but not every year. My first trip to San Ignacio, we out for about an hour and didn't come close. But the pangueros there communicate and share. All of a sudden we had a big mama and her calf. Spent probably with the calf just rolling around and under the boat. The critter seemed to enjoy being petted. The pangueros even name the calves. This guy was called Kobe. Shame of it is so many of these little guys fall prey to killer. whales on their first journey to Alaska. But that's nature.

Unfortunately, my schedule does not allow long stretch in Baja in the winter, so I'm typically looking at a three or four day weekend. Doing Guerreo Negro makes sense for me timewise. However, if the road from town to the lagoon is finished being paved, that would knock around 90 minutes off the roundtrip and make it easier for me. And I always enjoy Rice and Beans in San Ignacio.

[Edited on 1-6-2009 by Bajahowodd]