A trip back to BCS - finally !!!

With schedules finally aligning for the first time in a long time, Michelle, Ryland and I headed off to Baja for 8 days & nights on Saturday, Dec 27th.

It's the first opportunity we've had for a 7+ day trip in many years, and if we have that amount of time, we're goin' SOUTH. Baja California Sur to be exact.

Got my insurance through BajaBound.com's site online, stopped at San Ysidro to change some dollars into pesos (look for the highest peso value at the stores that say 'no comision' or 'no commision' on San Ysidro Blvd, EAST of I-805). I believe it was about 13.3 pesos per dollar that day.

We stopped at the SY border-crossing immigration office to get our Tourist Cards, and shortly thereafter we were on our way.... with one more quick stop - as FDT, along with daughters Sofia and Danielle graciously drove to meet us at the border as we headed south, and so we could drop off a few toys we had with us for the following weekend's event in Col. Lomas Taurinas for Dia de Reyes.

After visiting with FDT and family for a few minutes, we were again headed south - this time, first west along Av Internacional, then entirely along the toll-road to Ensenada.

Couldn't help but notice that new brand (of something) that's being advertised on almost all of the billboards along the way, especially in Rosarito.... maybe you've seen it? It says: "Disponible". It doesn' t look like business is good.

btw... I have not edited any of the pics in any way thus far other than to downsize them. I'm uploading somewhere around 140 pics out of 2000 taken between Michelle, Ryland and myself.... and most were taken by Michelle, with over 1500 off her memory cards. She kept snappin' away from the passenger's seat.


Pic: The new brand, "Disponible"

When we arrived in Ensenada, we were ready for some seafood... but first, I wanted a chance to see if I could take a picture or two from shore of the SS Catalina - and see in-person what's happening with the dismantling going on....

These pics are from late afternoon on Saturday, Dec 27th...

Notice the stack is already gone... and also in this pic, while things were quiet in Ensenada, it looked like these were tour boats (???) following a course around the bay, including coming by the Catalina...

SS Catalina, the Great White Steamer

So, after taking a few pics, it was off to eat... and we ended up at Mariscos Playa Azul... right next to Mariscos Bahia Ensenada on Av. Riveroll just off the main tourist shopping street, Lopez Mateos.

We like both of these restaurants, but tend to find the former being a little less expensive, and the latter having a little more extensive menu and a little more atmosphere.

The grilled veggies served with an order of Filete a la Plancha are always really good here, and I asked for some extra - which they brought me a fairly large plate of, and didn't charge me anything extra for. I tried a Bohemia Obscura - and this is either different, or I simply enjoyed it more than in years past. It was an excellent dark beer.

Michelle enjoying Mariscos Playa Azul...

After the restaurant, we pushed on through down Highway 1 to El Rosario. It looked like things were slow - and places were pretty empty - from Rosarito all the way down through San Quintin, and I thought, 'sure, we'll be able to show up at the Baja Cactus and get a room tonight... no problema'....

...and boy, even though I thought it might be slow, I still wasn't surprised to see the parking lot packed at the Baja Cactus. Oh my!

"Um, you wouldn't happen to have a room available, would you?" I cringed, expecting no for an answer.....

"Sí Señor. One room left ! ...in the economy rooms"

I'lllllllllll take it! I said.

Plenty cold, but enough hot water to work out well-enough all things considered.

Michelle begged for warmer weather. "We're headin' that way right now baby.... we're headin' that way..." I told her.

Here is Ryland in the morning on Sunday, all bundled up and ready to go!

I have to admit, but it's become a habit in El Rosario to head over in the morning to Baja's Best B&B for breakfast. Ryland likes the hotcakes, and frankly I look forward to the coffee.

Usually we're spoiled at the Baja Cactus, as the newer rooms have coffee makers, along with some quality stuff to brew in them... but we were absent that luxury in the economy room, and therefore the desire for coffee was fairly high.

I made sure to make a reservation (for a newer room) for our return date of the following Saturday, the night before the Dia de Reyes event in Tijuana.

At Baja's Best, Ed had a stove heating the place, which Ryland parked himself at when Ed got up to make breakfast.....

Breakfast before we head further south for the day....

[Edited on 1-12-2009 by BajaNomad]

And then, onward south !!!

Somehow, somewhere along the way, Ryland decided that his taking pictures.... and seeing Missions... were of importance to him, and so we obliged those interests a number of times. Here, a shot of Michelle off her camera from Ryland in the back seat...

Followed these guys only briefly... but there was a moment that I considered the (possible?) safety factor of hangin' out behind them for longer....

After passing the eagle on the 28th Par, we arrived at the immigration and agricultural stop. The gentleman manning the stop only asked us about produce, and waved us on. No questions about - or check of - our Tourist Cards, etc.

Now this one is one I'd like more information on. When we got to the military stop just north of San Ignacio, there was this signed stop just before. The sign says: "PUESTO DE REGISTRO VEHICULAR POLICIA MINISTERIAL DEL EDO DE B.C.S."

While it looked like he was collecting $$$ from Mexican nationals, he waved us - and the truck ahead of us - both through (and both having plates from the USA).

What are they doing and how long have they been doing this?

It was so cold/windy here on this day that he's not under the awning, but instead sitting in his truck and making people get out of their vehicles to come talk to (and/or pay) him.

Ryland and myself in front of Mission San Ignacio.

Michelle and Ryland inside the Mission...

And outside afterwards...

I really didn't allude to it, but not only is this trip about getting back south for Michelle and myself, it's getting Ryland exposure to those areas he hasn't been before and seeing how he takes to it, and what his interest level turns out to be.

Now, this is where we divert the norm.... and Hwy 1.

Wasn't sure if there were whales in La Laguna, but it didn't matter, as we were headin' out there anyway to see some folks (hopefully) that we hadn't seen for years. Then south through San Juanico, Cd. Constitucion, and on to La Paz (eventually).

...so, off we went to San Ignacio Lagoon. We went past Rene's (a restaurant), straight, then turned the right and left up the small hill that leads down the road to La Laguna... and it was there I was met with an incredible surprise....

...a paved highway. For how far, I had no idea, but we followed it as far as it went - which ended up being exactly 10 km. Then it was graded road the rest of the way. About as good as it's ever been - but still not that great.

The paved highway to Laguna San Ignacio:

[Edited on 1-12-2009 by BajaNomad]

A nice shot that Michelle took along the way to the lagoon... not sure how well it'll come out after formatting it to attach here.. but here goes...

I spent time many years back going out to see the whales with Cuco, from the home of Romualdo "Maldo" Fischer, and the last time I was out they were trying to make the most of their new camp farther down the lagoon. So, I wasn't sure what I'd find.

When we arrived out at Maldo's place, we were advised that he and wife Catalina had attended a funeral up in the Bahia Tortugas area (family member), but would be back later that same evening. I spoke with his son Roberto (?), and he said we could go down and camp next to the old palapa they'd put up before they built their newer, "Campo Cortez" further down the lagoon. I communicated that I hoped to have a chance to see Maldo and Catalina if possible before we - or he - left in the morning... and inquired further about Cuco (who is Maldo's brother). Roberto told me that Cuco was working most of the year at one of the fish camps that was about 40 km south of the lagoon. He even called him on what seemed to be some sort of radio-telephone (help here anyone on what they're using?) - and I let Cuco know we were coming through the following morning to find out if he was working or would be around.

We agreed to call Cuco back right before we left Maldo & Catalina's place the following morning.

..and then we drove down to the old palapa hut and setup for the night.

Pic: Ryland getting out of the truck upon arrival at Laguna San Ignacio

...and then checking out what remains of the sunset....

Here (the following morning - old palapa behind me), showing Ryland a map of the peninsula, and where we were on it - as he'd inquired with me.

...and then - I think - explaining about how the tides come in and go out so far at the lagoon.

When we made our way over to Maldo and Catalina's place in the morning, I was somewhat surprised, but they were waiting for us.

Catalina made us coffee, some quesadillas and eggs... and we spent much longer than I anticipated visiting with the two of them. Maldo told me about the de-salinization plant at the end of the lagoon (said it pumps about 8 gallons/minute of fresh water), told me that the paved road towards the lagoon had been put in over the past year, and that - this is what he told me - the highway would be paved within 4 years all the way to San Juanico. He said something along the lines of Televisa having big $$$ invested in San Juanico, and they were financing (or a big reason behind) the construction of the paved highway.

Oh, and for the record, he said there were only about 4-5 whales out in the lagoon, and they were males out in the mouth of the lagoon, not the mothers and calves inside the lagoon that make for the best whale-watching trips there.

His advice, FYI: come back and see them in mid-April when all the tourists have left, and the wind has died down, but most/many of the whales are still there.

Maldo told us that 80% or more of his whale-watching clientele was from the USA - and that reservations were waaaay down, and getting smaller, as they were receiving many cancellations. I believe he said it was the same for the other operators there as well. FYI - Maldo is a great resource down here, because he is either the only - or one of few - whale-watching guides that actually live at the lagoon full-time year-round.

I asked about his "Campo Cortez" - and he said that currently they have made it into an all-inclusive eco-friendly lagoon-front lodge, very close to the whales. All your food and bevs are included, along with a cabin for two, and a whale-watching trip - for $150/night/pp. I believe this is a little less than what it costs if you book through his main marketing partner Johnny Friday and Baja Eco Tours. You can read about Campo Cortez off the Baja Eco Tours website:
http://www.bajaecotours.com/whale-watching-sanignacio/accomm...

If anyone's interested, to book with Maldo directly, you can either call him, or send an email to him (they only check email so-often though):
(615) 103-0349 home tel
lagunamaldo (at) yahoo.com
[for email, remove the spaces above and replace (at) with an @ symbol]

He didn't say so, but I believe there are still more affordable prices ($60 or less) for those people that show up on their own at the lagoon and want to go whale watching. I remember when it was $25/pp, then $35/pp. Ahh, well. Progress.


Here we are visiting with Maldo in the morning...

And a picture for Ryland with Maldo...

Maldo gave us a very precise map to find Cuco 40 km south. - and so we wouldn't pass his fish camp, Cuco met us out in the middle of the desert on the top of a small mesa.

In visiting with Maldo longer than anticipated, by the time we got down to see Cuco, we became somewhat time-limited (urgh!). We visited with Cuco, and met his wife, and two young kiddos, Jane and Fortunato (Fortunado?) out on that mesa. Cuco also gave me his email address, and asked when we'd return. I felt absolutely horrible that we didn't spend more time with Cuco and his family, and that I wasn't able to tell him we'd definitely be back in the next few months (to go whale-watching, but to also get a chance to visit with him more).

Pic: with Cuco up on the mesa; south of Laguna San Ignacio.

Cuco's wife and two children...

Doug, Ryland, Cuco & Fortunato...

So, after visiting with Cuco for what seemed way too short of time, we said our goodbyes and Michelle, Ryland and I continued our journey even further south.

I find it amazing that we took not a single picture of the salt flats that I love driving on in this area, but again have some pics from where the road starts heading back inland and then as we got closer to San Juanico.

Here, the road later on...

They had a military stop out on this road not too far north of San Juanico, and just past the military stop we came up on a couple of men from San Juanico whose truck was stopped in the road. When we inquired if they needed help, they told us they were out of gas...

...so we spotted Javier and friend a couple of gallons to get back to San Juanico:

[Edited on 1-12-2009 by BajaNomad]

Here, the San Juanico Weather Station is looking, well, a bit "weathered":

I seldom hear it mentioned, but San Juanico is one of few actual towns located along the Pacific coast of the Baja peninsula that is actually exposed to the open ocean. Many of the others have some sort of natural protection from the open ocean - a bay, a sandbar, or they've set the main part of town in and away from the coastal area.... but where the town is located, it doesn't really apply here.

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Heading south out of San Juanico on the way to the La Purisima-Insurgentes highway, we must've been passed by a dozen of these dump trucks (picture below) headed the opposite direction (at about 5pm).

Oh, the road headed south out of San Juanico is a paved 2-lane highway now for about 8 miles. Looks like it might've gone about 10 miles or so originally, but there appear to be some washouts of the new road already.

Still one main water crossing, located just off the La Purisima-Insurgentes highway...

...here, wet, but TOO high anyway...

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We got into Ciudad Constitucion just as it was about to get dark, and decided to find a place to stay there for the night. While I've looked at rooms in town before when I was keeping the escapist.com site up:
http://www.escapist.com/baja/constitution.htm

...I've never actually spent a night in Constitucion - until now.

And at a place I had NOT seen before - possibly it wasn't here at that time either, I don't know. We stayed at the Hotel Oasis - if for no other reason(s) than I heard it was clean and a good value - and they had free WIRELESS INTERNET in the rooms.

All true. Don't hesitate to stay here. I think it worked out to be something around US$35/night/double - and the Internet there ran very well for me.

When we were up in Laguna San Ignacio I had noticed at one point some fluid on the inside of the front-left wheel well of the Tacoma, but didn't think much else about it other than it being something I had driven in that had splashed up.

When we got to Constitucion, when I filled up at the Pemex, I looked again, and it was all over the place now, and there was now fluid down the left side underneath the truck. My assessment in looking at it was that it couldn't have been much else other than the shock or the brake line - and I was trying to tell the source from the spray pattern - to no avail.

Later that night, I posted to the forum here requesting a referral to a mechanic either in Constitucion, or since the truck was driveable, somewhere between there and La Paz - where we were heading next - and was referred by Longlegsinlapaz to Dario, whom I found the next day. Here was my request that day:
http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=36132

To make a long story short, Dario took me to two auto repair shops - and neither one could determine the source of the fluid - which was visible to them.

I knew my motor oil level was good, and the brake fluid level was still good - and even if it was the shock, it was very driveable. So, I thanked Dario (and thank you Longlegsinlapaz for the referral), and we were on our way south once again.

Here, in the Hotel Oasis room checking email (and later, the BajaNomad forums):

We drove south last week all the way to Los Cabos. We stopped in GN for fuel at the Pemex in town in the late afternoon. I was talking to the attendent when two large military trucks full of soldiers drove through town out toward the estuary. The attendent told me that they were looking for "mala gente" from Tijuana. He said there had been a lot of suspicious Mexican strangers in town recently. Quien sabe

We also had to pass through three Federale blockades (not military) between GN and La Paz. They were waving all the US plated cars through but stopping all the Mexican cars. They were obviously looking for someone(s) in particular.

Interesting trip report, sorry that Dario couldn't fix your problem, but if 3 different mechanics (so far) couldn't it sounds like you musta had a somewhat unique problem! At least you were able to continue on your trip....unlike Diver & family.

Twelve Years ago... what a nice trip you had!