BajaNomad - Guerrero Negro report & more questions

Guerrero Negro report & more questions

gypsysoulcindy - 2-4-2009 at 10:07 PM

I enjoyed reading all the posts on here while I prepared for my last trip, so I thought I'd follow-up with a quick report.
We traveled to Guerrero Negro with our kids (age 4 & 7) over New Year's weekend. We made it from San Diego to Guerrero Negro in one LONG day of driving, and pulled in after driving the last hour in the dark. We crossed the border at 6:00am on New Year's day and Tijuana was a ghost town. The immigration office looked deserted, so I told my husband that we could just get our touist cards in Ensenada. That turned out to be a more expensive decision. They add on a fine if you don't get them at the border.
We stayed at Malarrimo's in GN. It was cheap (about $40ish) for a decent, but older room, with dust bunnies hiding in the corners. We ate at the restaurant, which I know is well-loved, but we didn't enjoy too much. It was fine, but maybe we ordered the wrong thing. The whale tour that they offered was booked, so the next morning, we drove on our own out to Ejido Benito Juarez. The drive was easy to make and well-signed. We payed our $40 each at the very nice visitor center and went out with Leopoldo. It was very early in the season (Jan. 2nd) so they told us that there weren't very many whales....what a wonderful experience for not having that many whales! We had LOTS of sightings and I even touched a whale that came up and bumped into our boat. We camped out there by the lagoon that night and in the morning, we went back into town. We had a WONDERFUL lunch at Santo Remedio's. What a beautiful restaurant too! The food was pretty, the waiter was friendly and helpful, and we really enjoyed the seafood. On our way home we stayed at Los Jardines in San Quintin. It was really new and nice and again, cheap. It was $35 for a room with 2 double beds. Their restaurant was also nice and had great food. The guy at the hotel warned us that since it was the weekend, we'd probably hear the music from the restaurant until late into the night, but we didn't hear anything.
It was a great, but fast trip and now we're headed back and this time we're taking 2 other families with us!
We're headed out in 3 weeks and we're adjusting our plan a little. Let me know of any suggestions:
1. Cross border and drive to Catavina. Stay at Desert Inn.
2. AM - head to Guerrero Negro, shop for supplies, eat lunch at Santo Remedio, and head out to camp at Ejido Benito Juarez - camp for 2 nights there
3. AM - leave GN and drive to Los Jardines in San Quintin, explore out at the Old Mill in the afternoon
4. AM - head back to border and either stop for breakfast at Rey del Sol in Ensenada or eat lunch at one of the winery restaurants on way to Tecate (any recommendations?)

I was wondering if anyone knows if they have an age limit for the boats? My brother & sister-in-law are coming and have a one year old. Will they let her come on the boat too? or will one of the adults have to sit out with her?
Also, how late in the afternoon do they give tours in the pangas?

Thanks!!
Cindy

DianaT - 2-4-2009 at 10:42 PM

Cindy,

Can't go wrong with Jardines or San Remedio and camping out at Ojo de Liebre is wonderful. Oh, do remember the restuarant at Jardines is closed on Mondays.

The Desert Inn in Catavina is nice---quite pricey, but it is in the middle of nowhere. In the restuarant, you might want to ask for the menu in Spanish if you want a little cheaper meal. Food is good, however, not great, but OK.

Don't know about the one year old. But we have gone out to whale watch in the late afternoon at that lagoon---whales were not as active and it was quite windy, but we loved listening to their communication sounds and we were the only ones in the panga other than the two panga operators. The only problem was they asked us to sit up front and then drove back in over the very rough water very fast which was really hard on the old backs.

We really like Ojo de Liebre, but sometime in the future, you might also try San Ignacio and Bahia de Magdelena---they are all different, and they are all quite great.

Have a great time---

Diane

[Edited on 2-5-2009 by jdtrotter]

Bajahowodd - 2-5-2009 at 12:27 AM

I second the idea of trying San Ignacio. Of course , if you are camping, any recomendations about where to stay is moot. There is a Desert Inn at San Ignacio. Also, Ricardo's / Rice and Beans is a great alternative, with perhaps the best restaurant in town. I can say from personal experience that the whale experience in Laguna San Ignacio is the best opportunity to pet the creatures.

On the way home, if you plan breakfast in Ensenada, I have two favorites. You cannot go wrong for breakfast at Las Cazuelas on Sanguines. It is a local favorite and has a welcoming atmosphere. They even have an appetizer with breakfast- choose between soup or quesedilla. It can be SRO on weekends. Also, Mi Kaza, which has little ambience, serves the heartiest breakfast in town.

gypsysoulcindy - 2-5-2009 at 08:10 AM

Thanks for the advice. I'd love to go to San Ignacio sometime, but I think it'll have to be on a longer trip. We have a 6 hour drive before we even get to the border, so with my little guys, we're really really pushing it to get to Guerrero Negro. I think that little extra bit just pushes it over the edge and is just not feasible. Maybe sometime when we can break it up more and take a week off, but not this trip!

Thanks for the breakfast recommendation too! I've always loved Rey del Sol, both the food and ambience. It's probably a good idea to try something new.

shari - 2-5-2009 at 08:14 AM

hey soul sister...no problema with 1 year olds...whale moms like to look at our babies too...so hold her out over the panga...one time a lady held out her baby so she could pee over the edge of the panga and a whale came up right under here and well...it was kinda like a bidet...cleaned her bottom...sure was funny.
You may want to bring her own life jacket though so it fits her well. Hey, a bunch of nomads will be camping the last weekend of february there for my birthday extravaganza...maybe we'll see ya there! Dinner at Santo Remedio of course.

KurtG - 2-5-2009 at 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by shari
hey soul sister...no problema with 1 year olds...whale moms like to look at our babies too...so hold her out over the panga...one time a lady held out her baby so she could pee over the edge of the panga and a whale came up right under here and well...it was kinda like a bidet...cleaned her bottom...sure was funny.
You may want to bring her own life jacket though so it fits her well. Hey, a bunch of nomads will be camping the last weekend of february there for my birthday extravaganza...maybe we'll see ya there! Dinner at Santo Remedio of course.

Shari,
Kathy and I are planning to be there that weekend. We're leaving home early AM on 2/26 and should be in GN by midday Friday/27th. Planning on a day of whale watching and then have to head home Sunday. This will be my shortest Baja trip ever but Kathy hasn't been whale watching before and we have to work around her schedule. I'll be visiting Asuncion on a Moto trip in March and then we will be doing a driving trip after Semana Santa. We look forward to seeing you and Juan again and using the new campground.

pacside - 2-5-2009 at 02:02 PM

SoulSeesta,

thanks for the trip report. We're headed down to GN to go whale watching as well in a week. Glad to hear you had a nice experience with El Capitan. That is who I'm hoping to get...so based on your experience you think it is best to just make the drive in yourself and book it once you get to the lagoon?

Wow so you drove 6 hours to get to the border then another what 11-12 hours to to GN? with two young kids? Not sure we're going to be able to do that. Glad you had fun.

pacside

schwlind - 2-5-2009 at 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bajahowodd
I second the idea of trying San Ignacio. Of course , if you are camping, any recomendations about where to stay is moot. There is a Desert Inn at San Ignacio. Also, Ricardo's / Rice and Beans is a great alternative, with perhaps the best restaurant in town. I can say from personal experience that the whale experience in Laguna San Ignacio is the best opportunity to pet the creatures.

On the way home, if you plan breakfast in Ensenada, I have two favorites. You cannot go wrong for breakfast at Las Cazuelas on Sanguines. It is a local favorite and has a welcoming atmosphere. They even have an appetizer with breakfast- choose between soup or quesedilla. It can be SRO on weekends. Also, Mi Kaza, which has little ambience, serves the heartiest breakfast in town.

I agree about Las Cazuelas. Another place we really enjoy for breakfast is the Mission. Sometimes the service is a little slow, but we've never been disappointed with the food and depending upon how busy they are, you may even be able to get a table that will give you a view toward the harbor.

Enjoy!
Linda

Fred - 2-5-2009 at 03:28 PM

A place I like for breakfast on the way back is Cafe Jalisco in Maneadero

shari - 2-5-2009 at 03:52 PM

oh cool...maybe see ya pacside on saturday at the lagoon then! I like breakfast after whale watching right at the lagoon restaurant there....get to watch whales while eating chilaquiles!
If you want a certain captain...it depends how the roll goes...they have a roll list and take turns taking trips out and also depends on the team working that week...Flacco rocks! (leopoldo) or if you can get a guy named Pelo Bello...he's the bomb.

BajaNuts - 2-5-2009 at 05:24 PM

Maybe pacside is reading a wrong on the time line???
San Diego to GN shouldn't be more than 10-12 hours and SD is right on the border?

I drove from north of LA (little town at the top of the pass, south of Lebec, starts with a "G", don't remember the name) to GN in one LONG day. Left the top of the pass at 4am, hit the border at 8am, sailed through and arrived in GN around 6:30pm

Don't recommend that long of a drive, but I was by myself. You'd never make it that long with kids.

Bajahowodd - 2-5-2009 at 05:31 PM

Exactly. The kids aren't able to handle being confined that long. I've driven from Cabo to Orange County with one stopover in San Ignacio. I was a zombie arriving at home.

tripledigitken - 2-5-2009 at 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bajahowodd
Exactly. The kids aren't able to handle being confined that long. I've driven from Cabo to Orange County with one stopover in San Ignacio. I was a zombie arriving at home.

If you took the bus you could have slept the whole way! :lol:

Ken

pacside - 2-5-2009 at 05:38 PM

shari - we are planning on ww at gn on sat feb 14th. is that when you will be there? would be way cool if we were there at same time. mi esposo's bday is feb 15th. thanks for the heads up on the great panga drivers. so i guess we'll just drive out there and hope for the best without reservations.

bajanuts - i think i have the time right...at the tijuana border it takes about 10-11 hours to get to gn right? we are leaving the bay area, ca 9pm and crossing border in the early a.m. and i think trying to get to gn the next day would be quite a stretch with a 5 year old. so was planning on staying el rosario (bajacactus never returned my email re reservations) but then it is quite a drive the next day to gn right? i wanted to do the ww in the morning as i get sea sick and want to do it before the winds kick in. also to top matters off san ignacio b&b at the last minute didn't have a room for us so we'll stay somewhere else i guess. maybe we'll just wing it the whole way and figger it out as we go. sometimes the freedom of not having reservations anywhere is nice.

pacside

Diver - 2-5-2009 at 05:44 PM

With a 5 year old, do not get the "loft" rooms at Bajacactus, 206/208
I did it with my 7 year old and the ladder will drive you nuts ! :lol:

DO stay in one of the newer rooms if possible; there is a big difference !

DianaT - 2-5-2009 at 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by pacside
but then it is quite a drive the next day to gn right?

pacside

It takes us approx. 4-5 hours to get to GN from El Rosario--depending on how many times we stop.

pacside - 2-5-2009 at 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Diver
With a 5 year old, do not get the "loft" rooms at Bajacactus, 206/208
I did it with my 7 year old and the ladder will drive you nuts ! :lol:

DO stay in one of the newer rooms if possible; there is a big difference !

Thanks Diver for the VERY important recommendation. My 5 year old would drive me bonkers with that ladder...I can just picture it. He climbs on everything regardless of the fear factor.

I would like to stay in one of the newer rooms IF they would confirm reservations with me. Maybe I should pick up the phone and call...email isn't working.

Someone recommended Baja best as well. So maybe that as a back up.

pacside

Diver - 2-5-2009 at 06:42 PM

Mama's is next door to Bajacactus and is another back-up.
Cactus seems to fill up with walk-ins between 4 and 6pm each day.
They were only booked full on the weekends last month; after 4pm.

Bajaboy - 2-5-2009 at 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by BajaNuts

I drove from north of LA (little town at the top of the pass, south of Lebec, starts with a "G", don't remember the name) to GN in one LONG day. Left the top of the pass at 4am, hit the border at 8am, sailed through and arrived in GN around 6:30pm

Gorman

gypsysoulcindy - 2-5-2009 at 09:06 PM

Thanks for all the info!
Pacside, yes, it was too much driving for one day with the kiddos, so that's why we're stopping in Catavina this trip. We had driven from the San Luis Obispo area south to San Diego (about 6 hours) and spent the night there. Then we left in the am, crossed the border at 6am at San Ysidro in Tijuana and got into GN at 6pm. That was with an hour and a half stop in Ensenada to get our tourist cards and an hour stop in San Quintin at the taco shacks for lunch and a leg wiggle.
We didn't have reservations for anything and just winged it, but then again, it wasn't high whale season yet. Leopoldo told me that in February, the beach out there is "puro gente" because so many people come to see the whales. That made me nervous and so this time I made a reservation for the morning on Saturday.
Shari - I'll look for the nomad group around town or out at benito juarez's. We'll be easy to spot. We use sign language with our little one and there will be 3 other kids running wild at our site.
How full does it get anyhow? Will we be able to find somewhere to camp on a Friday afternoon?
Thanks!

gypsysoulcindy - 2-5-2009 at 09:18 PM

Shari - thanks for the laugh about the whale showering the baby! I told my sister-in-law and she thought she'd stick to wipies, but it's good to know that the babies are welcome on board and that the whales like them too! Hahaha

David K - 2-5-2009 at 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by pacside

Quote:

Originally posted by Diver
With a 5 year old, do not get the "loft" rooms at Bajacactus, 206/208
I did it with my 7 year old and the ladder will drive you nuts ! :lol:

DO stay in one of the newer rooms if possible; there is a big difference !

Yes, you can call Baja Cactus Motel from anywhere... the phone number is on the web site U.C. page bajacactus.com... about $30-$35 excellent rooms... services...

Baja's Best Bed & Breakfast is very nice and about $60... far southbound end of town.

Across from Baja's Best is the new TURISTA MOTEL... super comfortable beds, real good shower, new... was $25 on 1-2-09 See photos in my trip report. Baja Cactus was full and they sent us to Turista. A restaurant there is under construction. Baja's Best retaurant is excellent, across the street.

I have seen the rooms at Espinoza's (Las Cabañas) and the Sinahi... and would say only go there if the above three locations are all full.

BajaDanD - 2-5-2009 at 09:29 PM

We are heading down on the 19th of Feb. we leave Prescott Az at midnight of the 18th drive to Tecate by 6:00 am drive straight through to GN and out to the lagoon to camp. We have done this a bumch of times. we've even made it in time to catch the last panga out for the day.
One time we got there just in time to go out on the last boat. We had this whale come up to the boat, let us touch it. It would not leave. We could'nt leave either because the captain would not put the boat in gear while the whale was that close. When ever the whale would sink away the Captain would try to slowly back away but the whale would come around the boat and stop us. It had its head out of the water and against the boat. It would drop down and come up on the other side for more. Then it would sink away and we would try to back away but the whale would stop us again. This went on for really long time. It was getting late and we were supposed to have been back already. Finally he tricked the whale into thinking we were going one way and turned and went the other way before it could get in front of us. It was almost dark when we got in.

BajaNuts - 2-5-2009 at 09:42 PM

Gorman, yes, that's the "town"...

...(thanks)-

I was only questioning the "6 hours from San Diego to the border" reference.

Sounds like a great trip, with a break in the border to GN leg.

Have loads of fun and post a follow-up

gypsysoulcindy - 2-5-2009 at 09:48 PM

Hey BajaNuts,
I think Pacside was referring to my post where I said that we had 6 hours to drive before we even got to the border. We live north of San Luis Obispo, CA, so it's 6 hrs. to SD and then if you take out our stops, it took us 10 hours of driving to GN.

Also, what mexican insurance company do you guys recommend? What a confusing mess it is to try to decipher on a google search.

Thanks!
Cindy

BajaWarrior - 2-5-2009 at 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by gypsysoulcindy
Hey BajaNuts,
I think Pacside was referring to my post where I said that we had 6 hours to drive before we even got to the border. We live north of San Luis Obispo, CA, so it's 6 hrs. to SD and then if you take out our stops, it took us 10 hours of driving to GN.

Also, what mexican insurance company do you guys recommend? What a confusing mess it is to try to decipher on a google search.

Thanks!
Cindy

I use DiscoverBaja(.com)

They can issue FM-T's as well, but you must still valitdate them at the border...

Also look at BajaBound at header above.

Paulina - 2-6-2009 at 09:00 AM

Hi Cindy,

Welcome to the board. We're neighbors. Please check your u2u in the upper right hand corner.

Saludos!
P<*)))>{

David K - 2-6-2009 at 09:20 AM

Quote:

Here's the lowdown on Mexican Insurance Agents I recommend...

1) http://www.BajaBound.com supports Baja Nomad (see their banner ad at the top of the Nomad page). You buy online and print your policy at home... no stopping on your trip. I have used them many times for short trips south when I didn't have an annual policy. The owners are Baja Nomads ('BajaGeoff') and he is very resonsive to any issues. Online quotes available.

2) Discover Baja Travel Club sells insurance to its members... giving discounted rates for annual policies with a company that pays for repairs to be made in the USA instead of Mexico. The owners are also very responsive to their members needs, and are good folks I have known for years.
Online quotes and purcases available... office in San Diego. My annual policy is with them... If you go to Baja for more than 2-3 weeks a year, an annual policy is cheaper than a daily policy for that many days. http://www.discoverbaja.com

3) Lewis & Lewis online, no membership at http://www.mexicanautoinsurance.com While I have never used them, so many have reported good things about this company and 'Bedman' did extensive comparisons a few years ago, and found the Lewis and Lewis sold policies offered the most bang for the buck... their agent on the phone was the most informative and helpful, he said.

Bajahowodd - 2-6-2009 at 11:58 AM

Thing I like best about BajaBound is that after using them once, all the relevant info is stored. So, each time I'm starting on a trip, all I have to do is fill in the dates, and print out the Dec page.

elgatoloco - 2-6-2009 at 12:22 PM

You will save mucho tiempo getting visa at border. If lot side office looks closed walk thru and turn right and head to where walkers enter Mexico for main office. Muy facil y rapido.

We also utilize BajaBound for daily trips in the wife's car. Easy to use on line and the owner seems like a nice guy!