BajaNomad

No There There

Osprey - 4-11-2009 at 03:53 PM

No There There


At the risk of being accused of Clinton speak I will try to explain why you cannot explain what Lower California is today to a lot of people who live there, vacation there. The reason it is hard is that it is not one place but many. If you should mention the name or names of those parts of it, parts of Mexico you will be visiting soon by car, boat, air, often the listener will make a funny face. The listener smells chorizo, exhaust fumes and gun powder. That’s when you say “No, compa, this year I’m going to another place down there.”

“Okay, be very careful down there.”

“No, not there, another place.”

There really is no one to ask about the places because their perspectives give a natural bias. Cabeños would rebuff you if you said there were too many tourists in San Lucas.

“Not in my barrio. I never see touristas in this little place.”

If you complained about air pollution to Mulegeñas they would just laugh at you. Ask a Loreteña about the crime and they will tell you it’s a crime they lose so many big yellowtail breaking lines.

Don’t bother to ask about big crowds and loud music at San Rogue and you might find it curious that the single camper at Santispac looks lonely way down at the end of the beach. Bahia de Los Angeles has grown from a camp to a village to a small city but the place is now overflowing with people who want you to enjoy every hour spent around that wonderful bay.

You will meet gringos and Mexicans at Estero Beach who have never been further south than Maneadero -- they will tell you they have no real good reason to go south. They have everything one could need right here, right now. The artists, the healers, the gurus you might encounter in Todo Santos love the light, the serenity of their village – most don’t venture far. They do not want to risk breaking the lines of harmony that surround the pueblo. You will hear no complaints about the lack of box stores from the quiet ones at Punta Bufeo and although you might curse the washboard roads at East Cape you might encounter those who hope the roads get worse.

It truly is a place of wonder and mystery. Just ask the old ones in the ranchos hidden in the canyons. They will tell you that they are also curious and would love, before they die, to go down the mountain, find these magic places and wear a smile just like the one you wore as you spoke of them.

Iflyfish - 4-11-2009 at 04:15 PM

There are many Mexico's indeed. Many.

Thanks again Osprey.

Iflyfish

Pescador - 4-11-2009 at 06:30 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Osprey
No There There

It truly is a place of wonder and mystery. Just ask the old ones in the ranchos hidden in the canyons. They will tell you that they are also curious and would love, before they die, to go down the mountain, find these magic places and wear a smile just like the one you wore as you spoke of them.


When I was much younger I used to travel the backcountry between Rocky Point (Puerto Penasco) and Guaymas. Not only were there the Seris who I never really got to know very well due to the language, but there were the back country ranchers. At first it was pretty intimidating when you came to a rancho and the man came out wearing a six gun tied to his side, but pretty soon you found the people who lived away from the hustle and bustle were very much like the cowboys of old. They wanted to hear of the outside and in exchange they woud share a little of their world which could best be experienced through their eyes.

[Edited on 4-12-2009 by Pescador]

Paula - 4-11-2009 at 09:26 PM

Thank you Osprey.

CaboRon - 4-12-2009 at 08:51 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by Iflyfish
There are many Mexico's indeed. Many.

Thanks again Osprey.

Iflyfish