BajaNomad - hole in kayak...

hole in kayak...

Bob and Susan - 7-13-2009 at 11:41 AM

we've got a hole in the scag area of a plastic kayak...

what do you think we should patch it with???

susan is in the states and can bring back anything... :light:

it's kinda on a corner :?:

Russ - 7-13-2009 at 11:50 AM

Marinetex

gnukid - 7-13-2009 at 12:40 PM

You could try a glue gun if its plastic.

Bajahowodd - 7-13-2009 at 12:50 PM

There are several marine epoxies that can be purchased at a place like Home Depot. They are designed to withstand salt water. I don't know how they fare with plastic, but you can read the label.

Sharksbaja - 7-13-2009 at 12:59 PM

First you need to find out if it's a plastic that is glueable. PE for example cannot be. Try some acetone or MEK or toluene on a small hidden spot.

If that attacks the plastic and you can dig a fingernail into it then get a vinyl glue and some similar plastic to make the patch. If glue does not touch the surface you will need to "weld" it shut. A hot knife and some melted PE. Good luck!

comitan - 7-13-2009 at 01:11 PM

Sharks has a very good comment on this repair.

http://www.plentypupule.com/weldkit.htm

[Edited on 7-13-2009 by comitan]

vandy - 7-13-2009 at 02:27 PM

Stuff you might be able to find in Mulege:
Marine Goop
Plumber'a Goop

Silicone and epoxy don't stick to the polyethylene well.
Plastic welding, as in the link above, is the best way, but Marine Goop is a lot easier

Actually....

Sharksbaja - 7-13-2009 at 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by vandy
Stuff you might be able to find in Mulege:
Marine Goop
Plumber'a Goop

Silicone and epoxy don't stick to the polyethylene well.
Plastic welding, as in the link above, is the best way, but Marine Goop is a lot easier

Things like tape, glue will "stick" to PE but will not adhere. I remember Dow Chem offering a million bucks to the genius who could invent an adhesive for it. THat was 40 years ago! :lol:

I doubt it is PE but it's easy to check.

comitan - 7-13-2009 at 02:59 PM

Bob

here's another site.

http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/380769/howtofix_a_t...

Cypress - 7-13-2009 at 02:59 PM

Marinetex. :bounce:

comitan - 7-13-2009 at 03:05 PM

Marinetex

Love the stuff, but won't stick to that plastic :no:

tripledigitken - 7-13-2009 at 03:31 PM

Have you tried contacting the boat maker through their website for repair information?

Ken

spelling again.

[Edited on 7-13-2009 by tripledigitken]

comitan - 7-13-2009 at 03:43 PM

Ken

Why do you have to be so reasonable. :light:

maspacifico - 7-13-2009 at 04:31 PM

The manufacturer will tell you to get a piece of the material the things made of, heat both the piece and the edges of the hole with a plastic welding tool with adjustable heat, and seal it up. It's scary how fast the kayak melts if you don't have an adjustable plastic welding gun, I don't, and like I said it's scary. If the spot isn't too big and in a non stressed area I would use marine goop (silicone) and it will hold up for a long time. I've had one that had a hole in one of the scuppers and it's still going after nine years.

shari - 7-13-2009 at 04:39 PM

I vote for hot knifing!!!!!! :coolup:

mtgoat666 - 7-13-2009 at 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bob and Susan
we've got a hole in the scag area of a plastic kayak...

what do you think we should patch it with???

susan is in the states and can bring back anything... :light:

it's kinda on a corner :?:

the solution probably involves heat weld if it is PE or HDPE. ask mfg how to weld it. break in corner indicates stress, so you will want to weld it well instead of a half-baked weld that won't stand the stress that led to original break.

Crusoe - 7-13-2009 at 04:49 PM

Bob... You did not specify which type of plastic your kayak is constructed out of and you need to repair. The three most common materials are, Linear Polyethelene, Fiberglass, and Carbon Fiber. By the looks of the pic. it most likely is P.E.. The process is called rotomoldied construction. Its the most poular and cheapest. If it is, the best method is a weld job. You can buy "weld" repair stiks and kits at stores where they sell alot of rotomolded boats. Like Sportsmans Warehouse, or West Marine. Marine Tex is a good product also, and can be used very successfuly if it is fiberglass. Carbon Fiber requires a carbo fiber repair kit. Not a big deal to fixit. Good luck. ++C++

Beachgirl - 7-13-2009 at 04:54 PM

What ever happened to duct tape? I broke my arm last week and duct tape fixed it right up! Spit and Glue?

Russ - 7-13-2009 at 05:03 PM

I still say marinetex. It may not "bond" to the plastic persay (sp) but if you put it inside and out it should work well. After you've got it in there wet your hand/fingers and smooth it to the shape you want.

805gregg - 7-13-2009 at 05:34 PM

You need some of the material the kayak was made from, most are roto molded polyetheline, then you can repair with a small torch and putty knife. Kayak stores will have cut outs where they installed hatches etc.

Bob and Susan - 7-13-2009 at 05:39 PM

its a $400 pelican plastic sit on top kayak

i could take a piece of plastic from another sit-in kayak we have and try that

what if i melt the plastic and drip it in he area???

susan is looking for marine tex as we speak

Bob and Susan - 7-13-2009 at 07:52 PM

that sounds goood...

BajaDanD - 7-13-2009 at 09:45 PM

dripping melted plastic onto the crack will not work unless its flaming while dripping and stays lit for a few seconds after it lands. The plastic where its cracked has to be melted also.
Try dripping burning plastic on the crack and also using a hot knife or soldering iron Remember both serfices have to be melted to adhere.
YakmanDan

fixtrauma - 7-13-2009 at 09:48 PM

I am just curious how you got the hole?

Bob and Susan - 7-14-2009 at 05:22 AM

dragging it along the sand...

norman wear and tear as far as i'm concerned :saint:

vandy - 7-14-2009 at 12:26 PM

Pelican kayaks are made of High-Density Polyethylene (HDPE) which they also call Ram-X. Coleman makes some of their canoes out of the same stuff.

Plastic welding is the way to go, apparently, especially since the hole is where it will be abused again.

Good luck!

motoged - 7-14-2009 at 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by shari
I vote for hot knifing!!!!!! :coolup:

Shari, Shari, Shari....

Your slip is showing again

My experience with hot knifing (years ago, mind you) is that it is very risky. Too hot and the repair just explodes and goes up in a big cloud of smoke....no seemless joining of the two parts... ; too cool a knife and the product doesn't reach the point where it will start to "work" and adhere to or modify anything....

:saint:

Bob and Susan - 7-15-2009 at 06:07 AM

wow

i'll have to document this repair with pictures

i'm waiting for susan to return to start

shari - 7-15-2009 at 07:51 AM

Bob...dont inhale!!!

ElFaro - 7-15-2009 at 08:15 AM

If the kayak is of the roto-molded plastic variety (our Ocean Kayaks) then it will be difficult to repair worn-through spots. We bought a rental kayak years ago that was dragged across the sand during its rental life. The kayak mfr. told us they cannot be patched. Your method of "hot welding" may work as long as another hole or thin spot does not develop. Consider some transport wheels from house to waters edge to avoid dragging through sand.

oladulce - 7-15-2009 at 09:12 AM

I sacrificed a clothes iron to repair our sit-on-top Ocean Kayaks after they flew off the roof of our camper and in to a canyon near Santa Rosalillita. This was the repair method recommended by O.K. 20 yrs ago anyway.

No holes, but it worked well to smooth out the chunks that were removed and got rid of the scratches. Sorry Bob, I can't tell by your picture if this would work for your problem.

We still have those boats and they've taken a lot of abuse.

larryC - 7-16-2009 at 11:03 AM

Not sure if this would work for you but I recently had to repair a plastic boat and the only thig I had was some poly rope. I lit the rope on fire and let the drippings fill the hole. It sealed out water but probably would not work well if the repair was in a high stress area. Good luck with yours.
Larry

boe4fun - 7-16-2009 at 12:41 PM

Hi Bob, Before I retired I used to have a business where I would have to weld different types of plastics. I think that most hulls are thermoformed from a combination of polyethylene and polypropylene, or a copolymer. These plastics are all of the polyolefine family, meaning that they are a wax based plastic using either ethane or propane gas in the manufacturing process (hence polyETHylene or polyPROPylene). The wax base prevents gluing, but you can weld it. If you can place a patch of similar copolymer(most are 3 to 7 percent PE to 93 to 97 percent PP) plastic on the inside and hold it into place while welding if from the outside, it should make a patch that can be drug over the sand and not re-split. A cheap (about $29.00 when on sale) plastic welder can be found at Harbor Freight, and you can cut your own welding rod from stock about 1/8" thickness. You'll need a compressor for the air supply while welding, and let the "torch" cool down before turning off the air (READ THE MANUAL!!!). Any ?'s U2u me. Buena Suerte, Paul

Bwana_John - 7-17-2009 at 02:06 PM

Use a Petex stick intended to fix polyethelene snow ski bases.

A hot flat bladed screwdriver helps to "Weld" it. A petex gun that any ski-shop has makes it a easy fix.

Real bad holes require a hot air welder, also available at better ski repair shops.

Use a piece of another old kayak if you cant find Petex.

Old melted army men and melted styrofoam cups are supposed to work also

Udo - 7-17-2009 at 02:23 PM

I think BJ is on the right track, however, one would have to heat the yak surface with a heat gun first.
The BIG problem is that the yak and the repair product expand and contract at different ratios

than the plastic on the yak. That is why Hobie Cat will just give you a new hull :bounce:

under warranty no matter how long you have owned the yak.

Bob and Susan - 7-17-2009 at 03:02 PM

now i know why you "buy hobie" :light:

not cheap pelican :barf:

Bwana_John - 7-18-2009 at 08:00 AM

Quote:

BJ is on the right track, however, one would have to heat the yak surface with a heat gun first.

No, you dont. You can, but you will blow a hole right thru the kayak with a heat gun if you are not careful.

Use the red hot flat bladed screwdriver to pre-heat the edges of the repair before melting the petex candle on to the kayak.

Use the red hot blade to "weld" the repair together.

I have fixed quite a few kayaks using just a petex stick, backpacking stove, and hot blade, including repairs "on the beach" in Baja. (I used to work in a little kayak shop on the central coast of CA.)

The "Best" fix is by using a hot air plastic welder.