Baja 709-1: DAY 1 and Day 2: Border Crossing, Jardines, El Rosario, Ignacio Springs

Baja 709

Elizabeth and I spent 8 days in Baja on our first anniversary traveling to new and old Baja places from July 18 to July 25, 2009.

The new places included Ignacio Springs Bed & Breakfast, Playa Frambes Lighthouse Resort, and south of Bahia Concepcion which was all new to Elizabeth.

Since we enjoy the historic sites of Baja California, we went to mission-era sites at Londo, Ligui, Loreto, San Javier, Magdalena, San Borja and Santo Tomas.

Being our anniversary and summer vacation we wanted more relaxation time and only camped out one night. The resorts and motels we stayed at were all very nice and some just plain awesome. The furthest south we went was Ensenada Blanca, near Ligui on Highway One.

MAP-1 (Days 1 & 2):



The 8-day trip logged 1,839 miles on my Toyota Tacoma, 102 gallons of gasoline (18 MPG) with zero problems, flats, or issues. Pemex was available everywhere and the only questionable purchase was at Santa Rosalia where the pump ‘seemed’ to be off by 10%. There are now four stations in Santa Rosalia and the ‘bad’ ones (2) are on the right (east side) and the good one is on the left near the harbor. Well, there is a new station on the left, just north of the ‘good one’, and I thought I was at the good one! On the way north, we stopped at the correct station. In Loreto, Phil C gave us directions to the one ‘good’ station in town (north-east part of town).

Highway One was in good condition with only some rough pavement sections, but no potholes. We had dirt detours where the highway is being widened to four lanes just south of Maneadero for 2.5 miles and through the town of Vizcaino.



Maneadero detour photo.

There was a long paved detour along a section of new bridges between Santa Rosalia and Mulege (over Arroyo Boca de Magdalena). The new, wider Highway One sections are 5 miles north of El Rosario and the 2 miles through town… with NO MORE TOPES (speed bumps). New wide road begins again 19 miles later for 12 miles (Km 92 to 112). The next wide section was for a short distance along Bahia Concepcion.

DAY 1 (Saturday, July 18)

We left our home (San Diego County) at 9 am and traveled first to the Costco in Chula Vista (I-5 to Palomar exit, east to Broadway, north to Costco). Inside is a peso exchange with the day’s rate at 13.24 pesos per dollar. We used both pesos and dollars depending on the location and later, when we ran out of pesos.

The border INM office (immigration) was our next stop for Tourist Cards (FM-T visas) and they were US $22 each. We requested and filled in the number of days for the maximum (180) for this and future trips in the next 6 months. The INM office is on the far right and the bank payment window a few offices to the left. It is well signed. The only issue today was leaving the parking area. Instead of driving up to the button to get the red or green light, we had to wait in line with others to get an inspection first and then still had to press the button after. In the past, we only had to state that we were not there to declare anything, unlike the others. We may have been delayed close to an hour for that mess, but once we were done it was clear sailing south! That was 11:30 am when we were on the road again.



This is the far right lane to get into to park in Secondary to pick up Tourist Cards. The closed gate opens automatically as you get close to it.



This is the far right office facing the covered parking area where INM (immigration) is located. Take your passports and pen here first. The officer was friendly and spoke English.



These are the offices to the left of INM where the bank is located to purchase the 180 day FM-T. Signs are on the posts in front.



This is the covered parking area in front of the offices... this Saturday morning was a bit trying to exit as the young officer working alone wanted to inspect everyone getting FM-Ts and still having us push a button for red/ green (we got green). But, we wondered what more would he do if we got red?

The first two tolls were 26 pesos each and the third was 29 pesos. The third toll booth was heavily gaurded for inspections northbound. We took the free road to avoid the major backup here on our trip home.



We stopped in Ensenada for 4 tacos and 2 beers (100 pesos) at the places near the harbor. We got to Maneadero (10 miles from Ensenada) at 1:53 pm and kept on going to the San Quintin area for dinner at JARDINES BAJA, 1.3 miles west of Highway One, near Km. 2. Arrived at 4:30 pm and left at 5:30 www.hotel-jardinesbaja.com.

This was our one-year anniversary date and the Jardines was a fine place for a nice dinner. Elizabeth and I both had the steak and lobster dinner… with 4 beers US $57 (this was our most expensive meal). The Jardines is a beautiful, new restaurant and is the third time we have had dinner there, but this was the first time at the new building.







The El Rosario/ Baja Cactus Pemex was our first fuel stop in Mexico and we took on 50 liters for 370 pesos (13.2 gallons for US $27.95 or US $2.12/gal). That was with the pesos we bought at Costco at 13.24:dollar. A week later we used dollars and the station gave a rate of 12.70:dollar or US $2.21/gal (other stations this week gave only 12.00:dollar).

We had a room reserved at Baja Cactus, but the west side of town was without water because the town’s well pump was busted and we really wanted to have water in our room, naturally. So, we went to the new Turista Motel, 2 miles beyond. We had stayed at the Turista once before when Baja Cactus was full. Once again, we had an excellent night’s sleep and the rate for a king bed was only 300 pesos (US 22.66 with Costco pesos).



Turista Motel mattress label.

Across Highway One from the Turista Motel is Baja’s Best Restaurant (and bar) where Ed Lusk made us an awesome tequila sunrise with fresh squeezed orange juice!

Tomorrow, breakfast at Ed Lusk’s Baja’s Best Restaurant and on to San Ignacio for a night in a ‘yurt’!

Much more to come... to be continued!






[Edited on 8-1-2009 by David K]

Baja 709 (DAY 2)

DAY 2 (Sunday July 19)

We had a nice breakfast at Baja’s Best across the highway from the Turista Motel. Elizabeth had hot cakes and eggs and I had chorizo breakfast burritos with great coffee. Total cost was 200 pesos, incl. Tip (US $15.11).

We were southbound at 10:23 am into boojum country! Some kilometer marker notes: Punta San Carlos & Las Pintas access road between Km. 80-81. New, wide highway runs from Km. 92 to 112. The Agua Dulce historic spring access road is between Km. 160-161. Rock art cave access at Km. 176. Cataviña at Km. 179. and passed through Cataviña at 11:40 am.

Villa Jesus Maria was our gas stop today (200 miles from El Rosario Pemex) at 1:47 pm. 43.8 liters, 325 pesos… With some running around in El Rosario the night before, I had 209 miles on the odometer using 11.6 gallons or 18 MPG (US $2.12/ gal). After gassing up the Tacoma, we stopped for some beer at a local market and got a six-pack of Sol for 67 pesos… and some ice included.

The next stop was at the Eagle Monument (28º Parallel of latitude/ state border) where a kilometer south is check of your FM-T papers a drive-over insect spray of the bottom of your vehicle, for 20 pesos. Northbound, we were waved through with no look at our FM-Ts. The time changes to Mountain Time and we lose an hour. 2 miles south is the entrance road to Guerrero Negro and Highway One curves to the southeast.

We passed a highway patrol cruiser and remembered this is a well-patrolled section and avoid the temptation on this long, straight highway of going much over the posted 80 KPH (50 MPH) speed limit. The Guillermo Prieto/ Mision Santa Gertrudis/ Punta San Francisquito access road is between Km. 153-154 and we pass it at 4:19 Mountain Time.



We stop for beer-break in the Vizcaino Desert (102º).

Vizcaino has a highway-widening project underway so, no pavement for a mile through town.

We arrive at San Ignacio at 5:10 pm (mountain) and head straight for Ignacio Springs Bed & Breakfast where Mongolian style yurts (canvas rooms) along a tropical river in the Baja desert, offer relaxing accommodations.



















Pretty Cool, huh?

We meet Gary and Terry and get settled in before dinner (optional by reservation) is served at 7:30. San Diego area guest Armando and his travel companions had gone fishing earlier on Laguna San Ignacio and that provided a fresh fish fry with veggies and dessert. Before dinner, we take a swim in the San Ignacio river... very romantic and beautiful!





When a guest at dinner found out I was 'David K' on Baja Nomad, he had to show me his vehicle and stickers! Good to meet you Howard! His Toyota has 'BAJA FX' for Baja Fix to tell the world where he goes for fun!



http://www.ignaciosprings.com . Evaporative coolers cool the yurts. They are canvas over a wood frame and in our yurt with the added-on bathroom there are some openings to the outside that provided us with some ‘wildlife experiences’ before we retired for the night. Nothing that a little bug spray couldn’t handle, which we had in our camp box.



Tomorrow, an excellent Canadian-style breakfast and on to the Sea of Cortez!

To be continued…

[Edited on 7-27-2009 by David K]

More Ignacio Springs Yurts

2 of the larger yurts were vacant and we had a look...


















As you can tell, they each have a theme... our's was Africa and the bigger one is the Great Wall of China, etc.

Do check out Terry & Gary's web site and enjoy your stay at Ignacio Springs: http://ignaciosprings.com

[Edited on 7-27-2009 by David K]

They're coming through...loud and clear, David!

Great photos. Keep up the great work!

Thanks Bob...

Primo's (Bocana Beach Restaurant) appeared closed... it was dark at night and didn't have any cars in front during the day.
Primo is a nice guy... the food has been variable. Back in 2005 for the festival, it sure was good for breakfast and dinner. Anyway, Ed's is great and now Mama Espinoza's is, too (wait to you read about and see the changes there when I post Day 8). So, Ed's is at Turista and Mama's is at Baja Cactus... making both motels just a few steps from good food.

Photo of Bob H's dinner at Primo's, July, 2005:

How much did you pay this guy to place your sticker on his new 4x4?

Not a penny, or the same amount I paid you to wear a 'got baja?' hat ... We met there that day for the first time. He picked it up some years earlier at Baja Cactus Motel, where some were left in the lobby.

Quote:

Originally posted by David K Not a penny, or the same amount I paid you to wear a 'got baja?' hat ... We met there that day for the first time. He picked it up some years earlier at Baja Cactus Motel, where some were left in the lobby.