Well, we haven’t even finished posting the trip report from last month’s Baja trip and we’re already planning our next trip down. And again we need
some advice.
We’re thinking whale watching for Spring Break. So we’d be getting out March 30/April 1 and head straight to San Ignacio Lagoon, staying in the San
Ignacio area for three or four days, then over to Mulegé/Bahia Concepcion for a few days, then heading home.
So our main questions is what’s our best bet for seeing the whales that late in the season – out of San Ignacio or Guererro Negro, or does it matter?
What tour operation we should use and how early do we need to book? We’d like to stay in San Ignacio (Casa Lerée was really cool and we’d like to
go back) but we’re open.
Thanks in advance for your expert advice!
Mark y Lisa R.Bajahowodd - 8-15-2009 at 11:11 AM
The good news is that there will be plenty of whales around in either place at that time. If you don't make arrangements with one of the outfitters
at San Ignacio to stay out at the lagoon, you will be faced with a shortage of rooms in town. The tour companies that bus tourists down from San Diego
usually use the Desert Inn hotels. (even when traveling, this is critical to know, as the one in Catavina fills up with bus passengers regularly) The
Desert Inn in Ignacio with 28 rooms is the largest facility in town. If you want to stay at Casa Leree, you need to reserve early. That being said,
there are several companies in town who will take you out to the lagoon, and I imagine the people at Casa Leree can assist you in that. You could also
consider driving out and hooking up with a panga when you get there. You will probably have more choices for rooms in Guerrero Negro. And it is a much
shorter trip to the whales. Several of the hotel operators, including Caracoles, Malarrimo, Cowboy, to name a few, offer whale tours right from your
room. There is also a larger selection of decent dining in Guerreo Negro. My personal fave for the best breakfasts in Baja is the Nautilus which is
adjacent to Caracoles. And for dinner, I frankly can't think of any place in San Ignacio equal to either Los Remedios or Malarrimo in Guerrero Negro.
That being said, our experience over many years is that you will probably find more whales in Ojo de Liebre by Guerrero Negro. But for some
inexplicable reason, the legend of friendly whales at San Ignacio is no myth. You are more likely, although no guaranty, to have an intimate
experience with a whale (no joke intended) at San Ignacio.
Since you are planning a 3-4 day experience at San Ignacio, I would seriously consider going to both Ojo de Liebre and San Ignacio. The towns are not
that far apart. Spend a night in Guerrero Negro, go to the whales, and then drive to San Ignacio. You would then have a true comparison.
And we're all loving the trip report.
[Edited on 8-15-2009 by Bajahowodd]shari - 8-15-2009 at 12:36 PM
by march 30 there are VERY few whales in Ojo de Liebre...ALL the residents are gone and there are only some stragglers near the mouth at that
time...san ignacio is way better that time of year...casa leree is awesome but ya have to book early...hope to see you at least for a couple days!!!Cypress - 8-15-2009 at 12:56 PM
MarkR., Go to San Ignacio, get hooked -up with some whale- watching outfits there. You can catch a ride with them or drive yourself. The road to the
Pacific isn't bad, but it's a little bumpy.Bajahowodd - 8-15-2009 at 01:30 PM
Gee Shari. You're the expert. I do know that we saw a number whales late March in Ojo de Liebre. Maybe we got lucky. And you can't fault me for trying
to drum up some business for Guerrero Negro.Pescador - 8-15-2009 at 08:00 PM
You can stay in San Ignacio or there are huts that you can stay at San Ignacio Lagoon. We did that one year with some friends and it was a real gas,
as we stayed out on the deck chairs all evening and watched the whales from shore. The boat ride was fanatastic and they now have it tightly
controlled in terms of numbers of boats at any given time so you have a much better chance of a good encounter. I think Kuyima does a good job.
check this out: http://www.kuyima.com/whales/adventure.htmlMarkR. - 8-17-2009 at 10:22 AM
Bajahowodd, shari, Cypress, Pescador - Thanks for the input!
Staying out at San Ignacio Lagoon looks really cool - we might go with with that option. But then we loved Casa Lerée, so we'll see... so little
time, so much to do.
Shari - we want to try and make it out to Aasuncion for a few days but again; so little time, so much to do. Hopefully we can work it in.shari - 8-17-2009 at 10:28 AM
thanks Wodd...GN is in my opinion a superior place to see gray whales but after mid march, things go downhill and the "resident" cuties leave...this
lagoon is the first to fill up...so you can see whales there earlier...but it empties out first too. Whale viewing is at it's best with the resident
whales as they are used to the pageros and develop relationships with them...in late march...while you will see whales...it's not the same experience.
To the untrained eye...a whale is a whale is a whale...and if you see 20, that will seem like alot but in february there, there are between 1,500 and
2,000 whales....bajabound2005 - 8-17-2009 at 10:59 AM
We stayed at Kuyima one night this past whale season and would never do it again. The wind roars like crazy all night, no electricity, and God
forbid, NO INTERNET!
The best place to stay in San Ignacio, by far, is Ignacio Springs aka "the yurts". Great accommodations, fabulous food and the guests (and hosts) are
all people you will want to get to know. www.ignaciosprings.com Also requires early booking. It's right on the river. They have kayaks and a row boat for guests to use. A really
relaxing place. And they allow you to bring your dog! Next year we will book a week there and do one or two whale day trips.Bajahowodd - 8-17-2009 at 11:00 AM
Shari. I know there are more whales that go to Ojo de Liebre than San Ignacio. Just wasn't aware of their tight schedule.
Funny thing about our whale watching experience over the years- The most exciting, thrilling experience we ever had, where a mom and her calf spent
the better part of an hour just letting us pet and gush, was a couple of years ago in San Ignacio, where on that day, I don't think we saw more than
about half-dozen whales total. On the other hand, we've been out in both places, surrounded by whales and never had an upclose experience.
As for Bajabound's observation. It all depends what floats your boat. Accomodations are somewhat primitive, and it is cold and windy. There are
several companies that have set ups out there, including at least one that I know that flies in to the airstrip from San Diego. It is more commodious
in town itself. But, a long drive out and back.
[Edited on 8-17-2009 by Bajahowodd]Cypress - 8-17-2009 at 12:28 PM
bajabound2005, Well, what do you expect? Jeez! You're camping at roads end, right down along some fantastic beach front. You must be joking?bajabound2005 - 8-17-2009 at 01:31 PM
Not joking. We were completely unprepared for what was/wasn't there. We had one dinky flashlight (at least we had that). We didn't know what to
expect!mtgoat666 - 8-17-2009 at 01:45 PM
Quote:
Originally posted by bajabound2005
We stayed at Kuyima one night this past whale season and would never do it again. The wind roars like crazy all night, no electricity, and God
forbid, NO INTERNET!
Well, that is the charming thing about Kuyima. It's off the grid. Great place for a vacation, and I think their facilities are pretty first rate for
eco-tourism. I hope they nevver build a "resort" at the lagoon.
Internet! Why do you want to spoil a vacation with internet?LisaR. - 8-17-2009 at 01:47 PM
Thanks, bajabound. That's really good information. It may not keep us from Kuyima, but it is good to know what we would be in for. So, we should
definitely bring a lantern... If we decide on staying there, we will try to remember to u2u you for tips on what else you wish you had brought!
Anyone, if we stay in town (San Ignacio), what is your advice for booking a panga/guide to take us out in the lagoon?
Also, I understand that it is about 45 miles from town to the lagoon. How long of a drive is that, really? 45 miles can be a 45 minute drive, or a 5
hour drive, depending on the road!LisaR. - 8-17-2009 at 01:51 PM
mtgoat, I can see your point about that, but also bajabound's. I think your experience with a place depends alot on your expectations, and also what
you are prepared for. No matter what we end up doing, you can be sure that we will ask for plenty of advice/information here, so that we have a great
trip, no matter what!Bajahowodd - 8-17-2009 at 01:59 PM
There are a number of places in town that can arrange to take you to the lagoon and hook you up with a panga. El Padrino RV Park comes to mind.
However, I'm certain that if you stay in San Ignacio, your host will be able to connect you. The drive to the lagoon will depend much upon the recent
weather. Some of the road is now paved; but not much. My experience, going easy on the suspension is to plan a two hour trip each way. Here's a link
that might interest you and the photos will give you a good idea as to the level of luxury you can expect out at the lagoon.
