BajaNomad - Mexican plumbing

Mexican plumbing

astrobaja - 10-5-2009 at 08:06 PM

Hi all,

Anyone have any horror stories to tell when it came to their house plumbing being done here in Baja?

We are kinda shaking our heads trying to figure out why our house builders did what they did. Right now we are having a problem in our house with sewer odors coming up through the shower drains. Number one reason they did'nt use p-traps for the drains! Also they put in each bath a second drain besides the shower just in case of a line rupture, trouble is now twice as much foul air comes back in!
Also when they built the septic tank they ran a vent line to the outside just above the tank, we feel this might be pushing air back through the pipes.... kinda odd the vent pipe never heard of that one before!
So I've been reading about solutions (besides jackhammering the concrete away and installing shower p-traps) and saw a reference to a large outside 4" p-trap designed to go in the line just before the septic tank, anyone see this before? Also is there a GOOD knowlegable plumber in Ensenada? I'm sure we could install the trap ourselves, but it goes to show you that you should insist on a properly trained tradesmen to do the subcontracts in your house. Our guys were great at building adobe structures but when it came to electrical and plumbing forget it!

BajaWarrior - 10-5-2009 at 08:16 PM

I would install that P trap as close to the shower as possible, that may work. Close the second drain up with a plug of some type if possible.

I had the same problem in a shower at my former Baja home in La Bocana de Santo Tomas, we jackhammered the floor, problem fixed!

Diver - 10-5-2009 at 08:33 PM

Make sure the P-trap is actually missing before you try a fix.
Another source of sewer gas is from unvented or improperly vented traps.
Without a vent line, the flow will often drain below the trap level, allowing sewer gases to pass.

If you decide to add a trap outside the house, make sure it is vented soon after the trap.
This outside trap will stop sewer gases from the septic from reaching into the house. You may still get some odor from the dirty piping up to the trap.

Best way to fix it ?
Open the floor and put a trap in the shower(s).

Also, the vent pipe at the septic tank may push gases (wind) through the untrapped house drains in some cases. Adding a downwind cap or elbow to the end of the pipe will cause the wind to create suction rather than blow "in". This should solve that problem.

However, it is more common that the gases that escape upward from the septic vent pipe are blown back towards the house (not through the pipe) so make sure this is not your problem. If it is; you built the septic tank/vent in the wrong place.
.

k-rico - 10-5-2009 at 08:36 PM

I once stayed in a friend's house in Cantamar and the place stunk. No kitchen sink trap.

I've replaced all the angle stops and feed tubes in my three year old house with parts bought in San Diego. They used cheap stuff, not good on the pressure side, especially on the second floor. The originals were marked up like they were tightened with a pliers. Shlocky parts and work.

Replacing faucets is next, more junk.

DENNIS - 10-5-2009 at 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by astrobaja
Also when they built the septic tank they ran a vent line to the outside just above the tank, we feel this might be pushing air back through the pipes.... kinda odd the vent pipe never heard of that one before!

Septic tanks are supposed to vent through the vent pipes in the house, assuming they put those in.
:lol:

Mexico. The land of baseless assumptions.
If you have vents in the house plumbing, you can cap that outside vent.

fishbuck - 10-5-2009 at 09:14 PM

Stayed at Hotel Convento in La Paz once. Nice little budget hostel.
My room was freshly remodeled. Problem was only cold water came out of the shower. They only have hot water at certain times of day anyway. But it was still cold.
Not much of a problem in La Paz where it is typically 90 degrees plus. Just turn the water on and get a little running start and you in. With in a few seconds you are numb so it feels good then.
One day I noticed that the water tank on the toilet was very hot. Strange.
Sure enough they had hooked the hot water supply to the toilet. Only two or three more days of cold showers and they had it fixed.
A nice warm shower is really a luxury I tell ya! :yes:

BigWooo - 10-6-2009 at 01:27 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by morgaine7

Cheap fix: There are drain sets ... the ones that go in the floor of the shower under the grate ... with a small cup that collects and holds water, thus sealing off the odor. That is, until the water evaporates, which doesn't take long in BCS summer. Solution is to run a bit of water to refill it.
Kate

We had these in a prior home and they worked good. Our builder didn't put in traps and these prevented any smell from entering the bathroom. Like Kate said, you do have to use them or they'll dry out.

On our current home we also have vents on the septic tanks, but capped them. So far it appears it's venting just fine up the main septic line and out through the roof vents.

Another thing you might want to try is putting a "T" on the vent pipe that comes out the roof. Situate the "T" so the solid side faces the normal afternoon breeze. That should keep the wind from blowing the gasses back down the pipe, while still allowing it to vent properly.

Bob and Susan - 10-6-2009 at 05:50 AM

if the builder used a "j trap" instead of a "p trap"
then a sink in the link will gurrgle when another is draining...

stinky vent pipes are very common with septic tanks
if they stink they are working as designed

we capped the vent like dennis said with small holes in the cap
ot worked but there was still an odor

we finally used this to control the odor
they REALLY work!!!

edit" i forgot the link
http://www.stopsepticodor.com/

now there are several homes here that use them too

[Edited on 10-6-2009 by Bob and Susan]

new_wolverine_with_upc.jpg - 20kB

DENNIS - 10-6-2009 at 05:57 AM

Great website, Bob. Thanks.

BigWooo - 10-6-2009 at 05:59 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by astrobaja
saw a reference to a large outside 4" p-trap designed to go in the line just before the septic tank, anyone see this before?

If the slope in your main septic drain line is marginal, I wonder if a P-Trap at the septic tank might become a source of clogging?

BigWooo - 10-6-2009 at 06:02 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bob and Susan

http://www.stopsepticodor.com/

[Edited on 10-6-2009 by Bob and Susan]

Wow, someone actually makes a commercial one. Great website!

DENNIS - 10-6-2009 at 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by BigWooo

If the slope in your main septic drain line is marginal, I wonder if a P-Trap at the septic tank might become a source of clogging?

Marginal? It's supposed to be one quarter inch to the foot. Anything much more or less and you have serious problems. Less and it wont drain. More and it drains fluids too quickly leaving solids in the line.
This is one job that won't tolerate liberal interpretation in construction methods, not even in Mexico.

astrobaja - 10-6-2009 at 10:31 AM

Wow thanks for all the great ideas and input! We were present during construction and for sure there are no p-traps for the showers. Its going to be a bit tricky to install new ones since we have 1/2" PEX tubing running all throughout our house for the hydronic heating system, just have to be very careful.
Today we are going to properly block off the superfluous drains and block off the outside vent near the septic.
Bob: looks like a great idea for the T-vent/filter, might order a couple for our roof vents! Thanks!!!
The slope for the drain appears to be good, Dennis its in the range you describe.

DENNIS - 10-6-2009 at 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by astrobaja
The slope for the drain appears to be good, Dennis its in the range you describe.

Glad to hear that, Mike. Since it presents no future problem, you can abandon that diet now and eat to your hearts content. :lol:

Bob and Susan - 10-6-2009 at 02:15 PM

this was yesterdays picture of the day...

we have 6 filters installed

smells GOOD!!!

today9-5.jpg - 38kB

DanO - 10-6-2009 at 02:51 PM

We had an odor issue because the roof vent just outside the bathroom window terminated under the eave instead of going up through the roof. As a result, the smell came in through the window.

One other problem I've had to fix is where PVC sink drain fittings were improperly connected to ABS drain pipe using PVC glue and silicone caulk. Not surprisingly, they leaked.

BajaWarrior - 10-6-2009 at 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by DanO
We had an odor issue because the roof vent just outside the bathroom window terminated under the eave instead of going up through the roof. As a result, the smell came in through the window.

One other problem I've had to fix is where PVC sink drain fittings were improperly connected to ABS drain pipe using PVC glue and silicone caulk. Not surprisingly, they leaked.

LOL! DanO, we had the same plumber... I had to cut out the shower floor, fortunatley discovered the error before laying the tile...

I did however punch the vents through the roof, no odor.

BW

[Edited on 10-6-2009 by BajaWarrior]

SDRonni - 10-6-2009 at 04:32 PM

What does it mean when you have these smells in a new condo building??? Any way to fix it?

DanO - 10-6-2009 at 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by BajaWarrior

Quote:

Yes indeed, our old friend Abel. My roof vents are now above the roof as well. And don't even get me started about the electrical wiring.

BajaNuts - 10-6-2009 at 08:16 PM

Quote:

And don't even get me started about the electrical wiring.

aw, come on now,
spill the beans.... what's wrong with your wire hoses?

DanO - 10-7-2009 at 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by BajaNuts
And don't even get me started about the electrical wiring.

aw, come on now,
spill the beans.... what's wrong with your wire hoses?

Well, you asked. Instead of being wired in a proper circuit, the electrical outlets were wired in a sort of "octopus" fashion, with the wiring (not romex, of course, just stranded wire with taped connections that were not properly sealed), buried in the grout between floor tiles and wall bricks (floor tiles and grout, by the way, are not waterproof). This was mainly in the kitchen, with runs going off to several other rooms -- all on a single circuit. A series of shorts, the last of which was untraceable (one of my neighbors is a contractor and spent hours trying to run it down before pronouncing the situation FUBAR) required us to bypass this whole POS and rewire the outlets and floor runs with properly connected and heat-shrink sealed wiring. That in turn required us to cut holes in the backs of under-counter kitchen cabinets to reach the walls under the kitchen outlets (the alternative would have been to remove all the kitchen cabinets and tile countertops), jack hammer through those holes to reach the old junctions inside the brick walls so we could rewire them without digging into the walls above the countertops, and cut new grooves in the floor grout and underlying concrete to deal with the runs to other rooms and the circuit breaker. We didn't bother trying to repair the damage to the walls and cabinet backs, as that was all hidden under the countertops and behind all the stuff in the cabinets, and I still haven't gotten around to re-grouting the grooves we dug in the floor. What a #$%^ing mess.

DENNIS - 10-7-2009 at 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by DanO
What a #$%^ing mess.

Aw C'mon, DanO. Look at the brite side of it. :cool:

DanO - 10-7-2009 at 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by DENNIS

Quote:

Originally posted by DanO
What a #$%^ing mess.

Aw C'mon, DanO. Look at the brite side of it. :cool:

Good point. The blender is now functional, and I own a hammer drill and a couple of concrete saw blades.

DENNIS - 10-7-2009 at 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by DanO
Good point. The blender is now functional, and I own a hammer drill and a couple of concrete saw blades.

I know how complete that makes you feel. I had to buy a Makita jack hammer to build my house and if I don't give it away, I'll get to take it to my grave.
Life is good. :lol:

wsdunc - 10-7-2009 at 12:25 PM

I have lived on a septic system in So Cal for a few years now, we put somehting similar on our vents (sweetair?) anyhow an activated charcoal vent filter. Seems to work well, we are normally OK unless there are very specific airflow conditions, when we occasionally get some septic tank odor. Even then its hard to tell if its ours or a neighbors.

gnukid - 10-7-2009 at 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by DENNIS

Quote:

Originally posted by DanO
Good point. The blender is now functional, and I own a hammer drill and a couple of concrete saw blades.

I know how complete that makes you feel. I had to buy a Makita jack hammer to build my house and if I don't give it away, I'll get to take it to my grave.
Life is good. :lol:

When your plumber says "no te preocupes" that means "I have no idea what I am doing."

vandenberg - 10-7-2009 at 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by gnukid

When your plumber says "no te preocupes" that means "I have no idea what I am doing."

Most of them should put that to music. :biggrin:

DENNIS - 10-7-2009 at 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by gnukid

When your plumber says "no te preocupes" that means "I have no idea what I am doing."

You mean they actually have words for that? I always went by the "Thousand Yard Stare."

snowcat5 - 10-7-2009 at 05:12 PM

Hi, You could try making your own p-trap out of elbows, installing a vent pipe, up the wall and 8-10 feet or so above the roof, nearby, outside of your house, where the pipe exits the foundation on it's way to the tank. I don't know if this will work for a large house but I have seen it work on several smaller, 2-bathroom casitas Cap -off the vent pipe at the tank- a real septic tank should not be vented- this extra air can keep the tank from working properly and require more pump-outs. This worked on my place in Southern Baja- my contractor built without p-traps because he "Couldn't justify the extra money for p-traps and vents" he claimed. My fix worked for my place.

DENNIS - 10-7-2009 at 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by snowcat5
a real septic tank should not be vented- this extra air can keep the tank from working properly and require more pump-outs.

Somebody gave you some bad info, snowcat.

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Septic_tank_vent

http://home.howstuffworks.com/home-improvement/plumbing/sewe...

[Edited on 10-8-2009 by DENNIS]

Plumbing

tehag - 10-7-2009 at 07:55 PM

Hey, the plumbing down here was all outside not too long ago. I think they're learning pretty fast. For the stinky shower a small plastic grocery bag filled with water, tied off, and placed over the drain works when you're not showering, when you are, the water flow cuts the smell down. We finally had the shower floor cut and a p-trap installed, now the drain has gone from slow to slooowwwwer and must be cleared with bleach or caustic soda and water pressure much more often. Seems like I have lived in plumbing hell forever, it's kinda like taxes, messy and stinky but whatcha gonna do?

DENNIS - 10-7-2009 at 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by tehag
whatcha gonna do?

I guess you could put it back outside. :lol:

If you're on a septic system, all that bleach and caustic soda will be a lethal additive to the live little critters in the tank.

BajaNuts - 10-7-2009 at 09:31 PM

Quote:

DanO-

"Well, you asked...... What a #$%^ing mess.

DanO, I did ask, and I think you have one of the top stories I've heard. Not even gonna try to comment on that one.............

My sympathies are with you, my friend......

I have mixed feelings about storied like these.

One is that situations like these would usually not happen NOB (USA/Canada) due to building/plumbing/electrical inspections that are mandatory during construction.

Is the work standard so low in Baja that stories like these are common? and are there no electrical/plumbing/building inspections?

And where's the pride? well, I guess I can answer that one myself. If you pay peanuts, you get monkeys. When people are being paid a descent wage for the skilled work they do, the work will reflect their talent and the pride of the workman.

Why would someone pay top dollar for a craftsman tile installer to create a beautiful shower enclosure with a surround underwater scene.....and then pass off the electrical or plumbing work to ....any joe-blow?

And before "you" reply, ....you're right! It that nasty gringo attitude of "doing a job right" that's rearing it's ugly head right now. We bust our butts to make sure all the circuits work (DUH!), the boxes are level and we even align the trim plate screws when the devices are trimmed out....

it's just hard to understand why others would do things that way.........just hate to hear of the unfortunate times of others....

edit to include- and it ticks me off that we are prohibited from coming to Mexico to work and do a better/faster/maybenotlessmoney/but definitelylessheadaches....job when I know there are homeowners out there who would rather pay a little more and have the job done right.

(Okay- lay it on me....)

[Edited on 10-8-2009 by BajaNuts]

gnukid - 10-8-2009 at 12:00 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by BajaNuts
DanO-

"Well, you asked...... What a #$%^ing mess.

Quote:

it's just hard to understand why others would do things that way.........just hate to hear of the unfortunate times of others....

I know you didn't ask me, but[t], isn't it the age-old cultural contrast of sensibilities. The American client assumes that the only way to do it is to standard US building code while the plumber has no such desire, the right parts are hard to come by, more expensive and often they are factory seconds so when the plumber says, "don't you worry about it" the customer thinks that means it will be fine, while they both gloss over this huge chasm of understanding/agreement the result is a big misunderstanding naturally.

Even a good plumber north or south won't or can't always do a good job without the right parts-right now, so, they make do. Besides, the feeling is, this is better than most.

In the US, lots of water is used and wasted to carry sewage and create proper functioning p traps, that is less often the norm to the south due to less water, less pipes etc...

There is never a better time to check all work than in advance, then check progress, and immediately putting a stop to drains that aren't lining up to be in the right spot, that don't have a proper trap, a proper fall and always use pipes that meet or beat code. And check it again, if it doesn't work right away, you pull it out and do it again. If you don't fix it right away in progress you will do it later again and have to damage the pipes, tile and cement and redo all that, what a waste-you pay twice or more.

Of course you could end up with 50lbs plus water pressure that will blow out pipes and faucets that are not well glued, clamped down and installed and a whole new slew of problems that occur when only when you turn on the water pressure, you up the standard on one end but not the other.

Some people project their expectations upon others without being specific about what that entails, and how to achieve it, the only possible result is disappointment.

If x and y are not done to a defined standard, just don't expect anyone but you to care.

k-rico - 10-8-2009 at 05:42 AM

Reading all this makes me wonder if the inferior workmanship could make a case for trade unions. In the US and elsewhere, for what? 300 years?, trade unions and guilds have apprenticeship programs where the young workers learn the trade and eventually become journeymen, who pass along the skillset to new appentices. It seems that in Mexico, you become a tradesman by saying you are one. No training nor licensing required. Proper tools (half the trade) optional. Finding a good tradesman is purely a word of mouth task.

I see this with the maintenance guys where I live. I had to explain to a gardener yesterday that perhaps he didn't need to water the grass (soaking it) everyday. He was actually killing the grass with too much water because the low spots were flooded everyday. I chalked it up to the probable fact that the guy is completely unfamilar with grass. Then you wonder, why are there low spots in an area that was greated with fill?

Osprey - 10-8-2009 at 06:00 AM

I don't worry about my plumbing in the bathroom so much but I do like it to be neat and clean. So I bought some real nice carpet, installed it and I tell ya, it looks so nice I'm thinking about running it all the way up to the house.

[Edited on 10-8-2009 by Osprey]

DENNIS - 10-8-2009 at 06:03 AM

Thanks, Jorge. :lol:

gnukid - 10-8-2009 at 07:35 AM

Not sure this helps for everyone, I found that a typical Mexico shower trap is about 6 inches of PVC drain pipe which has a side outlet, like a T on its side, there is a cone placed in the drain (cone often comes attached to the drain cover) to make the water pass down into the bottom pool and then come up to the outlet to make a water seal.

Well, they sell many different size cones to place inside the drain to make a proper water seal into the standing water to reduce back flow of odor. All you do is go a buy a variety of these plastic cones, pull out the drain and build up the outer wall space with cement a bit as needed, place the cone to be sure it is deep enough to touch the water, but not too deep and voila-water seal-no more odor.

Place the drain cover over the space and regrout it in place or place it temporarily (to remove occasionally) and live happily ever-after, no odor or bugs can pass.

DanO - 10-8-2009 at 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by DENNIS
Thanks, Jorge. :lol:

Ditto that.

As for my place, I never expected it to be built to U.S. code. What I wanted was something that was built to work, but, unfortunately, it didn't, because, as G-kid notes, I wasn't there every day to supervise (and who knows whether I'd have noticed anyway). As a consequence, I had to spend a few days doing some ugly repair work. However, notwithstanding my screed above, I didn't mind doing it -- what little boy doesn't like playing with jackhammers, concrete saws and blowtorches? It was cleaning up the resulting mess, mainly the concrete dust from the sawing, that truly sucked. Still, I'm not complaining, because I'd still rather be in Baja doing an ugly job than doing that same job anywhere else.

snowcat5 - 10-8-2009 at 11:18 AM

Hi Dennis, I've been installing septic tanks and leach fields in California for years, as a licensed contractor. In California, septic tanks with leach fields are not installed with a breather pipe at the tank ( a venting system for the house-side of the system is a must) because the decomposition process does not need air. If there is a vent pipe at the tank, their system was probably installed without a leach field and the tank is just saturating the untreated waste into the ground- which has lead to many system failures both North and South of the boarder. I have found that the Infiltrator System ( for leach field construction), connected to a two compartment tank, is superior than the traditional 3" or 4" perf.ed pipe and is easier to install because it does not need to be back-filled with gravel, just native soil. Home Depot in Ensenada has carried the Infiltrator plastic kits in the past. With plastic leach pipe the rule of thumb is 80' of leach line per toilet- the Infiltrator needs only 32' of leach line for the same application. OK, that's enough of chit talking!

Bob and Susan - 10-8-2009 at 12:11 PM

poop talk...

"80' of leach line per toilet"

its not about number of toilets
poop doesnt go into the leech lines at all

its about how much water you use
AND
the kind of soil you have

remember the tanks are full all the time

80 feet of leech for one area may be ok
but 120 feet for another is correct

most correct estimates are done with water usage and type of soil

all leech systems need gravel

DENNIS - 10-8-2009 at 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by snowcat5
- a real septic tank should not be vented-

OK snowcat. I was just commenting on your statement above and I see what you mean. Not vented at the tank but, vented through the house.

Quote:

I have found that the Infiltrator System ( for leach field construction), connected to a two compartment tank, is superior than the traditional 3" or 4" perf.ed pipe and is easier to install because it does not need to be back-filled with gravel, just native soil. Home Depot in Ensenada has carried the Infiltrator plastic kits in the past.

I've never seen anything like Infiltrator down here. I just built and had I seen it here, I'd have used it. I have real problem soil.
Another thing I did was mound over my two leech lines, maybe two feet high which, in effect makes the lines two feet deeper in the ground.

Infiltrator:

http://loomistank.com/infiltrator-leach-field-system.shtml

DENNIS - 10-8-2009 at 01:41 PM

Allow me to add a thought about sophisticated septic systems below the border.
The concept is largely foreign to most people here as they have never used them.
What they do use is the cesspool. They work when the soil will support them. Otherwise, they're just a pt full of cess that won't disipate.
I would rather have a composting toilet than a cesspool.

OK....Beer time.

[Edited on 10-8-2009 by DENNIS]

Diver - 10-8-2009 at 01:52 PM

1. The septic sizing has nothing to do with the number of toilets.
Typically a house system is sized based on the number of bedrroms or occupants = design flow.
If you put 10 toilets in a 2 bedroom house with only 2-4 people living there, the extra toilets do not signify additional waste.
Drainfiled sizing depends on anticipated design flow, percolation rate of the soil and type of leachfield that is used.

2. Drainfields CAN be built without gravel. Infiltrators or EZ Drain are graveless alternatives.

3. It is NOT incorrect to built a septic tank with a vent. There are many of them around with vents although many municipalities no longer require them.
In practice, neither the drain pipe or tank are typically filled to the top (they still have air space). This allows the system to vent back to the house plumbing vents so no septic vent is needed in most applications. However, if a portion of the piping will remain full (as when you add an outside trap) you will need to vent the septic tank side of the pipe to avoid a syphon draining the trap.

BTW, I am a Civil PE and design 20-40 standard and alternative septic systems each year.

What's a friggin P-Trap for?

Sharksbaja - 10-8-2009 at 02:11 PM

With the seawater so close to the surface there at Bobs' seaside retreat the proper setup would probably be a cribbed sand filter. Who designed that system? Probably a Mexican. So if you installed the leech field up on that area you raised up 5 ft you would have a good system for a location that is adjacent to a lake, arroyo or stream or high water table. Conversely if your field is in the high seawater table area than you are potentially contributing bad things into the bay.
Many people do not understand the dynamics of subsurface water. I am not an expert but know a little.
Imho the best solution for most apps in Mexico would certainly be an "infiltrater" system. Right on Snowcat! Easy simple inexpensive installation. We were about to install a new one in Mulege.

It's apparent now though that ANY leech system along the flood zone presents a problem(as it always has) but recently flood after flood washing thru so many septic systems CANNOT be a good thang.
I doubt that will change however. Maybe the city should consider a new sewer system :lol:

You know like "real cities" have. The real only saving grace with the current town system is that the town never grew similarly and exponentially as many towns in BCS did.
The fact that Mulege dumps half(?) treated effluent into the waters nearby adds to the leech field problem.
Nobody drinks the rio water so the importance of clean water there is nil. The city water itself draws from wells and fed to the reservoir and'or city mains and is questionable. I never drank it but I know people who did/do.
The absence of vacuum breakers and checkvalves is really scary to me. Especially when the city is in the habit of shutting off the water for hours at a time. That is really stupid I think. Every time they shut the water off it creates a big suction anywhere upsteam of the water column.

That means if someone had a hose running inside a septic tank or animal trough and the water was turned off the hose would syphon water back from where it's placed, that is unless you had backflow prevention.

I can't even imagine how many homes, hookups etc. do not have that valuable and necessary part in a communal system. Actually it's a good idea to have them at any service entrance.

Venting septic tanks is rediculous unless there is no other venting. Even then, it will vent through the drains. You will hear them glurble or burp. :lol:

Toilets luckily have built-in Mexican plumber proof trap.

For the life of me I really think some builders/plumbers don't understand wtf a trap does. I doubt they are "real" plumbers.

They most likely think a p-trap is for catching rings dropped in the sink. :wow:

Bob and Susan - 10-8-2009 at 03:18 PM

our leach field is in the "island" above ground

we used several plastic tanks before the 150 feet of leech field
the "pop" is eaten in these plastic tanks

by the time the waste water gets to the water table
it should be "drinkable"
(but i'm not drinking it)

the plants above the leach field "eat" the bad stuff
that's why they are so green

the trick with leech fields is to make them too BIG
and have plants above that consume chemicals

septic tanks in the orchard just drained in the river
you can see ALOT that are exposed today

mulege pumps the city sewer up stream and
dumps it in a purculating resovoir
then it goes into the river and to sea

if you hear gurgulling in your sink it's not made corectly
the plumer used a "j trap" instead of a "p trap"
a p trap is vented
a j trap isn't

DENNIS - 10-15-2009 at 07:42 AM

Didn't want to start a new thread for this little beauty but, you and your better half will wonder how life will be without the closeness this item will provide:

http://www.wiserep.com/productDetails.php?id=5769

BajaNuts - 10-15-2009 at 08:13 AM

with all this talk about venting septic tanks, I thought I'd share some info about mosquitoes that live in septic tanks and the necessity of screening all septic vent pipes.
http://www.bajawesternonion.com/baja-insect-info.asp

scroll down a little to get to the mosquito info.

Googling "mosquitoes in septic tanks" will get you lots of information about it, lots of counties require screened vent pipes.

[Edited on 10-15-2009 by BajaNuts]