GRAND CANYON and THE ONE-ARMED MAJOR

On the Trail with John Wesley Powell.

Some Colorado River history:

On May 24th, 1869, John Wesley Powell, the "one-armed major", and a crew of 10 men, launched their four boats on the unexplored Colorado river. And thus began their epic journey of the Grand Canyon of the Colorado.
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Tragically, thirteen weeks later, only 2 boats and 6 survivors emerged from the canyon.

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- A great book about Powell's exploration of the river -
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On their historic exploration of the Grand Canyon of the Colorado, Powell and his men traveled through tumultuous river rapids and tranquil calms, mountainous canyons and majestic plains in their journey, where no man had journeyed before.
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- This photo shows Powell's boat, "Emma Dean" with his armchair and life preserver -


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Powell was a relentless explorer, as well as a keen observer of the wonders of nature. His diary contains profound descriptions of what he saw and felt. One excerpt states:

“Each wall of the canyon is a composite structure, a wall composed of many walls, but never a repetition. Every one of these almost innumerable gorges is a world of beauty in itself. In the Grand Canyon, there are thousands of gorges like that below Niagara Falls, and there are a thousand Yosemites.” .
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(I hope the following photos describe the Canyon for you, too.)


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This chapter of our THE ROAD TO BAJA trip ..... takes us to

THE GRAND CANYON - SOUTH RIM
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We left Four Corners Monument and taking AZ Hwy 64 west from AZ Hwy 160 led us to the entrance of Grand Canyon Natl Park, South Rim. The roadside sign said $25 per vehicle entrance fee, which was good to go with us..and we rolled on up to the park entrance.

A very nice park official looked at me as I was getting the twenty-five bucks ready...and said "That won't be necessary for you, sir. I just need to see your Golden Age Passport."

I said, "Well, I don't have one..and besides, I'm not NEARLY old enough to qualify for one."

He kept a straight face and said, "Driver's license, please, sir."

I handed him my ND driver's license. He looked it over, turned around, took something out of a drawer, slid it through a card encoder..handed it and my driver's license back...and said, "Now...instead of $25 per vehicle, this card is only $10. It's your Golden Pass to all National Parks in the USA. You're all set after you sign that..and.. you COULD have got this a little earlier, you know.".
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I drove on in...trying to ignore the churlish chuckling from my co-pilot by saying..."A-hem!...Did you know that these handsome trees we are driving by are Ponderosa Pines? And just look at those beautiful stands of pinyon/juniper over there.".
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I am truly amazed at what some people find funny.....aren't you?

I turn to tell her that, but she is suddenly pointing and screaming, "Look OUT!" Startled, I jump with both feet on the airbrakes, squealing locked-up tires, spread-eagling & splat-flattening the Maltese Bros. onto the windshield...and scared the living hell out a beautiful desert muley buck who had just managed to spurt past the grillwork and escape into the scrub.

I calmly pry the pooches off the windshield and got my camera out, saying, "I just knew we'd see some game on this section. Nice buck, eh?"
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After taking a half-dozen shots of the buck, I drive on....as she makes a comment.
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I graciously listen and then think that her sputtering, ..."Want me..to.hee-hee..ta..haa!.to...to d-d-drive so you can be ready for the next photo-op there, Golden Boy?" was just a little toooo sarcastic, so I pulled over close to the first canyon viewpoint edge and opened the RV door.

"Sweetheart, step out the door and take a look at those beautiful flowers over by that bush. No, you won't need your glasses, dear...it's about 10 feet straight ahead."
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Well okay..not really. After a smile and a hug, we move on...reveling in the wonder of it all.
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Beautiful imagery surrounds this exquiste place, and the sentiments it creates when viewing it are wonderful too. The breathtaking view along the south rim presents the awesome ambiance of the Canyon, and shows that nature needs none of mans inventions.

Splendid! Bravo! Encore!..if that is possible?! .
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Ah..almost a perfect photo spot, baby....backwards a few steps..okay, almost ..just ONE little more step...START FLAPPING!

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The view over the egde at the Indian Watchtower is unbelievable and undescribable. Over one and-a-half miles straight down. It takes your breath away.. and turns the knees to jelly.
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Looking over that sheer precipice I could feel myself being drawn down-down-down.. into the hypnotic chasm like a moth to the flame. So I carefully walk away..hoping that going off my diet will not collapse the cliff edge.
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..later in the motorhome, far from the edge & and fortifying myself with a martini, I recall this great poem by cowboy poet S. Omar Barker.

He wrote this after his first view of the Canyon:

Grand Canyon Cowboy

I'd heard of the Canyon (the old cowboy said)
And I figured I'd like to go see it.
So I rode till I sighted a rim out ahead,
And reckoned that this place might be it.

I anchored my horse to a juniper limb
And crawled to the edge for a peek.
One look was a plenty to make my head swim.
And all of my innards feel weak.

If I'd known how durned deep it was going to be,
I'd have managed, by some hook or crook,
To tie my ownself to the doggoned tree
And let my horse go take the look!
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Thank Odin I've had the good fortune to have been here many times, and the grand vista always comes ALIVE when one sees it again.
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No need to say, "We'll be back"...that adventure is certain.

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We were amazed, as well... Not just a big hole in the ground... The Grand Canyon in 3-D is really worth any effort to see... We are going back.

Thank you Roger for the look back!

Paulina...here's some info on the Watchtower

You can try magnifying this photo a bit to better read it. If you have a problem post it here and I can do a better job of posting the info on this photo.


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Located at the eastern end of the Grand Canyon South Rim, the building's form and construction were modeled after ancient Anasazi watchtowers. It was built in 1932.

The architect was Mary Jane Colter who spent months locating ruins and traveling overland to sketch and study the forms, construction and stonework. This seventy-foot tower was designed to take advantage of the sweeping views of the canyons. Based on two concentric circles connected with arching forms, the building's exterior features coursed sandstone alternating with bands of colored stone above a rubble base.



[Edited on 10-25-2009 by Pompano]

This is Mary Jane Colter, designer of the tower. Probably not a well behaved woman, Paulina She selected each stone that went into it, and was on site working through the construction, ahead of her time as a woman architect. The tower is beautiful, and the art and colors inside are incredible!

Pompano, thank you for this thread! Your photos of the canyon are great, and they take me back to fall of 2008, when we FINALLY got there. It had always been very grand in my mind, but I had no idea!

Quote:

Originally posted by Paula This is Mary Jane Colter, designer of the tower. Probably not a well behaved woman, Paulina She selected each stone that went into it, and was on site working through the construction, ahead of her time as a woman architect. The tower is beautiful, and the art and colors inside are incredible! Pompano, thank you for this thread! Your photos of the canyon are great, and they take me back to fall of 2008, when we FINALLY got there. It had always been very grand in my mind, but I had no idea!

Hola Paula, I agree with your idea of the architect, Mary Jane Colter, being a 'non-conformist' type of gal. Indeed, she most likely shocked some of the stiffer types of her day. From what I have read of her, it seems highly likely her and Calamity Jane would have hit it off...maybe even Ma Barker.

Thinking of women who succeeded in a man's world, she also reminds me of a great old gal I met in Coyote Bay back in the early 70's. Her name was Magee (Ma-gee) and she was an early and rare female graduate of the Colorado School of Mines. A very outspoken lady, who brooked no nonsense, and one who captured your heart quickly with her individualism. Being a young engineer and an explorer at heart, while employed by a large mining company, she discovered quite a few jade mines in North America..a couple in Alaska, BC in Canada, and in California, plus a gold mine in Mexico. She educated me on jade...and a few other fun things. She told me of finding nephrite jade Up North and jadeite in Guatemala and California. Stupid me, I figured jade was just..jade..and only found in China.


Those were some times. She smoked long cheroots. She loved to have me bring her hassenpheffer (rabbit) from my hunts Up North and would put on a feast for us with her husband, Jack. She also loved absolutley anything to do with extraterrestrials...ETs...spaceships..visitations..sightings.
She had a standing offer out to the shrimp boats that used to anchor in front of our Coyote Bay houses: "If you have seen any UFO's on the Sea of Cortez, bring that story to me for some dinero and comida."

Well, I had been out on the Cortez quite a few times already by that time..and I had never seen a single UFO...BUT..the number of shrimp boat captains who HAD seen them grew alarmingly over the course of a couple years. Magee's veranda was never quite empty..always a shrimper here...a panga guy there..telling her about the huge glowing things that inhabit the Cortez nights.

I know she didn't believe all of the stories..but I also knew she revelled in thier telling, and her imagination would take over from there. Good enough and great entertainment..back then we had little communication with the outside world. I used to 'grade' the believability of the stories and would tell Magee over coffee the next morning that the story last night was a 4..or maybe that rare 10.

Magee had a great, but slightly 'raw' sense of humor. One Christmas Up North I received a bulky card from her. Opening it I pulled out some folded toilet paper..on which she had written in red lipstick - followed with a smooch:

"Money's scarce, Times are Hard, Here's Your F___ing Xmas Card."
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Jack, Magee, and me. 1973
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In retrospec, I think Magee and Mary Jane Colter would have become fast friends...and filled up some pages of history.
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Great Pic's...

...BTW, don't waste your time going out to the Grand Canyon Skywalk that's on Tribal land...some friends went out there and they wanted about $75 per head (BIG rip off) - there's two fees involved - one to get on the land and then an additional fee to get out on the glass Skywalk that juts out over the edge...Also, they don't let you bring your camera onto the Skywalk!!! They won't let you bring anything that you may drop and scratch the glass...They do, of course, offer to take your photo by their camera man - another rip off!

You can take many better pic's at the National Park outlooks, as Roger has shown above...skip the Skywalk, IMHO...

Neal - a little explaining might help!

First Through The Canyon!

Vertigo

Stay away from the edge, Roger.

There are forces beyond your control.

Roger where are you

We're waiting.

Hi Sam, nice to hear from you again.

Many years ago, when limbs were limber, I hiked down and camped barebones at the same place with my brothers. We experienced those unreal changes of climate, the sense of nature's grandeur, and a great time in our lives. Another trip, we rode mules down and ascended via helicopter. I'll take walking anytime.

I've also camped on the north rim, and am pleased to hear of my old friend's connection to the Grand Canyon. What can I say about Jake? One-of-a-kind and a Baja character from Way Back would be just a poor start. We had some times. A prized possession is the conch shell trumpet he made for me back in the day. Before I get kicked by a horse or dragged down by a giant Humboldt, I'm gonna fine-tune a coffee-table Baja journal I keep for the grandkids when they visit. Jake has a chapter to himself. I looked forward to seeing your classic brother for so many decades. A friend well met. RIP old gringo.
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Originally posted by vandenberg Roger where are you We're waiting.

HEY, BACK NOW, ED...been busy....

"GETTING OUR KICKS..ON ROUTE 66!"

The Road To Baja.

Ah...out of the depths at last! After a sheer ascent up the south rim from the Colorado River far below.. .. we made our goodbyes to spectacular Grand Canyon.

..and turn our attention to the Road to San Diego across Arizona and Southern California.

But...What route?..and what will be our ETA?

With all the forks in the road on this historical-minded expedition, route choices require deep thought and shrewd comtemplation. "Never rush in when you can crawl" serves for our travel motto. Therefore and thereof, while performing a ritual Cold Case Pacifico ceremony, which we adopted at Four Corners while marrooned overnight with Navajo spirits....we got down to discussing just how quick and direct a trail to follow..or should we just BLAZE a new one? We sacrificed many Pacificos and discussed the topic at lenthg...many, many sacrifices..into a beautiful sunset..and.late into the night.. which always follows a sunset...late, late into...the night.

The night resembled nothing so much as the nose of a giant Labrador in excellent health: cold, black, and wet.


and then towards dawn. Still perusing that question.."Which route to take?"

Sucking down the last of her ballena, and looking me square in the knee, my co-pilot murmured, "ASK THOSE COWS OUT THERE...hic.."

I levered my eyelids open enough to see what she was talking about..."What cows??"

"Oh..THOSE. Uh. sweetie..those are Longhorns..and they ain't cows."
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But hey, just to humor my co-pilot I asked them.."Okay then, you longhorned vacas.. which way to San Diego?"
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I swear those cattle had a slight Texas drawl as they said in unison, "If you just want to get to California, take the Interstate Freeways; if you want to get to the heart of the American century, take Route 66."


As soon as this sunk in, I stopped and stood staring in awe at those ganado for a few moments. Then, carefully stepping over my co-pilot to get to the last iced Pacifico, I thought, "What a great idea. Damned if they're not right! I would've never thought of that!"

Co-pilot snickered into the dust from ground level..."You could have just Googled it, too. Cows don't know everything."

sigh..."U. S. Highway "Route" 66 was commissioned in 1926, the year U. S. numbered highways came into existence. It consisted of a 'collection" of two-lane concrete or asphalt paved roads extending from Chicago to Santa Monica, running through the states of Illinois, Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, and California. Route 66 is considered the "Mother Road" of American highways. The old "Main Street of America" was deactivated in 1984 and the U. S. 66 highway shields taken down, after being replaced by the modern interstate highway system."
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Later that day...in our high desert camp.
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I heard a hoarse mumble from below, "We're burning daylight, Pilgrim."



Okay, up and at 'em..no time to be laying about.

I broke camp at dawn. Then got up to make some coffee and greet the day while the co-pilot checks the day's provision supply.

(Breaking camp is an old cowboy expression for making wind.)
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"What's this..ugh.. Bud Lite doing in here..yucko."
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After readying the day's trek supplies, I send my trusty co-pilot up on the roof to deal with the pack rat who has taken up residence under the toilet vent. I was hit square on the noggin with a pine nut yesterday while calming reading Outdoor Life.
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She readily accomplished that mission with a solid 'bang', then energetically signals we are now ready to head out on the trail....that is, IF I am ready?
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I hate people who never get hangovers....

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TRAIL GRUB.


She says, "You saddle up while I get some sandwiches for the Road."
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"She walked toward him, her dress billowing in the wind -not a calm and predictable billows like the sea, but more like the billowing of a mildewed shower curtain in a cheap motel where one has to dance around to avoid touching it while trying to rinse off soap."
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Okay..here we go.

Get Your Kicks..On Route 66!
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TO BE CONTINUED ON ANOTHER THREAD.

- GETTING OUR KICKS ON ROUTE 66.-

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[Edited on 10-28-2009 by Pompano]