BajaNomad

trip report BOLA and Vizcaino Peninsula

Humboldt Chris and Robin - 11-6-2009 at 10:32 AM

Here is our recent trip report for our first retirement trip (and first trip to Baja not restricted to my winter break in January)!

It takes two full days to get to the border from Humboldt County in our pop-up camper, so we camped in Anza-Borrego and crossed at Mexicali in the morning of Oct. 23. Got our visas and headed to Puertecitos for the night, camped at Playa Destiny. Headed south to Gonzaga Bay on the new super highway until the construction zone about 10-12 miles along the way. Followed their haul roads which is on and off the old road until the construction ends along the stretch of road at Ensenada Miramar. They are well along the way through all the rocky grades and passes until that first long beach stretch and are constructing the road bed along it as well. The road goes to washboard hell after that, pretty much all the way to Papa Fernandez cut-off. Army checkpoint was there, joked with the two bored and lonely soldiers, and got to Campo Beluga and spent the night.

Next day, off the Coco's Corner where Coco is looking good zipping around on his quad. Several people there working on his place. Chatted for a few minutes and then off to Bahia de Los Angeles and Campo Archelon for a couple days. Beautiful weather and swimmable water and lots of little Bay Bass. Very few travelers around. Had to spend a third night as someone whacked a power pole and the two Pemex stations were out of commission!

Headed for San Francisquita. The road is about the same as last January, some washboard and some slow spots over the pass past San Rafael. Caught some bay bass at San Rafael, but the wind had come up so continued to San Francisquita and camped under one of their rebuilt palapas on the beach.

Headed out to El Arco (the army checkpoint at the big road junction was abandoned). Cuesta de la Ley was pretty bad but passable, the rest of the road was the usual washboard. Went to Highway 1 on the main raod and cut back to Vizcaino for our first trip to the Vizcaino Peninsula.

The road to Bahia Asuncion is paved until the last 6-7 miles, which was truly some of the worst washboard I have ever beat my vehicle up on! Stayed the night at Sherry's campground, ate at Juanita's Kitchen and had a great night. Paul (the prosthetics guy) was there so we met him. The next day we took the Asuncion to San Jose del Castro road which was newly graded for the first few miles before we came to the grader with a flat tire. The rest of the road was awful and required 4 WD around a chalk bluff that looked to be 3 feet deep in powder. Arrived at the junction with the main road to Bahia Tortugas, pavement begins within a couple miles all the way to Tortugas. Camped at Playa Chester around the corner from Punta Eugenia on a point above some coves. Watched the lobster fisherman running traps, beautiful views of the islands, and a great night with mild wind in what looks like one of the windiest places on earth!

The next day we ate at the Jiminez' little restaurant along the waterfront in Bahia Tortugas, and headed back down the peninsula, cutting off the main road and going to Puerto Nuevo and San Cristobal where we camped on the bluffs about five miles south of San Cristobal. Visited with the coastal watchman for awhile, got in a low tide beach walk, and had a beautiful Baja sunset in really hot weather! The next day. luckily the watchman was still around, as we headed south on the road that takes you back to the Asuncion-San Jose del Castro road, and it has a locked gate on it that the watchman let us through. If you tried that road from the other direction, you would be stopped well away from the coast!

Headed back home, stopping at the whale watching campground at Ojo de Liebre (no one else there at this time of the year), then off to San Quintin and stayed at Don Eddy's where he has invested a lot in camping spots. Had our last fish dinner pig out at his restaurant, visiting with Howard and Tricia on their way to Los Barriles.

Next day we started the long slog home, cutting off at Ensanada and headed to Tecate. The new road is almost to Guadalupe, where we had our last carne asada tacos at the little stand there. Easy, swift, and very friendly crossing at Tecate - they always send us to secondary, but it was fast and the agents were really nice. Two days later we got back to Arcata and the rain!

This was our first trip out the Vizcaino Peninsula, and it was beautiful. However, beach access is limited due to the cliffs. Wish I had had a kayak or something because I suspect the fishing is awesome. The lobster and abalone coops watch the beach carefully and all the people we met were very friendly.

I was really impressed with he work that Don eddy has done in San Quintin to set up some secure and clean camping. He was lamenting the state of the economy, as so many we met in Baja did, and it is important that we patronize our favorite camping spots and restaurants so they can be there the next time!

What a great trip! This was our first trip outside of December and January (which we have done many times) and I loved the heat and warm water!!!

David K - 11-6-2009 at 10:40 AM

Good trip report... So Coco has a quad now? Thanks!

bajamedic - 11-6-2009 at 11:11 AM

Where are the photos? JH

Humboldt Chris and Robin - 11-6-2009 at 11:13 AM

they are on their way! Still in shock with rain, cold, and fish taco withdrawals!

Paulina - 11-6-2009 at 07:06 PM

Great report, thank you. Can't wait for the photos!

woody with a view - 11-6-2009 at 07:09 PM

you say tomato, i say the dirt stretch into Asuncion was REALLY smoove. there was some washboard, but if you wanna really experience washboard, try the upper north road into san juanico.

:light:

vgabndo - 11-6-2009 at 08:14 PM

Or the 62 clicks in from the highway west to La Purisima Woody.

A year ago I measured sandy WB's at Bahia Asuncion, and every third crest was five feet apart. My problem, coming and going was that I had blown a left front shock. It is awesome to contemplate the forces involved when that 16" wheel and tire are going from up and down stop to stop in an ear-splitting occillation that can only be stopped by slamming on the brakes! Sheeeez I love Baja. :bounce:

Oops, sorry...Thanks Chris and Robin for a good report. I've been really curious about BA to Tortugas. I should have a big 4 wheeler moto for January's trip. I've flown it on Google Earth, but it is good to get your take on it. What was your driving time from BA to (say) first accomidations?

[Edited on 11-7-2009 by vgabndo]

24baja - 11-7-2009 at 01:39 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by Humboldt Chris and Robin
they are on their way! Still in shock with rain, cold, and fish taco withdrawals!


Gosh I know the feeling, snow level in Grants Pass is to be 3000' tomorrow....BRRRRRR!

Don Eddys?

skydiveblake - 11-8-2009 at 08:23 AM

Where is Don Eddy's at?

arbee - 11-8-2009 at 08:26 AM

Next to The Old Mill in San Quintin.

DianaT - 11-8-2009 at 08:36 AM

Really nice trip report.

Those last 8 miles in Bahia Asuncion change----great when graded and can deteriorate quickly----just a matter of luck as to when the grader has been there.

The survey stakes were there a couple of weeks ago when we left, so it looks like work will be soon on the last 8. Now, if they would just repair the first part of the road and the road out from Vizcaino. :biggrin:

It has been a couple of years since we took the road from BA to San Jose Castro. At that time, we never needed to use the 4WD---again, it changes. Just be sure not to drive it on a Sunday afternoon after a baseball game between Bahia Asuncion and Tortugas----made that mistake once as that is also the road to the dump----lots of wild and crazy driving going on.

I do not remember exact times, but when we went, we stopped at San Pablo as the gate was opened, went on the Tortugas, had lunch, took the other way back to BA the same day.

Sounds like you had a great trip.

Diane