BajaNomad

Village Sounds

Osprey - 12-28-2009 at 03:12 PM

The Venerable Village


Mexico’s woes are finally revealing themselves in my little village. The problems are deep and dark and insidious – the pueblo is quiet, not peaceful quiet, dead quiet, sick, still, hurting quiet.

The stillness is accentuated by the winter wind and waves, the nocturnal business of the shrimp trawlers. Cold wet air from the north buffers and softens, mixes somehow the shushing of the waves and the drone of the big diesels on the camaroneros. I suppose all my neighbors near the shore finally drop off to sleep to the strange lulling of this seasonal white noise.

Cows and horses still move about the village in the darkness; great silent hulks set the dogs to barking until the small groups have moved to the next dirt street to prune almost anything alive and supple that hangs down or climbs a wall.

Not many car sounds after sunset – even the teens and young Mexicans with cars and quads are sitting tight, broke or saving gas money for work or travel. More T.V. sounds, a few radios, some kids still playing after dinner. The internado and all the schools are closed for the holidays – the beach is deserted, the cancha is dead and dark and cold.

If the village itself could complain, make a sound to tell us where it hurts, I don’t believe we would hear a scream or a whimper; like the people it protects and nourishes, it would make a sigh.

A sound not of defeat or desperation but of stubborn resolution.

Iflyfish - 12-28-2009 at 03:37 PM

I can feel the heavy stillness about. Well said. Well read.

Iflyfish

tripledigitken - 12-28-2009 at 03:42 PM

What are the deep, dark and insidious problems invading your little village? Can you add another chapter?

Ken

Osprey - 12-28-2009 at 03:50 PM

The Mexican trifecta, worldwide ecomomic turmoil and malaise, swine flu and travelers fears caused by outrageous wanton and senseless bloodshed in the drug trade has crippled the whole country but lack of tourism trickles down to hurt everyone.

When the muse visits all I can do is write another piece as counterpoint -- to let you hear the horns and bells and laughter that rang out before this sad silence.

tripledigitken - 12-28-2009 at 04:15 PM

The lack of tourist dollars is dramatically affecting life in baja from my observations. It will be a slow road back to the days of a few years ago. Even with an improving economy, just as you mention, the cartel wars hinder the tourist trade.

As much as I hate to admit it. I ponder just how much more of the violence do I turn my back on. Our love of Baja is strong and to this point stronger than any fear caused by the violence along the Frontera.

Best wishes for the joyful sounds returning to you little bit of paradise.

Ken

Osprey - 12-28-2009 at 04:27 PM

Thank you for that. The little kids I see playing in the dirt today will one day scrape by as caddys and greenskeepers instead of working with a bait net or throwing chum from the sterns of bigger, faster cruisers. I'll be gone, they will endure.

fixtrauma - 12-28-2009 at 08:52 PM

Even though this description has been used in much less appropriate times, what a "wordsmith".

Osprey, you put words together is ways that I can only dream about. As I read I was drawn deeper into not only the statement you were making but the feeling the taste the smell. All my senses were beguiled by your dexterous and masterful use of words.

It was like after I finished Pillars of the Earth by Ken Follett that I felt like I was there! I truly witnessed what you had written.

Udo - 12-28-2009 at 08:57 PM

Sounds like the village Osprey is speaking about is Puert Nuevo, however, his descriptive mode could describe almost anywhere in Mexico.

Mexicorn - 12-28-2009 at 09:20 PM

The beach just north of Punta Piedra was beautiful at sunset. Deserted, wind swept waves and a lone horseman tending to his small heard waiting for the touristas that never came.

Pescador - 12-29-2009 at 07:56 AM

It is interesting to ponder how the Gods can turn their backs in so many ways. No tourists, building at a standstill, nobody buying the few trinkets and goods normally sold, Tamales stand in the pot until they are mush, the squid have not shown this year at all and the plants sit empty, Christmas was a little less festive and reserved, but hey, at least they have nationalized health care.

arrowhead - 12-29-2009 at 02:54 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Don Jorge
Ni modo. Si Dios quiere a rato se cambia el viento. No te preocupes.


¿Y qué tiene dios a hacer con este asunto? Son pecados de seres humanos. ¿Es usted fatalista?

Osprey - 12-29-2009 at 03:05 PM

I toyed with ending the little piece with the word resignation rather than resolution. I see Mexican society as fatalistic myself but there are enough Jeremiahs on this board already so I stayed with a word that paints them proud somehow in the stubborness that has got them here all the way from troubles we cannot conceive with the Olmecs and others.

[Edited on 12-29-2009 by Osprey]