BajaNomad - Any papaya growers out there?

Any papaya growers out there?

Cardon Man - 1-11-2010 at 12:39 PM

I was wondering if any of the Baja gardeners out there have grown papaya? We have a tree that sprouted from seed washed down the drain and into the garden. It has a number of nice looking fruits but they seem to be taking forever to ripen past the green stage. How long should it take to get a ripe fruit? Any tips on ripening?

toneart - 1-11-2010 at 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Cardon Man
I was wondering if any of the Baja gardeners out there have grown papaya? We have a tree that sprouted from seed washed down the drain and into the garden. It has a number of nice looking fruits but they seem to be taking forever to ripen past the green stage. How long should it take to get a ripe fruit? Any tips on ripening?

Where are you in Baja? I don't grow Papaya, but do have Mango and Banana trees on my property in Mulege. At this time of year they haven't even flowered yet. They get little buds in February, but don't ripen until July or August. As I am not usually there at that time, we give the locals permission to go get them when we are not there.

The reason I am giving this information is because I am thinking that tropical fruit trees would have the same ripening seasons; when it is HOT!

capt. mike - 1-11-2010 at 03:20 PM

oh.....i misread this... i thought it was Peyote growers. :lol:

bkbend - 1-11-2010 at 06:51 PM

So, you had lots of peyote growing advise to share???

Mexitron - 1-11-2010 at 07:41 PM

My recollection about papayas is that they have an 18 month fruiting cycle from seedlings--that is, if you will need a second growing seaon before you get fruit....so maybe your plant is stuck in the wintertime between cycles. I've got some little plants that sprouted in our yard in Texas (they LOVE the brutal tropical summers here)--I dug them out and put them in pots in our greenhouse to overwinter and then I'll plant them out in May or so...by the end of this next hot season they should have some fruit.

From the California Rare Fruit Growers:

David K - 1-11-2010 at 08:51 PM

PAPAYA

Carica papaya L.
Caricaceae
Common Names: Papaya, Papaw or Paw Paw (Australia), Mamao (Brazil), Tree Melon.
Related Species: Babaco (Carica pentagona), Mountain Papaya (C. pubescens), Chamburo (C. stipulata).

Origin: The papaya is believed to be native to southern Mexico and neighboring Central America. It is now present in every tropical and subtropical country.

Adaptation: Papayas have exacting climate requirements for vigorous growth and fruit production. They must have warmth throughout the year and will be damaged by light frosts. Brief exposure to 32° F is damaging and prolonged cold without overhead sprinkling will kill the plants. Cold, wet soil is almost always lethal. Cool temperatures will also alter fruit flavor. Papayas make excellent container and greenhouse specimens where soil moisture and temperature can be moderated.

DESCRIPTION
Growth Habit: The papaya is a short-lived, fast-growing, woody, large herb to 10 or 12 feet in height. It generally branches only when injured. All parts contain latex. The hollow green or deep purple trunk is straight and cylindrical with prominent leaf scars. Its diameter may be from 2 or 3 inches to over a foot at the base.
Foliage: The leaves emerge directly from the upper part of the stem in a spiral on nearly horizontal petioles 1 to 3-1/2 feet long. The blade, deeply divided into 5 to 9 main segments, varies from 1 to 2 feet in width, and has prominent yellowish ribs and veins. The life of a leaf is 4 to 6 months.

Flowers: The five-petalled flowers are fleshy, waxy and slightly fragrant. Some plants bear only short-stalked female flowers, or bisexual (perfect) flowers also on short stalks, while others may bear only male flowers, clustered on panicles 5 or 6 feet long. Some plants may have both male and female flowers. Others at certain seasons produce short-stalked male flowers, at other times perfect flowers. This change of sex may occur temporarily during high temperatures in midsummer. Male or bisexual plants may change completely to female plants after being beheaded. Certain varieties have a propensity for producing certain types of flowers. For example, the Solo variety has flowers of both sexes 66% of the time, so two out of three plants will produce fruit, even if planted singly. How pollination takes place in papayas is not known with certainty. Wind is probably the main agent, as the pollen is light and abundant, but thrips and moths may assist. Hand pollination is sometimes necessary to get a proper fruit set.

Fruit: There are two types of papayas, Hawaiian and Mexican. The Hawaiian varieties are the papayas commonly found in supermarkets. These pear-shaped fruit generally weigh about 1 pound and have yellow skin when ripe. The flesh is bright orange or pinkish, depending on variety, with small black seeds clustered in the center. Hawaiian papayas are easier to harvest because the plants seldom grow taller than 8 feet. Mexican papayas are much larger the the Hawaiian types and may weigh up to 10 pounds and be more than 15 inches long. The flesh may be yellow, orange or pink. The flavor is less intense than that the Hawaiian papaya but still is delicious and extremely enjoyable. They are slightly easier to grow than Hawaiian papayas. A properly ripened papaya is juicy, sweetish and somewhat like a cantaloupe in flavor, although musky in some types. The fruit (and leaves) contain papain which helps digestion and is used to tenderize meat. The edible seeds have a spicy flavor somewhat reminiscent of black pepper.

CULTURE
Location: Papayas like to be warm with both sunshine and reflected heat, so the hottest place against the house where nothing else seems happy is an ideal location. They also like to be as free from wind as possible, although this is not as critical as their need for sun. Papayas can be grown successfully in shade, but the fruit is rarely sweet. They are best planted in mounds or against the foundation of a building where water can be controlled.
Soils: Papayas need a light, well-drained soil. They are easily killed by excess moisture. The soil needs to be moist in hot weather and dry in cold weather. Since this is the opposite of California's rain pattern, in addition to good drainage, plastic coverings to prevent over-wetting in winter may also be worthwhile. Papayas do not tolerate salty water or soil.

Irrigation: Watering is the most critical aspect in raising papayas. The plants should be kept on to the dry side to avoid root rot, but also need enough water to support their large leaves. In winter the plant prefers to remain as dry as possible. A plant that has been injured by frost is particularly susceptible to root rot.

Fertilization: The fast-growing papaya requires regular applications of nitrogen fertilizers but the exact rates have not been established. Feed monthly and adjust according to the plant's response. They can take fairly hot organic fertilizing such as chicken manure if used with deep irrigation after warm weather has started. Phosphorus deficiency casuses dark green foliage with a reddish-purple discoloration of leaf veins and stalks.

Pruning: Papayas do not need to be pruned, but some growers pinch the seedlings or cut back established plants to encourage multiple trunks.

Frost Protection: Papayas need warmth and a frost-free environment, but can often withstand light freezes with some kind of overhead protection. This can be provided by building a frame around the plants and covering it with bedding, plastic sheeting, etc. when frost threatens. Electric light bulbs can also be used for added warmth. Potted specimens can be moved to a frost-secure area. Prolonged cold, even if it does not freeze, may adversely affect the plants and the fruit. Mexican papayas are more hardy than Hawaiian varieties.

Propagation: Papayas are normally propagated by seed. To start a plant, extract the seeds from ripe papayas and wash them to remove the gelatinous covering. They are then dried, dusted with a fungicide and planted as soon as possible (the seeds loose their viability rapidly in storage). Plant the seeds in warm (80° F), sterile potting mix. Seeds should be planted in sterile soil as young papaya seedlings have a high mortality rate from damping off. Potting soil can be sterilized by mixing 50-50 with vermiculite and placing in an oven at 200° F for one hour. Under ideal conditions the seeds may germinate in about two weeks, but may take three to five weeks. Gibberellic acid can be used to speed up germination in some seasons. Seedlings usually begin flowering 9 - 12 months after they germinate.

Seedling papayas do not transplant well. Plant them in large containers so the seedlings will have to be transplanted only once, when they go into the ground. Transplant carefully, making sure not to damage the root ball. To prevent damping off, drench the potting mix with a fungicide containing benomyl or captan. Set the plants a little high to allow for settling. A plastic mulch will help keep the soil warm and dry in wet winter areas, but remove it as soon as the weather becomes warm. Plant at least three or four plants to insure yourself of having females or plant hermaphroditic plants.

Papaya plants can also be grown from cuttings, which should be hardened off for a few days and then propped up with the tip touching moist, fertile soil until roots form. Semihardwood cuttings planted during the summer root rapidly and should fruit the following year.

Pests and diseases: Thrips, mites and white flies as well as In red spider and fruit spotting bugs are potential problems in some areas. The plants may also be attacked by mildew, anthracnose, root rot and various virus diseases Fruit flies often ruin the fruit in Florida and Hawaii. Nematodes can attack the roots and are often a factor in the decline of individual plant. Gopher damage can be avoided by planting in wire baskets. Papaya plants should probably be replaced every 4 years or so.

Harvest: Papayas are ready to harvest when most of the skin is yellow-green. After several days of ripening at room temperature, they will be almost fully yellow and slightly soft to the touch. Dark green fruit will not ripen properly off the tree, even though it may turn yellow on the outside. Mature fruit can be stored at 45° F for about 3 weeks. Papayas are often sliced and eaten by themselves or served with a myriad of other foods. They can also be cooked to make chutney or various desserts. Green papayas should not be eaten raw because of the latex they contain, although they are frequently boiled and eaten as a vegetable. In the West Indies, young leaves are cooked and eaten like spinach. In India, seeds are sometimes used as an adulterant in whole black pepper.

CULTIVARS
Kamiya
A selection from Waimanalo. Solo type. Small to medium-sized fruit. Distinct, blocky shape, very short neck. Deep yellow-orange skin and flesh, firm, juicy, very sweet. Dwarf, high-yielding plant. Fairly recent release from the University of Hawaii.
Mexican Red
A rose-fleshed papaya that is lighter in flavor than Mexican Yellow. Medium to very large fruit. Generally not as sweet as Hawaiian types
Mexican Yellow
A very sweet and flavorful, yellow-fleshed papaya. Medium to large fruit, can grow up to 10 pounds. Generally not as sweet as Hawaiian types.
Solo
Fruit round and shallowly furrowed in female plants, pear-shaped in bisexual plants. Weight 1.1 to 2.2 pounds. Skin smooth, flesh firm, reddish-orange, very sweet, of excellent quality. Produces no male plants, only bisexual and female in a 2 to 1 ratio. Introduced into Hawaii from Barbados in 1911. Named Solo in 1919.
Sunrise (Sunrise Solo)
Pear-shaped fruit with a slight neck. Averages 22 to 26 ounces depending on location. Skin smooth, flesh firm, reddish-orange, sweet, sugar content high. Quality similar to Solo. Seed cavity not as deeply indented as other Solo strains, making seed removal easier. Plant precocious, maturing fruit about 9 months after transplanting, at a height of about 3 feet.
Sunset (Sunset Solo)
Solo type. Small to medium-sized, pear-shaped fruit. Orange-red skin and flesh. Very sweet. Dwarf, high yielding plant. Originated at the University of Hawaii.
Vista Solo
Medium to large fruit depending on climate, 5 inches wide, up to 18 inches long. Skin yellow, flesh orange to yellow-orange. Hardy, compact Solo type producing high quality fruit. Needs fairly hot weather to develop sweetness. Self-fertile. Originated in Vista, Calif. by Ralph Corwin.
Waimanalo (Waimanalo Solo, X-77)
Fruit round with a short neck, average weight 16 to 39 ounces. Skin smooth, and glossy, cavity star-shaped. Flesh thick, firm, orange-yellow in color, flavor and quality high, keeps well. Recommended for fresh market and processing. Fruits of female plants rough in appearance. Average height to the first flower is 32 inches.
FURTHER READING
Maxwell, Lewis S. and Betty M. Maxwell. Florida Fruit. Lewis S. Maxwell, Publisher. 1984. pp. 21..
Morton, Julia F. Fruits of Warm Climates. Creative Resources Systems, Inc. 1987. pp. 336-346.
Ortho Books. All About Citrus and Subtropical Fruits. Chevron Chemical Co. 1985. pp. 64-66.
Popenoe, Wilson. Manual of Tropical and Subtropical Fruits. Hafner Press. 1974. Facsimile of the 1920 edition. pp. 225-240.
Samson, J. A. Tropical Fruits. 2nd ed. Longman Scientific and Technical. 1986. pp. 256-269.

Cardon Man - 1-12-2010 at 08:09 AM

Excellent info. Thanks all! I guess I'll just leave the fruit on the tree and see what happens. There are several other up and coming fruits as well. Let's see if they ripen in the chilly winter winds of Baja Sur.

no.

capt. mike - 1-12-2010 at 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by bkbend
So, you had lots of peyote growing advise to share???

advise. not qualified to.

advice. don't have any. except don't eat it unless you enjoy having :wow:

the worst stomach ache in your life!! :barf:

Cardon Man - 1-12-2010 at 09:38 AM

What happened after the stomach ache Capt. Mike? :cool:

capt. mike - 1-12-2010 at 12:12 PM

oh.....the guy went down the hole chasing a white rabbit....

actually had a friend in college stuff the "stuff" into his certain alternate cavity to obtain what he thot would be pain free absorption.

he got sick anyway but the other effects came thru too. he said never again.

another group (1970's NAU) boiled them down, extracted the remains and filtered then pulverized and capped.

no improvement - big time belly ache then Alice goes to Wonderland.....

you can't hardly gag those cactus buttons down - i have no idea how the aboriginal Indians figured them out centuries ago. no one could get that hungry. :light:

pacside - 1-12-2010 at 04:51 PM

Not a green thumb so can't answer your question but thought I'd share a story about papayas.

On recent trip to BCS our son couldn't eat enough papayas with lime juice.

Here in NCal he won't touch the papaya; says they are yucky and tastes totally different from the ones in Baja. I tasted them and well sure the ones in baja were better but the ones here tasted just fine. Go figure. Me thinks kid already has baja fever.

pacside

Jack Swords - 1-13-2010 at 07:10 AM

We grew lots of papayas (both Mexican and Hawaiian varieties) in Todos Santos back when Spanish was spoken there. One way to speed up the ripening process is to score the fruit with a knife many times, not too deeply, and it will turn yellow in a few days. Eaten with lime juice it is quite good. Fruits left on the plant until fully ripened are usually vulnerable to insects and so papayas are picked not fully ripe.

k-rico - 1-13-2010 at 07:44 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Jack Swords
We grew lots of papayas (both Mexican and Hawaiian varieties) in Todos Santos back when Spanish was spoken there.

in Todos Santos back when Spanish was spoken there

:lol:

laughed out loud.

I know what you mean.

shari - 1-13-2010 at 07:48 AM

gotta LOVE bajanomad for getting the lo down on just about anything :rolleyes:

great info...even the highjacked part...heee heee

one more thing...after the lime is squeezed onto the luscious papaya...drizzle a bit of that desert honey for a more sensous flavour!!!
(hmmmmm.....maybe this is why woody thinks I'm a sexy momma)

bajajudy - 1-13-2010 at 08:22 AM

We have several papayas. They have to be picked before they ripen or they will be eaten by the birds. When they start to turn yellow, pick them and allow them to ripen in the house turning them daily. While you are picking the yellow one, grab a green one for green papaya salad...yummy but you have to have Thai fish sauce to make it.

David K - 1-13-2010 at 09:21 AM

Papaya trees are easy and fun to grow from seed... I did many in my greenhouse years ago. The seeds germinate in 1-2 weeks. Seeds will produce male, female and hermaphrodite trees. The Hawaiian papaya we buy in the markets are the 'solo' variety, so named as they are from the hermaphradite trees. Other varieties of papaya will come from female trees, as long as there is one 'stud' male tree nearby to pollinate from.

Female and hermaphrodite flowers are next to the trunk of the tree... male flowers are smaller and are at the ends of stems, away from the trunk..., How to know the sex of the tree you grew! The tree can grow to flowering size in a year (ideal tropical conditions).

HOW?: Spoon out the seeds onto paper towel (doubled) and cover with paper towel (doubled) and with your palms roll back and forth to break off the jelly-like coating on each seed.

Allow seeds to dry... then plant in potting soil filled trays. Be sure the seeds are no more than twice the seed diameter deep (like 1/4 inch). Keep soil damp, but not soggy in a warm area (not in direct sunlight).

Once a few inches tall, transplant into soil filled styrofoam coffee cups (with drain holes in the bottom... or larger pots) and move up the pot size as the tree grows until it is safe to plant outdoors (in a warm, frost-free, well drained location).

[Edited on 1-13-2010 by David K]